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and alle þat byñ cold / & lusteth youre souereyn to cold ones

note,

480 alwey in pe mydway open hem ye mote.

Of capon, chiken, or teele, in coffyn bake,
Owt of pe pye furst þat ye hem take,
In a dische besyde / pat ye pe whyngus slake,
484 thynk' y-mynsed in to þe same with your knyfe ye

Venesoun bake, of boor or othur venure,

Kut it in pe pastey, & ley hit on his trenchure. Pуgeon bake, pe leggis leid to youre lord sure, 492 Custard,2 chekkid buche,3 square with pe knyfe; pus is pe cure

1 for thin; see line 486.

2 ? A dish of batter somewhat like our Yorkshire Pudding; not the Crustade or pie of chickens, pigeons, and small birds of the Household Ordinances, p. 442, and Crustate of flesshe of Liber Cure, p. 40.

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3 ? buche de bois. A logge, backe stocke, or great billet. Cot. I suppose the buche to refer to the manner of checkering the custard, buche-wise, and not to be a dish. Venison is chekkid,' 1. 388-9. This rendering is confirmed by The Boke of Keruynge's "Custarde, cheke them inch square" (in Keruynge of Flesshe). Another possible rendering of buche as a dish of batter or the like, seems probable from the 'Bouce Jane, a dish in Ancient Cookery' (Wright's Provl. Dicty), but the recipe for it in Household Ordinances, p. 431, shows that it was a stew, which could not be checkered or squared. It consisted of milk boiled with chopped herbs, half-roasted chickens or capons cut into pieces, 'pynes and raysynges of corance,' all boiled together. In Household Ordinances, p. 162-4, Bouche, or Bouche of court, is used for allowance. The Knights and others of the King's Councell,' &c., had each

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in the middle.

Take Teal, &c., ont of their pie,

slake,

And stere welle pe stuff per-in with pe poynt of stir the gravy in; your knyfe;

Mynse ye thynne pe whyngis, be it in to veele or

byffe ;

with a spone lightely to ete your souerayne may your lord may eat

it with a spoon.

be leeff,

488 So with suche diet as is holsom he may lengthe

his life.

and mince their wings,

[Fol. 178.] Cut Venison, &c., in the pasty.

Custard cut in squares with a knife.

Dowcets: pare away the sides;

serve in a

sawcer.

Payne-puff: pare

the bottom,

cut off the top.

(? parneys)

Fried things are indigestible.

þañ þe souerayne, with his spone whañ he lustethe

to ete.

of dowcetes, pare awey the sides to pe botom, & pat ye lete,

In a sawcere afore youre souerayne semely ye hit sett 496 whañ hym likethe to atast: looke ye not forgete.

Payne puff, pare pe botom nyze pe stuff, take hede,
Kut of pe toppe of a payne puff, do thus as y rede;
Also pety perueys be fayre and clene / so god be
youre spede.

500 off Fryed metes1 be ware, for þey ar Fumose in dede.

'for their Bouch in the morning one chet loafe, one manchet, one gallon of ale; for afternoone, one manchett, one gallon of ale; for after supper, one manchett, &c.'

1 See the recipe, p. 60 of this volume. In Sir John Howard's Household Books is an entry in 1467, 'for viij boshelles of flour for dowsetes vj s. viij d.' p. 396, ed. 1841.

2 The last recipe in The Forme of Cury, p. 89, is one for Payn Puff, but as it refers to the preceding receipt, that is given first here.

XX

THE PETY PERUAUNT.

IX.XV.[=195] Take male Marow. hole parade, and kerue it rawe; powdour of Gyngur, yolkis of Ayrene, datis mynced, raisons of corañce, salt a lytel, & loke þat þou make by past with 3olkes of Ayren, & þat no water come perto; and fourme þy coffyn, and make up by past.

XX

PAYN PUFF

IX.XVI[=196] Eodem modo fait payn puff. but make it more tendre pe past, and loke pe past be rounde of pe payn puf as a coffyn & a pye.

Randle Holme treats of Puffe, Puffs, and Pains, p. 84, col. 1, 2, but does not mention Payn Puff. Payn puffe, and pety-pettys, and cuspis and doucettis,' are mentioned among the last dishes of a service on Flessh-Day (H. Ord., p. 450), but no recipe for either is given in the book.

3 In lines 707, 748, the pety perueys come between the fish and pasties. I cannot identify them as fish. I suppose they were pies, perhaps The Pety Peruaunt of note 2 above; or better still, the fish-pies, Petipetes (or pely-pettys of the last note), which Randle Holme says 'are Pies made of Carps and Eels, first roasted, and then minced, and with Spices made up in Pies.'

4 De cibi eleccione. (Sloane MS. 1986, fol. 59 b, and else. where.) "Frixa nocent, elixa fouent, assata cohercent."

* Glossed Petypanel, a Marchpayne. Leland, Coll. vi. p. 6. Pegge.

Fried metes.

Fruture viant/ Frutur sawge,' byñ good / Poached-egg ( bettur is Frutur powche;

fritters are best.

Appulle fruture2/ is good hoot / but pe cold ye not

towche.

Tansey3 is good hoot / els cast it not in youre Tansey is good

hot.

clowche.

504 alle maner of leesse34/ ye may forbere / herbere in Don't eat Leessez.

yow none sowche.

Cookes with peire newe conceytes, choppynge

stampynge, & gryndynge,

Many new curies / alle day þey ar contryvynge
& Fyndynge

pat provokethe pe peple to perelles of passage/ þrouz peyne soore pyndynge, 508 & prouz nice excesse of suche receytes of pe life to make a endynge.

Some with Sireppis 5 / Sawces / Sewes, and
soppes,7

1

Meat, sage, & poached, fritters?

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2 Recipe in L. Cure, p. 39. There is a recipe for a Tansy Cake' in Lib. C., p. 50. Cogan says of Tansie, "it auoideth fleume. . . Also it killeth worms, and purgeth the matter whereof they be engendred. Wherefore it is much vsed among vs in England, about Easter, with fried Egs, not without good cause, to purge away the fleume engendred of fish in Lent season, whereof worms are soone bred in them that be thereto disposed." Tansey, says Bailey (Dict. Domesticum) is recommended for the dissipating of wind in the stomach and belly. He gives the recipe for 'A Tansy' made of spinage, milk, cream, eggs, grated bread and nutmeg, heated till it's as thick as a hasty pudding, and then baked.

Slices or strips of meat, &c., in sauce. See note to 1. 516, p. 150.

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5 Recipe For Sirup,' Liber Cure, p. 43, and 'Syrip for a Capon or Faysant,' H. Ord. p. 440.

6 potages, soups.

Soppes in Fenell, Slitte Soppes, H. Ord. p. 445.

Cooks are always

inventing new dishes

that tempt people

and endanger their lives:

Syrups,

Comedies,

Jellies, that stop

the bowels.

Some dishes are

prepared with unclarified honey.

Cow-heels and Calves' feet are sometimes mixed

with unsugared leches and Jellies.

[Fol. 178 b.]

Furmity with venison,

Comedies Cawdelles cast in Cawdrons

ponnes, or pottes,
leesses/Ielies2/Fruturs / fried mete þat stoppes
512 and distemperethe alle pe body, bothe bak,
bely, & roppes :3

Some maner cury of Cookes crafft Sotelly y
haue espied,

how þeire dischmetes ar dressid with hony not
claryfied.

Cow heelis/ and Calves fete / ar dere y-bouzt
some tide

516 To medille amonge leeches & Ielies / whañ
suger shalle syt a-side.

Len-voy

Dotages.

Wortus with an henne / Cony / beef, or els añ

haare,

Frumenty with venesoun / pesyn with bakoñ,
longe wortes not spare;

Growelle of force' / Gravelle of beeff / or motoun,
haue ye no care;

1 Recipe for a Cawdel, L. C. C. p. 51.

2 Recipes for Gele in Chekyns or of Hennes, and Gele of Flesshe, H. Ord. p. 437.

3 A.S. roppas, the bowels.

4 "leeche" is a slice or strip, H. Ord. p. 472 (440), p. 456 (399)-'cut hit on leches as hit were pescoddes,' p. 439,-and also a stew or dish in which strips of pork, &c., are cooked. See Leche Lumbarde, H. Ord. p. 438-9. Fr. lesche, a long slice or shiue of bread, &c. Cot. Hie lesca Ae, scywe (shive or slice), Wright's Vocab. p. 198: hec lesca, a schyfe, p. 241. See also Mr Way's long note 1, Prompt. Parv., p. 292, and the recipes for 64 different "Leche vyaundys" in MS. Harl. 279, that he refers to. 5 For Potages see Part I. of Liber Cure Cocorum, p. 7—27. Recipe for Potage de Frumenty in H. Ord. p. 425, and for Furmente in Liber Cure, p. 7, H. Ord. 462.

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7 Recipe For gruel of fors,' Lib. C. p. 47, and H. Ord. p. 425. minced or powdered beef: Fr. gravelle, small grauell or sand. Cot.Powdred motoun,' 1. 533, means sprinkled, salted.

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520 Gely, mortrows / creyme of almondes, pe mylke mortrewes, per-of is good fare.

alle þese potages ar good and sure.

of oper sewes & potages pat ar not made by nature, 524 alle Suche siropis sett a side youre heere to endure.

Iusselle 3, tartlett, cabages, & nombles 6 of jussell, &c., are vennure,7

good.

1

yzes

528 vрpon oрur connynge kervers: now haue y told yow twise.

Now, soñ, y haue yow shewid somewhat of myne Such is a

avise,

flesh feast in the

þe service of a flesche feest folowynge englondis English way. gise;

Forgete ye not my loore / but looke ye bere good

Recipes for 'Mortrewes de Chare,' Lib. C. p. 9; 'of fysshe,' p.

19; blanched, p. 13; and H. Ord. pp. 438, 454, 470.

Butter of Almonde mylke, Lib. C. p. 15; H. Ord. p. 447.

3 See the recipe, p. 58 of this volume.

Diuerce Sawces.

A

lso to know youre sawces for flesche conveni- Sauces provoke ently,

hit provokithe a fyne apetide if sawce youre a fine appetite. mete be bie;

Other out-of-the

way soups

set aside.

to the lust of youre lord looke pat ye haue per Have ready redy

Recipe for Tartlotes in Lib. C. C. p. 41.

5 Recipe for Cabaches in H. Ord. p. 426, and caboches, p. 454, both the vegetable. There is a fish caboche in the 15th cent. Nominale in Wright's Vocab. Hic caput, Ae, Caboche, p. 189, col. 1, the bullhead, or miller's thumb, called in French chabot.

See two recipes for Nombuls in Liber Cure, p. 10, and for 'Nombuls of a Dere,' in H. Ord. p. 427.

The long r and curl for e in the MS. look like f, as if for vennuf.

For Sauces (Salsamenta) see Part II. of Liber Cure, p. 27-34.

Sauces.

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