Obrazy na stronie

Swiss, vs. American Scenery.


Hɔw much Knowles' Marianna says in the simple exclamation :

"Switzerland is a dear country-Switzerland !" The name will always recall to me many pleasant associations.

I am not a little puzzled in choosing my route through Germany. The most attractive is that through the Tyrol to Bavaria, Munich, Prague, and Dresden; but it is a long tour, and little travelled. • The Glyptique' collection of the fine arts at Munich, and the great Dresden Gallery, are doubtless worthy of a visit; but on the whole, I think I shall con. tent myself with the sights of Frankfort, Leipsic, Mayence, the sail down the Rhine to Coblentz and Cologne, and thence to Aix la Chapelle, and the cities of Belgium.



Schaffhausen-Carlsruhe- The Rhine to Mayence-Manheim, etc.

--Frankfort-Great Fair-German Smokers, Despotic Courtesy-Journey to Leipsic-Mr. Tauchnitz-Book- Trade-Uni. versity-Dining-Battle of Leipsic--Otho of Greece.

Carlsruhe, Dutchy of Baden, Sept. 5.— I was somewhat amused by a good-looking Irish gentleman, who, after pay. ing some pretty sensible compliments to the flavor of the bon vins of mine host at Schaffhausen, very kindly offered me his confidence and friendship, .free gratis for nothing,'

and proposed a walk to the falls, observing by the way, while telling me this, that, and the other, in the betweenyou-and-me sort of a way, that a rascal, whom he had un. suspectingly made his bosom friend and room-mate at Aix la-Chapelle, had, with equal good nature, very benevolently relieved him of the care of his purse and gold watch. Poor Pat! I tear he was in a fair way to be operated upon again, with equal efficacy.

Schaffhausen is a queer old Germanized town, quiet and dull. The Hibernian and myself were the only guests at the principal hotel. I had another dreary night ride from thence to the frontier of this dutchy, where passports and luggage were duly inspected. At sunset, I arrived at Offenbourg, a decent town, where I found a very nice inn, kept by a nice man, who deals in wines and broken English. He entertained me excellently well, and sent me on to this place this morning in an extra. We stopped to dine at a town, which I took for our ultimatum, and lei. surely disposed myself accordingly, when lo! by mere accident, I observed the carriage starting off, with my portmanteaus safely behind. Ou allez vous ?'—'a Carl. sruhe!' So much for being among people of a strange tongue.

There seemed to be a uniformity of costume in several of the towns. Red vests and breeches and broad.brimmed hats, were universal among men and boys; i. e., of the peasantry only, for they are a distinct order of beings on the continent. The most laborious part of farming, etc., is performed by the women; the fair sex' here are

Carlsruhe - The Upper Rhine.


expected to hold the plough, rake the hay, and dig the potatos. What brutes must the men be!

Carlsruhe, the duke of Baden's capital and residence, is one of the neatest towns I have seen on the continent. The streets are broad, straight, and well paved, and the buildings all of stone, painted cream-color. The chateau of the duke is in the form of a crescent, opposite a block of private houses in similar style, thus making an elegant circle, with a garden and orangery in the centre. In the rear of the chateau, is an extensive hunting-park. The whole of this dutchy appears to be one level plain, not specially fertile ; and there is little to remark in riding over it, except the extensive squadrons of geese, tended by the lasses like flocks of sheep, and the battalions of ganders, in the shape of the duke's soldiers.

Our introduction to his Serene Lowness the Rhine, did not give us the most favorable impression of his majesty. If one should see that part of the river between Switzer. land and Mayence, and no more, he would pronounce its far.famed beauties all a joke. It passes here through this flat uninteresting dutchy, the banks affording nothing more attractive than pine bushes, six feet high ; and the river itself has lost its primitive attraction at Schaffhausen, for here it is of a brown muddy color, instead of its once transparent green. Occasionally, however, the monotony of the shores is relieved by a pretty town, which, the at mosphere being clear, and the view unobstructed, may be seen from a great distance. Among others, we passed

Spires and Worms, noted for their cathedrals, which are very conspicuous objects from the river; and Manheim, a handsome town, with a fine palace, (now chiefly in ruins) in the midst of a beautiful park. Near Manheim is Hei. delberg, celebrated for its university, which is the oldest in Germany. These places are in the Grand Dutchy' of Hesse-Darmstadt, which adjoins that of Baden. The boat stopped a short time at Manheim, and we went on shore to see the palace.

It was dusk when we came in sight of the famous and very pretty town of Mayence, our steamer passing through the bridge of boats over the Rhine, which was promptly opened to admit it. The spires, and domes of the town, as seen from the river, give it quite an imposing appearance. We stepped on the quay, with very little bustle, and with. out any abstruction or examination. The hotels near the river were all full, but we found good lodgings at the • Trois Couronnes' in the interior. I shall proceed to.morrow to Frankfort and Leipsic, with the intention of returning here to take the Rhine to Cologne.

Frankfort on the Maine, Sept. 7.—The ride from May. ence to this city occupied three hours and a half. The approach to Frankfort is not remarkable, except for the beautiful grounds and gardens laid out on the site of the ancient walls and fortifications in the environs. Frankfort, you know, is one of the four free cities of Germany, * (Hanse-Towns,) and is entirely independent of any other

* The others are Hamburgh, Bremen, and Lubeck.



state, being a coequal member of the Germanic confede. ration, and important also as the seat of the Diet. Some parts of the city are very handsome, and the whole has an air of busy prosperity : it seems to be very like Paris, on a smaller scale. The hotels are renowned for their size and excellence: and as the great semi-annual Fair is in operation, they are abundantly well patronized. This Fair is quite an important affair to the city : all the public squares, quays, etc., are filled with iemporary stalls and maga. zines' of articles, manufactured in different parts of Ger. many, the merchant announcing himself from Berlin,' or Dresden, or Leipsic. They often bring samples, only, of their

wares, and from them make extensive package sales.' I should think that one half, at least, of these stalls were fill. ed with pipes—a fair illustration of the smoking propensities of the Germans. These pipes are long and clumsy, but most of them are very prettily ornamented. The Germans are verily inveteratę lovers of the weed. They smoke every where and on all occasions; the toll-keeper puffs away while he opens the gate, the conducteur, regu. lating the diligence, the shop-keeper, while he makes your bill. All classes and degrees are alike in this respectthe duke, the professor,' the peasant. The charms of the practice are especially exemplified in the interior of a crowded diligence on a hot day, when three fourths of the passengers are doing their best to suffocate one another with fumes of smoke from pipes, and brimstone from match

Remonstrance from a novice in the science is vain,

[ocr errors]


« PoprzedniaDalej »