there was one thing of which it could boast above any other place on the coast. "Every Christmas day in the morning, gentlemen, a salmon exhibits himself in the river that runs by this ancient corporation; and is so docile as to permit himself to be handled and taken by any person that wishes. But if any were so impious as to kill him, a divine judgment would instantly overtake the wicked man." This story thus asserted by one, was corroborated by many, and is attested by those who have had the felicity to be familiar with this very extraordinary visitor; but were not irreligious enough to arrest his body. Of all the motley swarms of stories produced in the feculent waters of superstition, this appears as extraordinary as any: we hope, therefore, the goodnatured people of the place will forgive us, if unable to account for the origin, we cannot discover the utility of the story. And as we are not possessed of sufficient faith to believe, that the sun dances on Easter-day, we withhold our assent from the miraculous appearance of this inhabitant of the wave.

The country now put on a pleasing rural garb, as we passed through large groves of oak and chesnut, on the eastern banks of the Nedd. An avenue near two miles in extent defended us from the oppressive heat of the sun; while the adjacent declivities studded with neat houses, furnished an agreeable scene; the effect of which was heightened by the dense woods of Vernon Park, on the margin of the æstuary. Here is the justly admired spot called Briton Ferry. The advantages which nature has bestowed on this place baffle all attempts at adequate description: whatever enters into the bold or pleasing landscape, are here combined, verdant slopes, shady

woods, abrupt declivities, with massy oaks growing out of the iron-stone rocks; and shewing their roots through the strata on the banks of the river: the river Nedd opening in a wide æstuary to the ocean; the moving scene of shipping up and down the river; all unite to adorn this place with numerous and peculiar charms. In this enviable spot, amidst thick plantations, stands the small but elegant mansion of Lord Vernon. The house is low, having two wings with attic windows in the roof, ornamented with a balustraded parapet. Before the principal front are clumps of myrtles, a proof of the mildness of the air. The park consists of several small eminences, with irregular walks, terminating in vistas, which command the most delicious views: the estuary, the bay, the mumbles, and the distant mountains in fine perspective. Every view is different, but every one picturesque and interestingly fine. The points are admirably chosen, and the formation and disposal of the whole display much judgment and true taste. Indeed it must be a perverted one indeed, that could despoil nature of many of the beautics she has so lavishly bestowed on Briton Ferry. But the admirer of nature will lament, that the privacy and silence which tend to produce and enhance the pleasurable effects of rural scenery, are now invaded and destroyed by the continuation of the Neath canal; cut for the purpose of an easier delivery of coals for exportation, from his Lordship's and other col

*

* In the woods we found salvia clara, orobus sylvaticus, melampyrum sylvaticum, sanicula Europa, hypericum pulchrum, hypericum androssemum, astragalus uralensis, and on the shore, arenaria peploides, salsola kali, eringium mariti mum chenopodium maritimum, and chelidonium glaucium.

lieries in the vicinity of Neath. The shallow and shifting sands of the river prevent vessels getting out or in, but at spring tides: and at all times render the navigation difficult and precarious. This has of late years thrown the balance of the coal trade into the hands of their neighbours at Swansea. The Neath proprietors will however by this plan be enabled to come in for a share of the trade. This has been represented as strongly derogatory to his Lordship's taste; but it must be acknowledged that beauty should be subordinate to utility; and in many instances taste has been obliged by imperious necessity to make sacrifices, which though she does not admire, she has been unable to avoid. And his enthusiasm must far exceed his benevolence, who does not rejoice, that a market is thus opened for the commodities of the country; and new sources of wealth afforded to the inhabitants. Nor can it be doubted, that while his Lordship enjoys for the present the fruits of his exertions; that his patriotic spirit will receive, as it deserves, the thanks of posterity.

To the south of the park, embosomed in a native grove, stands the small neat church of Llansawel. * Nothing could exceed the emotions of awe and veneration excited in my mind by the air of seclusion and solemnity, apparent in this sequestered place. For it is, without exception, the most desirable cemetry I ever beheld. Inclosed so as to prevent the

* "Briton Fery, caullid in Walsche Llanisauel, wher be 3 ●r 4 houses and a chapel of ease on the hither side of Nethe Ryver. The trajectus at the flude is more than half a quarter of a mile over. "Leland Itin. Vol. IV. fol. 55.

L

rude tread of brutal or unhallowed feet, and undisturbed by the premature intrusion of the unfeeling sexton, the sacred ashes of the silent dead may here in rest repose. For here that posthumous respect is paid to the bodies of departed friends, consistent with the exalted hope we entertain of their being raised again, crowned with glory, and reanimated by their former inhabitants; only purified and exalted to a state agreeing with their high and heavenly descent. Few costly monuments bedeck this truly elegant depositary of the dead; but a number of plain stones with neat inscriptions, mark the interment of departed worth; or bespeak the affection of surviving friends. Every grave is circumscribed with the most careful exactness, and Flora's gifts are taught to thrive within the neat inclosures. Fond fancy in her decorations has assumed a variety of forms; but all are appropriate, all are strictly chaste. I feel myself among the dead! My mind is become in unison with the place. I reflect on the past, I ruminate on the present; and the future seems as though it were present with me. I appear rivetted to the spot, and my heart seems more than ever disposed to profit by the impressive lessons these funereal emblems around me, are calculated to furnish. I am ever Yours, J. E.

*

* Monuments were formerly supposed to conduce to the happiness of the deceased, while the doctrine of purgatory and the efficacy of posthumous prayers were generally believed. If this were the case, how much more efficacy, as bespeaking the suffrages of the living, must these pleasing and constant attentions produce? Though the error vanished as the light of the Reformation shone forth, yet I feel so affected with the expressive sympathy of the custom, that I say to my survivors:

"Vivite felices, memores et vivite nostris,

Sive erimus, seu nos fata fuisse velint."

its

DEAR SIR,

LETTER VI.

LEAVING the calm retreat, and refreshing shades of Briton Ferry, the country began to change appearance; and reminded us, that we had left the quiet walks of life, and were entering upon a manufacturing and commercial part of the country, as we approached the town of Neath, than which a more uncomfortable or disgusting place, perhaps, cannot be imagined. The streets are narrow and dirty, and the houses blackened with the continual columns of smoke, that ascend from the collieries. and founderies: the inhabitants partake of the same dingy hue; the baleful effluvia blast vegetation in its infancy, and destroy the appearance of verdure in the vicinity. Some walls of its castle, built by one of the Norman knights, are still standing; but the only thing worthy of remark is the ruins of its large and celebrated abbey; whence it was called Abbat y Glyn Nedd: the latter being the name' of the river, on the western banks of which it stands. It was a Cistertian house of white monks, dedicated to the Holy Trinity; founded by Richard de Greenville and Constance his wife, who bestowed the tythes belonging to the castle of Neath, with a large tract of waste land and other possessions, în the time of Henry I. to the abbot and convent of Savigny, near Lyons in France, for the purpose of erecting and peopling a monastery in this place. Accordingly, the Fratres Grisei quickly executed the wishes of the pious founder; and, in compli◄ ment to their benefactor, transformed themselves