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steamer, always excepting the article of sleep!” For seventy-two hours, sleepless, fish, which is only too plenty ; and we with little and poor food, had I been urgfind the peasant's diet of sour milk and ing forward lagging horses under the burnblack biscuit, rather weakening than other ing midsummer sun. My face, blistered wise.
with heat, felt on fire; my lips were parchWe engage an interpreter here, for we ed and bleeding; my inflamed and haitshall find only Finlanders north of this, closed eyelids could not protect my eyes and our communications with the natives from the glare. How gladly I closed them must hereafter first be framed in French in forgetfulness! for Ostrom, by him translated into Swed At one o'clock the next day (Sunday), ish to Eric, and by Eric into the Finnish I awoke. The yard was half full of Fins tongue.
who loitered about the inn, after having We proceed along the shores of the examined our carriages with the greatest Forneä river, all of us travel-wearied. curiosity. They looked upon us as wonWe get on slowly, and at last, giving up ders. While I was dressing, a group colall hopes of reaching Mount Avesaxa to lected about my door, eagerly staring in night, fix our hopes, instead, on a nearer when it was opened by the “ Jungfer," mountain. Twelve o'clock approaches, who was arranging breakfast, and freand we fear we shall not even reach this. quently pushing it ajar themselves for The lower edge of the sun touches the greater convenience of observation. They horizon. Watching him anxiously, we are large, athletic people, active and enerfind he does not descend. “He will not getic. The men wear queer leather caps, set,” cries F.; “ we shall see the midnight coarse homespun clothes, and boots turned sun.” We stop the horses, and in pro up at the toes, and constantly smoke bad found silence fix our eyes on the great tobacco in wooden pipes. luminary. Now we perceive he moves, Late in the afternoon we set out up the but not downwards. A blood-red ball of river in two boats, each propelled by three fire, he seems to roll along the horizon. men. Herr Bergstrom, the Swedish tax-colMajestically he rolls, till an intervening lector, and the only civilized man in the mountain threatens to hide him from our neighborhood, kindly accompanied us. The sight; but no, a full third of his disc shines boats are built very light, low in the cenbright upon us. He keeps on from West tre, and high in the bows, and are pushed to East. All nature is hushed as if in up the swift stream by "poling” along
The heavens are cloudless, save a the shore. The Torneä is wide and rapid, few light cirri, that float a few degrees studded with large islands. The banks above the sun. In the north the sky is are rather high, and covered with bright colored yellow, clear and brilliant, as in a green grass, for here, though the summer winter's sunset.
is so short, vegetation is very luxuriant It is twelve o'clock. The sun rests on while it lasts. the North Pole. We hold our breaths. We passed many salmon fisheries. The Still he moves toward the east, rising al fences of poles, stretched across the stream, most imperceptibly. A bird in the pine. pushed by the current, and recoiling by wood bursts into a flood of song. The their own elasticity, make a low murmursun detaches himself from the horizon, ing, as if complaining of being removed and slowly rises into the open heaven. from their element. We pluck a flower cherished by his mid Our men stopped to rest at the dairy night heat. We look around on the lonely belonging to the postmaster. They galandscape. The trees are few, and so low thered around a huge bowl of sour milk, that they seem but shrubs. The frequent each armed with a spoon, and soon dishills are destitute of vegetation, and the patched their frugal mcal. broad Forneä river winds his way among Sour milk, hard rye cake, and fish, are, them. We mark the prospect well, for this in summer, the only food of these sturdy is an era in our lives.
peasants. The little white cows were asWe drive on along the banks of the sembled in a stable, from which the gnats noble river, till at two o'clock we reach were driven off by the smoke of a peat the little village of Matarengi. There is fire before the door. They were tended no road north of this. If we wish to pur by two strapping, rosy-cheeked lasses, sue our journey, it must be in boats. But and every thing, from stable to dairy, was we are too fatigued to moralize upon this, neat and clean as possible. the end of civilization, the "jumping-off Our next stoppage was at the falls in place," and I gladly throw myself into the river, where we left one boat, and one of the little coffin-like boxes, which while the men drew the other up along the Fins use for beds, and close my eyes the bank, we walked through the woods. in sleep. O wise Sancho Panza ! to invoke Swarms of musquitoes and gnats attacked & blessing on “the man that invented us, and, spite of handkerchiefs over our
heads, and waving pine branches, bit us served that they, as well as his stockings, furiously. We walked two miles through were stuffed with hay. This is the unimarshy grounds, covered with a profusion versal practice here, and the Laplanders of the " Linnea borealis," and other beauti even stuff all their clothes in this manner, ful wild flowers, of kinds unknown to us, as it keeps them from touching the skin and reached a log house, in a narrow clear and impairing the circulation in cold weamg. A pair of reindeer horns were nailed ther. over the door. A barrel was sunk,jn the After an hour's rest we took our leave ground to collect the water from a spring. (the good people demanding but a "rix Every thing looked like our own back gelt dollar," sixteen cents, for all their woods." " This house was built, and this trouble), and, re-embarking steered into clearing made, but five years since," said the centre of the stream and rowed swiftly Herr Bergstrom," they are pushing culti downwards. We had fishing tackle, long vation northward.” "Northward” it was lines with large hooks having on the shank indeed ; north of 67° 30'. We were with a piece of bright tin and a bit of red worstin the Arctic circle! In no other country ed. This was so made that as it towed in the world, except Norway, can cultiva far behind the boat it "shimmered ” in tion be carried on even many degrees south the water looking not unlike a minnow. of this; and here we were surrounded by Three large fish were caught with this a forest of green trees, and treading on bait during the descent.
Our progress green grass and lovely flowers.
was rapid and we soon reached the head Taking boats again, we ascended the of the cataract. Herr B. asked if I would river till the sun sank very low, when we descend the falls with him. I could landed, and scrambled up the high bank hardly believe he would attempt such a to a tine point of view. We saw some thing, but, finding him serious and that it wondering peasants regarding us atten was not unusual, I assented. A man was tively from the door of their hut.
obtained who makes it his business to It must have been a strange apparition steer boats down the falls (for it would be to these poor Fins, to see a party of civil certain destruction to attempt it without ized beings start up on their premises at an experienced pilot), and with two rowers midnight, without any apparent means of we set off. getting there.
The rowers pulled lustily to give steerBut our attention was soon fixed on the age way to the boat; the grizzly old steersSun, whose lower limb grazed the horizon. man, his long, white hair streaming in the Now, again a huge fiery ball, he rolled on wind seized firmly his broad paddle; the the mountain tops this time not dipping men talked and joked in the uncouth Finbehind them. His edge touched a distant nish tongue; the rapid stream hurried us solitary pine, then showed the bare bran along; while I sat quietly wondering, like ches in dark relief against his red disc, the sailor when the ship was struck by then appeared severed by its scathed lightning, “what the devil is coming next." trunk, kept onward and left it behind him Soon the roar of the cataract drowned all without rising or sinking a second. Thus other sounds; the water was here a surgswift and far he passed in right ascension, ing mass of foam, there showed through and not until some minutes past twelve its yellow waves the rocks with which it did he alter his declination, and shaking off warred. The boat shot down the first his contact with the Earth. seek again the steep descent like lightning, then rocked zenith.
and rose and felt like a ship in a stormy “Poling” on to Sortola, which consists sea, then was struck by a high wave and of a few scattered huts on the Russian trembled with the shock, then leaped side of the stream, we landed and roused downwards as if to plunge beneath the the inmates of a cottage.
stream and dash the foam of the next The old woman made her appearance in wave far and near from her high prow. the economical female costume of the Still rushing down the torrent, the thuncountry which saves all trouble with the der of the billows in front directed our toilet, namely, the under garment in which attention to a huge rock, the waters hurlshe had slept and a black skirt of the ing themselves against it, and mounting thick heavy material which they them over its very top. The pilot gave the selves weave, secured by a cord about the craft a sheer, and, before we knew how or waist.
why, we had left it far behind. The She conducted the boatmen to the kit water was splashing into the skiff as we chen, and us to a spare house (each room took an oblique course. All was noise is a separate house and the meanest dwell and consusion around us; the waters belings consist of several), and served them lowed and the shores seemed hurrying with sour milk and us with coffee. Herr away. Another roar warned us of another Bergstrom drew off his wet boots and I ob rock. The boat reared like an impatient
alertness, contrast agreeably with the lazy, stolid peasants of Germany.
We reached Matarengi at ten o'clock, and retired to sleep during the noon-day heat.
Toward six I rose and set off with the Burgher to visit Herr Bergstrom. He has a pleasant place on the river, and three or four little red houses built in a quadrangle after the Swedish fashion.
His wife came in to welcome us and brought a bottle of punch, which we drank with many bows and flourishes, the host always insisting on our emptying our cups at one draught, then refilling and clinking glasses. The room was plainly furnished, but, of course, scrupulously neat. There was the usual rack in the corner for pipes. Among these was a pipe bowl of great size made of a knot of a wood resembling maple. It was a hundred years old, and had last belonged to the Papa” or Parish clergy
charger, plunged downward and again shot by, giving us hardly time to glance at it as we passed. She leaped over the last wave, sped through the swift rapid below the fall and safely grounded on the shore.
It was a most exciting passage, and I had plenty of leisure to meditate upon it while the men were bailing out the halffilled boat, and the rest of the party were accomplishing their slow overland passage.
We rowed down stream to a salmon fishery and sent a boatman ashore to waken the fishermen.
With a loud halloo six young men and three girls rushed out helter-skelter from the rude hut, donning their clothes as they ran, and sprang, shouting and laughing, into their boats. The foremost girl, a strapping, red-haired maiden, seized the oars of the first boat, into which three men had sprung, and pulled it into the stream before the others had tumbled into their boats. A fence of upright poles driven into the bottom like stakes, stretches entirely across the river with a square inclosure fenced off at the centre. This has openings at the sides, which the salmon enter on finding their progress up the river stopped at every other point, but discover too late that they are in a cul de sac, and wander about seeking the exit.
The boats, propelled at such speed as to throw jet at stem and leave foam astern, entered the inclosure, and the rowers dropping their oars and pulling the boats along by the fence payed out the nets along the four sides. Then, all three boat's crews seized the upper net, one at the centre and one at each end, and pulled it downwards, one person in each boat constantly darting a pole into the water and catching it again as it rose, to frighten the fish and prevent their springing over the top of the net. They soon brought the upper net side by side with the lower one, and then, still thrashing the water with the pole to keep the poor fish frightened and bewildered, haul up the two nets together with three huge salmon entangled in the meshes. These were killed by blows of a club on the head to prevent their jumping out of the boat. Again with great shouting the fishers dashed around the inclosure, the men pulling while the half wild girls threw overboard the nets as fast as their arins could move. They drew them down, pulled them in, took this time but one fish, laid on their oars a moment to look at us, and then calling to one another they darted off again across the stream. Such powerful energetic Girls I never saw before, and indeed the whole people, in activity and
With Mrs. B. and her son, " Johann Eric,” a little boy four years old, we set off in boats for an excursion to Mount Avesaxa. It was a calm, delightful evening, the river smooth as glass, and that light haze spread over the country which improves the view as a veil of_gauze heightens the charms of beauty. It produced the same quiet, languid sense of pleasure that I had often felt beneath an Italian sky, and yet no land can be more different from Italy than this. We wound about among large thickly-wooded islands and along hilly but not precipitous shores to the foot of Avesaxa.
The moment we landed and commenced the ascent all languidness was put to flight by swarms of musquitoes who wage incessant war on all invaders of their haunts, and we were soon brushing away like madcaps with handkerchiefs and pine branches. The ascent was in some places steep and rocky, but the mountain was not high, and even the gosso (Anglice “ small boy ") got up without much fatigue.
A barrel elevated on a pole marked the summit. It was here that some scientific measurements, having reference to the form of the Earth, were made by Maupertuis and other French astronomers in 1736.
The top of the mountain was destitute of vegetation like every hilltop in that latitude, and the surrounding elevations were so low that Avesaxa, though by no means a high mountain, overtopped them all.
On one side flowed the broad Torneä much resembling the Connecticut. Far to the north, within the Arctic circle, rose pyramidal mountains, behind which the Sun, now low down, seemed about to sink. On the eastern and precipitous side was a pretty lake with an outlet encircling
Mount Avesaxa and joining the river. In Swedish, we passed the time till near midevery direction rose low hills, their bases night. covered with dwarf pines.
And now the winged horses of the Sun, Our enjoyment of the view was so les that had long hovered over the mountains, sened by the increasing swarms of mus just grazed their summits and slowly drew quitoes that we gladly took refuge in the their chariot along the horizon. They smoke of a huge fire kindled by our boat spurned with their heels the dark pine
The smoke of pine wood, impreg woods till past twelve. Then the fiery nated strongly with the odor of tar, was car was half buried, axle deep, behind an not disagrecable to us, but the musquitoes intervening peak. They dashed forth, were sore discomfited by it and soon van poised themselves for a moment, and then quished. Our Swedish friends, who had springing from this dark Earth began anew brought a great store of provisions, now to climb high Heaven. gave us punch and cake, and continued of The rising Sun was the signal for anfering both, almost incessantly, the whole
other little supper,
and then, reversing the night.
Sun's course, we commenced our descent. Between admiring the prospect, brush That same day we began our journey ing off musquitoes and taking asylum in southwards and were glad to welcome the smoke, eating and drinking and laugh- night again in lower latitudes. ing at the little Eric, who got excited by Sleep is a blessing and darkness begets a glass of punch and went about turning sleep, but still it is pleasant, around a our glassfuls into his till he sipped enough winter's evening fireside, to recall to mind to turn his own little head, and making our three days visit to the Arctic zone and absurd attempts at conversation in bad the thrice-seen MIDNIGHT Sun.
Whoe'er has travell'd life's dull round,
Whate'er his fortunes may have been,
THE old, legitimate, delightful idea of Inn, is sadly changed. Few hosts can
an Inn is becoming obsolete ; like so find time to gossip; the clubs have withmany other traditional blessings, it has drawn the wits; the excitement of a stage been sacrificed to the genius of locomotion. coach arrival is no more ; and a poet might The rapidity with which distance is con travel a thousand leagues without finding sumed obviates the need that so long ex a romantic “maid of the inn” such as isted, of by-way retreats and halting-pla- Southey has immortalized. Jollity, freeces. A hearty meal or a few hours' sleep dom, and comfort, are no longer inevitably caught between the arrival of the trains, associated with the name; the world has is all the railway traveller requires; and become a vast procession that scorns to the modern habit of moving in caravans, linger on its route, and has almost forgothas infinitely lessened the romantic pro ten how to enjoy. Thanks, however, to babilities and comfortable realities of a the conservative spell of literature, we can journey: the rural alehouse, and pictur- yet appreciate, in imagination, at least, esque hostel now exist chiefly in the do the good old English Inn. Goldsmith's main of memory; crowds, haste, and os Village Alehouse has daguerreotyped its tentation triumph here over privacy and humble species, while Dr. Johnson's erenrational enjoyment, as in nearly all the ings at the Mitre keep vivid the charm of arrangements of modern society. Old its metropolitan fame. Indeed it is quite Walton would discover now but few of impossible to imagine what British authors the secluded inns that refreshed him on his would have done without the solace and piscatorial excursions; the ancient ballads inspiration of the inn. Addison fled thion the wall have given place to French pa
ther from domestic annoyance ; Dryden's per; the scent of lavender no longer makes chair at Will's was an oracular throne; the linen fragrant; instead of the crackle when hard pressed, Steele and Savage of the open wood fire, we have the dingy sought refuge in a tavern and wrote pamcoal-smoke, and exhalations of a stove ; phlets for a dinner; Farquhar found there and green blinds usurp the place of the his best comic material ; Sterne opens his snowy curtains. Not only these material Sentimental Journey with his landlord, details, but the very social character of the Monsieur Dessein, Calais, and his inn
yard; Shenstone confessed he found life's scenes in the ring and on the race-course; warmest welcome at an inn;" Sheridan's here the countenance of a leading merconvivial brilliancy shone there with pe chant, and there a military effigy-suggest culiar lustre; Hazlitt relished Congreve the vocation of those who chiefly frequent anew reading him in the shady windows the inn; nor are local features less certain of a village inn after a long walk; even to find recognition; a view of the nearest an old Almanac, an Annual Register, will nobleman's estate, or his portrait, ornaacquire an interest under such circum ments the sitting-room ; and the observstances; and a dog-eared copy of the Sea ant eye can always discover an historical sons found in such a place induced Cole hint at these public resorts. ridge to exclaim, “ this is fame!” while The coffee-room of the best class of Byron exulted when informed that a well English inns, carpeted and curtained, the thumbed volume of the English Bards dark rich hue of the old mahogany, the had been seen soon after its publication ancient plate, the four-post bed, the sirloin at a little hostel in Albany. Elia's quaint or mutton joint, the tea, muffins, Cheshire anecdote of the Quakers when they all eat and Stilton, the ale, the coal fire and the supper without paying for it, and Irving's Times,” form an epitome of England; "Stout Gentleman,” are inci which and it is only requisite to ponder well the could only have been suggested by a coun associations and history of each of these try inn; and as to the novelists, from Sinol items, to arrive at what is essential in lett and Fielding to Scott and Dickens—the English history and character. The immost characteristic scenes occur on this passable divisions of society are shown in vantage ground, where the strict unities the difference between the commercial ” of life are temporarily discarded, and its and the “coffee-room; " the time-worn zest miraculously quickened by fatigue, aspect of the furniture is eloquent of conhunger, a kind of infinite possibility of servatism; the richness of the meats and events, a singular mood of adventure and strength of the ale explain the bone and pastime, nowhere else in civilized lands so sinew of the race; the tea is fragrant with readily induced. It is, therefore, from Cowper's memory and suggestive of East instinct that these enchanting chroniclers India conquests; the cheese proclaims a lead us thither. Gil Blas acquired his thrifty agriculture; the bed and draperies first lesson in a knowledge of the world, comfort; the coal fire manufactures, while by his encounter with the parasite at the the “ Times" is the chart of English eninn of Panafleur; and Don Quixote's en terprise, division of labor, wealth, selfthusiasm always reaches a climax at these esteem, politics, trade, court life, and bullyplaces of wayside sojourn. The "Black ism. Bull," at Islington, is said to have been Sir
The national subserviency to rank is Walter Raleigh's mansion; "Dolly's Chop as plainly evinced by the plates on chamHouse” is dear to authors for the sake of ber doors, at the provincial inns, setting Goldsmith and his friends, who used to go forth that therein on a memorable night there on their way to and from Paternoster
slept a certain scion of nobility. As an Row. At the “ Salutation and Cat," instance of the inappropriate, of that stolid Smithfield — Coleridge and Lamb held insensibility to taste and tact which bememorable converse; and Steele osten longs to the nation, the English waiter is dated his Tattlers from the " Trumpet. a striking proof. His costume is that of Ilow appropriate for Voltaire to have
a clergyman or a gentleman dressed for lodged, in London, at the “White Pe
company, and in ridiculous contrast with ruke”! Spenser died at an inn in King his menial obeisance ; perhaps it is the St., Westminster, on his return from Ire self-importance nourished by this costume, land. At the “Red Horse,” Stratford, is which renders him such a machine, incathe “Irving room," precious to the Ameri pable of an idea beyond the routine of can traveller; and how renowned have handing a dish and receiving a sixpence. sweet Anne Page and jolly Falstaff made Clement's Inn was the scene of that the very name of the “Garter Inn!” In
memorable dialogue between Shallow and the East a monastery, in the Desert a tent, Sir John; at the “ Cock" in Bond St. on the Nile a boat, but in England an Sir Charles Sedley got scandalously drunk. inn, is the pilgrim's home--and one not Will's Coffee House was formerly called less characteristic.
the “Rose;" hence the line In England and in towns of Anglo-Saxon origin, where the economies of life have
"Supper and friends expect me at the Rose." a natural sway, we find inns representa Button's, so long frequented by the wits tive; in London especially a glance at the of Queen Anne's time, was kept by a forparlor wall reveals the class to whose mer servant of Lady Warwick; and convenience the tavern is dedicated; in there the author of Cato fraternized with one the portraits of actors, in another Garth, Armstrong, and other cotemporary