as the English or Royal Irish, but had a more elastic and graceful gait, like a herd of their own red deer, or as if accustomed to stepping down the sides of mountains. But they made a sad impression on the whole, for it was obvious that all true manhood was in the process of being drilled out of them. I have no doubt that soldiers well drilled are, as a class, peculiarly destitute of originality and independence. The officers appeared like men dressed above their condition. It is impossible to give the soldier a good education, without making him a deserter. His natural foe is the government that drills him. What would any philanthropist, who felt an interest in these men's welfare, naturally do, but first of all teach them so to respect themselves, that they could not be hired for this work, whatever might be the consequences to this government or that;-not drill a few, but educate all. I observed one older man among them, gray as a wharf-rat, and supple as an eel, marching lock-step with the rest who would have to pay for that elastic gait. We returned to the citadel along the heights, plucking such flowers as grew there. There was an abundance of succory still in blossom, broad-leaved goldenrod, butter-cups, thorn-bushes, Canada thistles, and ivy, on the very summit of Cape Diamond. I also found the bladdercampion in the neighborhood. We there enjoyed an extensive view, which I will describe in another place. Our pass, which stated that all the rules were "to be strictly enforced," as if they were determined to keep up the resemblance of reality to the last gasp, opened to us the Dalhousie Gate, and we were conducted over the citadel by a bare-legged Highlander in cocked hat and full regimentals. He told us that he had been here about three years, and had formerly been stationed at Gibraltar. As if his regiment, having perchance been nestled amid the rocks of Edinburgh Castle, must flit from rock to rock thenceforth over the earth's surface, like a bald eagle, or other bird of prey, from eyrie to eyrie. As we were going out, we met the Yankees coming in, in a body, headed by a red-coated officer called the commandant, and escorted by many citizens, both English and French Canadian. I therefore immediately fell into the procession, and went round the citadel again with more intelligent guides, carrying, as before, all my effects with me. Seeing that nobody walked with the redcoated commandant, I attached myself to him, and though I was not what is called well-dressed, he did not know whether to repel me or not, for I talked like one who was not aware of any deficiency in that respect. Probably there was not one among all the Yankees who went to Canada this time, who was not more splendidly dressed than I was. It would have been a poor story if I had not enjoyed some distinction. I had on my "bad-weather clothes," like Olaf Trygresson the Northman, when he went to the Thing in England, where, by the way, he won his bride. As we stood by the thirty-two-pounder on the summit of Cape Diamond, which is fired three times a day, the commandant told me that it would carry to the Isle of Orleans, four miles distant, and that no hostile vessel could come round the island. I now saw the subterranean or, rather, "casemated barracks" of the soldiers, which I had not noticed before, though I might have walked over them. They had very narrow windows, serving as loop-holes for musketry, and small iron chimneys rising above the ground. There we saw the soldiers at home and in an undress, splitting wood-I looked to see whether with swords or axes-and in various ways endeavoring to realize that their nation was now at peace with this part of the world. A part of each regiment, chiefly officers, are allowed to marry. A grandfatherly, would-be-witty Englishman, could give a Yankee whom he was patronizing, no reason for the bare knees of the Highlanders, other than oddity. The rock within the citadel is a little convex, so that shells falling on it would roll toward the circumference, where the barracks of the soldiers and officers are; it has been proposed, therefore, to make it slightly concave, so that they may roll into the centre, where they would be comparatively harmless; and it is estimated that to do this would cost twenty thousand pounds sterling. It may be well to remember this when I build my next house, and have the roof "all correct" for bombshells. At mid-afternoon we made haste down Sault au Matelot-street, towards the Falls of Montmorenci, about eight miles down the St. Lawrence, on the north side, leaving the further examination of Quebec till our return. On our way, we saw men in the streets sawing logs pit-fashion, and afterward, with a common wood-saw and horse, cutting the planks into squares for paving the streets. This looked very shiftless, especially in a country abounding in water-power, and reminded me that I was no longer in Yankee land. I found, on inquiry, that the excuse for this was, that labor was so cheap; and I thought, with some pain, how cheap men are here! I have since learned that the English traveller, Warburton, remarked, soon after landing at Quebec, that every thing was cheap there but men. That must be the difference between going thither from New and from Old England. I had already observed the dogs harnessed to their little milk-carts, which contain a single large can, lying asleep in the gutters, regardless of the houses, while they rested from their labors, at different stages of the ascent in the Upper Town. I was surprised at the regular and extensive use made of these animals for drawing, not only milk, but groceries, wood, &c. It reminded me that the dog commonly is not put to any use. Cats catch mice; but dogs only worry the cats. Kalm, a hundred years ago, saw sledges here for ladies to ride in, drawn by a pair of dogs. He says, "A middlesized dog is sufficient to draw a single person, when the roads are good ;" and he was told by old people, that horses were very scarce in their youths, and almost all the land-carriage was then effected by dogs. They made me think of the Esquimaux, who, in fact, are the next people on the north. Charlevoix says, that the first horses were introduced in 1665. We crossed Dorchester Bridge, over the St. Charles, the little river in which Cartier, the discoverer of the St. Lawrence, put his ships, and spent the winter of 1535, and found ourselves on an excellent macadamized road, called Le Chemin de Beauport. We had left Concord Wednesday morning, and we endeavored to realize that now, Friday morning, we were taking a walk in Canada, in the Seigniory of Beauport, a foreign country, which a few days before had seemed almost as far off as England and France. Instead of rambling to Flint's Pond or the Sudbury Meadows, we found ourselves, after being a little detained in cars and steamboats-after spending half a night at Burlington, and half a day at Montrealtaking a walk down the bank of the St. Lawrence to the Falls of Montmorenci and elsewhere. Well, I thought to myself, here I am in a foreign country; let me have my eyes about me, and take it all in. It already looked and felt a good deal colder than it had in New England, as we might have expected it would. Í realized fully that I was four degrees nearer the pole, and shuddered at the thought; and I wondered if it were possible that the peaches might not be all gone when I returned. It was an atmosphere that made me think of the fur-trade, which is so interesting a department in Canada, for I had for all head covering a thin palm-leaf hat without lining, that cost twenty-five cents, and over my coat one of those unspeakably cheap, as well as thin, brown linen sacks of the Oak Hall pattern, which every summer appear all over New England, thick as the leaves upon the trees. It was a thoroughly Yankee costume, which some of my fellowtravellers wore in the cars to save their coats a dusting. I wore mine, at first, because it looked better than the coat it covered, and last, because two coats were warmer than one, though one was thin and dirty. I never wear my best coat on a journey, though perchance I could show a certificate to prove that I have a more costly one, at least, at home, if that were all that a gentleman required. It is not wise for a traveller to go dressed. I should no more think of it than of putting on a clean dicky and blacking my shoes to go a fishing; as if you were going out to dine, when, in fact, the genuine traveller is going out to work hard, and fare harder to eat a crust by the way-side whenever he can get it. Honest travelling is about as dirty work as you can do, and a man needs a pair of overalls for it. As for blacking my shoes in such a case, I should as soon think of blacking my face. I carry a piece of tallow to preserve the leather, and keep out the water; that's all; and many an officious shoe-black, who carried off my shoes when I was slumbering, mistaking me for a gentleman, has had occasion to repent it before he produced a gloss on them. My pack, in fact, was home-made, for I keep a short list of those articles which, from frequent experience, I have found indispensable to the foot traveller; and when I am about to start, I have only to consult that, to be sure that nothing is omitted, and, what is more important, nothing superfluous inserted. Most of my fellow-travellers carried carpet-bags, or valises. Sometimes one had two or three ponderous yellow valises in his clutch, at each pitch of the cars, as if we were going to have another rush for seats; and when there was a rush in earnest, and there were not a few, I would see my man in the crowd, with two or three affectionate lusty fellows along each side of his arm, between his shoulder and his valises, which last held them tight to his back, like the nut on the end of a screw. could not help asking in my mind-what so great cause for showing Canada to those valises, when perhaps your very nieces had to stay at home for want of an escort? I should have liked to be present when the custom-house officer came aboard of him, and asked him to declare upon his honor if he had any thing but wearing apparel in them. Even the elephant car I ries but a small trunk on his journeys. The perfection of travelling is to travel without baggage. After considerable reflection and experience, I have concluded, that the best bag for the foot traveller is made with a handkerchief, or, if he study appearances, a piece of stiff brown paper, well tied up, with a fresh piece within to put outside when the first is torn. That is good for both town and country, and none will know but you are carrying home the silk for a new gown for your wife, when it may be a dirty shirt. A bundle which you can carry literally under your arm, and which will shrink and swell with its contents. I never found the carpet-bag of equal capacity, which was not a bundle of itself. We styled ourselves the knights of the umbrella and the bundle; for wherever we went, whether to Notre Dame or Mount Royal, or the Champ-de-Mars, to the Town Major's or the Bishop's Palace, to the Citadel, with a bare-legged Highlander for our escort, or to the Plains of Abraham, to dinner or to bed, the umbrella and the bundle went with us; for we wished to be ready to digress at any moment. We made it our home nowhere in particular, but everywhere where our umbrella and bundle were. It would have been an amusing circumstance, if the Mayor of one of those cities had politely inquired where we were staying. We could only have answered, that we were staying with his honor for the time being. I was amused when, after our return, some green ones inquired if we found it easy to get accommodated; as if we went abroad to get accommodated, when we can get that at home. great broad-brimmed hats and flowing dresses, than the men and boys. We afterward saw them doing various other kinds of work; indeed, I thought that we saw more women at work out of doors than men. On our return, we observed in this town a girl with Indian boots, nearly two feet high, taking the harness off a dog. The purity and transparency of the atmosphere were wonderful. When we had been walking an hour, we were surprised, on turning round, to see how near the city, with its glittering tin roofs, still looked. A village ten miles off did not appear to be more than three or four. I was convinced that you could see objects distinctly there much farther than here. It is true, the villages are of a dazzling white, but the dazzle is to be referred, perhaps, to the transparency of the atmosphere, as much as to the whitewash. We were now fairly in the village of Beauport, though there was still but one road, the houses stood close upon this, without any front-yards, and at any angle with it, as if they had dropped down, being set with more reference to the road which the sun travels. It being about sundown, and the Falls not far off, we began to look round for a lodging, for we preferred to put up at a private house, that we might see more of the inhabitants. We inquired first at the most promising looking houses, if indeed any were promising. When we knocked, they shouted some French word for come in, perhaps entrez, and we asked for a lodging in English; but we found, unexpectedly, that they spoke French only. Then we went along and tried another house, being gene rally saluted by a rush of two or three little curs, which readily distinguished a foreigner, and which we were prepared now to hear bark in French. Our first question would be, Parlez-vous Anglais? but the invariable answer was, Non, monsieur; and we soon found that the inhabitants were exclusively French Canadians, and nobody spoke English at all, any more than in France; that, in fact, we were in a foreign country, where the inhabitants uttered not one familiar sound to us. Then we tried by turns to talk French with them, in which we succeeded sometimes pretty well, but for the most part, pretty ill. Pouvez-vous nous donner un lit cette nuit? we would ask, and then they would answer with French volubility, so that we could catch only a word here and there. We could understand the women and children generally better than the men, and they us; and thus, after a while, we would learn that they had no more beds than they used. (To be continued.) We met with many charettes, bringing wood and stone to the city. The most ordinary-looking horses travelled faster than ours, or, perhaps they were ordinary-looking, because, as I am told, the Canadians do not use the.curry-comb. Moreover, it is said, that on the approach of winter, their horses acquire an increased quantity of hair, to protect them from the cold. If this be true, some of our horses would make you think winter were approaching, even in mid-summer. We soon began to see women and girls at work in the fields, digging potatoes alone, or bundling up the grain which the men cut. They appeared in rude health, with a great deal of color in their cheeks, and, if their occupation had made them coarse, it impressed me as better in its effects than making shirts at fourpence a piece, or doing nothing at all; unless it be chewing slate pencils, with still smaller results. They were much more agreeable objects, with their A GLANCE AT HAVANA. HE day is breaking, and we THE Lagida R are in the Gulf of Mexico, with the Moro Castle and Lighthouse looming through the ruddy dimness of the dawn, and casting its heavy, irregular shadow upon the deep blue waters which lie between us and it. There is not a breath of air. Not a ray of sunlight has gilded even the tops of those low, heavily undulating hills which bound the horizon landward, and which are all that we see of Cuba, and yet the dewy chillness with which the northern Aurora shivers across the sky is not here. Already the air is dry and warm, and sultriness sinks heavily upon us. In nautical phrase, we made the Moro light last evening about nine o'clock; but since then we have been "laying off and on "with just enough steam up to keep the paddles lazily plashing through the placid water, and steerage way upon the steamer; for the port is closed between sundown and sunrise; and any vessel, Spanish or foreign, which should attempt the passage of that narrow inlet which runs up between the Moro and that little low fort with the round towers, would be fired upon by the sentinel who did not wish to occupy a very small apartment on the lowest floor of one of those buildings. Atares We approach the ramparts; and while we are yet within their shadow there is a sudden lightening behind them; and all at once, the sun, in full glory, blazes upon us. The Spanish flag appears as if by magic upon one staff on the castle walls, and immediately afterward, from one of three others grouped together at a little distance, float signals which tell the Habaneros that an American steamer is off the harbor. The revolution of our paddles is quickened, our bows are turned towards the little inlet, and as we come abreast of the light-house we see that a small boat issues from its shadow to meet us. It contains our pilot. We stop to take him on board, for he is not so quick and so wide awake as the last man who left our deck when we were in sight of He Sandy Hook, and does not care to board us while we are under way. He ascends the side with gravity, and as he passes deliberately up to the wheel-house gives us time to remark that he is a solemn looking Spaniard, with close cut gray hair, and face shaved as clean as if he had just come from the hands of the factotum of Seville. He wears a low-crowned jipijapa hat, which we call a Panama, the rim of which is so narrow and so much curled, that it presents to our Northern eyes a ludicrous contrast to his solemn visage and ponderous manner. stands with serious aspect in the wheelhouse, not deigning to touch the wheel, and directs the steersman with a grave and peremptory motion of the hand, sometimes accompanied by a sonorous word. He may truly be at his ease, for his task is a sinecure. The entrance to the harbor of Havana is the plainest possible sailing; and were it an American or an English port, the offer to pilot a vessel into it would be regarded as a patent swindle. But a corps of pilots has been established by the Spanish government, and a neglect to employ one is sure to be We yield to custom, and use the corrupt form Havana, instead of the correct, "Habana." The substitution of a for b is common with the uneducated Spaniards themselves, and is one of those degradations of language which are the tombstones of the vigor which has died out of a nation. Thus the modern Greeks say veta for the beta, and thelta (th as in this) for the delta of their ancestors of Marathon and Thermopyla. VOL. I.-13 resented as a slight offered to the authorities. The Captain of the Port, an officer of dignity and influence, has absolute power over every vessel which enters it; which he exerts even to the assigning of a place where she shall lie at anchor. The vessel, therefore, which should enter the harbor unpiloted would be pretty sure to find herself ordered into the most inconvenient position which his ingneuity could possibly discover. If a steamer, for instance, she would be placed a mile away from the coal yards, which are all in one spot, and would be put to great expense in procuring the necessary fuel. Hence the superfluous services of a pilot are always accepted from motives of interest and economy. The Moro, of which we have heard so much, towers above us upon a bluff, rocky promontory. It is a large work, of which we can but see two sides; one facing the Gulf, and one the narrow en trance to the harbor; and at the angle of these stands the light-house. The castle is built of the straw-colored, calcareous atone, which abounds upon the island, and its sunny color somewhat softens the frown with which it looks down from its precipitous post. The light-house, which shoots up fifty or sixty feet above the ramparts, is built of the same material, and much after the model of the Eddystone. The light, which told us last night that we were near our haven, is one of the best in the world. It is a revolver, and in a clear night can be seen from the maintopmast head of a vessel thirty miles at sea. It was built not many years ago by a Frenchman, and is served by Frenchmen; for, as we shall have occasion to notice hereafter, Spaniards have not the mechanical skill to master such a mystery as the working, much more the contrivance and erection of even so simple a machine as a revolving light. ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOR OF HAVANA WITH THE MORO AND PUNTA CASTLES. The position of the castle gives it absolute control of the passage to the harbor, which we now discover is but a few hundred yards wide, while, from the walls which look towards the Gulf, a strong arm could throw a stone into water too deep for anchorage. A gale of wind dashes huge ocean waves against the rocky base of the fort, flinging the spray up to the lantern of the light-house; yet so completely is the harbor locked within the land, that even at such times but a gentle rolling swell is felt within a cable's length of the entrance. Directly op posite the Moro is the small fort which attracted our eye when we first looked landward. It is the Punta (Castillo Punta, or Castle on the Point), which is only less famous in Cuban annals than the Moro. Indeed in antiquity and the association of Spain's better days, it possesses much greater interest than its more powerful neighbor. It is the second fortress built by the Spaniards at Havana; and at the time of its construction controlled the harbor, as the Moro does now. It is, of course, built upon principles which were long ago exploded as completely as |