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520 Gely, mortrows/creyme of almondes, pe mylke2 mortrewes, per-of is good fare.

Iusselle 3, tartlett, cabages, & nombles 6

vennure,7

alle þese potages ar good and sure.

of jussell, &c., are

of oper sewes & potages pat ar not made by nature, 524 alle Suche siropis sett a side youre heere to endure.

good.

Other out-of-the

way soups

set aside.

Now, soñ, y haue yow shewid somewhat of myne Such is a

avise,

flesh feast in the

be service of a flesche feest folowynge englondis English way.

gise;

Forgete ye not my loore / but looke ye bere good

yzes

528 vрpon oрur connynge kervers: now haue y told yow twise.

Diuerce Sawces.

Sauces.

lso to know youre sawces for flesche conveni- Sauces provoke

Als

ently,

hit provokithe a fyne apetide if sawce youre a fine appetite.

mete be bie;

to the lust of youre lord looke pat ye haue per Have ready

redy

1 Recipes for 'Mortrewes de Chare,' Lib. C. p. 9; of fysshe,' p.

19; blanched, p. 13; and H. Ord. pp. 438, 454, 470.

Butter of Almonde mylke, Lib. C. p. 15; H. Ord. p. 447.

3 See the recipe, p. 58 of this volume.

4 Recipe for Tartlotes in Lib. C. C. p. 41.

5 Recipe for Cabaches in H. Ord. p. 426, and caboches, p. 454, both the vegetable. There is a fish caboche in the 15th cent. Nominale in Wright's Vocab. Hic caput, Ae. Caboche, p. 189, col. 1, the bullhead, or miller's thumb, called in French chabot.

See two recipes for Nombuls in Liber Cure, p. 10, and for 'Nombuls of a Dere,' in H. Ord. p. 427.

7 The long and curl for e in the MS. look like f, as if for vennuf.

* For Sauces (Salsamenta) see Part II. of Liber Cure, p. 27-34.

Mustard for

brawn, &c.,

Verjuice for veal, &c.,

Chawdon for

cygnet and swan,

Garlic, &c., for beef and goose,

Ginger for fawn, &c.,

Mustard and sugar for pheasant, &c., Gamelyn for heronsew, &c.,

Sugar and Salt for brew, &c.,

532 suche sawce as hym likethe /to make hym glad &

mery.

Mustard is meete for brawne / beef, or powdred2

motoun;

verdius 3 to boyled capoun / veel / chiken /or bakoñ; And to signet & swan, convenyent is pe chawdon 1;

536 Roost beeff/ & goos with garlek, vinegre, or
pepur, in conclusioun.

Gynger sawce to lambe, to kyd pigge, or
5 /
fawn in fere;
/

to feysand, partriche, or cony / Mustard with pe

sugure;

6

Sawce gamelyn to heyron-sewe / egret / crane / & plovere ;

540 also brewe7 / Curlew sugre & salt / with watere of pe ryvere;

1 Recipe for lumbardus Mustard' in Liter Cure, p. 30. 2 Fleshe poudred or salted. Caro salsa, vel salita. Withals. 3 The juice of unripe grapes. See Maison Rustique, p. 620. 4 Chaudwyn, 1. 688 below. See a recipe for "Chaudern for Swannes" in Household Ordinances, p. 441; and for "pandon (MS. chaudon *) for wylde digges, swannus and piggus," in Liber Cure, p. 9, and "Sawce for swannus," Ibid, p. 29. It was made of chopped liver and entrails boiled with blood, bread, wine, vinegar, pepper, cloves, and ginger.

5 See the recipe "To make Gynger Sause" in H. Ord. p. 441, and "For sawce gynger," L. C. C. p. 52.

6 No doubt the "sawce fyne þat men calles camelyne" of Liber Cure, p. 30, raysons of corouns,' nuts, bread crusts, cloves, ginger, cinnamon, powdered together and mixed with vinegar. Camelin, sauce cameline, A certaine daintie Italian sauce." Cot. 7 A bird mentioned in Archæologia, xiii. 341. Hall. See note 1. 422.

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*Sloane 1986, p. 48, or fol. 27 b. It is not safe to differ from Mr Morris, but on comparing the C of Chaudoñ for swannis,' col. 1, with that of Caudelle of almonde,' at the top of the second col., I have no doubt that the letter is C. So on fol. 31 b. the C of Chaudon is more like the C of Charlet opposite than the T of Take under it. The C of Caudel dalmon on fol. 34 b., and that of Cultellis, fol. 24, 1. 5, are of the same shape.

2

bustard, &c.,

Also for bustard / betowre & shovelere, Gamelyn for
gamelyn is in sesoun;
Wodcok/lapewynk/ Mertenet / larke, & venysoun, Salt and Cinna-
Sparows/thrusches / alle pese .vij. with salt & cock, thrushes,

synamome:

mon for wood

&c.,

544 Quayles, sparowes, & snytes, whañ þeire sesoun and quails, &c.

com,3

Thus to provoke an appetide pe Sawce hathe is

operacioun.

Kerbyng of Fische.

Now, good son, of kervynge of fysche y wot y

must be leere:

To peson5 or frumeñty take pe tayle of pe bevere,

:

6

1 Shovelars feed most commonly upon the Sea-coast upon cockles and Shell-fish being taken home, and dieted with new garbage and good meat, they are nothing inferior to fatted Gulls. Muffett, p. 109. Hic populus, a schevelard (the anas clypeata of naturalists). Wright's Voc., p. 253.

2 See note 6 to line 539, above.

Is not this line superfluous? After 135 stanzas of 4 lines each, we here come to one of 5 lines. I suspect 1. 544 is simply de trop. W. W. Skeat.

For the fish in the Poem mentioned by Yarrell, and for references to him, see the list at the end of this Boke of Nurture.

5

Recipes for "Grene Pesen" are in H. Ord. p. 426-7, p. 470; and Porre of Pesen, &c. p. 444.

6 Topsell in his Fourfooted Beasts, ed. Rowland, 1658, p. 36, says of Beavers, "There hath been taken of them whose tails have weighed four pound weight, and they are accounted a very delicate dish, for being dressed they eat like Barbles: they are used by the Lotharingians and Savoyans [says Bellonius] for meat allowed to be eaten on fish-dayes, although the body that beareth them be flesh and unclean for food. The manner of their dressing is, first roasting, and afterward seething in an open pot, that so the evill vapour may go away, and some in pottage made with Saffron ; other with Ginger, and many with Brine; it is certain that the tail and forefeet taste very sweet, from whence came the Proverbe, That sweet is that fish, which is not fish at all."

How to carve
Fish.

With pea soup or furmity serve a Beaver's

tail, salt Porpoise, &c.

Split up Herrings,

take out the roe and bones,

eat with mustard.

Take the skin off salt fish,

Salmon, Ling, &c.,

and let the sauce be mustard,

548 or 3iff ye haue salt purpose1 / 3ele2 / torrentille3, deynteithus fulle dere,

ye must do afture pe forme of frumenty, as y said while ere.

Baken herynge, dressid & dizt with white sugure; pe white herynge by pe bak a brode ye splat hym

sure,

552 bothe roughe & boonus / voyded/peñ may youre

lorde endure

to ete merily with mustard pat tyme to his plesure.
Of alle maner salt fische, looke ye pare awey the
felle,

Salt samoun/Congur, grone 5 fische / bope lynge 6
& myllewelle7,

556 & on youre soueraynes trencheur ley hit, as y yow telle.

pe sawce per-to, good mustard, alway accordethe welle.

1 See the recipe for "Furmente with Purpeys," H. Ord. p. 442. 2 I suppose this to be Seal. If it is Eel, see recipes for "Eles in Surre, Browet, Gravê, Brasyle," in H. Ord. p. 467-8.

:

3 Wynkyn de Worde has 'a salte purpos or sele turrentyne.' If this is right, torrentille must apply to zele, and be a species of seal if not, it must be allied to the Trout or Torrentyne, l. 835. 4 Congur in Pyole, H. Ord. p. 469. 'I must needs agree with Diocles, who being asked, whether were the better fish, a Pike or a Conger: That (said he) sodden, and this broild; shewing us thereby, that all flaggy, slimy and moist fish (as Eeles, Congers, Lampreys, Oisters, Cockles, Mustles, and Scallopes) are best broild, rosted or bakt; but all other fish of a firm substance and drier constitution is rather to be sodden.' Muffett, p. 145.

5 So MS., but grone may mean green, see 1. 851 and note to it. If not for Fr. gronan, a gurnard. The Scotch crowner is a species of gurnard.

6 Lynge, fysshe, Colin, Palsgrave; but Colin, a Sea-cob, or Gull. Cotgrave. See Promptorium, p. 296.

7 Fr. Merlus ou Merluz, A Mellwell, or Keeling, a kind of small Cod whereof Stockfish is made. Cotgrave. And see Prompt. Parv. p. 348, note 4. "Cod-fish is a great Sea-whiting, called also a Keeling or Melwel." Bennett's Muffett on Food, p. 148.

Saltfysche, stokfische / merlynge2 / makerelle, but- but for Mackarel,

&c., butter

tur ye may with swete buttur of Claynos 3 or els of hakenay, of Claynes or 560 þe boonus, skynnes /& fynnes, furst y-fette a-way,

þen sett youre dische pere as youre souereyn may
tast & assay.

Pike, to youre souereyn y wold þat it be layd,
þe wombe is best, as y haue herd it saide,
564 Fysche & skyn to-gedir be hit convaied

Hackney.(?)

Of Pike, the belly

is best,

with pike sawce y-noughe per-to / & hit shalle not with plenty of be denayd.

5

sauce.

The salt lamprey, gobeñ hit a slout .vij. pecis y Salt Lampreys,

assigne;

pañ pike owt þe boonus nyze pe bak spyne,

1 Cogan says of stockfish, "Concerning which fish I will say no more than Erasmus hath written in his Colloquio. There is a kind of fishe, which is called in English Stockfish: it nourisheth no more than a stock. Yet I haue eaten of a pie made onely with Stockefishe, whiche hath been verie good, but the goodnesse was not so much in the fishe as in the cookerie, which may make that sauorie, which of it selfe is vnsavourie.. it is sayd a good Cooke can make you good meate of a whetstone. . . Therfore a good Cooke is a good iewell, and to be much made of." "Stockfish whilst it is unbeaten is called Buckhorne, because it is so tough; when it is beaten upon the stock, it is termed stockfish." Muffett. Lord Percy (A.D. 1512) was to have "cxl Stok fisch for the expensys of my house for an hole Yere, after ij.d. obol. the pece," p. 7, and "Dececxlij Salt fisch.. after iiij the pece," besides 9 barrels of white and 10 cades of red herring, 5 cades of Sprats (sprootis), 400 score salt salmon, 3 firkins of salt sturgeon and 5 cags of salt eels.

2 Fr. Merlan, a Whiting, a Merling. Cot. The best Whitings are taken in Tweede, called Merlings, of like shape and vertue with ours, but far bigger.' Muffett, p. 174.

3 MS. may be Cleynes. ? what place can it be; Clayness, Claynose? Claybury is near Woodford in Essex.

A recipe for Pykes in Brasey is in H. Ord. p. 451. The head of a Carp, the tail of a Pike, and the Belly of a Bream are most esteemed for their tenderness, shortness, and well rellishing. Muffett, p. 177.

5 Cut it in gobets or lumps a-slope. "Aslet or a-slowte (asloppe, a slope), Oblique." P. Parv. But slout may be slot, bolt of a door, and so aslout = - in long strips.

cut in seven
gobbets,

pick out the back-
bones,

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