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contained the body of Canute. It was remarkably fresh, had a wreath, or circlet, round the head, and several other ornaments, such as gold and silver bands. On his finger was a ring, in which was set a remarkably fine stone; and in one of his hands was a silver penny.

Anglo-Norman Long Hair.

In 1104, when Henry I. was in Normandy, a prelate, named Serlo, preached so eloquently against the fashion of wearing long hair, that the monarch and his courtiers were moved to tears; and, taking advantage of the impression he had produced, the enthusiastic prelate whipped a pair of scissors out of his sleeves, and cropped the whole congregation!

This was followed up by a royal edict prohibiting the wearing of long hair; but in the next reign, that of Stephen, the old fashion was revived, when, in 1139, it received a sudden check from an exceedingly trifling circumstance. A young soldier, whose chief pride lay in the beauty of his locks, which hung down almost to his knees, dreamed one night that a person came to him and strangled him with his own luxuriant ring

upon

lets. This dream had such an effect him, that he forthwith trimmed them to a rational length. His companions followed his example, and superstition spreading the alarm, cropping became again the order of the day. But this reformation, adds the historian, was of very short duration; scarcely had a year elapsed before the people returned to their former follies, and such especially as would be thought courtiers permitted their hair to grow to such a shameful length, that they resembled women rather than men; those whom nature had denied abundance of hair supplying the deficiency by artificial means. Wigs, therefore, may date in Eng land from the time of Stephen; and should signs to shops become again the fashion, our perruquiers are bound in gratitude to distinguish theirs by three Sagittarii, the device assumed by that monarch, according to tra dition, in consequence of his having ascended the throne while the sun was in Sagittarius.

Edward I.

There is no monumental effigy of Edward; but on opening his tomb in Westminster Abbey, A.D. 1774, his corpse was discovered arrayed in a dalmatica or tunic of red silk damask, and a mantle of crimson satin fastened on the shoulder with a gilt buckle, or clasp, four inches in length, and decorated with imitative gems and pearls. The sceptre was in his hand, and a stole was crossed over his breast of rich white tissue, studded with gilt quatrefoils in philagree-work, and em broidered with pearls in the shape of what are called true lovers' knots. The gloves, it is presumed, had perished, for the ornaments belonging to the backs of them were found

lying on the hands. The body, from the knees downwards, was wrapped in a piece of cloth of gold, which was not removed. The regal ornaments were all of metal gilt, and the stones and pearls false; a piece of economy unusual at this period.

Tight Lacing.

The injurious practice of tight lacing we have discovered in existence during the reign of Rufus or Henry I.; and, in a MS. copy of the "Lay of Syr Launfal," written about the year 1300, we have the following description of two damsels, whom the knight unexpectedly meets in a forest :

"Their kirtles were of Inde sendel,
Y-laced small, jolyf, and well ;

There might none gayer go;
Their mantels were of green velvet,
Y-bordered with gold right well y-sette,
Y-pellured with gris and gros;
Their heads were dight well withal,
Everich had on a jolyf coronal,

With sixty gems and mo.

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Commonalty of Edward I.

The dress of the commonalty remains as in the last century, or, indeed, as from the time of the Conquest, with the addition of the bliaus, or blouse (the smock-frock of the present day), made generally of canvass or fustian, and worn by both sexes. Russet, birrus, or burreau, cordetum, and sarcilis, are also quoted by the indefatigable Strutt, as coarse woollen cloths used for the garments of the lower orders during the thirteenth century. Cowls, with points or tails to them, are worn more than caps, and the blacksmith has already his brown leathern apron, with the square bib to it, as worn by his brother craftsmen to this hour.

Lawyers' Robes.

Legal personages begin now (Edward II.) to be distinguished by their habits. Lawyers were originally priests, and, of course, wore the tonsure; but when the clergy were forbidden to intermeddle with secular affairs, the lay lawyers continued the practice of shaving the head, and wore the coif for distinction-sake. It was at first made of linen, and afterwards of white silk. The sergeantat-law's habit anciently was a long priest-like robe, lined with fur, and a white linen coif. Judges wear caps and capes of fur.

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mother, whose cognizance was a white hind. Rymer mentions, that in the ninth year of his reign, Richard pawned certain jewels, "à la guyse de cerfs blancs;" and in the wardrobe accounts of his twenty-second year, is an entry of a belt and sheath of a sword of red velvet, embroidered with white harts, crowned, and with rosemary branches. An ancient author, quoted by Holingshed (sub anno 1399), says, "that amongst the few

and in his "Troylus and Creseyde," he de- friends that attended this unfortunate prince

scribes his heroine

"In widowe's habit large of samite brown ;"

and in another place says,

"Creyseyde was in widowe's habit blacke;" and in another, when separating from Troylus, he makes her say

"my clothes evereh one Shall blacke ben in tolequyn (token) herte swete, That I am as oute of this worlde agone,”. Froissart tells us, that the Earl of Foix, on hearing of the death of his son Gaston, sent for his barber, and was close shaved, and clothed himself and all his household in black. At the funeral of the Earl of Flanders, he says, all the nobles and attendants wore black gowns; and on the death of John, King of France, the King of Cyprus clothed himself in black mourning, by which distinction, it would seem, that some other colours were occasionally worn; such as the "samite brown" of Chaucer's "Creseyde." The figures on the tomb of Sir Roger de Kerdeston, who died A.D. 1337, represent the relations of the deceased knight, and wear their own coloured clothes under the mourning cloak.

Large Sleeves.

The tight sleeves of the preceding reign were now (Richard II.) out of fashion, and the Monk of Evesham speaks of the deep wide sleeves, commonly called pokys, shaped like a bagpipe, and worn indifferently by servants as well as masters. They were denominated, he says, the devil's receptacles, for whatever could be stolen was popped into them. Some were so long and so wide, that they reached to the feet, others to the knees, and were full of slits. As the servants were bringing up pottage, sauces, &c., their sleeves "would go into them, and have the first taste;" and all that they could procure was meant to clothe their uncurable carcasses with those pokys or sleeves, while the rest of their habit was short.

The White Hart.

The badge of the white hart was assumed by Richard II., and worn by all his courtiers and adherents, both male and female, either embroidered on their dresses, or suspended by chains or collars round their necks. This device seems to have been derived from his

after his capture by the Earl of Northumber land, was Jenico D'Artois, a Gascoine, that still wore the cognizance, or device, of his master, King Richard, that is to saye, a white hart, and would not put it from him neither for persuasion nor threats; by reason whereof, when the Duke of Hereford understood it, he caused him to be committed to prison within the Castle of Chester. This man was the last (as saith mine author) which bare that device, and showed well thereby his constant heart towards his master." The white hart still remains, painted of a colossal size, on the wall over the door leading to the east cloister from the south aisle of Westminster Abbey. It is generally represented crowned, collared, and chained, and couchant under a tree.

Collar of SS.

A decoration appeared in the reign of Henry IV., and is worn by the distinguished of both sexes, the origin of which is differently accounted for. We allude to the collar of SS, or Esses. Camden says it was composed of a repetition of that letter, which was the initial of Sanctus Simo Simplicius, an emi nent Roman lawyer, and that it was particu larly worn by persons of that profession. Other writers contend that it was an addi. tional compliment of Edward III. to the Countess of Salisbury. But its non-appearance till the reign of Henry IV. is a sufficient answer to that supposition. Sir Samuel Meyrick, with much greater probability, sug gests, that we should consider it the initial letter of Henry's motto, "Souveraine," which he had borne while Earl of Derby, and which, as he afterwards became sovereign, appeared auspicious. The initial of a common motto of the middle ages, "Souveniez vous de moy" (Souvenez vous de moi), has also been men tioned as a derivation, and supported by the remark, that a "fleur-de- souvenance," the "forget-me-not," occasionally linked the double SS together; but we incline to the opinion of Sir Samuel Meyrick, and at the same time, we must remark the singularity of the circumstance, that the origin of such popular and celebrated decorations and badges as the feather of the Prince of Wales, the Order of the Garter, and the collar of SS, should be to this day a mystery to the most learned and indefatigable antiquaries.

Choice of a Wife, by Dress. The eldest of two sisters was promised by her father to a young knight, possessed of a large estate. The day was appointed for the gentleman to make his visit, he not having as yet seen either of them, and the ladies were informed of his coming, that they might be prepared to receive him. The affianced bride, who was the handsomest of the two, being desirous to show her elegant shape and slender waist to the best advantage, clothed herself in a cote-hardie, which sat very strait and close upon her, without any lining or facing of fur, though it was in winter, and exceedingly cold. The consequence was, that she appeared pale and miserable, like one perishing with the severity of the weather; while her sister, who, regardless of her shape, had attired herself rationally with thick garments lined with fur, looked warm and healthy, and ruddy as a rose. The young knight was fascinated by her who had the least beauty and the most prudence, and having obtained the father's consent to the change, left the mortified sister to shiver in single blessedness.*

[We have not space at present to travel further in this really entertaining volume. It is profusely embellished with 137 cuts, which are well chosen, and possess very considerable artistical merit.]

* Quoted by Strutt, from a French MS.

The Gatherer.

Book of Sports-In 1617, King James published his famous Book of Sports, by which the populace were tolerated to exercise certain recreations and pastimes on the Sabbath-day, and all parochial incumbents were positively enjoined to read the same in their respective churches, on pain of the King's displeasure. Notwithstanding the license given by this book, the Lord Mayor had the courage to order the King's carriages to be stopped, as they were driving through the city on a Sunday, during the time of divine service. This threw James into a great rage, and vowing that he thought there had been no more kings in England but himself, he directed a warrant to the Lord Mayor, commanding him to let them pass, which the prudent magistrate complied with, saying, "While it was in my power, I did my duty; but that being taken away by a higher power, it is my duty to obey." The answer of the Lord Mayor pleased the King, and the latter returned him his thanks. On the 10th of May, 1643, the Book of Sports was burnt by the common hangman, in Cheapside, in pursuance of an Ordinance of both Houses of Parliament, passed five days before; "all persons having any of the said books in their hands," being "required to deliver them

forthwith," to be burnt according_to_the
order.
P.T. W.

Soulshot.-This was a sum paid for a
soul's requiem among the Romanists. In
the times of the Saxons there was a funeral
duty to be paid, called pecunia sepulchralis
et symbolum anime, and in Saxon soulshot.
Soul's-cheat was a legacy anciently bequeath-
ed at their deaths by our scrupulously pious
ancestors, to the parish priest, to compensate
for any tithes that might have been forgotten
in their lives.
P.T. W.

This

Javanese Rice Pudding.-The people of Java have a method of making puddings of rice which seems to be unknown here. They take a conical earthen pot, which is open at the large end, and perforated all over. they fill about half full with rice, and putting it into a large earthen pot of the same shape, filled with boiling water, the rice in the first pot soon swells, and stops the perforations so as to keep out the water. By this method the rice is brought to a firm consistence, and forms a pudding, which is generally eaten with butter, oily sugar, vinegar, and spices.

lowed out from a single tree, 50 feet long, In some parts of Africa canoes are holand from four to five feet broad; and the patient natives convey such a tree upon rollers from the place of its growth, at the rate of five miles a day!

The state of Louisiana, lately had a lottery in existence called the "French Evangelical Church Lottery."

Chat Moss has disappointed so many adventurers, who calculated on draining and cultivating it, that it may be called Cheat Moss.

Prince Rupert is celebrated in the annals of Liverpool; for, in 1644, he besieged the town for four-and-twenty days. Yet this patriotic philosopher's name is better known in association with the candlesticks at Birmingham, he having invented Prince's Metal.

Silver.-In the museum at Madrid, is a

lump of silver weighing seventy pounds,

which was shivered off an enormous mass by a master miner, who, after dining on it with twelve or thirteen persons, hacked it to pieces and distributed the fragments among his guests.

it is believed that when a gentleman goes to Horrible Error.-In some parts of Africa the other world, he will be respected in proportion only to the number of slaves and dependents he carries with him: so that many lives are sacrificed to make up his retinue.

Printed and published by J. LIMBIRD, 143, Strand, (near Somerset House, London; sold by G. G CHARLES JUGEL, Francfort; and by all NewsBENNIS, 55, Rue Neuve St. Augustin, Paris; men and Booksellers.

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THE LAW LIFE ASSURANCE

OFFICE, FLEET-STREET. IN our description of the New Church of St. Dunstan in the West, we anticipated "improvements in the houses adjoining the church, so as to give an unique architectural character to this portion of the line of Fleetstreet." In general conformity with this object, the handsome structure represented on the opposite page has been erected, from the design and under the superintendence of John Shaw, esq., son of the architect of St. Dunstan's Church. It stands westward of the church, and is intended for the Office of the Law Life Assurance Society.

By turning to our Engraving of the Church, the reader will perceive that the details of the Building just completed, do not correspond with those of the adjoining houses, as anticipated in our illustration. The style adopted in the exterior of the Building may be denominated English, as it prevailed about the time of James I., when Italian architecture was introduced into this country, and grafted on to the Gothic; thus forming a new style, which was adopted for some of the noblest mansions in the kingdom.† Of this style, the architect, in a few notes, with which he has obligingly furnished us, observes, that "it admits of great variety and irregularity, and is particularly applicable to street architecture." In Fleet-street, the architect's object was to unite the style of St. Dunstan's Church with the ordinary character of the street; which, we are disposed to think, could not have been accomplished so well by any other style as by that which Mr. Shaw has adopted. The general effect of the street front is very pleasing: it has the character of strength and boldness; the enrichments are in good taste; and the words, "Established 1823."-"Law Life Assurance," ," "Erected 1834," beneath the first story, in old English capitals, raised in stone, and illuminated with gold, form a quaint and appropriate decoration.

The Building was commenced in July, 1833. It is of Suffolk brick, finished with Portland stone, the window cases being of this handsome material; and the sashes and frames throughout the building are of brass or bronze, upon the principle which has been so effectively introduced at Windsor Castle. The Building contains an office, 30 feet * See Mirror, vol. xx., p. 33. The details of the accompanying description were kindly supplied to us by the architect, John Shaw, Esq., F. S. A. and A. S., the architect of Christ's Hospital; and we hold his notes among the most interesting of our autographic memorials of men of genius. A few weeks subsequently to this communication, we were much concerned to hear of the architect's unexpected death.

The decorations of the building in Fleet-street are, in style, somewhat akin to the front of the house of Mr. Tegg, the publisher, in Cheapside, considered to be one of Sir Christopher Wren's best works in domestic architecture.

by 20 feet; a board-room over of the same dimensions, (with two oriel windows,) handsomely fitted up with wainscot panel; a physician's room, an actuary's room; and seven waiting-rooms; the communication to which is by a stone staircase. The basement is fire-proof, and contains convenient strong rooms for the deposit of deeds; and the building is warmed by hot water in pipes, supplied by Mr. Fowler. The contract for the whole was taken for about 6,7007.; the builders are Messrs. James Bridger and Sons, of Aldgate.

Altogether, we are inclined to consider this structure to be one of the handsomest, as it is the most recent, of additions to the street architecture of our metropolis; and it presents an example of embellishment and good taste, which it would give us pleasure to see followed.

SUBSTITUTE FOR CHLORIDE OF LIME.

Ir a quarter of a pound of black oxide of manganese be put into a cup or basin, and about a tea-spoonful of muriatic acid be poured upon it, there will soon arise sufficient chlorine gas for a large room. It may be necessary to add every day a little acid, and to shake the manganese a little. If too much acid be used, the chlorine will be felt unpleasant. The manganese will not lose its efficacy for a fortnight. As manganese is sold wholesale at ten or twelve shillings the cwt., and is retailed at fourpence a pound, and muriatic acid is sold wholesale for about three-halfpence the pound, in measure, and is retailed at a reasonable rate per ounce by every chemist,-for less than the expense of twopence, and with little or no trouble, a suite of apartments may be kept disinfected for a fortnight. To use an equally efficient amount of chloride of lime would cost fifty times the money, and be very troublesome. W. G. C.

CATHEDRAL MUSIC. (To the Editor.) THE admirers of this, our best national school of composition, cannot fail to regret that so little patronage has been given to English church music by those parties, whose interest, no less than their duty, is concerned in preserving our ecclesiastical corporations inviolate, and in maintaining the laudable customs of their respective establishments with a watchful and jealous care.

The Saturday Magazine for August 30, contains some judicious remarks upon the increased responsibility of those, who in the present day, have the direction of that daily sacrifice of prayer and praise, which is not yet quite banished from our land; and if the editors of our periodical works would occasionally devote a few paragraphs to particular

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