serve with onions and galentine. Plaice: cut off the 568 and ley hit on your lordes trenchere wheper he sowpe or dyne, & þat ye haue ssoddyn ynons' to meddille with galantyne." Off playce, looke ye put a-way be watur clend afftur þat þe fynnes also, þat þey be not sene; fins, cross it with 572 Crosse hym peñ with your knyffe pat is so kene ; a knife, sauce with wine, &c. Gurnard, Chub, Roach, Dace, Cod, &c., split up and spread on the dish. [Fol. 179 b.] wyne or ale powder per-to, youre souerayñ welle to queme. Gurnard/roche 4 / breme / chevyñ / base / melet / in her kervynge, Perche/rooche/darce / Makerelle, & whitynge, 576 Codde haddok / by pe bak / splat pem in pe dische liynge, pike owt pe boonus, clense pe refett 7 in pe bely bydynge; Soolus/ Carpe / Breme de mere, & trowt, The 1 Onions make a man stink and wink. Berthelson, 1754. Onion, though it be the Countrey mans meat, is better to vse than to tast: for he that eateth euerie day tender Onions with Honey to his breakfast, shall liue the more healthfull, so that they be not too new.' Maison Rustique, p. 178, ed. 1616. 2 Recipes for this sauce are in Liber C. p. 30, and H. Ord. p. 441 powdered crusts, galingale, ginger, and salt, steeped in vinegar and strained. See note to 1. 634 below. See "Plays in Cene," that is, Ceue, chives, or eschalots.- H. Ord. p. 452. 4 Of all sea-fish Rochets and Gurnards are to be preferred; for their flesh is firm, and their substance purest of all other. Next unto them Plaise and Soles are to be numbered, being eaten in time; for if either of them be once stale, there is no flesh more carrion-like, nor more troublesome to the belly of man. Mouffet, p. 164. 5 Roches or Loches in Egurdouce, H. Ord. p. 469. 6 Or dacce. 7 Rivet, roe of a fish. Halliwell. Dan. ravn, rogn (rowne of Pr. Parv.) under which Molbech refers to AS. hræfe (raven, Bosworth) as meaning roe or spawn. G. P. Marsh. 8 See "Soles in Cyne," that is, Cyue, H. Ord. p. 452. 9 Black Sea Bream, or Old Wife. Cantharus griseus. Atkinson. "Abramides Marinæ. Breams of the Sea be a white and solid þey must be takyn of as þey in pe dische lowt, 580 bely & bak / by gobyñ1 þe boon to pike owt, so serve ye lordes trenchere, looke ye welle abowt. Soles, Carp, &c.. take off as served. Whale / Swerdfysche / purpose/dorray2 / rosted Whale, porpoise, wele, Bret/samon / Congur/sturgeoun / turbut, & congur, turbot, zele, 584 pornebak/thurle polle / hound fysch3 / halybut, to Halybut, &c., hym pat hathe heele, alle pese cut in pe dische as youre lord etethe at cut in the dish, meele. Tenche in Iely or in Sawce/loke pere ye kut and also Tench in hit so, and on youre lordes trenchere se pat it be do. 588 Elis & lampurness rosted / where pat euer ye go, substance, good juice, most easie digestion, and good nourishment." Muffett, p. 148. 1 gobbets, pieces, see 1. 638. 2 Fr. Dorée: f. The Doree, or Saint Peters fish; also (though not so properly) the Goldfish or Goldenie. Cotgrave. 3 Brett, §xxi. He beareth Azure a Birt (or Burt or Berte) proper by the name of Brit. . . It is by the Germans termed a Brett-fish or Brett-cock. Randle Holme. 4 Rec. for Congur in Sause, H. Ord. p. 401; in Pyole, p. 469. 5 This must be Randle Holme's " Dog fish or Sea Dog Fish. It is by the Dutch termed a Flackhund, and a Hundfisch: the Skin is hard and redish, beset with hard and sharp scales; sharp and rough and black, the Belly is more white and softer. Bk II. Ch. XIV. No. lv, p. 343-4. For names of Fish the whole chapter should be consulted, p. 321-345. His flesh is stopping, slimy, viscous, & very unwholesome; and (as Alexander Benedictus writeth) of a most unclean and damnable nourishment. . they engender palsies, stop the lungs, putrifie in the stomach, and bring a man that much eats them to infinite diseases. . they are worst being fried, best being kept in gelly, made strong of wine and spices.' Muffett, p. 189. 8 7 Recipes for Tenches in grave, L. C. C. p. 25; in Cylk (wine, &c.), H. Ord. p. 470; in Bresyle (boiled with spices, &c.), p. 468. Lamprons in Galentyn, H. Ord. p. 449. "Lampreys and Lamprons differ in bigness only and in goodness; they are both a very sweet and nourishing meat. . . The little ones called Lamprons are best broild, but the great ones called Lampreys are best baked." Muffett, p. 181-3. See 1. 630-40 of this poem. jelly. On roast cast vinegar, &c., and bone them. Crabs are hard to carve put all the meat in the body-shell, and then season it with and powder. (?) Heat it, and give it to your lord. Cast vinegre & powder peroñ / furst fette pe bonus pem fro. Crabbe is a slutt / to kerve / & a wrawd1 wight; breke euery Clawe / a sondur / for pat is his ryght: 592 In þe brode shelle putt youre stuff / but furst haue a sight þat it be clene from skyn & senow or ye begyn to dight. And what 2 ye haue piked / pe stuff owt of euery shelle with pe poynt of youre knyff, loke ye temper hit welle, vinegar or verjuice 596 put vinegre / perto, verdjus, or ayselle,3 Cast per-on powdur, the bettur it wille smelle. Send þe Crabbe to þe kychyň / pere for to hete, agayn hit facche to by souerayne sittynge at mete; 600 breke pe clawes of pe crabbe / pe smalle & pe grete, In a disch pen ye lay if hit like your souerayne to ete. Put the claws, broken, in a dish. The sea Crayfish: cut it asunder, slit the belly of the back part, take out the fish, Crevise/pus wise ye must them dight: Departe the crevise a-sondire euyn to youre sight, 604 Slytt þe bely of the hyndur part & so do ye right, and alle hoole take owt pe fische, like as y yow belight. ' Wraw, froward, ongoodly. Perversus . . exasperans. Pr. Parv. 2 for whan, when. 3 A kind of vinegar; A.S. eisile, vinegar; given to Christ on the Cross. Escrevisse f. A Creuice, or Crayfish [see 1. 618]; (By some Authors, but not so properly, the Crab-fish is also tearmed so.) Escrevisse de mer. A Lobster; or, (more properly) a Sea-Creuice. Cotgrave. A Crevice, or a Crefish, or as some write it, a Crevis Fish, are in all respects the same in form, and are a Species of the Lobster, but of a lesser size, and the head is set more into the body of the Crevice than in the Lobster. Some call this a Ganwell. R. Holme, p. 338, col. 1, § xxx. Pare awey þe red skyñ for dyuers cawse & dowt, in and make clene pe place also / pat ye calle his clean out the gowt gowt,1 608 hit lies in þe myddes of pe bak / looke ye pike the middle of the it owt; sea Crayfish's areise hit by pe pyknes of a grote pe fische tear it off the fish, rownd abowt. put it in a dische leese by lees 2/ & þat ye not forgete to put vinegre to be same / so it towche not pe and put vinegar mete; to it; 612 breke pe gret clawes youre self ye nede no break the claws cooke to trete, and set them on Set þem on pe table / ye maywith-owt any the table. maner heete. The bak of pe Crevise, pus he must be sted: array hym as ye dothe/ pe crabbe, if þat any be had, Treat the back like the crab, 616 and bope endes of pe shelle / Stoppe them fast stopping both with bred, & serue / youre souereyn þer with / as he likethe to be fedd. Of Crevis dewe dou33 Cut his bely a-way, be fische in A dische clenly pat ye lay ends with bread. [Fol. 180.] The fresh-water powder. 620 with vineger & powdur þer vppoñ, þus is vsed ay, with vinegar and þañ youre souerayne / whañ hym semethe, sadly he may assay. 1 No doubt the intestinal tract, running along the middle of the body and tail. Dr Günther. Of Crevisses and Shrimps, Muffett says, p. 177, they "give also a kind of exercise for such as be weak: for head and brest must first be divided from their bodies; then each of them must be dis scaled, and clean picked with much pidling; then the long gut lying along the back of the Crevisse is to be voided." 2 slice by slice. 3 The fresh-water crayfish is beautiful eating, Dr Günther says. Salt Sturgeon: slit its joll, or head, thin. Whelk: cut off its head and tail, throw away its operculum, mantle, &c., cut it in two, and put it on the sturgeon, adding vinegar. Carve Baked Lampreys thus: take off the piecrust, put thin slices of bread on a Dish, pour galentyne over the bread, add cinnamon and red wine. The Iolle' of pe salt sturgeoun/thyn / take hede ye slytt, & rownd about þe dische dresse ye musteñ hit. 624 pe whelke2/looke pat pe hed / and tayle awey be kytt, his pyntill3 & gutt / almond & mantille, awey per fro ye pitt; Then kut ye be whelk asondur, even pecis two, and ley pe pecis perof/vppoñ youre sturgeoun so, 628 rownd all abowt pe disch / while pat hit wille go; put vinegre per-vppoñ / pe bettur þañ wille hit do. Fresche lamprey bake 5 / pus it must be dight: Open þe pastey lid, per-in to haue a sight, 632 Take pen white bred þyñ y-kut & lizt, lay hit in a chargere / dische, or plater, ryght; with a spone pen take owt pe gentille galantyne,6 In pe dische, on pe bred / ley hit, lemmañ myne, 636 þen take powdur of Synamome, & temper hit with red wyne : 'Iolle of a fysshe, teste. Palsgrave. Ioll, as of salmon, &c., caput. Gouldm. in Promptorium, p. 264. 2 For to make a potage of welkes, Liber Cure, p. 17. "Perwinkles or Whelks, are nothing but sea-snails, feeding upon the finest mud of the shore and the best weeds." Muffett, p. 164. 3 Pintle generally means the penis; but Dr Günther says the whelk has no visible organs of generation, though it has a projecting tube by which it takes in water, and the function of this might have been misunderstood. Dr G. could suggest nothing for almond, but on looking at the drawing of the male Whelk (Buccinum nudatum) creeping, in the Penny Cyclopædia, v. 9, p. 454, col. 2 (art. Entomostomata), it is quite clear that the almond must mean the animal's horny, oval operculum on its hinder part. 'Most spiral shells have an operculum, or lid, with which to close the aperture when they withdraw for shelter. It is developed on a particular lobe at the posterior part of the foot, and consists of horny layers, sometimes hardened with shelly matter.' Woodward's Mollusca, p. 47. 4 That part of the integument of mollusca which contains the viscera and secretes the shell, is termed the mantle. Woodward. 5 Recipe "For lamprays baken," in Liber Cure, p. 38. 6 A sauce made of crumbs, galingale, ginger, salt, and vinegar. See the Recipe in Liber Cure, p. 30. |