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FASHIONS FOR FEBRU A RY.
The death of Madame Adelaide has thrown a | manteau à la Russe, is used both for the day and transient gloom over the circle immediately at- the evening; it is always composed of velvet, tached to the Court; but beyond that circle it and lined thoughout with fur, as well as borwill have very little effect. Indeed, even among dered with it. The fur should be ermine or the ladies who adopt mourning, it is of such a sable; but the very high price of the latter light and fanciful description as to have little or makes it now to be very rarely used. nothing in common with what it is intended for. Capotes of real feuire, lined with pink, and
As this subject cannot interest my fair readers, trimmed with pink and feutre velvet ribbons, I shall merely say that some very rich mourning are very much in request for the early part of silks have appeared. Some are black brochée, the morning ; so also are capotes of grey satin, in grey bouquets; others are striped in broad with a rose-coloured quilted lining, and decorated stripes of satin and moire alternately. There with voilettes attached to the edge of the brim, are also several quadrilled in satin and moire. Capotes of an intermixture of velvet and satin, Black satin, of an exceedingly rich kind, is also or velours épinglé and satin, are very much employed. Robes of the last material are trimmed adopted later in the day. I may cite among the with flounces, partly of satin and partly of prettiest of these, the capotes formed of alternate lace. Others are decorated with full ruches of bands of satin and velours épinglé, the materials ribbon, or revers of black stamped velvet. The laid full on the shape, and formed to it by narcoiffures are composed of jet beads, or black row satin rouleaux, on each of which is attached bugles; or else a black lace lappet, one end of a ruche of narrow black blonde; this is for the which is raised and attached at the ear by a exterior of the brim only: the material, which is bouquet of flowers composed of bugles. I have only one of the two, is laid plain on the crown, seen also some coiffures composed of a round of and a fanchon—that may be either composed of lace, thrown over a wreath of black currants; the other material edged with narrow blonde and others formed of velvet knots, fringed with lace, or else may be entirely of black blondeis bugles: they are placed at the back of the head, thrown carelessly over the crown, and attached and envelop the hair in a very novel and taste- at each side by a novel kind of knot of ribbon, ful manner. Morning chapeaux, and pardessus generally of a full shade of red, and striped and for outdoor dress, are always of velvet: the first figured in the two materials of the capote; the are trimme d on the exterior with black lace, and interior of the brim is lined with the same ribin the interior with tufts of violettes des bois, or bon, but has no other trimming than brides en scabieuse; the others bordered either with black suite. lace or sable fur-but the last is most frequently I may cite among the chapeaux those of deep employed.
blue velvet, of the demi-evasé form : they are Pardessus for carriage and public promenade lined with lemon-coloured satin; a long and very dress are now principally composed of velvet. full ostrich feather is attached on one side by a We still see, on fine, clear days, some petits small chere formed of the beards of marabouts. manteaux lined with satin, and trimmed with This is a novel kind of ornament, and has a four or five rows of lace; but the majority are pretty effect. Several chapeaux, both of light of a very large size, and entirely embroidered blue and pale pink velours épinglé, are trimmed with a new kind of passementerie, or else bordered with blonde of the same colour; some have the all round with a very broad band of sable fur. garniture entirely composed of it: it is disposed Dark green and deep blue velvet mantles are the in draperies and choux, that have a singularly most in favour for the morning—that is to say, light and pretty effect. It is, however, more for the promenade; but for morning visits, and generally employed with the addition of flowers half-dress in general, there are a good many or marabouts. A mixture of satin and velours mantelets-manteaux composed of satin of lighter épinglé is very much in favour for chapeaux. hues, and trimmed with volants festooned in Some of those most admired are composed of very deep dents; they are bordered with a light emerald green satin and sea-green velours épinglé. and very pretty passementerie. I have seen some The garniture is a bouquet of marabouts in both of these composed of emerald green, and of shades. The colour poussière, which has lately lavender-bloom satin, and lined with rose colour ; been little seen, is beginning to be a good deal they are very much admired. While I am adopted for velvet chapeaux. They are usually speaking of pardessus, I should observe that enlivened by pink or cherry-coloured satin lining, those for the evening are for the most part com-covered by a bouillonné of tulle to correspond, posed of white satin, and lined with pink. Several and ornamented with a follette of a novel kind, are trimmed with coloured blonde: if the par- the beards knotted with chenille to correspond. dessus is made with a hood, the blonde should be I must not forget what may be sonsidered the deep enough to form a veil. Others are trimmed greatest novelty of the month : chapeaux comwith ermine, and, for young unmarried ladies, a posed of chenille of different light hues over good many are bordered with swan's-down. white satin, or else satin of the colour of the The witzchoura, or, as it is now called, the chenille. A revived fashion-one that has appeared and disappeared two or three times—is often substituted for them; they are disposed in again come into yogue, and seems likely to be at three or four rows, and are so extremely deep least partially adopted during the season: I that they sometimes cover three parts of the mean wadded and quilted chapeaux. They are skirt. I should observe, however, that these now composed of either white or pink satin; garnitures and those of black lace are seldom they are trimmed only with a knot of velours seen but in the most elegant style of half-dress, épinglé on the exterior, and tufts to correspond but flounces of the material of the robe may in the interior of the brim; to the edge of which be adopted either in that or for the public proa small voilette of point d'Angleterre is attached. menade. The number of robes without garni
Cloth is a good deal employed for robes in tures round the bottom is very great, and seems plain promenade dress, and sometimes also for every month to increase. the public promenade; the form is the same for The redingote form is decidedly predominant both, being a close redingote. There are many in morning dress; the corsage is closed to the robes in the first that have only a row of fancy ceinture, but the skirt is open froin the waist. silk buttons down the front of the corsage and A trimmning of velvet or passementerie is disskirt. Others have, in addition to the buttons, | posed on the corsage so as to give a width to the two rows of narrow velvet ribbon on each side chest that is highly advantageous to the shape; of the skirt and corsage, the long tight sleeve it descends to the ceinture, and if the corsage is having a cuff à la mousquetaire trimmed to cor-made, as is frequently the case, with basquines, respond. If the robe is intended for the public the trimming turns round in front, so as to promenade—for which I must observe cloth is have the appearance of little pockets. In some not much used-it is always very expensively instances the trimming is continued down the trimmed, either with very rich passementerie or | front of the skirt, but this is not general. The with martre zibeline, the most beautiful and ex- under dress, always composed of cambric or pensive kind of sable fur.
muslin, may be either trimmed with an embroiBlack satin is now in very great request for dery en tablier, or finished with a deep flounce public promenade robes ; so also is moire satinée, festooned round the border. There is great and velvet of dark colours. Poplin, particu- variety in the materials for dinner and evening larly Irish poplin, keeps its vogue; the favourite robes--maize-coloured satins, brochées in blue colours for it are pearl grey and lavender bloom. wreaths; satins Ecossais, a white ground, Satin de Canton and Pekin are worn both in chequered in brilliant colours; damasks, in two dark and quiet colours. There is no absolute shades of the same colour; they have in various novelty in the forms of these robes, but I think shades of red a most brilliant effect: I may add I may now announce with confidence that there to my list, reps satiné more antique, and some is a diminution in the length of skirts, at least rich full-coloured velvets. Some robes, made as regards out-door dress; it is true, as yet the for dinner in the demi-redingote form, are alteration is not great; but as we have begun to trimmed down the front with small choud of shorten them, it is probable that before the end ribbon : others are decorated with passementerie. of the season they will be reduced to a reason- | Several new garnitures of this latter kind have able length; I wish I could say as much for recently appeared. I may cite among the pret. their width, but they still retain it, and a new tiest, an échelle, each bar formed by a kind of robe has just been introduced in which it is even twisted rouleau, ending at each side in a star of exaggerated. How far this robe à la Chatelaine, beautiful open-work. Montants, composed enas it is called, "will be fashionable, I cannot yet tirely of passementerie in imitation of lace, but say; it is intended not only for carriage, but for of beautiful and varied colours, are also in evening dress, in different materials of course : request. The trimmings may be said to constithe corsage for the first is made high, close, and tute all, or nearly all, the novelty that these robes pointed; but it differs from those adopted at afford, with the exception, however, of the robepresent, by covering the hips and the lower part châtelaine, of which I have already spoken; of the bust completely in the style of a corset, when made for evening dress, the corsage is and has consequently an exceedingly formal | always low, and the sleeves very short ; large appearance; the effect is rendered still more transparent open sleeves fall over them in the ungraceful by the excessive fulness of the skirt, / same manner as those worn in the fourteenth and the manner in which it is set on in very and fifteenth centuries; they are composed of thick plaits. These robes have no trimming blonde, tulle, lace, or tarlatane, according as the round the border, but the corsages are decorated material of the robe is rich or otherwise. with passementerie. This kind of trimming is Several new gauzes have appeared for ballo almost universally adopted for redingotes; some dress, in addition to the materials I spoke of new descriptions of it have recently appeared, last month : some are of the rich plain kind that present a most exquisite imitation of em- called Grenadine gauze; others, pink, white, broidery; this is disposed on many robes in the and azure blue, are figured in bouquets of silver tunic style, rounding off at each side at a short | repeated on the volants with which they are distance from the bottom, and encircling the trimmed. Transparent materials decidedly preback of the skirt; it is arranged on others in dominate for ball robes, though satins are the tablier style, but in a great variety of forms. fashionable, and taffetas, particularly tatte Flounces retain their vogue for robes, but where Pompadour, still more so; the corsages of th the material is a heavy one, rich fringes are very robes are not so deeply pointed; some are di
Description of the Plates.
full under a ceinture of very broad and extremely , respond. Long tight sleeve; mancheron of a rich ribbon; it is folded round the waist, and novel form, trimmed with fringe and buttons. the ends fall very low. The corsages of ball | The skirt is ornamented with three rows of robes are in general very low; those of which I buttons disposed in the form of a broken cone. have just spoken are plain at the top, but the White satin capote; a round and moderately fulness drawn to the ceinture in a manner very open shape; two falls of lace are disposed in becoming to the shape. Others are draped à la volants on the brim, and an ornament composed grecque before and behind. Silk robes have the of ribbon is placed on each side ; white brides corsages quite tight to the shape. Sleeves are complete the garniture. Rich silk shawl; rose shorter than those of evening robes, but there is colour figured with black, and black fringe. nothing novel in their form. Robes of light
HALF-LENGTH FIGURES. materials are made with double, and sometimes
No. 3. EVENING DRESS.-Pink taffeta robe; triple skirts. Flowers, blonde lace, tulle bouil-. lonnee, are all employed for trimmings; even
a low corsage, round at top, and deeply pointed
at bottom; it is trimmed with a berthe of the passementerie is not unfrequently used, but it is of an exquisitely light kind; in general it is
same; there are two falls, each festooned and
cut in dents; the berthe covers the short tight employed as a heading to blonde lace flounces, or tulle bouillonnée. Most of the robes with
sleeves. Double skirt; the upper one descenddouble skirts have the upper one open at the
ing a little below the knee is cut round in dents, side, but partially closed either by flowers, rib
" and looped in the centre by an ornament of cut bons, or what is still more novel, by blonde lace |
ribbon. White gauze turban, a small light shape, échelonnée, intermixed with flowers.
decorated with a red rose embedded in foliage.
No. 4. BRIDAL DRESS.-Robe of white satin Ball coiffures are generally, but not always, ; of hair adorned with flowers only; but in several
à la Reine ; the corsage high at the back, but instances the flowers are tastefully mingled with
opening so as fully to display the chemisette lace, or blonde lace lappets; light turbans, com
drawn quite up to the throat in full rows of posed of lace or crape, are also seen; and even
bouillonnée, formed by entre deux : a fold down fancy coiffures of velvet, ornamented either with
each side bordered with lace forms a lappel,
which, closing at the waist, is continued en feathers or gold fringe and tassels, have ap- |
tablier down the front of the skirt. The sleeves peared. These last, though perfectly adapted for evening dress, are in my opinion much too
a three-quarter length, and tight, are trimmed heavy for ball costume.
with lace set on full; under sleeve of muslin There is not much change in colours, but
bouillonnée. The bouquet at the waist is formed bleu de France, a shade between sapphire and
of a full-blown white rose in the centre of a tuft lapis lazuli, is very much in vogue : so is also a
of foliage mingled with orange blossoms. The very delicate shade of green, called vert de fruit.
hair is adorned with the bridal veil of white lace, Pink is not so fashionable this season for robes,
attached by a wreath of white roses, foliage, and
orange blossoms. but more so than ever for chapeaux, ornaments,
No. 5. DINNER DRESS.-Black satin robe; and sorties de bal. ADRIENNE DE M .
a half high corsage and sleeves, a three-quarter
length, tight and rounded at the bottom; tarlaDESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. tane under-sleeve. Fichu à la Marie Antoinette,
of application de Bruxelles ; it is attached on FIRST PLATE.
the bosom by a chou of rose-coloured velvet MORNING DRESS. --Violet satin robe; aleach side with a velvet chou.
ribbon. Cap of point d'Angleterre, trimmed at high close corsage, trimmed down each side of the front with black lace laid flat in the
SECOND PLATE. lappel style; it is continued in the same Lemon-coloured satin robe; a low, tight corstraight line down the front of the skirt. A sage, deeply pointed, and short tight sleeves. single papillon knot of ribbon to correspond | Berthe of application de Bruxelles, of a large is placed in the centre of the bosom, and a size, completely covering the sleeves. The berthe succession of them at regular distances or- descends in a point to the waist, from whence naments the skirt. The sleeves are a three- two montants of application go down the sides quarter length, over demi-large cambric ones; of the skirt in the tunic style. A rose, embedded square mancherons descending to the elbow, in foliage, is placed on each montant, at regular cleft in front, and trimmed with lace and knots distances; the lace widens as it descends, and of ribbon. Green velvet chapeau, a round and terminates in a round, in the centre of which is very open shape; the interior of the brim is a full bouquet of roses and foliage. Pardessus decorated with a half-wreath of roses on each of violet velvet, lined with white satin : it is a side, and green satin brides; the exterior with a half-length pelisse, closed down the front, close band of velvet, in which two short green feathers fitting before, but loose at the back from the are placed on each side.
shoulders. Long sleeve, of moderate width. CARRIAGE DRESS.-Redingote of green moire The garniture is sable fur, disposed in a pelerine satiné; it is a new light shade, called vert de collar brought down the front in robings, and fruit, the corsage quite high, close, and de- turning very broad round the bottom. The top scending in two rounded points, is trimmed in and bottom of the sleeve is trimmed en suite. the habit style, with fancy silk buttons to cor- The hair arranged in soft bands in front, and a