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seizes the ideas of others and returns / author of the “Thistoire de la Poésie change for them."
| Provençale," etc. ; aud with fidelity As a specimen of Madame Mohl's and care she fulfilled the trust – Jules style in English, which was said not to Mohl, who was also Fauriel's friend, equal her writing in French, we give generously aiding her in what was a one more quotatiou from “Madame labor of love. Recamier, and the History of Society Our last interview with her was early in France." In the latter part of this in 1870, when, being in Paris for a day work she traces the influence of the or two with my husband on our way to old ballads and Provençal traditions on Italy, we went to the Rue du Bac and chivalry in the eleventh century: - made an early call. Madame Mohl
received us in the traditional dressingThat these stories originated in real facts
gown and curl-papers, the latter of very belonging to these localities which the
varied and brilliant hues, being red, border ballads first commemorated, and by degrees altered, can scarcely be doubted.
green, and blue circulars utilized for ... We find to this day the Brèche de
this purpose. I imagined that she Roland made by the sword Durandal when
would make a little apology to my hus. the hero was dying ; the story was recorded band for appearing in this costume, as in one of the old ballads, and this trace he was a complete stranger to her ; but remains of it. It is equally impossible to she made no allusion to this, and was doubt from the quantity of Provençal ro- quite unconscious of there being anymances founded on Charlemagne's passage thing remarkable in her appearance, into Spain, that these traditions delighted she getting as usual to the kernel of the both poets and people long before chivalry subjects discussed. Her attractive was thought of ; but when the Provençal
niece, Miss Mohl, who afterwards bepoets and chivalry did appear, this became
came Madame Helmholtz, was with their heroic age; they looked back upon it as the Greeks must have looked upon the
her, busily engaged with her painting days of Orpheus and Theseus. Nor was
The use of the circulars as curl-papers their reverence for it such a mere matter of
was one of the small economies which fancy as might at first sight appear : for amused her friends, who knew of her out of these mysterious thickets of history frequent deeds of generosity and bea spirit came forth just as spontaneous and nevolence. For example, we read of fresh as a spring sparkling out of the Madame Mohl runuing about Paris one ground in some deep glen, and like the morning to induce buyers to go to the same little rill after murmuring a long time forced sale of a poor old friend's furin dark, solitary woods, it emerged into niture, she attending herself and exsight, became broader and deeper, and
pending nearly two thousand francs in poured down like a river, bringing to us the
buying out what would be most useful, majestic civilization that overspread the
and presenting the same to the poor country. How many curious and active spirits have endeavored to trace a river to
widow. its source; but can any stream, however
Would that we had preserved the beneficent, be compared to the poetry which quaint little notes that at long intervals was the source of our modern civilization, were received from her ! One only I whose infancy was concealed in these un-can find — undated as usual — written known regions of history? It cannot relate from the Deanery of Westminster in its own birth, nor how it was nourished ; June, 1871. It was in reply to an invibut when this young muse, all charming tation. She was unable to accept it with unconsciousness, began to speak, it definitely, and said: “If not, I shall was in a new tongue, so soft, so full of ten- certainly go some morning to see you." derness and grace, and the sentiments she
| But we were on the point of leaving expressed in this musical Provençal were
London, and saw her face no more. so refined and enchanting, that all around were enthralled.
More touching than her own death
bed, as recorded by the biographer, was As Miss Mary Clarke, she was the that of Jules Mohl, whose death took literary executor of M. Fauriel, the place several years before that of his
wife. When power of speech was lost politician, and hated the English viruto the dying man, and while struggling lently, telling me so with curious cirfor breath, his hand was put out to cumlocutions. He was of opinion, he stroke her poor face — a mute expres- said, that though the English were unsion of consciousness that she was by fortunately powerful on the sea, on his side.
land his nation was a match for us. To her his death was desolation. As for the English in Africa, he deFaithful friends rallied round her and clared the Portuguese able to sweep kept by her to the last, but the aged them into the sea. But though he woman was often found by them in hated the English, his admiration for floods of tears, and her only pleasure Queen Victoria was as unbounded as was in talking of “Mr. Mohl,” and in our own earth-hunger. She was, he bringing out editions of his transla- told me, entirely on the side of the tions from Persian and Chinese and Portuguese in the sad troubles which other works. Her own summons came English politicians were then causing. when she had attained the age of He detailed, as particularly as if he had ninety-two.
been present, a strange scene reported She used her gifts in brightening the to have taken place between Soveral, lives of others, and the memory of their ambassador, and Lord Salisbury, Mary Mohl will be cherished in many in which discussion grew heated. It hearts - as it is in ours.
seemed as if they would part in anger. At last Soveral arose and exclaimed with much dignity : “You must now
excuse me, my Lord Salisbury, I have From The Cornhill Magazine. to dine with the queen to-night.” My SOME PORTUGUESE SKETCHES. Lord Salisbury started, looked increduThe Portuguese are not wholly lous, and said coldly, “ You are playing offensive. In politics, or when they with me. This cannot be." "Inhunger after African territory we fancy deed,” said the ambassador, producing needed for our own people, they may a telegram from Windsor, “it is as I seem so. When a rebuff excites them say.” And then Salisbury turned pale, against the English, Lisbon may not be fell back in his chair, and gasped for pleasant for Englishmen. But in such breath. “And after that,” said my cases would London commend itself to informant, “things went well.” Sev. a triumphant foreigner? For my own eral people at the table listened to this part, I found a kind of gentle, unobtru- story and seemed to believe it. With sive politeness even among those Por- much difficulty I preserved a grave tuguese who knew I was English. countenance, and congratulated him Occasionally, on being taken for an on the possession of an ambassador American, I did not correct the mis- who was more than a match for our take, for having no quarrel with Amer- foreign minister. Before the end of icans they sometimes confided to me dinner he informed me that the Enthe bitterness of their hearts against glish were as a general rule savages, the English. I stayed in Lisbon at the while the Portuguese were civilized. Hotel Universal in the Rua Nova da Having lived in London he knew this Almeda, a purely Portuguese house to be so. Finding that he knew the where only stray Englishmen came. East End of our gigantic city, I found At the table d'hôte I one night had a it difficult to contradict him. conversation with a mild-mannered Certainly Lisbon, as far as visible Portuguese which showed the curious poverty is concerned, is far better than ignorance and almost childish vanity of London. I saw few very miserable the race. I asked him in French if he people'; beggars were not at all numerspoke English. Doing so badly we ous. In a week I was only asked twice mingled the two languages and at last for alms. One constantly hears that talked vivaciously. He was an ardent Lisbou is dirty, and as full of foul odors as Coleridge's Cologne. I did mighty parcels upon their heads; men not find it so, and the bright sunshine great baskets. Fish is carried in spreadand the fine color of the houses might ing flat baskets by girls. They look well compensate for some drawbacks. afar off like gigantic hats ; further The houses of this regular town are still, like quaint odd toadstools in mo. white, and pale yellow, and fine worn- tion. All household furniture removout pink, with narrow, green painted ing among the poor is done by hand. verandahs which soon lose crudeness Two or four men load up a kind of flat in the intense light. The windows of hand-barrow without wheels till it is the larger blocks are numerous and set pyramidal and colossal with piled gear. in long, regular lines; the streets if Then passing poles through the loop narrow run into open squares blazing of ropes, with a slow effort they raise with white, unsoiled monuments. All it up and advance at a funereal and day long the ways are full of people solemn pace. The slowness with which who are fairly but unostentatiously they move is pathetic. It is suggestive polite. They do not stare one out of of a dead burden or of some street countenance however one may be accident. But of these latter there dressed. In Antwerp a man who ob- must be very few; there is not much jects to being wondered at may not vehicular traffic in Lisbon. It is comwear a light suit. Lisbon is more cos- paratively rare to see anything like mopolitan. But the beauty of the town cruelty to horses. The mules which of Lisbon is not added to by the beauty draw the primitive, ramshackle trams of its inhabitants. The women are have the worst time of it, and are curiously the reverse of lovely. Only obliged to pull their load every now occasionally I saw a face which was and again off one line on to another, attractive by the odd conjuncture of an being urged thereto with some brutalolive skin and light grey eyes. They ity. But these trams do not run up do not wear mantillas. The lower the very hilly parts of the city ; the classes use a shawl. Those who are of main lines run along the Tagus east the bourgeois class or above it differ and west of the great Square of the little from Londoners. The working Black Horse. And by the river the or loafing men, for they laugh and loaf, city is flat. and work and chaff and chatter at every Only a little way up, in my street corner, are more distinct in costume, for instance, it rapidly becomes hilly. wearing the flat felt sombrero with On entering the hotel, to my surprise I turned-up edges that one knows from went down-stairs to my bedroom. On pictures, while the long coat which has looking out of the window a street was displaced the cloak still retains a smack even then sixty feet below me. The of it in the way they disregard the floor underneath me did not make part sleeves and hang it from their shoul- 1 of the hotel, but was a portion of a ders. These men are decidedly not so great building occupied by the poorer ugly as the women, and vary wonder- people and let out in flats. During the fully in size, color, and complexion, day, as I sat by the window working, though a big Portuguese is a rarity, the noise was not intolerable, but at The strong point in both sexes is their night when the Lisbonensians took to natural gift for wearing color, for amusing themselves they roused me choosing and blending or matching from a well-earned sleep. They shouted tints.
and sang and made mingled and inThese Portuguese men and women distinguishable uproars which rose work hard when they do not loaf and wildly through the narrow, deep space chatter. The porters, who stand in and burst into my open window. After knots with cords upon their shoulders, long endurance I rose and shut it, prebear huge loads ; a characteristic offerring heat to insomnia. But in the the place is this load-bearing and the day, after that discord, I always had size of the burdens. Women carry the harmonious compensations of true color. Even when the sun shone bril-l are always children and are no somliantly I could not distinguish the grey bre. Only in their graveyards stand blue of the deep shadows, so much solemn cypresses which rise darkly on blue was in the painted or distempered the hillside where they bury their outer walls. It was in Lisbon that I dead ; but in life they laugh and are first began to discern the mental effect merry even after they have children of of color, and to see that it comes truly their own. and of necessity from a people's tem- Though little apt to do what is supperament. Can a busy race be true posed to be a traveller's duty in visiting colorists?
certain obvious places of interest, I one In some parts of the town, the east-day hunted for the English cemetery in ern quarters, one cannot help notic- which Fielding lies buried, and found ing the still remaining influence of the it at last just at the back of a little open Moors. There are even some true rel- park or garden where children were ics ; but certainly the influence sur playing. On going in I found myself vives in flat-sided houses with small alone save for a gardener who was cutwindows and Moorish ornament high ting down some rank grass with a up just under the edge of the flat scythe. This cemetery is the quietest roof. One day being tired of the more and most beautiful I ever saw. One noisy western town, I went east and might imagine the dead were all climbed up and up and turned round friends. They are at any rate stranby a barrack, where some soldiers eyed gers in a far land, an English party me as a possible Englishman, being with one great man among them. I alternately in deep shadow and burning found his tomb easily, for it is made sunlight. I hoped to see the Tagus at of massive blocks of stone. Having last, for here the houses are not so brought from home his little “ Voyage lofty, and presently, being on very high to Lisbon," written just before he died, ground, I caught a view of it darkly I took it out, sat down on the stone, dotted with steamers over some flat and read a page or two. He says fareroofs. Towards the sea it narrows, but well at the very end. As I sat the above Lisbon it widens out like a lake. strange and melancholy suggestion of On the far side was a white town, the dead man speaking out of that beyond that again hills blue with great kind heart of his, now dust, the lucid atmosphere. At my feet (I leant strong contrast between the brilliant against a low wall) was a terraced gar- sunlight and the heavy sombreness of den with a big vine spread on a trellis, the cypresses of death, the song of making - or promising to make in the spring birds and the sound of children's later spring - a long, shady arbor, for voices, were strangely pathetic. I rose as yet the leaves were scanty and up and paced that little deadman's freshly green. Every liouse was faint ground which was still and quiet. And blue, or varied pink, or worn-out, on another grave I read but a name, washed-out, sun-dried green. All the the name of some woman, “ Eleanor." tones were beautiful and modest, fit- After life, and work, and love, this is the ting the sun yet not competing with it. end. Yet we do remember Fielding. In London the color would break the On the following day I went to Cinlevel of dull tints and angrily protest, tra out of sheer ennui, for my inability growing scarlet and vivid and wrathful. to talk Portuguese made me silent and And just as I looked away from the solitary perforce. And at Cintra I river and the vine-clad terrace there evaded my obvious duty, and only was a scurrying rush of little school- looked at the lofty rock on which the boys from a steep side street. They Moorish castle stands. For one thing ran down the slope, and passed me, the hill was swathed in mists, it rained going quickly like black blots on the at intervals, a kind of bitter tramontana road, yet their laughter was sunlight on was blowing. And after running the the ripple of waters. The Portuguese gauntlet of a crowd of vociferous donkey-boys I was anxious to get out of|clad women seemed black against the town. I made acquaintance with a white. Inside, in a half shade under friendly Cintran dog and went for a glass, a dense crowd moved and chatwalk. My companion did not object to tered and stirred to and fro. The my nationality or my inability to ex- women wore all the colors of flowers press myself in fluent Portuguese, and and fruit, but chiefly orange. And on amused himself by tearing the leaves the stone floor great flat baskets of of the Australian gum-trees, which oranges, each with a leaf of green atflourish very well in Portugal. But at tached to it, shone like pure gold. last, in cold disgust at the uncharitable Then there were red apples, and red puritanic weather which destroyed all handkerchiefs twisted over dark hair. beauty in the landscape, I returned to Milder looking in tint was the pale the town. Here I passed the prison. Japanese apple, with an artistic refineOn spying me the prisoners crowded to ment of paler color. The crowd, the the barred windows; those on the good humor, the noise, even the odor, lower floor protruded their hands, which was not so offensive as in our those on the upper story sent down a English Covent Garden, made a strikbasket by a long string; I emptied my ing and brilliant impression. Returnpockets of their coppers. It seemed ing to the hotel, I was met by a scarlet not unlike giving nuts to our human procession of priests and acolytes who cousins at the Zoo. Surely Darwin is bore the Host. The passers-by mostly the prince of pedigree-makers. Before bared their heads. Perhaps but a little him the daring of the bravest herald while ago every one might have been never went beyond Adam. He has worldly wise to follow their example, opened great possibilities to the college for the Inquisition lasted till 1808 in dealing with inherited dignity of an- Spain. cient fame.
In the afternoon of that day I went This Cintra is a town on a hill and in on board the Dunottar Castle, and in a hole, a kind of half-funnel opening the evening sailed for Madeira. on a long plain which is dotted by A week's odd moments of study and small villages and farms. If the don- enforced intercourse with waiters and key-boys were extirpated it might be male chambermaids, whose French was fine on a fine day.
even more primitive than my own, had Returning to the station, I ensconced taught me a little Portuguese, that cormyself in a carriage out of the way of rupt, unbeautiful, bastard Spanislı, and the cutting wind, and talked fluent bad I found it useful even on board the French with a kindly old Portuguese steamer. At any rate, I was able to who looked like a Quaker. Two others interpret for a Funchal lawyer who sat came in and entered into a lively con- by me at table, and afterwards invited versation in which Charing Cross and me to sec him. This smattering of London Bridge occurred at intervals. Portuguese I found more useful still at It took an hour and a quarter to do the Madeira, or at Funchal - its capital fifteen miles between Cintra and Lis- for I stayed in native hotels. It is the bon. I was told it was considered by only possible way of learning anything no means a very slow train. Travel- about the people in a short visit. ling in Portugal may do something to Moreover, the English hotels are full reconcile one to the trains in the south- of invalids. It is curious to note the east of England.
present prevalence of consumption The last place I visited in Lisbon was among the natives of Funchal. It is a the market. Outside the glare of the good enough proof on the first face of it hot sun was nearly blinding. Just in that consumption is catching. There that neighborhood all the main build- is a large hospital here for Portuguese ings are purely white, even the shadows patients, though the disease was unmake one's eyes ache. In the open known before the English made a spaces of the squares even brilliantly health resort of it.