habit and ensign of the order are a garter, mantle, cape, George, and collar. The first three were assigned the knights companions by the founder; and the George and collar by Henry VIII. The garter challenges pre-eminence over all the other parts of the dress, as from it the order is denominated. It is the first part of the habit presented to foreign princes and absent knights, who, as well as all other knights elect, are therewith first adorned: and it is of so great honor and grandeur, that by the bare investiture with this noble ensign, the knights are esteemed companions of the greatest military order in the world. It is worn on the left leg between the knee and calf, and is enamelled with this motto, Honi soit qui mal y pense.

The mantle is the chief of those vestments made use of on solemn occasions. It is of blue velvet lined with white taffeta; and to its collar is fastened a pair of long strings, with large tassels, called 'cordons,' made of blue silk intermixed with gold. On the left breast of this mantle are placed the arms of the order within the garter, richly embroidered. The mantle worn by the sovereign is distinguished by having a longer train than that of the knights. The color of these mantles is, by the founder's statute, appointed to be blue; and it so continued till the reign of queen Elizabeth, when it was changed to purple, and this was retained till about the twelfth year of king Charles I., when he restored the color of the mantle to its original institution. The surcoat, or kirtle, as well as the mantle, was originally composed of woollen cloth, and so continued till the reign of Edward IV., about which time it was also made of velvet. Anciently, the color of this vesture changed every year, commonly into blue, scarlet, sanguine in grain, or white; it is now made of crimson velvet, lined with white taffeta.

The hood was formerly worn on the head at all public ceremonies, and made of the same materials as the mantle, and sometimes was trimmed or set off with a small proportion of garters; but it is not now used in the same manner as formerly, but remains fixed to the mantle as part of the habit; and, instead of the hood, the knights now wear on their heads a cap of black velvet, deep in the crown, lined with taffeta, and adorned with a large plume of ostrich feathers, in the centre of which is a tuft or aigrette of heron's feathers; these feathers are usually fixed to the cap by a band of diamonds. The custom of wearing these caps and feathers, at the great solemnities of the order, had sometimes been omitted, in and before the reign of James I., and therefore, in a chapter held on the 13th of April, in his tenth year, the custom of wearing the cap and feathers was established.

The collar of the order is of gold, weighing thirty ounces Troy; it is composed of twenty-six pieces, in the form of the garter enamelled blue, with the motto of the order in gold; in the centre of each garter is a rose, enamelled red, seeded gold, and leaved green: these twenty-six garters are fastened together with as many knots of gold. At the middle of it, pendent to one of the garters, is the badge of the order, being the figure of St. George armed, sitting on horseback,

and with a spear, encountering a dragon, which lies on his back under the horse's feet.

The left shoulder has from the institution been adorned with a larger garter, with the device, Honi soit, &c. Within this is the cross of the order, which was ordained to be worn at all times by king Charles I. At length the star was introduced, being a sort of cross irradiated with beams of silver. In 1551 Edward VI. made some alterations in the ritual of this order: that prince composed it in Latin, the original whereof is still extant in his own hand-writing. He there ordained, that the order should no longer be called the order of St. George, but the order of the garter; and, instead of the George, hung at the collar, he substituted a cavalier, bearing a book on the point of his sword, with the word, protectio graven on the sword, and verbum Dei on the book: with a buckle in the left hand and the word fides thereon. When the knights do not wear their robes, they are to have a silver star on the left side; and they commonly bear the picture of St. George; enamelled on gold, and beset with diamonds, at the end of a blue riband, crossing the body from the left shoulder. They are not to appear abroad without the garter, on penalty of 6s. 8d. paid to the register.

As this is one of the most splendid and favorite orders of the knighthood in this country, or even in Europe, we add an account of the Installation of the duke of Rutland, the earl of Hardwicke, the duke of Beaufort, the marquis of Abercorn, the earl of Pembroke and Montgomery, the earl of Winchelsea and Nottingham, and the earl of Chesterfield, on the 23rd of April, 1805.

On the morning of installation, at ten o'clock, the Knights Companions began the procession, in the following complete habit of the order, consisting of a black velvet plume, white ostrich feathers, and heron sprig: a purple velvet mantle, lined with white silk; gold and purple cordons; collar of the order; crimson velvet hood, and crimson velvet surcoat; silver tissue jacket, and puffed breeches; white silk pantaloons; white kid shoes; silver shoe roses, and silver knee ditto, garter, &c. The officers of the order in their mantles, the Knights elect in their under habits, having their caps and feathers in their hands, and the honorable captain Yorke, the proxy of the earl of Hardwicke, in his ordinary habit, attended the Sovereign in the royal apartment. The Officers of Arms, and the four Serjeants at Arms, with their maces, attended in the Presence Chamber; the Prebends, Poor and Naval Knights, as also the kettle drums, and house trumpets, in the Guard Chamber. The honorable captain Yorke, proxy for the earl of Hardwicke, walked in the procession, dressed in his naval uniform. At eleven o'clock, a discharge of guns announced the procession.

The Sovereign coming under his state, Garter King of Arms called over the knights; and a procession was made from the royal apartment, through the Presence and Guard Chambers; the end of St. George's Hall; the late private chapel: the passage leading to the great stairs; descending which, through the hall to the great court; and from thence, to the south door of St. George's Chapel, in the following order :—

In this manner, moving to the Chapel, the procession entered the south door; passed down the south aisle, and up the centre, or nave, then turning to the left proceeded up the north aisle, to the Chapter-house; the organ and band playing the March in Hercules; the Naval and Poor Knights dividing on either side, at some distance from the Chapter-house; then the Prebends, next above; and the Officers of Arms nearest to the Chapter-house. None entering with the Sovereign into the Chapter-house, but the Knights Companions, and the sworn Officers of the order; the Knights elect retired to their chairs in the aisle behind the altar. The Sovereign's train was carried into the Chapter-house by Garter; and borne out of the Chapter-house by Deputy Black Rod, and then again carried by the Train Bearers. Deputy Black Rod, and the Register, not having been sworn, remained in the aisle, opposite to the Knights elect. The Sovereign and the Knights Companions, being seated, the latter according to their seniority, and their stalls in the Chapel; Garter acquainted His

Majesty, that Robert Quarme, Esq. Deputy Black Rod, waited at the door and humbly prayed admittance to take the oath of Office: and he being thereupon introduced by Garter, kneeled near the Sovereign, on the left hand, when Garter, holding the Gospels, administered the oath. Deputy Black Rod, having kissed the Sovereign's hand, retired to his place at the bottom of the table. Then Garter, in the absence of the Chancellor (who was indisposed), acquainted His Majesty that the dean of Windsor, the honorable and reverend Dr. Edward Legge, attended at the door, and prayed admittance to take the oath, as the Register of the Order. He was thereupon introduced by Garter and Deputy Black Rod; the latter carrying the ensigns of the Register's office: the locum tenens administered the oath; and Register being invested, and having kissed the Sovereign's hand, withdrew to his place at the bottom of the table. Then, by the Sovereign's command, the officer acting for the Chancellor standing on the left hand of His Majesty, read the new statute. Which done, the Register returned to his place.

Garter then, by the sovereign's command, introduced the duke of Rutland between two knights, viz. their royal highnesses the dukes of York and Clarence, who was received at the door by the two junior knights, and conducted to the table, where the surcoat, girdle, and sword had been placed and Garter presenting the surcoat to the two senior knights, they invested his grace therewith, the Register reading this admonition take this robe of crimson, to the increase of your honor, and in token and sign of the most noble order you have received, wherewith you being defended, may be bold not only strong to fight, but also to offer yourself to shed your blood for Christ's faith, the liberties of the church, and the just and necessary defence of them who are oppressed and needy. Then Garter presented the girdle in like manner, and afterwards the sword, which they put on his grace, who then took his place near the table. Garter then introduced the honorable captain Yorke, the proxy for the earl of Hardwicke, lord lieutenant of Ireland, and knight elect of the order, who stood at his excellency's place near the table, between their royal highnesses the dukes of Cumberland and Kent.

The duke of Beaufort and his companions were then severally introduced between two knights in like manner, and invested with the surcoat, girdle, and sword.

The knights elect and the proxy continued in the Chapter-house, while the procession to the Chapel was made down to the bottom of the north aisle and up the nave, into the choir, in the following order :-First, the naval and poor knights, who, coming into the choir, made their reverences, first to the altar, then to the sovereign's stall, and placed themselves, on each side, near the altar. The prebends made their reverences in like manner, and went to their places under the stalls. The officers of arms, making their reverences, stood next to the poor knights. Then the knights companions, each in the order in which he had walked, made their reverences, and retired under their banners, where they re

mained standing. The Register, Garter, and Deputy Black Rod, making their reverences together, stood before their form. The Prelate and Chancellor did the same. The Sword of State, with the Lord Chamberlain on his left hand (the Sovereign being seated), stood on the steps before, or under the sovereign's stall. The Sovereign made one reverence to the altar; and, being in his stall, repeated the same; the train bearers standing upon the steps leading to the sovereign's stall.

Garter then went into the middle of the choir, and making his double reverence, waved his sceptre towards his Royal Highness the prince of Wales; who, thereupon came from under his banner, made his reverences, and ascended into his stall; where, repeating his reverences, he sat down. All the other knights continued standing under their banners. The Prelate was conducted to the altar by the verger of St. George's Chapel; and the two Prebends, by the same Verger.

Then Garter, with the usual reverences, the organ and band playing the Dead March in Saul, and Dirge in Sampson, took up the banner of his Serene Highness the late duke of Saxe Gotha; and holding it up, the Provincial Kings of Arms joined, and making their reverences, repaired to the two senior knights; who thereupon joined, making their reverences together, and received the banner from Garter, which they carried, the point foremost, a little declining; and being preceded by the said Provincial Kings of Arms, advanced to the first step of the altar; where they repeated their reverences; and coming to the rails, made reverences to the altar; then kneeling, they delivered the banner to the Prelate, who, assisted by the Prebends, placed it upright at the south end of the altar.

The two knights then returned with like reverence, and stood upon their banners. The sword was then delivered by Garter to the next senior knights; who, attended by the said Provincial Kings of Arms, offered the same, the hilt upwards, with like ceremonies. The helm and crest were offered by the two next senior knights, with the same ceremony, attended by the said Provincial Kings of Arms. The achievements of the late marquis of Stafford, of the late duke of Beaufort, and the late duke of Roxburgh, were offered with the same ceremonies, by the six senior knights, not of the blood royal, attended each time by two heralds, in rotation. Then Garter, bowing to each knight (the senior first), summoned him to ascend into his stall; when he made his reverences, and the same were repeated when in the stalls. All the knights being in their stalls, Garter summoned the two senior knights under their banners, in order to install the duke of Rutland; and a procession was made to the Chapter-house, all making the usual reverences, on going out of the choir.

The procession passing to the west end of the choir only, entered the choir, all making the usual reverences; Garter, with the Register and Deputy Black Rod, went under the stall appointed for his grace; Garter placing the cushion upon the desk of the lower stall.

The two knights, with the duke, entered into the lower stall, where the Register administered the following oath, Deputy Black Rod holding

the Gospels:-'You being chosen to be one of the honorable company of the most noble order of the Garter, shall promise and swear, by the Holy Evangelists, by you here touched, that wittingly, and willingly, you shall not break any statute of the said order, or any article in them contained, unless you shall have first received a dispensation from the sovereign, the same being agreeable, and not repugnant to the will of God and the laws of the realm, as far forth as to you belongeth and appertaineth, so help you God and his Holy Word.' The two knights then conducted his grace into the upper stall; the Register and Garter entering into the lower stall; the Deputy Black Rod remaining in the area. Garter then presented the mantle to the knights, who invested his grace therewith, the Register reading the following admonition :- Receive this robe of heavenly color, the livery of this most excellent order, in augmentation of thy honor, ennobled with the shield and red cross of our Lord, by whose power thou mayest safely pierce troops of thine enemies, and be over them ever victorious; and, being in this temporal warfare glorious in egregious and heroic actions, thou mayest obtain eternal and triumphant joy.' Next Garter presented the hood, which was put on over his grace's right shoulder, the ends of the tippets being brought in front, and passed under the girdle. Then garter presented the great collar and George, with which the knights invested the duke, whilst the Register read this admonition:-Wear this collar about thy neck, adorned with the image of the blessed martyr and soldier in Christ, St. George, by whose imitation provoked, thou mayest so overpass both prosperous and adverse encounters, that, having stoutly vanquished thine enemies, both of body and soul, thou mayest not only survive this transient combat, but be crowned with palms of eternal victory.' Garter then presented the statute-book, which the knights delivered to his grace; and then placing the cap and feathers on his head, they seated him in his stall; and his grace rising up, made his double reverence, viz., first to the altar, then to the sovereign: the knights, after embracing and congratulating him, descended into the middle of the choir, and, making their reverences, went up into their stalls, and, repeating the same, sat down; the officers returning to their places.

Then garter summoned the two knights next in seniority, in order to install the honorable captain Yorke, the proxy for the earl of Hardwicke; who was thereupon conducted, with the same ceremony, into the stall under that appointed for his principal, where the Register administered to him the oath. He was then conducted into the upper stall; and, the mantle being presented by Garter, the knights put the same over his left arm, so that the cross, embroidered within the garter, might be seen. They then seated the said proxy in the stall, with the ceremony as before-mentioned, and returned to their stalls; the proxy, immediately rising, made his reverences, and remained standing during the rest of the ceremony, with the mantle on his

arm.

The duke of Beaufort, the marquis of Abercorn, the earl of Pembroke, the earl of Winchilsea, and the earl of Chesterfield, were severally intro