Mr. Weld says that he has sometimes imagined | that the sun set with more splendour at Killarney than in other parts of the country; indeed, he adds, there can be no doubt that the diversity of light and colours in the sky is augmented by the vast collections of clouds which are attracted by the mountains as they come from the Atlantic,

Or whirled tempestuous by the gusty wind, Or silent borne along, heavy and slow, With the big stores of steaming ocean charged. These clouds, he says, not only occasion the most grand and beautiful effects at the approach of evening, but "exhibit infinite vicissitudes of light and shade throughout the day, altering every hour the face of the landscape." An older writer expresses a similar opinion, stating that the effect of the view is, in his opinion, much heightened by the hourly revolutions in the face of the heavens.

The vast volumes of clouds which are rolled together from the Atlantic and rest on the summits of the mountains, clothe them with majesty: the different masses of light and shade traversing the lakes in succession, as the shifting bodies above float across them, exhibit all the varieties of night and day almost at the same instant: the mists interposing their dull yet transparent coverings to the view, raise new desires of a fallen and clearer prospect: and the wandering vapours flitting from cliff to cliff, as if in search of the clouds from which they have been separated, amuse the eye with their varieties and irregular motions.

But every white will have its black." The clouds and mists at Killarney, like clouds and mists elsewhere, bring with them something more than majesty to the prospect; and occasion other "vicissitudes" than those of light and shade in the face of the landscape. The west of Ireland is remarkable for its rains; and certainly in no part of it is that feature of the climate so prominently developed as at Killarney. Hence arises a serious drawback upon its attractions; or as the writer last quoted says,

After all this happy spot labours under one disadvantage, and one, too, which I am the more averse to mention, since so celebrated a writer as Dr. Johnson has thought it sufficient in the case of Loch Lomond, to counterbalance so many natural beauties; and this is no other than the immense rains; which fall here more abundantly, and that even in the best seasons for visiting the lake, than in all other parts of the kingdom.

Upon this account a lengthened residence at Killarney is necessary to a full enjoyment of its beauties. The space assigned for the regular performance of the tour is three days, though, to accommodate all classes, a mode has been devised of " doing it" in two, or even in one day. But, for the ordinary traveller to expect three consecutive fine days under the sky of Killarney, would be scarcely more reasonable than asking for the ocean in the deserts of Africa. Yet to this very drawback upon the attractions of Killarney, we trace those attractions themselves; and instead of complaining, we shall do well to recollect that the limitations here set to our pleasures are necessary to our being pleased at all, that what we at first call a disadvantage is the spring and source of all we admire,—

That the Hyades are here the handmaids of Flora; for that without their perpetual effusions of rain we complain of, the rocks must resign their vegetable inhabitant, the rivers mourn their exhausted urns, and the cascades no longer resound in the dull ear of memory; that the living lake itself must dwindle into an inconsiderable pool, and the mountains stripped of their honours become a dreary waste, the abode of gloom and barrenness.

We have said that the mountains of Glena and Tomies are seated upon the western bank of the Lower Lake. Beyond them, still further to the westward, is a range of other mountains which runs to

wards the Atlantic, in a direction at right angles to theirs, or in such a manner that if it ran towards the east instead of towards the west, it would cut the lake in half. This range bears the name of Macgillicuddy's Reeks, the appellation of Macgillicuddy being derived, according to the common account, from an old family once flourishing in these parts, and that of Reeks being applied to the mountains because of their sharp jagged peaks. One of these peaks called Carran Tual, or Gheraun Tual, (from some resemblance in it to an "inverted sickle,") is the loftiest summit of all Ireland, measuring 3394 feet.

As the Reeks lie behind the mountains which bound the western bank of the Lower Lake, they are, of course, not to be seen from every point of view; if the spectator be too close they are hidden. From the hills upon the opposite or eastern side of the lake they appear to advantage, towering above the heads of Glena and Tomies. But the best view of them is obtained from the hills upon the northern border of the lake; and this is the view which is represented in our engraving, the spectator being placed on the hill of Aghadoe, close to the ruins of the ancient cathedral of that name. The extensive prospect which this height commands is constantly recommended to the tourist; and certainly it is one of the most remarkable which he will enjoy at Killarney.

From hence (says Smith, the historian of Kerry), is to be seen one of the most delicious landscapes in Ireland, and perhaps few countries in Europe afford better; but this is such a masterpiece, that even the Poussins, Salvator Rosa, or the most eminent painter in that way, might here furnish himself with sufficient matter, not only to form one but several entertaining prospects. From this eminence a survey may be taken of the greatest part of this beautiful lake, and likewise of that stupendous amphitheatre of mountains which are raised along the opposite shores. Towards the south-east stands the mountain called Mangerton, whose feet the lake washes, and whose summit is generally lost in the clouds, it being justly esteemed one of the highest mountains in Ireland. More towards the centre of the lake is a high mole, called Turk, whose sides, down to the verge of the water, are beautifully clothed with groves of various kinds of trees. One part of this hill slopes away like a promontory terminating in the lake, forming one side of a canal, which is a passage into the Upper Lake, as doth the front of another mountain, called Glena, the other side of this strait, which is adorned also with forest trees. As a fine contrast to this verdure, at the being only naked rocks of a vast height. The grandeur backs of these mountains stand others shaped into pyramids, and magnificence of these mountains, not only entertain and surprise the spectator, but he must be also agreeably amused in contemplating the infinite variety of beautiful colouring they afford. For in this part may be seen the gayest verdure, blended with scarlet fruit and snowy blossoms, well known properties of the Arbutus; and in other places the most elegant variety of brown and yellow tints, caused by other kinds of trees and shrubs, appears; all these are intermixed with rock-work, and, to soften the whole, a deep, smooth, and noble basin of water extends itself beneath this scenery; but to give the reader an adequate idea of this place would require the pencil of some excellent painter rather than the pen of any prose writer.

To the west of Glena stands the lofty peak called Tomish, variegated half-way to its top with a waving forest, and down whose sides, especially after rains, run very considerable cataracts into the Great Lake. There are many other hills still running more west, as far as the eye can reach, for many miles; the nearest, and most surprising for their loftiness, are the Reeks, already mentioned, whose tops resemble so many pinnacles, or rather spires, lost in the clouds.

Carran Tual being the highest mountain in Ireland, * When Dr. Smith wrote, Mangerton was generally considered the highest mountain in Ireland, although it is nearly nine hundred feet lower than its close neighbour Carran Tual;-a fact which shows most strikingly how fallacious a guide is the appearance of mountains in estimating even their comparative height.

the ascent to its summit forms a notable exploit with the more active and adventurous of the visiters to Killarney. The excursion, though a fatiguing one, is unattended with danger; and it affords many fine mountain scenes which, even without the extensive prospect from the summit, would be amply sufficient to reward the traveller for the toil of the ascent. Even the lower Reeks are well worth the labour of a visit; Mr. Weld ascended one of them, which the ignorance of his guides led him to mistake for Carran Tual, and he described the scenery which he beheld as sublime in the extreme. The party proceeded first to Dunloh Gap *, and having advanced into it to the distance of half a mile, began to ascend the mountain on their right. It proved extremely difficult of access, and in many parts so steep, that, without the aid of the sapling oaks which spring from their fissures, it would have been impossible to scale the rocks. On the summit of this mountain they found an extensive tract of ground, less encumbered with rocks than the valley below, and covered, as far as the eye could see, with heath and coarse grass, on which innumerable herds of cattle were fed. Beyond it appeared another mountain extremely rugged, which they reached at the end of two hours. The ascent was not steep; but it was laborious and tedious, owing to the immense heaps of loose stones in some places, and in others deep rents, which could not be passed without the utmost caution. Along this part of the route, the only animals they observed were eagles, of which numbers hovered above them as if alarmed at the invasion of their lofty solitudes : at one moment they counted no less than twelve of them within gun-shot.

its highest peak, and directing their steps towards the Upper Lake, reached a cottage at which they rested.

On recounting the adventures of the day, and boasting of having been on the highest ground in Ireland, an old gray-headed man who stood by expressed some doubt of the fact; adding that if we had really been on the most lofty point of the Reeks, it would have been impossible for us to have returned before night. We appealed to our guides, who, jealous of their reputation, of course confirmed our story; to put this matter beyond doubt, however, the old man requested us to come to the door and point out the mountain we had ascended. The Reeks rose in full view before the cottage, and we could easily trace our route to the most lofty peak. This was sufficient to confirm his first supposition. Gheraun-tuel, he told us, was much higher than any of the other points, and was neither visible from the valley in which we stood, nor from any part of the lake of Killarney. It was to no purpose that the guides maintained the contrary, the evidence of our own senses had already impeached their knowledge, and their ignorance of the country was now proved by the concurrent testimony of several mountaineers. The difficulty of ascending Gheraun-tuel was represented to us as very great, and no stranger, we were told, had ever attempted it. This was but an additional incentive to undertaking the enterprise; and the old man having offered his son as a guide, the next day but one was appointed for the expedition.

There are two routes by which the ascent of Carran Tual is now made. By one of them the traveller proceeds along the northern shore of the Lower Lake to Dunloh Castle, and keeps a straight course beyond it in the same direction, after skirting the northern side of the Reeks for some distance, until he arrives at that part of their base above which towers the object of his search. The other route is by the Upper Lake, whence he enters a valley which leads him to a similar point on the opposite or southern

The craggy tops of the Reeks appeared on reach-side of the Reeks. ing the summit of this latter mountain; and after walking for about an hour over a rugged way, nearly similar to that which they had already traversed, they gained one of the loftiest pinnacles, which their guides told them was Carran Tual.

It is scarcely possible (says Mr. Weld), to convey an idea of the sublime view which was now unfolded to our eyes. On each side lay a vast precipice, beyond which arose other immense mountains: still further on we saw the Atlantic Ocean bounding the horizon for a great distance; and in the opposite direction a wide expanse of the inland country, watered by innumerable rivers and lakes, among which that of Killarney was only conspicuous for its superior extent. One of the peaks before us seemed to be considerably more lofty than that which we had ascended; but the guides persisted in assuring us that the appearance was deceptive; and that if from any third station we could compare its elevation with that of the point on which we then stood, the superior height of the latter would be obvious. The intervening precipices were impassable; as it was out of our power, therefore, to make the trial, we were satisfied to receive this intelligence as conviction; and, perhaps, none of us, after so much fatigue, were willing to entertain a doubt of having attained the object of our laborious undertaking. The mountain here described resembles in shape a wedge; at the summit it presented a long craggy ridge, so narrow, that whilst they stood upon it we could look into the depths of the precipices at either side, or drop pebbles into them from each hand at the same moment. Large masses of rock are often detached from the ridge, through the incessant action of mists and vapours prevailing in these high regions, and especially after the snow begins to dissolve. They roll down the mountain with a loud roar, but fortunately there are no dwellings which they can reach in their descent.

The party descended the mountain by the opposite side, under the full impression that they had scaled

For an account of this remarkable defile, see Saturday Magazine, Vol. XII. p. 83

The valley through which the latter route conducts him bears the name of Comme Duff, or the Black Valley; it is watered by a chain of small lakes and a river connecting them together. This valley bears some resemblance to the Gap of Dunloh; but the scenery is much tamer, and is rather to be admired for the delightful verdure of the peaceful and retired meads than for the boldness of the rocks, or the height and abruptness of the impending precipices. After passing into another valley, which branches off from this, and proceeding for a considerable distance, he begins to climb a mountain, which, though steep, is not difficult of ascent; on the summit is a long plain, which forms the body, as it were, of the mountain mass out of which the Reeks rise. At the end of this plain, which is covered with coarse grass, is seen the conical head of Carran Tual. Advancing towards it the traveller has to proceed four or five miles before it discloses itself fully to his view; at length he reaches the brink of a precipice, when a complete view of it opens. Mr. Weld thus describes its appearance:

It rose with great regularity in the form of a cone, and to appearance stood quite insulated except on the nearest side, where it was connected with the mountain on which we stood by a sort of spur, forming an isthmus, and bearing a resemblance, though on a scale of such great magnitude, to the artificial approach to an old castle. At the height from which we viewed it, this pass did not seem to be wider than might be sufficient for a single carriage; and though on descending we found it at least sixty feet broad, yet the immense depth and great abruptness of the precipices at each side so imposed on the senses, that we could scarcely persuade ourselves of being in perfect safety in its very centre. Here, however, we halted at once to admire the

sublimity of the scene, and to take some refreshment and repose. From this place to the summit the distance did not appear to be very great, as the slope, owing to our contiguity to the mountain, was fore-shortened; but though we advanced with ardour and the way, except being very

The stone in question has a projecting part, wrought at each end, of the form shown in the annexed figure; this projection is received into a corresponding cavity, cut in the The pointer is used for chipping off the principal rough-end of the stone supported by the column, and the joint is nesses on the face and edges, and for working the whole face over to bring it level, the workman trying his work by applying a straight-edge occasionally to it. When the front and edges are made true, the face is sometimes tooled over, so as to leave regular furrows in it, according to certain forms, by which the different kinds of work are distinguished. But this practice is going out of use, now that soft free-stone is so much employed in building. In old edifices, such as St. Paul's, Whitehall, &c., &c., the stone will be found to be wrought on its face in the manner alluded to.