LETTER XII. Description of Montreal - the dominant Religion- School Societies - Island of St. Helena-Passage to QuebecDescription of Quebec - Cape Diamond - Heights and Plains of Abraham Falls of Montmorency - Indian Village of Lorette-Ceremonies of Indian Marriage - the War-Whoop and Dance--French Canadians-Falls of the Chaudière-Catholic Cathedral Museums-- Monument to Wolfe and Montcalm-Constitution of Lower CanadaClimate Fruits. -- MY DEAR FRIEND, Quebec, 24th August, 1831. THE city of Montreal, where I last took my leave of you, is situated on an island of the same name, thirty miles long, formed by the embracing arms of the St. Lawrence and Ottawa rivers. It lies to the southward of Quebec about 170 miles, being the second principal city in Lower Canada, and contains a population of 30,000 inhabitants. The aspect of the town, as seen from a distance on the river, forcibly strikes the eye, in consequence of the peculiarity of roof which covers-in many of the houses, and particularly the one surmounting the cathedral, that towers in lofty CITY OF MONTREAL. 301 dimensions above them all. This is formed of tin, which, reflecting the bright rays of a summer's. sun, exhibits the appearance of so many sheets of silver. The effect is rather too dazzling in the pure atmosphere of Canada; but, at the same time, it conveys the impression, when approaching the place, of something splendid; and excites an anticipation of beholding in the town itself what a subsequent examination fails to realise. The general view of the interior is, certainly, by no means so imposing; as the streets are narrow, and the houses display a gloomy heaviness, strongly resembling some of the ancient towns of France. There is, nevertheless, a number of handsome buildings, of which the Catholic cathedral stands out in prominent relief, and is, beyond doubt, a fine structure of the Gothic order, though perfectly simple and unadorned in its character, and far removed from any thing like a florid style. It is very capacious, and can accommodate ten thousand persons; being esteemed, with the exception of those in Mexico, the largest church in North America. The dominant religion at Montreal, as also at Quebec, is the catholic; the priests of that communion being the grands seigneurs of the whole island, the principal revenue of whom arises from grants of land made to them in former times, and from fines payable on the alienation of property. 302 EDUCATION IN LOWER CANADA. Thus, on each successive sale of an estate, these ecclesiastical lords of the soil receive from the purchaser a per centage of 81. on the amount paid, and which extends to sales of all real property within the seignory. Among the public edifices are several episcopal churches, the museum, a court-house, masonic hall, theatre, a monument to the memory of the late Lord Nelson, and, as may be supposed, numerous convents, nunneries, and other religious houses; besides a college, containing about 300 students, the terms of whose education do not exceed the moderate sum of 201. per annum. Indeed, I am happy to say, that knowledge appears to be advancing here, and in other parts of Lower Canada, in a rapid and highly satisfactory manner. The British and Canadian School Society have given a spur to the progress of education very greatly to their credit; having established schools in Montreal on the system adopted in England, where several thousands of boys and girls of the poorer classes have been admitted, and who are supported by voluntary subscriptions. There is, also, a Lancasterian and an episcopal school, founded on the system introduced by Bell; and it is gratifying to learn, that some of the leading persons of the Catholic persuasion have given the influence of their names and exertions in support of the former, and preside EDUCATION IN LOWER CANADA. 303 over its usefulness as members of the committee. In fact, the value of education has begun to be felt by all the orders of society; and the priests, to the honour of their more enlightened humanity, casting aside their prejudices, are urging onward the march of intellect in the only way that can dispel the vice, and degradation, which ignorance and superstition are calculated to produce. The schools, for which the government have provided, are restricted to masters of the Church of England; and of these seminaries a considerable number has been built in the various townships of the province. On this subject a report was made, in the year 1829, to the House of Assembly in Lower Canada, shewing the amount and distribution of them. By this it appears that, in Quebec, Montreal, and Three Rivers,—the latter being a considerable town on the St. Lawrence,there were two colleges, three schools of royal institution, eleven gratuitous schools, containing 1214 pupils, and fifty other seminaries; while scattered throughout the country there were four colleges, seventy schools of royal institution, and fourteen mission-schools. The country around Montreal is highly beautiful, particularly as beheld from what is called the "Mountain of Montreal," an elevated ridge extending about two miles, and rising nearly 700 feet above the level of the river. It lies between 304 ISLAND OF ST. HELENA. two and three miles from the city to which it gives its name, and presents to the eye a delightful panorama, embracing an admirable view of the town, a fine sweep of the St. Lawrence, and a variety of other interesting objects. It is, in itself, a noble feature in the landscape, and has been tastefully selected by the worthy citizens as the site of their country-houses; the white colouring of the villas contrasting most pleasingly with the green of the surrounding foliage. Immediately opposite to the city, a little more than half-way across the river, is the island of St. Helen or St. Helena, purchased some time ago by the British government, for a military depôt. Here have been erected barracks, storehouses, an arsenal, a magazine, and a range of batteries fronting the river and town. It is most agreeably situated, and whence is enjoyed one of the best views of the city, backed by the towering heights in its vicinity. From Montreal I moved my quarters to Quebec, making another advance, of 170 miles, in my itinerant labours. In the Canadas, as in the States, the favourite and most delightful mode of travelling is by steam-power, the happiest discovery, beyond any doubt, considering it in all its mechanical operations, that has been made since that of the noble art of printing. The advantage gained, by the present expeditious mode |