« PoprzedniaDalej »
that such a wilderness of deadly instruments should ever be used by man against his fellow! Not feeling half a crown's worth of curiosity to see the crown itself, I departed by the Traitor's Gate,' thinking of the tragedies which had been acted within those once dreaded portals.
The apartment at present occupied by the House of Commons is arranged much like Mrs. Willard's schoolroom, and is quite as plain, only on a little larger scale. The house was in committee' on the bill for the commutation of tithes. Lord John Russell, Sir Robert Peel, Lord Howick, (a very 'smart' young man,) and two or three others, spoke on the question. I was struck with their singularly calm and unpretending manner of speaking. It seemed more like a familiar drawing-room conversation, than the stormy debate which might be expected on such a question, which, as was remarked, was a very important one. Lord John, in particular, who has been the leader of the house, and long conspicuous in the political world, is as plain, straight-forward a man as one could wish to see. It would seem impossible to get him excited or violent in debate. Every speaker was listened to civilly, if not attentively, and the only interruption, or rather cheering, was the cry of Hear! hear!' which was often heard from twenty voices at once; and occasionally there was a hearty laugh. The gallery over the speaker's chair is filled with reporters for the different papers, who will take down a long speech in short hand, at twelve o'clock at night, and the next morning at daylight you will see it in print. The houses of parliament are opposite
London: House of Commons-St. Paul's. 95
Westminster Abbey, and the new buildings are to be erected on the old site. The ruins of the old houses are adjoining the halls now temporarily occupied.
St. Pauls-Rev. T. Hartwell Horne--Westminster Abbey.
SUNDAY, APRIL 16.-I have attended church for the first time in London at ST. PAUL'S. You are aware that this vast and magnificent edifice stands in the very heart of London-in the midst of the most crowded and busy portion of this busy city. What a pity that it should be thus obscured and smoked too, as black as a stove pipe. I entered cautiously, with my hand in my pocket, expecting some civil, obliging person would tip his beaver, as usual, for a shilling: but, strange to say, I was suffered to pass unmolested. The greater part of the interior is one vast open space, extending into the four wings, and up to the very highest dome. As you stand in the centre and look up to the windows of the topmost cupola, it seems almost like looking into heaven. You see a truly grand and noble triumph of man's ingenuity and perseverance. The immensity of the structure is wonderful; but you must look again and again before it can be fully comprehended. On the walls, and in the niches and corners, are groups of statuary and monuments, some exceedingly beautiful, and
most of them to military and naval personages. Public worship is held only in a chapel in one of the wings, forming a mere item of the whole structure. I was guided to it by the sound of the organ, echoing back from the vast arches, and impressively grand in its effect. Men in robes, with poles, stood at the door beadles,' I believe they are called. The chapel is of much the same size and style as those at Oxford, and there were not more than one hundred persons in it-the larger part of them apparently strangers, attracted merely from curiosity, like myself. In fact, as I afterward learned, there are few or no regular attendants in this far-famed St. Paul's. Why, I cannot imagine. The chanting was done by boys. The preacher was a short, thick man, and read his sermon off like a book.' It became so dark-being a rainy day-that he could not see to read, and he had to stop once or twice. Poor man! But they say the officiates here are unbeneficed gownsmen, and perhaps they cannot afford to study. His sermon was dull and common-place, but delivered in a pompous, affected style, as if to pass it off for genuine eloquence.
Dined with Rev. T. HARTWELL HORNE-a name well known throughout the theological world. This extraordinary man was a bookseller's clerk, at a small salary. He distinguished himself by his industry, won the notice of a reverend Bishop, and was employed to make some indexes to a large work, which were done so well, that he was handsomely paid, and went to Cambridge and completed his education with the fruits of his labors. His celebrated 'Introduction to the Study of the Scriptures,' in four large
London: Rev. T. H. Horne.
volumes, was the work of twenty years, and was all done in the night, after the business of the day was over. It is acknowledged to be the most accurate, comprehensive, and valuable work of the kind in the language. Fifteen thou. sand copies have been sold in England, and as many more in the United States, and yet the three first editions scarcely cleared expenses: the third produced him about one hun dred and fifty pounds for the labor of twenty years! Mr. Horne is now engaged at the British Museum in preparing a catalogue of that immense collection. He is a living monument of industry and perseverance. He is rather small in stature, remarkably neat in his personal appearance, and quite active and robust, though now somewhat advanced, and gray-headed. His manner is free, cordial, and busi ness-like. The moment he speaks, you are at once relieved of all embarrassment, and feel that you are talking to a friend-a plain, kind-hearted, unassuming friend. His wife and daughter are just like him. They spoke of the many Americans who had called on them-Bishops Chase, M’Il. vaine, and Hobart, Dr. Wheaton, E. D. Griffin, Dr. Jarvis, and Rev. Mr. Potter, formerly of Boston.
* * *
was pleased to find many American books in the library, and seated myself there with Mr. H. after dinner, while he wrote his sermon for the same afternoon. He completed it in about an hour, besides talking to me the while and a good little sermon it was too, for I went with them to hear it. * The clerk drawled out the service in a monotonous and pompous tone, which was really ludicrous.
There was also a curate to read prayers, beside Mr. Horne. It seems, that in England each church must have a rector, curate, and clerk. Mr. Horne's manner in the pulpit is meek, persuasive, and engaging. He uses the best words, and no more than are necessary. Yet he would never be called a great preacher. His talents are more useful than showy.
Thursday. Having an hour or two of leisure, after running about town for a week on business matters, I took a stroll into St. James's Park. through Waterloo-Place, where is a big monument to somebody, but it was so high I could not tell who. Walked through the park by the pond to the old Palace, where the king was holding a levee. As I had no court dress, and no introduction, I concluded to defer paying my respects to his majesty, and turned off to Westminster Abbey.
Every thing of this kind must and will far exceed the expectations of the uninitiated. I gazed with as much wonder on the gigantic and venerable pile, as if I had never heard of it before. The natural feeling of awe with which one is impressed on approaching the entrance, is not much increased, however, when he sees the sign over the door, • Admittance three-pence.' John Bull must have his fees, it seems, for every thing, and does not scruple to fill his pockets by exhibiting the sepulchres of the mighty dead. I thought of the man who was awakened from his solemn re. verie after public worship in the Abbey, by the beadle's