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Route 103.- Biella · 104. Varallo to Châtillon.

in her life, as, the Chapel or Oratory | of the Annunciation - of the Purification of the Assumption, &c. A few are dedicated to saints in the Romish calendar; and the whole number of these chapels exceeds 24.

One benefit to the traveller who may choose to wander by Biella, a little out of the high course from Varallo to Turin, arises from this miserable superstition, for it has caused the establishment of good inns necessary for the accommodation of the numerous pilgrims who visit it; and he will have no reason to complain of a want of comfort at Biella. There is a communication by diligence, three times a week, between Biella and Turin, distant 33 miles.

From Biella to Turin there are two roads, one by Saluzzola, Cigliano and Chivasse, the other by Ivrea; the distance is nearly equal; but by the former the traveller descends at once to the plains; by Ivrea, a more picturesque road leads across valleys and open commons, by Mongrando, and over the Monte Bolengo, famous for the vineyards on its slopes. views presented from the heights, of the plains and valleys spread out below the traveller on the left, and of the richly wooded mountain slopes, the lowest buttresses of the Alps towards the side of Piedmont, on the right, well recompense the traveller for the worse road, and lead him to

The

Ivrea, at the entrance of the celebrated valley of Aosta, about 20 miles from Turin. See page 250.

ROUTE 104.

VARALLO (Route 101.) TO CHÂTILLON IN THE VAL D'AOSTA, BY THE PASSES OF THE COL DE VAL DOBBIA, THE COL DE RANZOLA, AND THE COL DE JON, CROSSING THE VAL DE LYS AND THE VAL CHALLANT.

From Varallo, the ascent of the Val Sesia can best be made on mules, though it is not altogether impracticable for chars as far as Riva, distant

9 hours. The Val Sesia offers scenes of less rugged grandeur than some of its lateral valleys; but in its course, many of great beauty are passed, chiefly rendered so by the fine wooding of the slopes, the grand forms of the trees, and the sometimes tranquil, often furious course of the Sesia. Before arriving at Scopello, the villages of Balmuccias and Rua are passed, and the wild valley of Sermento opens on the right.

At Scopello there are many smelting houses, where the copper ore, already washed and crushed, is reduced. About 50 tons annually are raised at Alagna, at the head of the Val Sesia, 4 leagues above Scopello.

There is not much variation in the scenery, though the whole is pleasing. The route passes by the villages of Campertongo and Mollis, to Riva, the chief of the high villages in the valley. Within the district known as the Val Sesia there are reckoned two bourgs and 30 villages, evidence of a thickly-populated country in the valleys of the Alps. Riva is situated at the confluence of the torrents of the Dobbia and the Sesia, and about half a league below the village of Alagna, where the mines of copper are wrought. From Alagna, a pass by the Mont Turloz leads in six hours from the Val Sesia to Pesterana in the Val Anzasca.

Riva is a miserable place of rest; the inn affording only wretched accommodation, and its inmates little civility, but there is no other. The church of Riva will surprise the traveller by its structure, its excessive decoration, and the real talent with which it is painted within and without, chiefly by one of the numerous painters which the Val Sesia has produced-Tanzio, or Antonio d'Enrico, a native of Alagna. The external paintings have a remarkable freshness, though they have been painted more than 200 years, and exposed to the weather in this high valley.

The view of Monte Rosa from

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Riva is very sublime; its enormous masses clothed in glaciers, close the head of the Val de Lys, and offer a scene of extraordinary grandeur.

The course into the Val de Lys from Riva is up the narrow ravine of the Dobbia, by a wretched and difficult path, in some places overhanging the torrent, in others disputing with the river the narrow course through which both must struggle. After passing the miserable hamlet of Grato, near to which there is a fine waterfall gushing out of the black ravine, the abrupt ascent to the Col de val Dobbia is up through a pine forest, and thence over alpine pasturages by a long and fatiguing path, which offers no object of particular interest to the traveller.

The distance from Riva to the Col, which is 8200 feet above the level of the sea, requires 6 hours. On the summit there is a stone hovel for the shelter of travellers who may be unfortunate enough to require it; it existed in Saussure's time: it consists of two apartments, a chapel and a place of refuge within. It was built at the joint expense of the commune of Riva and of an individual of Gressoney named Luscos. Steep slopes of snow lie near the summit unmelted throughout the year. The view of Monte Rosa is concealed for some time from the traveller, but in the course of his descent the deep valley of the Lys, and the sublime masses of Monte Rosa, offer views rivalling any in the great chain.

From the summit to Gressoney requires three hours. At this retired village the traveller will be agreeably surprised on arriving at an excellent inn, kept by the family Luscos; where a harpsichord, German music, a tolerable library of Latin, German, and some French authors, portraits of Joseph II. and Maria Theresa, and a formidable array of many generations of the Luscoses' half-length ancestors, in "curled white wigs" hung around to recal their virtues to the memory of their descendants-is an unexpected

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finding in a village so retired that it almost touches the glaciers of Monte Rosa,

It is a singular fact, that in all the communes at the heads of the Piedmontese valleys of Monte Rosa, the German language is spoken; at Riva and Alagna in the Val Sesia, above Pesterana in the Val Anzasca, and at St. Giacomo in the Val Challant. The manners of these communities is as distinct as their language, from that their neighbours lower down the valleys, with whom they hold little intercourse they encourage a pride of birth and birthplace which strongly keeps up the separation. At Gressoney, in the Val de Lys, this is perhaps more strongly exemplified than in any other of the valleys. Here their characters are distinguished for honesty and industry, and few communities have a higher moral tone. Crime is almost unknown among them, and if disputes arise the syndic or magistrate elected by themselves hears the complaint, and effects an amicable settlement.

They possess many of those comforts which an Englishman appreciates, and which are unknown to the lower inhabitants of the valleys. Their education and attainments are of a higher order than is usually found in such a class, especially in such a place.

Many of their young men have distinguished themselves by the abilities which they have displayed when they have gone abroad in the world. They have become merchants and bankers, and many from among them have become eminent for learning and science, and reflected honour on the little community located in this alpine solitude. Among these is Herr Zumstein, better known in the Val Sesia as M. De la Pierre, who has made several ascents of the Monte Rosa, and gave great assistance to Colonel Von Welder, in his topography of Monte Rosa. Zumstein holds the appointment of inspector of the forests of the Va Sesia.

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From Gressoney St. Jean, the descent to St. Martin, in the Val d'Aosta, by the valley of the Lys, is a journey of about 26 miles; passing through many villages and hamlets of which the principal are Gaby, Issime, Fontainemore, and Lillianes,- | and through some scenes of wildness and beauty, which, however, become common to the traveller in the Val d'Aosta and its lateral valleys. Above Gressoney St. Jean are the hamlets of Gressoney la Trinitè, San Giacomo, and St. Pietro.

The excellent accommodations afforded at Gressoney St. Jean make it desirable head-quarters to those who would visit the magnificent glaciers at the head of the Val de Lys, or make excursions around Monte Rosa by the Col d'Ollen, which connects the heads of the valleys of the Sesia and the Lys, and the Col de Betta between the Val de Lys and the Val Challant. Excellent guides may be found at Gressoney, and there are few valleys in proximity with the glaciers which offer so many alpine wonders to the examination of the traveller.

In continuing the route direct to Châtillon, in the Val d'Aosta, it is necessary to ascend the steep forestpaths and slopes of the mountain on the side of the valley opposite to the Col de Val Dobbia: it is an extremely difficult and fatiguing path the whole way up to the Col de Ranzola, the summit of the ridge which divides the valleys of the Lys and Challant.

On emerging in the ascent from the pine forest, the finest perhaps of the views of Monte Rosa is presented, especially when taken in connection with the beautiful Val de Lys, which lies far below the traveller, with its quiet villages and fertile pasturages. The Lys, like a silver thread, may be traced up to its glaciers. On either side of the valley the vast mountains belted with forests offer, at the depression of their ridges, the paths by which the most frequent intercourse takes place with the neigh

Brussone.

bouring valleys. The scene is imperishable from the memory whilst any of the recollections of the Alps remain to the traveller.

After passing the Col de Ranzola the descent is gradual to the little hamlet of St. Grat.

Nor is it either steep or difficult to Brussone, in the The distance from Val Challant. Gressoney to Brussone is 6 hours. In the descent, the Val Challant may be traced in its course far down towards Verrex, where it joins the Val d'Aosta; except at the lowest part of the valley it fails in striking objects of interest, but near its termination there are some fine scenes. Above Brussone the valley ascends through several hamlets to St. Giacomo d'Ayas, whence a pass leads to the head of the Val Tournanche and the pass of the Cervin.

At Brussone there is one of the most detestable inns in Piedmont. Filth and its accompanying goître, disgust in every direction, and the Cheval Blanc with its dirty hostess cannot be forgotten. Sleeping here may be avoided, as the journey from Gressoney to Chatillon in the Val d'Aosta may be easily accomplished in a day, and from Gressoney to Varallo may be performed in another, and thus the bad inns at Brussone and at Riva may be avoided.

From Brussone another mountain range must be crossed to reach the Val d'Aosta at Châtillon; or the traveller may descend to Verrex in the Val d'Aosta, which requires 5 hours, passing through Challant and Challard.

The road across the mountain presents some glorious views, and Châtillon, by the Col de Jon, is reached as soon as Verrex by the Val de Challant. After crossing some meadows beyond Brussone, the road winds steeply up through a forest of pines and larches, and then opens upon one of the most beautiful pasturages in the Alps the Col de Jon, which is a fine greensward, broad and luxuriant. On reaching the descent towards the

Route 105.- Vogogna to Visp.

Val d'Aosta this beautiful valley is seen in all its length, from Chatillon to the Mont Blanc; not traced quite to the base of the latter, for its summit only is seen towering over the lower abutments into the Val d'Aosta, and showing a glorious termination to this vast and beautiful view, which, in the descent, constantly varies. A series of steep tourniquets brings the traveller down to the forests of chestnut and walnut-trees, for which the Val d'Aosta is celebrated. These offer to him their shade and soon the vines and figs add their luxuriant foliage to the cool and refreshing path which leads through the village and baths of St. Vincent, and the valley of Aosta is entered at one of its finest points near Chatillon.

ROUTE 105.

VOGOGNA,I N VAL D'OSSOLA, TO VISP IN

THE VALAIS, BY THE PASS OF THE
MONTE MORO, AND THE VALLEY OF
SAAS.

Vogogna (Route 59) is situated in the plain of the Val d'Ossola, 2 posts below Domo d'Ossola, and on the confluence of the torrent of the Anza with the Toccia. The valley of Anzasca leads directly up to the Monte Rosa; the village of Macugnaga, the highest in the valley, is a day's journey from Vogogna; thence the pass over the Moro, and by the valley of Saas to Visp, though long and fatiguing, may be accomplished in another day, or accommodation may be found, if necessary, Stalden, 8 miles short of the whole journey.

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On leaving Vogogna, a road, leading directly to the Val Anzasca, lies across the plain, and passes by the village of Pic di Muliera, at the foot of a steep ascent which leads to another village called Cima di Muliera; these are situated on the left bank of the Anza.

The path rises high on the steep slopes which descend to the bed of the

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Anza, and the village of Castiglione overhangs the richly-wooded sides of the valley. On the lower slopes of the valley the vine flourishes, and the path for miles, with little interruption, is shadowed by trellices. On looking back, the views of the Val d'Ossola are beautiful, and greatly enriched by the luxuriant vegetation of the foreground. The buildings, especially the churches, are still Italian in character, and sparkle in the landscape; and beyond the plain of the Val d'Ossola the mountains which divide it from the Lago Maggiore bound the view.

The road up the valley is scarcely any where level. The valley is remarkably narrow, and the path, accommodated to the sinuosities of the slopes, is carried steeply up and down, in and out, but offering from this cause an infinite variety of sites, whence the scenes of the valley are beautifully presented: its steep sides, however, offer few spots for cultivation. Forests, fruit-trees, and vines enrich the whole surface, and it is only on reaching high spots in the path that little plains and slopes of arable and pasturage, and village spires are seen above the belts of forest on the opposite side, and these again surmounted by the peaks of Monte Rosa at the head of the valley.

The descent to the village of Calasca offers beautiful views, and beyond it the path descends to the banks of the Anza, and for some time borders on the stream. Here the fine cascade of the Val Bianca bursts out, one of the celebrated waterfalls of Piedmont. Soon after the valley opens, a little above the Ponte Grande, where a single arch of large span and sweeping elevation, crosses the Anza, here two roads branch off; that on the right bank of the river leads to Banio, a large village whence paths ascend to cross the mountains into the Val Sesia (Route 104.) The road to the Monte Rosa ascends by the left bank of the river; in its course it skirts the village of St. Carlo, and

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the traveller soon after arrives at Vanzone, the chief place in the Val Anzasca, and halfway in his day's journey from Vogogna to Macugnaga.

The Val Anzasca.

Above Vanzone the same beautiful scenery prevails, and the route passes through many villages,-among them Ceppo Morelli, Campiole, and Morgento an abrupt and narrow defile which marks a distinction between the valleys of Anzasca and Pesterana, the latter being the name given to the upper part of the valley through which the Anza flows, from the plain of Macugnaga to the defile.

The beautiful valley of Anzasca has been described by Brockedon in his "Excursions in the Alps," and a quotation from that work will put the reader, and the traveller in these scenes, in possession of requisite information upon this interesting valley and its inhabitants :

"After sketching the fine view of Mont Rosa from the door of the auberge, and collecting from mine host some information for my day's journey, and a confirmation of my guide's topography in the names of the places which we had passed, we left the retired little plain of Macugnaga. The valley soon narrowed to a deep glen; the descent was rapid, and in less than an hour brought us to the gold mines of Pesterana. There is an El Dorado sound in this, which excites high expectations; but there is no more appearance of it than in the pavement of St. Paul's Churchyard. The mines are explored to find this 'world's chief mischief,' combined, in very small proportions, in sulphate of iron; a kilogramme of ore yielding, by the process of amalgamation, an average of only six grammes, the richest ore only yielding ten. My landlord at Macugnaga had furnished me with the name of Professor Fantonetti, as the superintendent of the mines, and as the possessor of a collection of specimens of the minerals of the valley.

"I called upon this gentleman at

Pesterana, and received the most courteous and obliging attentions from him. He sent a servant with me to the mills on the Anza, where the ore is crushed, and to the mines; and directed the miners to give me assistance and information. The first was readily offered; but the last was useless, as I could not understand a syllable of their jargon. I entered the mine about 300 yards, by an adit of slight ascent: here a shaft was sunk about 60 feet, and I saw several miners working on the lower vein of the ore. The quantity raised is not very considerable. Women are chiefly employed in pounding and picking the ore, whence it passes to the mills of granite, in which it is ground and prepared for amalgamation: the final process is in the hands of M. Fantonetti alone. On my return to that gentleman's house, he pressed me to take refreshment, and gave me some specimens of the ore of the mines, and two works which he had written, one of them, on the mines of those valleys, in answer to a work of Rossini's, at Turin.

"I scon after crossed the Anza, over an alpine bridge, and continued to ascend above the right bank of the river. Numerous adits of mines, indicated by the earth and stones thrown from them, marked the pursuits of the inhabitants of this valley, who are nearly all miners. The mineral riches of these mountains-iron, lead, copper, silver, and gold-are worked at short distances from each other; and many of the mines of the inferior metals are very productive. The distinction between the continuous valleys of Pesterana and Anzasca, is strongly marked by a vast mass of the mountain, which, nearly closing the bottom of the former valley, leaves only a deep and savage gorge, through which the Anza escapes on the left side into the Val Anzasca. The path over this mass leads through what scarcely deserves the name of a vil lage, Morgen, but which lies in a

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