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looke pow haue tarrers' two / a more & lasse for two wine-augers,

wyne;

wyne canels accordynge to pe tarrers, of box fetice some box taps,

& fyne;

also a gymlet sharpe / to broche & perce / sone to a broaching

turne & twyne,

gimlet,

68 with fawcets & tampyne' redy / to stoppe when ye a pipe and bung.

se tyme.

So when pow settyst a pipe abroche / good [sone,] To broach a pipe,

do aftur my lore:

iiij fyngur ouer / pe nere chyne5 þow may percer or pierce it with an

bore;

with tarrere or gymlet perce ye vpward pe pipe ashore,

72 and so shalle ye not cawse pe lies vp to ryse, y

warne yow euer more.

auger or gimlet, four fingers

breadth over the

lower rim,

so that the dregs

may not rise.

Good sone, alle maner frute / pat longethe for seson Serve Fruit ac

cording to the

season,

of pe yere,
Fygges/reysons/ almandes, dates / buttur, chese 6 / figs, dates,

nottus, apples, & pere,

Compostes & confites, chare de quynces / white & quince-mar

grene gyngere;

1 An Augre, or wimble, wherewith holes are bored. Terebra & terebrum. Vng tarriere. Baret's Alvearie, 1580.

2 A Cannell or gutter. Canalis. Baret. Tuyau, a pipe, quill, cane, reed, canell. Cotgrave. Canelle, the faucet [1. 68] or quill of a wine vessel; also, the cocke, or spout of a conduit. Cot.

3A Faucet, or tappe, a flute, a whistle, a pipe as well to conueigh water, as an instrument of Musicke. Fistula .. Túbulus. Baret.

4 Tampon, a bung or stopple. Cot. Tampyon for a gontampon. Palsg.

5 The projecting rim of a cask. Queen Elizabeth's 'yeoman drawer hath for his fees, all the lees of wine within fowre fingers of the chine, &c.' H. Ord. p. 295, (referred to by Halliwell).

6? This may be butter-cheese, milk- or cream-cheese, as contrasted with the 'hard chese' l. 84-5; but butter is treated of separately, 1. 89.

7 Fruit preserves of some kind; not the stew of chickens, herbs, honey, ginger, &c., for which a recipe is given on p. 18 of Liber Cure Cocorum. Cotgrave has Composte: f. A condiment or compo

malade, ginger,

&c.

[Fol. 172.1 Before dinner,

plums and grapes;

after, pears, nuts, and hard cheese,

After supper, roast apples, &c.

76 and ffor aftur questyons, or by lord sytte / of hym pow know & enquere.

Serve fastynge/ plommys / damsons / cheries/ and grapis to plese;

aftur mete/peeres, nottys /strawberies, wyneberies,1 and hardchese,

also blawnderelles, pepyns / careawey in comfyte/ Compostes ar like to pese.

3

80 aftur sopper, rosted apples, peres, blaunche powder,1 your stomak for to ese.

sition; a wet sucket (wherein sweet wine was vsed in stead of sugar), also, a pickled or winter Sallet of hearbes, fruits, or flowers, condited in vinegar, salt, sugar, or sweet wine, and so keeping all the yeare long; any hearbes, fruit, or flowers in pickle; also pickle it selfe. Fr. compote, stewed fruit. The Recipe for Compost in the Forme of Cury, Recipe 100 (C), p. 49-50, is "Take rote of persel. pasternak of raseñs. scrape hem and waische hem clene. take rapis & cabochis ypared and icorne. take an erthen panne with clene water, & set it on the fire. cast all þise perinne. whan þey buth boiled, cast perto peeris, & parboile hem wel. take pise thyngis up, & lat it kele on a fair cloth, do perto salt whan it is colde in a vessel; take vinegur, & powdour, & safroun, & do perto, & lat alle pise pingis lye þerin al ny3t oþer al day, take wyne greke and hony clarified togidur, lumbarde mustard, & raisouns corance al hool. & grynde powdour of canel, powdour douce, & aneys hole. & fenell seed. take alle þise þingis, & cast togydur in a pot of erthe. and take þerof whan pou wilt, & serue forth."

1? not A.S. winberie, a wine-berry, a grape, but our Whinberry. But Wineberries, currants', Craven Gloss.; Sw. vin-bär, a currant.

2 Blandureau, m. The white apple, called (in some part of England) a Blaundrell. Cotgrave. 3 See note to 1. 75.

4 Pouldre blanche. A powder compounded of Ginger, Cinnamon, and Nutmegs; much in use among Cookes. Cotgrave. Is there any authority for the statement in Domestic Architecture, v. 1, p. 132; that sugar was sometimes called blanch powdre'? P.S.Probably the recollection of what Pegge says in the Preface to the Forme of Cury, "There is mention of blanch-powder or white sugar," 132 [p. 63]. They, however, were not the same, for see No. 193, p. xxvi-xxvii. On turning to the Recipe 132, of "Peeris in confyt," p. 62-3, we find "whan þei [the pears] buth ysode, take hem up, make a syrup of wyne greke. oþer vernage with blaunche powdur, oper white sugur, and powdour gyngur, & do the peris perin." It is needless to say that if a modern recipe said take

Bewar at eve*/ of crayme of cowe & also of the In the evening

goote, pauz it be late,

don't take cream,

[*'at eve' has a red mark through

of Strawberies & hurtilberyes / with the cold as if to cut it out]

Ioncate,1

For pese may marre many a mañ changynge his

astate,

strawberries, or junket,

84 but 3iff he haue aftur, hard chese / wafurs, with unless you eat wyne ypocrate.2

hard cheese with them.

keeps your bowels open.

hard chese hathe pis condicioun in his operacioun: Hard cheese
Furst he wille a stomak kepe in the botom open,
the helthe of euery creature ys in his condicioun ;
88 yf he diete hymn thus dayly/he is a good conclusioun.

buttir is an holsom mete / furst and eke last,1
For he wille a stomak kepe /& helpe poyson a-wey

to cast,

also he norishethe a mañ to be laske/ and evy

humerus to wast,

92 and with white bred/he wille kepe by mouthe in tast. 66 sugar or honey," sugar could not be said "to be sometimes called" honey. See Dawson Turner in Howard Houeshold Books.

1 Ioncade: f. A certaine spoone-meat made of creame, Rosewater and Sugar. Cotgrave.

See the recipe to make it, lines 121-76; and in Forme of Cury,

P. 161.

:

3 Muffett held a very different opinion. 'Old and dry cheese hurteth dangerously for it stayeth siege [stools], stoppeth the Liver, engendereth choler, melancholy, and the stone, lieth long in the stomack undigested, procureth thirst, maketh a stinking breath and a scurvy skin: Whereupon Galen and Isaac have well noted, That as we may feed liberally of ruin cheese, and more liberally of fresh Cheese, so we are not to taste any further of old and hard Cheese, then to close up the mouth of our stomacks after meat, p. 131.

4 In youth and old age. Muffett says, p. 129-30, "according to the old Proverb, Butter is Gold in the morning, Silver at noon, and Lead at night. It is also best for children whilst they are growing, and for old men when they are declining; but very unwholesom betwixt those two ages, because through the heat of young stomacks, it is forthwith converted into choler [bile]. The Dutchmen have a by-Verse amongst them to this effect

Eat Butter first, and eat it last,
And live till a hundred years be past.'

Butter is wholesome in youth and old age, antipoisonous,

and aperient.

Milk, Junket,

Posset, &c.,

are binding.

Eat hard cheese

after them.

Beware of green

meat; it weakens your belly.

For food that sets

your teeth on

edge, eat almonds and cheese,

Milke, crayme, and cruddes, and eke the Ioncate,' þey close a mannes stomak / and so dothe pe possate; perfore ete hard chese aftir, yef ye sowpe late,

96 and drynk romney modoun,2 for feere of chekmate.3 beware of saladis, grene metis, & of frutes rawe for þey make many a mañ haue a feble mawe. perfore, of suche fresch lustes set not an hawe, 100 For suche wantoun appetites ar not worth a strawe.

alle maner metis þat þy tethe oñ egge doth sette, take almondes perfore; & hard chese loke pou not for-gette.

hit wille voide hit awey / but looke to moche perof not pou ete;

but not more than 104 for þe wight of half an vnce with-owt rompney is

half an ounce.

If drinks have given you indi

gestion, eat a raw apple.

Moderation is

best sometimes, at others abstinence.

Look every night that your wines

don't ferment or

leak [the t of the

MS. has a k over it];

and wash the

heads of the pipes with cold water.

Always carry a gimlet, adze, and linen cloths,

gret.

3iff dyuerse drynkes of theire fumosite haue pe dis

sesid,

Ete an appulle rawe, & his fumosite wille be cesed ; mesure is a mery meene / whañ god is not displesed;

108 abstynens is to prayse what body & sowle ar plesed. Take good hede to be wynes / Red, white / & swete,

looke euery ny3t with a Candelle þat þey not reboyle/nor lete;

euery nyzt with cold watur washe pe pipes hede,

& hit not forgete,

4

112 & alle-wey haue a gymlet, & a dise, with lynneñ clowtes smalle or grete.

1 See note to 1. 82.

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* See Rompney of Modon,' among the sweet wines, 1. 119.
3 Eschec & mat. Checke-mate at Chests; and (metaphorically)

a remedilesse disaster, miserie, or misfortune. Cot.

4?ascia, a dyse, Vocab. in Reliq. Ant. v. 1, p. 8, col. 1; ascia, 1. an axe; (2. a mattock, a hoe; 3. an instrument for mixing mortar). Diessel, ofte Diechsel, A Carpenter-axe, or a Chip-axe. Hexham.

3iff þe wyne reboyle / pow shalle know by hys If the wine boil

syngynge;

over,

of red wine,

perfore a pipe of coloure de rose1 / pou kepe pat put to it the lees was spend in drynkynge

and that will cure

the reboyle to Rakke to pe lies of pe rose / pat [Fol. 172 b.] shalle be his amendynge.

it.

116 3iff swete wyne be seeke or pallid / put in a Romp- Romney will

ney for lesynge.2

bring round sick sweet wine.

[blocks in formation]

The namys of swete wynes y wold þat ye them The names of

knewe:

Vernage, vernagelle, wyne Cute, pyment, Raspise,

Muscadelle of grew,

Rompney of modoñ, Bastard, Tyre, Ozey, Torren

tyne of Ebrew.

120 Greke, Malevesyñ, Caprik, & Clarey whañ it is newe.

Good

Ypocras.

Sweet Wines.

ood son, to make ypocras, hit were gret Recipe for making lernynge,

Ypocras.

and for to take pe spice perto aftur þe propor- Take spices thus,

cionynge,

Gynger, Synamome / Graynis, Sugur / Turnesole, Cinnamon, &c.,

pat is good colourynge;

for lordes
[MS.]

124 For commyñ peple / Gynger, Canelle / longe long Pepper

1

pepur/hony aftur claryfiynge.

? The name of the lees of some red wine. Phillips has Rosa Solis, a kind of Herb; also a pleasant Liquor made of Brandy, Sugar, Cinnamon, and other Ingredients agreeable to the Taste, and comfortable to the Heart. (So called, as being at first prepared wholly of the juice of the plant ros-solis (sun-dew) or drosera. Dict. of Arts and Sciences, 1767.)

2 See note, 1. 31. 3 See note on these wines at the end of the poem. 4 In the Recipe for Jussel of Flessh (Household Ord., p. 462), one way of preparing the dish is for a Lorde,' another way 'for Commons. Other like passages also occur.

fo[r] commynte

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