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Cut each piece into four slices (?)

for your master to dip in his sauce.

Of large birds' wings,

put only three

bits at once in the sauce.

Of small birds' wings,

scrape the flesh to

the end of the bone,

and put it on your lord's trencher.

464 as ye se / and by vse of youre self / ye may gete yow loos.

But furpermore enforme yow y must in metis kervynge;

Mynse ye must iiij lees' / to oon morselle hangynge, þat youre mastir may take with .ij. fyngurs in his sawce dippynge,

468 and so no napkyn / brest, ne borclothe2, in any wise enbrowynge.

Of gret fowle/in to pe sawce mynse be whynge this wise;

pas not .iij. morcelles in pe sawce at onis, as y yow avise;

To youre souerayne pe gret fowles legge ley, as is þe

gise,

472 and pus mowe ye neuer mysse of alle connynge

seruise.

Of alle maner smale bryddis, pe whyngis on þe trencher leyinge,

with pe poynt of youre knyfe / pe flesche to pe boon end ye brynge,

and so conveye hit on pe trenchere, þat wise your souerayne plesynge,

476 and with faire salt & trenchoure / hym also oft

renewynge.

How to carve

Baked Meats.

Open hot ones at

the top of the crust,

Bake metes.

Almanere bakemetes þat byñ good and hoot,
Open hem aboue pe brym of pe coffyncote,

1 slices, or rather strips.

2 board-cloth, table-cloth.

3 Part IV. of Liber Cure Cocorum, p. 38-42, is ' of bakun mete.' On Dishes and Courses generally, see Randle Holme, Bk. III. Chap. III. p. 77-86.

4 rere a cofyn of flowre so fre. L. C. C., p. 38, 1. 8. The crust of a raised pie.

and alle þat byn cold / & lusteth youre souereyñ to cold ones

note,

480 alwey in þe mydway open hem ye mote.

Of capon, chikeñ, or teele, in coffyn bake,
Owt of pe pye furst þat ye hem take,

In a dische besyde / þat ye pe whyngus slake,

484 thynk' y-mynsed in to pe same with your knyfe ye

slake,

in the middle.

Take Teal, &c., ont of their pie,

and mince their wings,

And stere welle pe stuff per-in with pe poynt of stir the gravy in; your knyfe;

Mynse ye thynne pe whyngis, be it in to veele or

byffe ;

with a spone lightely to ete your souerayne may your lord may eat

be leeff,

488 So with suche diet as is holsom he may lengthe

his life.

Venesoun bake, of boor or othur venure,

Kut it in pe pastey, & ley hit on his trenchure. Pуgeon bake, pe leggis leid to youre lord sure, 492 Custard, chekkid buche,3 square with pe knyfe; pus is pe cure

1 for thin; see line 486.

2? A dish of batter somewhat like our Yorkshire Pudding; not the Crustade or pie of chickens, pigeons, and small birds of the Household Ordinances, p. 442, and Crustate of flesshe of Liber Cure, p. 40.

I

3 ? buche de bois. A logge, backe stocke, or great billet. Cot. suppose the buche to refer to the manner of checkering the custard, buche-wise, and not to be a dish. Venison is chekkid,' 1. 388-9. This rendering is confirmed by The Boke of Keruynge's "Custarde, cheke them inch square" (in Keruynge of Flesshe). Another possible rendering of buche as a dish of batter or the like, seems probable from the Bouce Jane, a dish in Ancient Cookery' (Wright's Provl. Dicty), but the recipe for it in Household Ordinances, p. 431, shows that it was a stew, which could not be checkered or squared. It consisted of milk boiled with chopped herbs, half-roasted chickens or capons cut into pieces, 'pynes and raysynges of corance,' all boiled together. In Household Ordinances, p. 162-4, Bouche, or Bouche of court, is used for allowance. The Knights and others of the King's Councell,' &c., had each

it with a spoon.

[Fol. 178.] Cut Venison, &c., in the pasty.

Custard cut in squares with a knife.

Dowcets: pare away the sides;

serve in a

sawcer.

Payne-puff: pare

the bottom,

cut off the top.

(? parneys)

Fried things are indigestible.

þañ þe souerayne, with his spone whañ he lustethe

to ete.

of dowcetes, pare awey the sides to pe botom, & pat ye lete,

In a sawcere afore youre souerayne semely ye hit sett 496 whan hym likethe to atast: looke ye not forgete.

Payne puff, pare pe botom nyze pe stuff, take hede,
Kut of pe toppe of a payne puff, do thus as y rede;
Also pety perueys be fayre and clene / so god be

youre spede.

3

500 off Fryed metes1 be ware, for þey ar Fumose in dede.

'for their Bouch in the morning one chet loafe, one manchet, one gallon of ale; for afternoone, one manchett, one gallon of ale; for after supper, one manchett, &c.'

1 See the recipe, p. 60 of this volume. In Sir John Howard's Household Books is an entry in 1467, 'for viij boshelles of flour for dowsetes vj s. viij d.' p. 396, ed. 1841.

2 The last recipe in The Forme of Cury, p. 89, is one for Payn Puff, but as it refers to the preceding receipt, that is given first

here.

THE PETY PERUAUNT.*

XX

IX.XV.[=195] Take male Marow. hole parade, and kerue it rawe; powdour of Gyngur, yolkis of Ayrene, datis mynced, raisons of corañce, salt a lytel, & loke þat þou make þy past with 30lkes of Ayren, & þat no water come perto; and fourme by coffyn, and make up þy past.

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Eodem modo fait payn puff. but make it more tendre pe past, and loke pe past be rounde of pe payn puf as a coffyn & a pye.

Randle Holme treats of Puffe, Puffs, and Pains, p. 84, col. 1, 2, but does not mention Payn Puff. Payn puffe, and pety-pettys, and cuspis and doucettis,' are mentioned among the last dishes of a service on Flessh-Day (H. Ord., p. 450), but no recipe for either is given in the book.

3 In lines 707, 748, the pety perueys come between the fish and pasties. I cannot identify them as fish. I suppose they were pies, perhaps The Pety Peruaunt of note 2 above; or better still, the fish-pies, Petipetes (or pely-pettys of the last note), which Randle Holme says 'are Pies made of Carps and Eels, first roasted, and then minced, and with Spices made up in Pies.'

4 De cibi eleccione. (Sloane MS. 1986, fol. 59 b, and else where.) "Frixa nocent, elixa fouent, assata cohercent."

* Glossed Petypanel, a Marchpayne. Leland, Coll. vi. p. 6. Pegge.

Fried metes.

0 Fruture viant / Frutur sawge,' byñ good / Poached-egg (?) bettur is Frutur powche ;1

Appulle fruture2/ is good hoot / but pe cold ye not

towche.

fritters are best.

Tansey is good hoot / els cast it not in youre Tansey is good

clowche.

hot.

504 alle maner of leesse34 / ye may forbere / herbere in Don't eat Leessez.

yow none sowche.

Cookes with peire newe conceytes, choppynge/

stampynge, & gryndynge,

Many new curies / alle day þey ar contryvynge

& Fyndynge

pat provokethe pe peple to perelles of passage/
prouz peyne soore pyndynge,

508 & prouz nice excesse of suche receytes / of pe
life to make a endynge.

Some with Sireppis 5 / Sawces / Sewes, and
soppes,7

1 Meat, sage, & poached, fritters?

2 Recipe in L. Cure, p. 39.

There is a recipe for a Tansy Cake' in Lib. C., p. 50. Cogan says of Tansie, "it auoideth fleume. . . Also it killeth worms, and purgeth the matter whereof they be engendred. Wherefore it is much vsed among vs in England, about Easter, with fried Egs, not without good cause, to purge away the fleume engendred of fish in Lent season, whereof worms are soone bred in them that be thereto disposed." Tansey, says Bailey (Dict. Domesticum) is recommended for the dissipating of wind in the stomach and belly. He gives the recipe for 'A Tansy' made of spinage, milk, cream, eggs, grated bread and nutmeg, heated till it's as thick as a hasty pudding, and then baked.

4 Slices or strips of meat, &c., in sauce.

p. 150.

See note to 1. 516,

5 Recipe For Sirup,' Liber Cure, p. 43, and Syrip for a Capon

or Faysant,' H. Ord. p. 440.

6 potages, soups.

7 Soppes in Fenell, Slitte Soppes, H. Ord. p. 415.

Cooks are always

inventing new dishes

that tempt people

and endanger their lives:

Syrups,

Comedies,

Jellies, that stop

the bowels.

Some dishes are

prepared with unclarified honey.

Cow-heels and

Calves' feet are

sometimes mixed

with unsugared

leches and Jellies.

[Fol. 178 b.]

Furmity with venison,

Comedies Cawdelles' cast in Cawdrons

ponnes, or pottes,
leesses/Ielies2/Fruturs/fried mete pat stoppes
512 and distemperethe alle pe body, bothe bak,
bely, & roppes :3

Some maner cury of Cookes crafft Sotelly y
haue espied,

how þeire dischmetes ar dressid with hony not
claryfied.

Cow heelis/ and Calves fete / ar dere y-bouzt

some tide

516 To medille amonge leeches & Ielies / whañ
suger shalle syt a-side.

Potages.

Len-voy

Wortus with an henne / Cony / beef, or els añ

haare,

Frumenty with venesoun / pesyñ with bakoñ, longe wortes not spare;

Growelle of force/Gravelle of beeff8/ or motoun, haue ye no care;

1 Recipe for a Cawdel, L. C. C. p. 51.

2 Recipes for Gele in Chekyns or of Hennes, and Gele of Flesshe, H. Ord. p. 437.

3 A.S. roppas, the bowels.

4 "leeche" is a slice or strip, H. Ord. p. 472 (440), p. 456 (399)-'cut hit on leches as hit were pescoddes,' p. 439,-and also a stew or dish in which strips of pork, &c., are cooked. See Leche Lumbarde, H. Ord. p. 438-9. Fr. lesche, a long slice or shiue of bread, &c. Cot. Hie lesca Ae, scywe (shive or slice), Wright's Vocab. p. 198: hec lesca, a schyfe, p. 241. See also Mr Way's long note 1, Prompt. Parv., p. 292, and the recipes for 64 different "Leche vyaundys" in MS. Harl. 279, that he refers to.

5 For Potages see Part I. of Liber Cure Cocorum, p. 7—27. 6 Recipe for Potage de Frumenty in H. Ord. p. 425, and for Furmente in Liber Cure, p. 7, H. Ord. 462.

7 Recipe 'For gruel of fors,' Lib. C. p. 47, and H. Ord. p. 425. 8 minced or powdered beef: Fr. gravelle, small grauell or sand. Cot.Powdred motoun,' 1. 533, means sprinkled, salted.

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