they design for the saddle, the natives make it their grand object to inure them to a short easy amble, at which many of them advance with almost incredible swiftness. As there are no inns on the island, the traveller must also provide himself with a tent, which is the more necessary on account of the deserts he has sometimes to traverse, and even at the farms he will prefer it to the best accommodations that may be offered him. A good experienced Fylgimadr, or guide, is the next requisite, and, if the cavalcade be large, a Lestamadr to take care of the horses and baggage is equally necessary. Travelling chests must also be procured, together with provisions, and small money, with which to reward any trivial services that may be shewn by the peasants. For those who penetrate into the interior, a compass is indispensable, as they are apt to get bewildered in snowy or foggy weather; and if they do not keep in the proper direction, may easily wander into deserts, where both themselves and their horses must perish with hunger.

On the 24th, which was the Lord's day, I attended worship in the Cathedral. The service was begun by the Archdeacon, who had come to town on purpose to place a new minister. After finishing the liturgical service at the altar, he ascended the pulpit and pronounced a short prayer, and then read the gospel for the day, on which he also founded his discourse. As it was the first Icelandic sermon I had ever heard, it was not to be expected I should understand every

word. Indeed, there were almost whole sentences, in which, to borrow the language of the Apostle, we were barbarians to one another; yet, having gained some knowledge of the Icelandic beforehand, and being acquainted with its kindred dialects, the Swedish and Danish, I could easily collect the scope and substance of his discourse, and, from its general tenor, do not hesitate to pronounce it strictly evangelical. Towards the close, he gave a summary view of the means by which the gospel has been propagated, from the time it began to be spoken by the Lord Jesus and his Apostles, down to the present day; and, by a noble prosopopoeia, reminded Iceland of the rich share she had enjoyed of this blessing, and the responsibility she lay under for the use of her mercies. In particular, he called the attention of the inhabitants of Reykiavik to the privileges which had been bestowed upon them in this respect; but added, that it was a lamentable but notorious fact, that their degeneracy seemed to keep pace with the excellence of the ministers that were sent to labour among them. He then proceeded to place the minister, which he did by simply stating his presentation by the King of Denmark, and exhorting both him and the congregation to the discharge of the duties they mutually owed each other. After sermon, the Rev. Arne Helgason, who had been presented to the living, went to the altar, and three females stepped forward and knelt, in order to receive the sacrament. The celebration of this

rite commenced by the clergyman's chanting the Lord's prayer, and the words of the institution; after which, the choristers sung a sacramental hymn, and the communicants were served at the same time with the elements. Several short prayers were then repeated, to which responses were given by the choristers; and the service concluded with the singing of a psalm, and the enunciation of the levitical benediction.

The worship was well attended, and would have had a most solemn effect, had it not been for the crying of young children, who were allowed to remain, to the great annoyance of the congregation.

CHAP. II.

Leave Reykiavik for the North-Mode of Travelling-Mossfell Church-Skálabrecka-Mode of Salutation in Iceland - Hospitality-Description of Icelandic Tents-Dreadful Fissure of Almannagiá-Thingvalla Church-Seat of the Ancient Court of Justice-Tract of Lava -Fissure of Hrafnagiá-Hot Springs of Laugarvalla-The Geysers-Haukadal-Ari the Learned-Remarkable instance of Intelligence in a Girl-White River-White River LakeDesert-Ice Mountains-Valley of Eyafiord -Groupe of Icelanders reading the New Testament-Factory of Akureyri-Want of Bibles, and anxiety to obtain them—Visit to the Sheriff at Kiarne-Female Library--Domestic Worship.

Ar an early hour on the morning of the 26th of July, I began to pack up my baggage, and make the final preparations for my departure to the north. The horses being caught, my servant proceeded to load them, which was accomplished in the following manner. Large square pieces of a thin fibrous turf were laid on the horses backs, above which was placed a kind of

wooden saddle, called, in Icelandic, klif beri, that served the double purpose of keeping the turf together, and supporting the baggage, which was suspended on two wooden pegs, fixed one on each side of the saddle. The whole was fastened by means of two leathern thongs that went round the belly of the horse. Having partaken of an excellent breakfast at the Sysselmand's, we sent the baggage on before us; and, bidding adieu to our friends in Reykiavik, we set off about twelve o'clock, accompanied by Mr. Edmund Hodgson, a gentleman from England, and Mr. Vidalin, one of the Bishop's sons, who intended to proceed with us as far as the Geysers. Mr. Knudsen also conducted us to the Laxá, or Salmon River, which falls into

the bay about four miles to the east of Reykiavik, and abounds in the excellent species of fish from which it derives its name. A little farther on, we fell in with our baggage, and could not help smiling at the striking resemblance our whole company bore to a band of tinkers. However, I was soon reconciled to the mode of travelling, on discovering that it was quite oriental, and almost fancied myself in the midst of an Arabian caravan. In fact, there exist so many coincidencies between the natural appearances of this island, together with the manners

This river is otherwise called the Hellarâ, or Cavernous River, from the numerous holes in the lava that forms its bed.