Threatener, but the silver brooks that shine and dimple down their shady dells, soften their grandeur and mingle smiles with their frowns. The entrance of the Castle is denied to strangers, but as the young Count Vivaldi, one of my companions, was acquainted with the Governor, I had permission to pass through its massy Gates. From the Terrace of the Governor's narrow Garden, already shaded by Vine-branches, a most magnificent scene presented itself:

"Hill, Dale, and shady Wood, and sunny Plain,
And liquid lapse of murmuring stream,"

and, added to their soft combinations, the sublime Alps, pile above pile, here gathered together like embattled troops, and there striding one after another like giants that would scale Heaven. Roving over the glorious scene, my eye happened to glance at the grated Window of one of the mouldering Towers, at which appeared the pale haggard face of a hopeless Prisoner, whose pensive looks were fixed on me and my companions; need I say that my transports all vanished at the sight? Alas! thought I, how different this scene to him! to me it appears like Paradise to Adam: he must consider it as Satan did that blessed abode, with eyes of anguish and despair.

How do all the objects of this world take their colouring from Circumstances! and how dark a veil does Captivity spread over the richest Scenes of Nature! It was natural to enquire for what

Crime the poor Prisoner was confined to this hopeless Dungeon, where the eye is continually tantalized by beauties it can never enjoy, and by the cheerful haunts of men with which it never shall mingle. The Governor said his name was Lavin, that he was of a good family in Piedmont, that his uncommon talents and erudition had gained him the appointment of Secretary to the Count of Storbilia, an eminent Nobleman of Turin, at the early age of eighteen. The Count's vices had reduced his finances, and his specious manners had obtained boundless influence over the mind of young Lavin, whom he seduced to join him in Forgeries, which being discovered, he was doomed to suffer with his Master imprisonment for life in these gloomy Towers. Lavin's youth and inexperience, and the perfect submission he was instructed to pay to his master's commands, ought to have been considered, and to have made his Punishment less severe than that of his far more culpable corruptor. But though the Body may be imprisoned in a narrow cell, the active Spirit will often supply unsuspected alleviations. Long after his imprisonment, poor Lavin was denied the use of pen and ink, but he found means with the end of Straws drawn from his hard Bed, to adorn the white walls of his Cell with the most picturesque Drawings, and to write beautiful Compositions in fair and legible characters. He has since found means often to procure those little indulgences, and is continually producing with them something

or other curiously inventive. But alas! the two last years of his Twenty-two of Imprisonment a complication of diseases have tortured his body, and weakened the vigour of his intellects. The Governor shewed us the copy of a letter which this ingenious Unfortunate had lately addressed to the Governor of Savoy, intreating his interest with the king for his removal to Turin, where he might have medical advice and breathe his native air.

Nothing could be more simple and energetic than this letter, but 'tis said this poor boon will be refused him!

THE Dress of the Peasants in these mountains is as singular as their situation: there has been, time immemorial, a pragmatic rule observed amongst them, which forbids the slightest alteration or difference from each other in their garb. I was present at one of their great Jours de Fête, and saw at least six hundred Peasants assembled, in and about a little rustic Church, built on a pleasant hillock between two rugged rocks. They were in their Holiday clothes, all precisely the same, as to materials, colours, and form; those of the Men were not very remarkable, one of the Women's I shall describe to you. Upon her head a Cap of

Red Cloth, exactly the form of a child's skull cap, and bordered with a tawdry Green and Gilded Ribbon; her Hair that shone with Oil, was combed straight back, and was curled up under her cap before and behind in tight tresses, about the size of a common sausage; then formed into circle within circle, flat upon the head, as broad as a plate; a Vest of Green cloth faced with Red sat tight to her shape, over which was a loose jacket of Red, with short wide Sleeves, under this she wore a Petticoat of Puce-coloured Stuff, that reached to her ankles, bordered with two rows of Red between two of Green, a wide Collar of coarse Linen, edged with a broad flaring Lace, with meshes as large as those of a garden net. It fell back over her shoulders and left her sun-burnt neck bare, which was adorned with a large Yellow Metal Cross. If I was amused with their habits, they were not less so with mine. Three arch and pretty girls, that were huddled together under the shade of a walnut tree, did not cease tittering and blushing at my English dress, a wonder which they had never seen before. The Peasants of these mountains are the richest in Savoy, and derive a considerable trade from their cattle, sheep, mules, corn, cheese, and butter; the two latter of which are excellent. I was too fond of the mountains to return by the vale, as there was a route over them from Confflans to Chambery, and I found I could visit and sleep at three celebrated Convents in my way.

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THE next morn I bid adieu to the gay Count Galate, and attended only by Vincent and a guide, proceeded over the Wilds for the Convent of Belleveaux of the Benedictine order, and about half a day's journey from Tamiers. Nature never formed a more perfect solitude. The Convent is thrust as it seems in a narrow and dark chasm, between thick Woods, lowering Rocks and Precipices, that rise immediately and perpendicularly on every side, so as only to leave space for the humble Building and a moderate Garden. The sun is almost wholly excluded during six months of the year. And the Monks told me, it showed itself not an hour in the day from November to the end of April. The sombre Gloom of the scene seems only to be enlivened, and the solemn Silence broken, by the sullen roar of two Cascades, that rush between the rocks, and the hollow murmurs of the surrounding Pines. Yet in this total Solitude, far from the common haunts of men, dwells the most cheerful, hospitable little Prieur in the world: he thinks he can never do enough for those who have taken pains to explore the remote and rocky Chasm. Perceiving my passion for the Alps, he loaded a mule very plentifully with cold provisions and wine, and climbed up with me to the highest mountain above the Convent, which is reckoned two hundred toises higher than Mount Cenis.

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