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London: Westminster Abbey.
'Sarvice is done-it's two-pence now
I entered by the Poet's Corner, of which you have read too many descriptions to need one from me. Having 'done' the poets, I paid an additional shilling to proceed, and was then at liberty to go where I pleased; and it is no very short walk, that one may take through those long, lofty arches and chapels. Monuments of all sorts, and to all sorts, are as thick as blackberries, in every part of the edi. fice. Many of them comprise three or four emblematic figures in a group-some most exquisitely designed and chiseled. I saw so many to admire, that I can scarcely remember one. There are little inclosures against the walls of the Abbey, filled with tombs and monuments, principally of kings, queens, and knights of old. It was curious indeed to see those effigies of warriors in complete armor, cut in stone or wrought in iron, laid out on the tombs, as if they were the very bodies of the renowned heroes of chivalry, preserved there to frighten or enlighten their d generate descendants. Many of these sepulchres are four, five, and six centuries old. That of Mary Queen of Scots is beautiful. There is a counterfeit presentment of her in marble upon it, and you can easily imagine you are seeing the lovely and ill-fated queen herself, as she appeared in her death-robes. The haughty Elizabeth sleeps in an adjoining apartment. I noticed, also, monuments and sculptures of the two princes murdered in the Tower by the bloody Richard, of Henry Eighth, and indeed of all the kings and queens since Ed
ward First. The monuments to public individuals, and those who have distinguished themselves, are in the more open part of the Abbey. Folios and quartos in abundance have been filled with their history and illustration; and to these I must refer you for farther particulars.'
Zoological Gardens—Parks—West End Military Review at Woolwich-Thames Tunnel-English Country Fair at Greenwich-General glance at the Great Metropolis.
Friday.-To-day I procured a nice little saddle-horse, and took a ride round the parks-going up the gay and splendid Regent-street and Portland Place, by the Colosseum, the Crescent, and the range of terraces,' fronting Regent's Park. I stopped at the Zoological Gardens, which cover several acres, and are admirably arranged. Besides the immense collection of plants and flowers of almost all species, fountains, etc., here are wild animals, quadrupeds, birds, and amphybiæ, of many species which have never been exhibited in our country, and you see them almost in their natural state; not chained up in cages and close rooms, but allowed free air and exercise. Bears were climbing poles; and scores of water-birds were revelling in the luxu ries of a pond. There are more than two hundred different
London: Zoological Gardens-Parks.
species of parrots, and all are together: what a 'clatter' they make 'to be sure!' But the chief lions' at present, are the beautiful Giraffes and their attending Arabs, recently arrived. Well, as I was saying, I made the circuit of Regent's Park, and then rode down to Hyde Park, which is smaller, but more frequented. Hyde Park Corner is famous all over the world. Nothing can exceed the gayety and splendor of the scene on a fine afternoon, at this sea son-the superb equipages of the great, with the gold-laced and crimson-velveted footmen-the ladies and gentlemen on horseback in another path, and the pedestrians in a third, --but all mingled in dashing confusion. I rode boldly in among the best of them, and had a fine chance to inspect the interior of the carriages, and the pretty faces of my lady this, and the dutchess of that-for many of these great ladies are really pretty-and with what exquisite neatness and elegance some of them dress! The ladies on horseback invariably wear men's hats-literally, and without the least alteration, except that a black veil is appended. This is the fashion at present. What a luxury these parks are, in such a city as this! To have a fine open space of three or four hundred acres, kept in the nicest order, with footpaths, and carriage-paths, groves and ponds, etc., surrounded by a collection of palaces! I can well believe Willis's remark, that the West End of London is unequalled in Eurobe. One of Miss Edgeworth's heroes rescued a child from drowning in the Serpentine river.' When I read it, the idea of a river, in what I imagined a little park, some
what larger than Washington square, seemed laughable enough; but this Serpentine river is in this park, and might drown the king, if he should fall into it. The Humane Society have a house and boats close by, to receive the luck. less wights who get drowned. There is good fishing in the river, and it looks fresh and clear, and it is delightful to ride along its banks on a warm day. These parks, especially Regent's, would make a large farm. They afford abundant room for an airy ride or walk without going out of the city. At Hyde Park Corner is Apsley House, the Duke of Wel. lington's residence, and close by is the colossal statue of Achilles, cast from carnon taken in the Duke's battles, and erected to commemorate them by his country women.'
Last Saturday I took it into my head to go to Woolwich, nine miles from London, to help the Prince of Orange review the troops. By dint of active exertion, I attained a seat on the deck of a bit of a steam-boat, loaded with two hundred and fifty pleasure-seeking mortals like myself, while as many more were left disconsolate on the wharf-inad. missible. Off we went with the tide, under Westminster, Waterloo, Blackfriars, Southwark, and London Bridges, over Thames Tunnel, and between a multitude of ships and steam-boats, large boats and small boats, rowed perhaps by a Jacob Faithful, or his posterity, and following the serpentine course of Old Father Thames' through a beautiful green meadow, passed Greenwich, and arrived at our ulti matum in good time to see the show. The prince was dressed as a general, decorated with half a dozen badges
Greenwich Fair-Thames Tunnel.
of different orders; and he galloped about the field in true military style, accompanied by his two sons, and a squadron of princes, dukes, lords, etc. They fired bombs, and had a grand imitation battle, with horse artillery-in other words, a sham fight, which was all vastly fine. Returning, I walked to Greenwich, three miles, where is the Observatory from which longitude is reckoned all over the world, as the school-girls are well aware. The Observatory is on a high, steep hill, in the centre of a large and beautiful park, filled with hills and dales, deer, trees, ponds, and every thing pretty. The prospect from the Observatory is superb. London on the left-St. Paul's and a few spires only peeping above the dun smoke-the Thames, winding about in a zigzag direction, covered with the 'freighted argosies' of all nations, some just arrived perhaps from the East Indies or the North Pole-others destined for Botany Bay or Nootka Sound; beyond, the green hills and meadows; and at your feet this lovely park, and the noble hospital for seamen, on the banks of the river. It is a scene for a painter.
To-day I have 'done' Thames Tunnel, and laughed at the humors of an English country fair, in the old fashioned style, at Greenwich. The Tunnel is just like the pictures of it. You have to descend as many steps to get to it as would take you to a church steeple. I walked to the end of this subterraneous cavern, where they were at work, under the very centre of the river. Ugh! Only to think of being at the mercy of those frail brick arches, under the very bed of a mighty river, on which the largest ships are