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and sweet wine. In holiday

or fruit;

apples.

2

tabill .j or ij yf hit so requere: therto moste be servid time serve cheese, swete wyne and in feriall' tyme serve chese shraped with sugur and sauge-levis, or ellis that hit be faire kervid hole, or frute as the yere yeveth, strawberys, in winter, roast cherys, perys, appulis; and in winter, wardens,3 costardys roste, rosted on fisshe-dayes with blanche pouder, and so serve hit forth Thenne aftur wafers and frute spended, all maner thinge shalbe take uppe and avoyded, except the principall salt-seler, hole brede, and kervyngknyves, the which shalbe redressed in maner and fourme as they were first sette on the table; the which,

22. Clear away all except the chief salt cellar,

whole bread, and carving-knives;

pantry.

take these to the principall servitours of the pantre or botery, havyng his towaile, shall take uppe, and bere hit into his office in like wyse as he first brought hit unto the Tabill.

23. Lay a fresh cloth all along the chief table.

[VII. How the Diners shall wash after Dessert.]

Thenne the principall servitours, as kerver and sewer, moste have redy a longe towaile applyed dowble, to be cowched uppon the principall ende of the table; and that towell must be iustely drawen thorowe the tabill unto the lower ende, and ij servitours to awayte theruppon that hit be iustely cowched and sprad. after that done, ther muste be ordeyned basyns, and ewers with water hote or colde as tyme of the yere requerith, and to be sette uppon the tabill, and to stonde unto the water to the first grace be saide; and incontynent after grace seide, the servitours to be redy to awayte and attende to yeve water, first to the principall messe, and after that to the

24. Have ready basons and jugs with hot or cold water;

and after Grace,

hand basins and

mess,

then the second.

1 Fr. ferial, of or belonging to a holyday. Vn ferial bouveur, a square drinker, a faithfull drunkard; one that will take his liquor soundly. Cotgrave. Feries, Holydaies, feastiuall daies, properly such holydaies as Monday and Tuesday in Easter week, &c. Cot.

2 So "Apples and Cheese scraped with Sugar and Sage" at the end of the Second Course of the Dinner at the Marriage of Roger Rockley & Elizabeth Nevile, daughter of Sir John Nevile, the 14th of January in the 17th year of Henry the VIIIth. (A.D. 1526.) Forme of Cury, p. 174.

3 Wardens are baking pears; costards, apples.

25. Take off and

fold up the towels

and cloth,

seconde. incontynent after this done, the towayle and
tabill-clothis most be drawen, cowched, and sprad, and
so by litill space taken uppe in the myddis of the
tabill, and so to be delyvered to the officer of pantery the Panter.
or botery.

[VIII. Of the Removal of the Table, and the separate

Service to grand Guests in the Chamber.]

and give 'em to

tables, trestles,

Thenne uprysyng, servitours muste attende to avoyde 26. Clear away tabills, trestellis, formys and stolys, and to redresse forms; and put bankers and quyssyons. then the boteler shall avoyde seats.

the cupborde, begynnyng at the lowest, procede in rule to the hieste, and bere hit in-to his office.

Thenne

cushions on other

27. Butler, put

the cups, &c.,

back into your office.

28. Serve knights

and ladies with

bread and wine,

after mete, hit moste be awayted and well entended by servitours yf drinke be asked. and yf ther be knyght or kneeling. lady or grete gentil-woman, they shall be servid uppon kne with brede and wyne. Thenne it moste be sene 29. Conduct yf strangers shalbe brought to chamber, and that the Chamber. chamber be clenly appareld and dressed according to the tyme of the yere, as in wynter-tyme, fyer, in somur tyme the bedd couerd with pylawes and hedde-shetys

strangers to the

with dainties:

in case that they woll reste. and after this done, they 30. Serve them moste have chere of neweltees in the chamber.1 as Iuncate,2 cheryes, pepyns, and such neweltees as the junket, pippins, tyme of the yere requereth; or ellis grene ginger com- or green ginger ;

3

fetts, with such thynge as wynter requereth; and

swete wynes, as ypocrasse, Tyre, muscadell, bastard and sweet wines.

possibly used as a

1 I do not suppose that each guest retired to his own bed-room, but to the general withdrawing-room, general bed-room also, when the Hall had ceased to be it. "The camera usually contained a bed, and the ordinary furniture of a bedchamber; but it must be remembered that it still answered the purpose of a parlour or sitting-room, the bed being covered over during the daytime with a handsome coverlid, as is still the custom in France & other foreign countries to this day."-Domestic Architecture, iii. 94-5.

2 See Ioncate in Index, and Russell, 1. 82. 3 See Russell, 1. 75, and, for wines, 1. 117.

How to carve a
Swan, Goose,

vernage, of the beste that may be had, to the honor and lawde of the principall of the house.

[XI. How to Carve.]

to lose and t[i]re or sawse a capon:1 begynne at the lifte legge first of a Swan2; & lyfte a gose y-reared at the Wild-fowl, Crane, right legge first, and soo a wilde fowle. To unlose, tire, or display a crane3: cutte away the nekke in a voyde plate, rere legge and whyngge as of a capon; take of ij leches of the briste, and cowche legge and whyngge and lechis into a faire voyde plater; mynse the legge, and poyntes of whinge; sawse hym with mustard, vinager, and pouder gynger, and serve hit before the sovrayne, and the carcas in a charger besyde: serve it hole before the sovrayne. and he1 may be served and dressed as a capon, save one thyng, his breste bone.5 To tyre or ellis to dismember an heronsew: rere legge and whinge as of a crane; cowche them aboute the body on bothe sydes, the hedde and the nekke being upon the golet: serve him forth, and yf he be mynsed, sawse hym with mustard, burage,7 suger, and powder of gynger.

Heronsew,

Bittern,

Egret,

To lose or untache a bitorn: kitte his nekke, and lay hit by the hedde in the golette; kitte his whynge by the joynte; rere hym legge and whynge, as the heron; serve him fourth; no sawse unto hym but only salte. To lose or spoyle an Egrete: rere uppe his legge

1 There must be some omission here. See Russell, 1. 409, and W. de Worde, p. 275.

2 See Russell, 1. 403. swan to be carved like the

cut off.

Wynkyn de Worde, p. 275, directs the goose is, p. 277.

See Russell, 1. 427-32; Wynkyn de Worde, p. 276. Rere is 4 that is, the crane.

5 See Russell, 1. 431 and note; W. de Worde, p. 273, 1. 5; p. 276.

6 Russell, 1. 422; Wynkyn de Worde, p. 276, p. 278, 1. 20.. Borage is a favourite flavouring for cups and other drinks.

& Russell, 1. 421; Wynkyn de Worde, p. 276.

9 Russell, 1. 421; Wynkyn de Worde, p. 276.

and whynge, as of a henne, aboute the carcas: no sawse to him but salte.

Pheasant.

To tyre or to ele1 a partorich or a quayle 3 Partridge, Quail, y-whyngged: rere uppe whynge and legge, as of an henne; cowche them aboute the carcas; no sawse save salte, or mustard and sugar. To lose or unlase a fesaunt rere uppe legge and whynge as an henne cowche legge and whynge aboute the carcas; serve hym fourth; no sawse but salte: but and yf he be mynsed, take whyte wyne, sugur, mustard, and a lyttell of powder gynger.

ffor to make a feste for a bryde.

A Bridal Feast.
First Course.

a Device

The first cours: brawne, with the borys hed,5 Boar's head, and lying in a felde, hegge about with a scriptur, sayng

on this wyse;

6

"Welcombe you bretheren godely in this hall! 7 Joy be unto you all

that en this day it is now fall !

that worthy lorde that lay in an Oxe stalle

mayntayne your husbonde and you, with your gystys,

alle !"

Ffurmente with veneson, swanne, pigge.

Ffesaunte, with a grete custard, with a

sotelte,

of Welcome.

Venison and
Custard, with a
Device of

A lambe stondyng in scriptour, sayng on this wyse:

Meekness.

"I mekely unto you, sovrayne, am sente,

to dwell with you, and ever be present." 7

1 Fr. aile, wing; but ailer, to give wings unto. Cotgrave.

2 Russell, 1. 397, 1. 417; W. de Worde, p. 275.

3 Russell, 1. 437; W. de Worde, p. 276.

4 Russell, L 417; Wynkyn de Worde, p. 275, p. 278.

* See the carol from the Porkington MS., "The Boris hede

furste," in Reliq. Ant. vol. ii., and below.

6 hedged or edged. 7 The verse is written as prose. 8 on

Second Course.

Venison,
Crane, &c.,

and a Device of

Gladness and
Loyalty.

Third Course.

Sweets, &c.,
Game, with a

Device of
Thankfuluess.

Fourth Course.

Cheese and a cake with a Device of Child-bearing

The second course.

Veneson in broth, viaunde Ryalle', veneson rosted, crane, cony, a bake mete, leche damaske 2, with a sotelte: An anteloppe sayng 3 on a sele that saith with scriptour

"beith all gladd & mery that sitteth at this messe, and prayeth for the kyng and all his."4

The thirde course.

Creme of Almondys, losynge in syruppe, betoure, partrich, plover, snyte, pouder veal, leche veal, wellis 5 in sotelte, Roches in sotelte, Playce in sotelte; a bake mete with a sotelte: an angell with a scriptour, "thanke all, god, of this feste."

The iiij cours.

8

Payne puff, chese, freynes, brede hote, with a cake, and a wif lying in childe-bed, with a scriptour

1 Here is the Recipe in Household Ordinances, &c., p. 455, for "Viande Riall for xl. Mess :"

Take a galone of vernage, and sethe hit into iij. quartes, and take a pynte therto, and two pounde of sugre, ii lb. of chardekoynes [quinces? Quynce, a frute, pomme de quoyn, Palsgrave] a pounde of paste-roiale, and let hit sethe untyl a galone of vernage. Take the yolkes of 60 eyren, and bete hom togeder, and drawe hom thurgh a straynour, and in the settynge doune of the fyre putte the zolkes therto, and a pynte of water of ewrose, and a quartrone of pouder of gynger, and dresse hit in dysshes plate, and take a barre of golde foyle, and another of sylver foyle, and laye hom on Seint Andrews crosse wyse above the potage; and then take sugre plate or gynger plate, or paste royale, and kutte hom of losenges, and plante hom in the voide places betweene the barres: and serve hit forthe.

2 Leyse Damask. Leland, Coll. iv. p. 226; Leche Damaske, ibid. vi. p. 5; in Forme of Cury, p. 141.

3 Fr. seoir, to sit.

4 Written as prose, which it is.

6 Roches or Loches in Egurdouce. H. Ord. p. 469.

5? welkis.

7 See the Recipe for it, p. 148, note 2; and in Household Ordinances, p. 450.

flaunes? see p. 287; or chese-freynes for cheesecakes.

9 Were the cheese and cake meant as a symbol of the Groaning

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