a change!" From a view of the lake and as I took possession of one near the rich in nature and untrammeled, breathing the spirit of a remote American lake far removed from settlements, where, perhaps, an encampment of wandering red men might be discerned under the primeval forests, or their light canoe within the rocky inlet -turn to the other side of the palace, and the eye wanders amid scenes as strikingly artificial as the view which we have just been contemplating was wild and natural. Here even the trees themselves are not permitted to stretch away their branches as the great Architect of the universe had designed; but the hand of man is everywhere discernible in the rigid and stately outlines: some portions of the grounds presenting long lines of trees so pruned as to give them the effect of immense hedges, or walls covered with verdure, with here a tree so tortured as to give it the effect of a column, there an urn. In fact, a sort of miniature Versailles here bursts upon the sight, but destitute of the stately grandeur which characterizes the original model. A few groups of bronze statues are introduced here and there; some of these are of considerable excellence. In the center of this portion of the grounds stands an immense fountain, also ornamented with bronzes; but this seemed minus any supply of water, and to have been in its present condition of thirst for some time. Most of the bronzes which I observed here appear to have been more or less affected by the climate; indeed, few among them were perfect, the severe frosts having apparently burst a considerable number. As what may be termed the Louis XIV. style of landscape gardening prevails in but a small portion of the grounds of Drotningholm, I must not forget to do justice to other portions of the park. A more charming combination of wood, water, and rock, with secluded winding paths, is rarely found than that which extends on either side of the French garden. The arrangement of water is most admirable. An artificial stream of considerable size winds through the park amid forest trees and wild under-brush, with occasional little islands, which add much to the effect of the scene, covered as they are with a most luxuriant growth of trees, under which the swans seek shelter. There are seats tastefully arranged with reference to the views in different portions of the grounds, water, the swans were by no means disturbed at my approach, but, stretching up their proud and graceful necks, they seemed disposed to do the honors of the royal domain in a truly courtly manner. They were, indeed, the only representatives of royalty at the time in possession of the place. So quiet and wild are some portions of these grounds, that amid the thick woods and rocks, were it not for an occasional statue peeping through the trees, one might readily fancy himself far removed from civilization, and perhaps the first intruder upon the solitude about him. Upon the side of the French garden, which stretches away to the water's edge, I was particularly impressed with the almost primeval character of the forest. Sweden is certainly, for a country so far to the north, rich in her varieties of trees. Indeed, in this park, as well as some other grounds which I have visited in the vicinity of Stockholm, there are oaks which would not lose in comparison with some of the finest specimens of this tree in England. Speaking of trees, perhaps the most peculiar and striking variety of the North is a species of white birch, which 1 have observed growing very luxuriantly in Norway, particularly upon the borders of the beautiful lake of Miosen; but I think I have seen nowhere finer specimens than this park affords. They are an exceedingly graceful and picturesque tree, in form reminding one somewhat of our own weeping elm, but approaching more closely to the weeping willow; in fact, in outline, as well as form of leaf and color of the foliage, they are much like the willow; whereas the bark of the tree resembles closely our own white birch. They are very hardy and of luxuriant growth, without the frailty of the weeping willow, which is such a great objection in our climate; and for cemeteries, or grouped with other trees upon our grounds, they would certainly be invaluable, as we have no trees of drooping foliage upon which we can depend for hardihood. In Norway the weeping birch, hanging its graceful branches alongside the native fir, or Norway spruce, as it is termed with us, presents one of the most beautiful contrasts imaginable. The latter tree, it is well known, has been cultivated with great success in the United States, and is ance with our usual custom at home, yet I must confess I was somewhat vexed to find my beef-steak first produced, while the soup and fish were in preparation for a second and third course. In no very good humor, I ordered the steak back to the fire, where I was very certain it would spoil, determined to dine à l'Americain, commencing with soup. But, upon consideration, I felt ashamed of my ill-humor, and bethought myself that the poor girl had served me in accordance with the ordinary habits of the country, to say nothing of the fact that my Swedish might have been better, and that this last-named fact possibly caused the mistake. Hereupon I made a resolve which I have since found of great service; that is to say, I resolved" while in Sweden to do as the Swedes do," and if the soup and fish came for the last course, after the pudding, to eat them, asking no questions; in fact, to become as near as possible what Bayard Taylor calls a sympathizing traveler. There is another peculiarity of the Swedish cuisine, which I observed on this occasion, and which is, I believe, general, that of retaining the scales upon the fish, and thus serving it up on table. Here was another opportunity for getting out of humor, and it was fortunate that I had anticipated it by so wise a resolution. Meantime, I remembered to have been assured by a Swede that this was the only means of preserving the flavor of the fish ; and it occurred to me that it would have been in exceedingly bad taste to have expressed vexation when such supposed attention to my comfort had been shown. And so at last, although the fish with scales was served after the beef, I came to the conclusion that the dinner was all very good. So much for a day's excursion to Drotningholm. It was half past eight o'clock when stepped on board the little steamer to return to the city. The night air was chilling, notwithstanding the day had been one of excessive heat. As we threaded our course through the numerous islands, or again glided into the center of the lake, a brilliant sunset lent its charms to the scene. The windows upon the right shore were bright as with burnished gold, and as we approached Stockholm the palace, domes, and spires were reflecting the last rays of the setting sun. But the beauty of the northern trees has almost turned my head, and I have wandered a long way from my subject. At Drotningholm, as in all the royal parks in the vicinity of Stockholm, are hotels for the accommodation of the numerous visitors. The one which I entered was small, but clean, and I might say comfortable, if the word properly belonged to any other language than our own, and its application to the domestic habits of any other people than the Anglo-Saxon race. The floors of the inn were sprinkled with fresh twigs of juniper, a frequent custom in Norway as well as in Sweden. Some English writers have earnestly objected to this custom. Although car would, indeed, be preferable, yet when we must necessarily submit to bare floors, or to those covered with these fresh green twigs, I must confess that my preference is in favor of the evergreens, which always have a cheerful holiday look, and emit a perfume which I find far from disagreeable. I have long since learned to forego the luxury of carpets, although II would not attempt to question their comfort. But it would be unjust to condemn Sweden for a deficiency equally marked in most continental countries. There is one other peculiarity in Sweden to which I have not yet become sufficiently accustomed to find it agreeable. I allude to the custom of serving meats before the soup at dinner. On the occasion to which I refer, although I had been careful to order the arrangement of dishes in accord THE CHURCHES OF STOCKHOLM. THE churches of Stockholm offer very little of interest to the traveler, and when compared with the stupendous structures of Italy, France, and Germany, they appear meager in the extreme. It seems strange that the existence of such splendid edifices as those which are now in ruins in the neighboring island of Gottland should have had little or no influence to improve the taste exhibited in the ecclesiastical architecture of the Swedish capital. The severe purity of the early Gothic, which is so striking in the island referred to, appears not to have found its way to the city of Birjer Jarl, and the only specimen which here exists of the Gothic is in the Riddarholm's Kyrkan, of which I have presented an illustration in a previous article. The predominating style of church architecture is the Italian, and the churches here somewhat remind one in their external appearance of the most inferior structures in the great capital of the papal world. Among these churches I shall first mention that of St. Nicholas, as the most ancient. I have in a previous article alluded to it as having been founded by Birjer Jarl. One Sunday during my resi dence at Stockholm I attended service in this church. The attendance I found good, and the music excellent. Here were seats for the royal family superbly fitted up, where royalty, seated under a canopy of velvet and gold, surmounted by a crown, may lounge upon luxurious cushions, and listen to the doctrines of the meek and humble Jesus. In this place the coronation of the Swedish sovereigns takes place. This structure is in no way remarkable for its exterior effect or for the grandeur of its interior. The tombs are numerous, but in no way striking. The most interesting object which it contains is its celebrated altar-piece of ebony, elaborately carved, and ornamented with numerous figures and basso-relievos, of gold, silver, and ivory, representing the birth, passion, and resurrection of our Saviour. This work, like many other rare and curious articles scattered over Sweden, is one of the trophies of the "Thirty Years' War," and is of German workmanship. From the church of St. Nicholas I proceeded to the Catholic church, the only one in Stockholm. It is small and was densely crowded; it being Corpus Christi day, the church was ornamented with numerous boughs of trees, giving it quite a Christmas effect; but the illusion was, however, destroyed by the appear ance of the altars covered with the greatest profusion of garden flowers. The queen and queen dowager, who are Roman Catholics, usually attend service at this place. There is very little toleration toward Catholics exhibited by the Swedish government. It is but a short time since several persons were imprisoned in Stockholm for embracing the Catholic faith. No Lutheran is permitted even to enter this church without a special permit. I was informed by a member of the diplomatic corps that, on the occasion of the attempt to assassinate the young Emperor of Austria, Francis Joseph, and his safe deliverance from the attack of the assassin, mass was celebrated in this church at the request of the Austrian embassador, who extended a particular invitation to the members of the diplomatic corps, and to some of the leading persons belonging to the Swedish nobility, to be present at the service. It seems that it became necessary for the Swedes who were Lutherans to secure a special indulgence before they were able to avail themselves of the invitation extended to them by the Austrian envoy. One of the first objects which arrests the attention in approaching Stockholm from the Baltic side is the church of St. Catherine. It is situated upon a command ing elevation, and there is something very impressive in its effect. The advantage which it possesses in the height of ground which it occupies is such that one is at first led to suppose the edifice far more vast than it is in reality. Its picturesque outline and lofty dome lift themselves boldly against the sky. This church was founded in 1656, and occupies the ground upon which were burned the bodies of the victims of the massacre by order of Christian II. The present edifice, however, only dates to the early part of the last century. The dome is the most remarkable feature of this church, which, together with the whole extent of roof, is supported without the aid of columns. Next in interest I should rank the church of Adolf Friederik. This edifice is built in the form of the Greek cross, with an octagonal tower surmounted by a dome. This is also a structure of the last century, but some fifty years later than the church of St. Catharine. The altar-piece is a basso-relievo in marble by the distinguished Swedish sculptor, Sergel, to whose works I have before alluded. It is also interesting as the burial-place of this sculptor. The Swedish capital contains little of interest in ecclesiastical architecture, as the reader will conclude from the illustrations which I present, and which include, I think, the finest specimens of which articles of warfare and of domestic use Stockholm can boast. MUSEUM OF NORTHERN ANTIQUITIES. THE collection of Northern antiquities in Stockholm greatly disappointed my expectations. It is certainly far inferior in all respects to the collection of the same character in Christiania. But, upon consideration, this should have been expected; for while Norway possesses a brilliant early history, reaching far back into the pagan age, her modern history is almost wholly absorbed in that of Denmark. The brilliant age of Swedish history, meantime, begins with the Wasa dynasty, and extends over a considerable period of the time that Norway was little more than a province of Denmark. The savans of the North divide the pagan age into three distinct eras: the stone age, the bronze age, and the iron age. The remains which belong to these periods have been for the most part discovered in tumuli, the ancient tombs of Scandinavia. Some of the specimens shown in this collection, particularly of the stone age, remind one much of the * which have been from time to time discovered on our own continent, belonging to the aborigines of the country. There are many arrow heads in this collection which could scarcely be distinguished from those which are discovered in America. But in all ages and countries the wants of a people, as well as the degree of perfection arrived at in supplying those wants during the earliest and rudest period of existence, present many striking points of resemblance. The three periods in this collection are certainly not as distinctly marked as in the collection at Christiania. The remains of the bronze age in particular appeared to me as far less complete. And the various ornaments in gold and silver, although curious and interesting, are far less so than many specimens exhibited in the before named collection. I was struck with the resemblance of many of the ornaments of gold to those exhibited in the Etruscan Museum of the Vatican; some of them were equally beautiful in execution. Perhaps some of my readers may not be aware that many of the most |