tier, is lined with custom-house officers, who search all who land from the states of Austria or Switzerland.

The Borrome an Islands may be conveniently visited from Baveno; and the traveller on his way to Milan may send round his carriage to meet him at the Count's Stables (l'Escuderia), the nearest point, or at Stresa. A boat from Baveno, with 2 rowers, to go and return, costs 5 fr. if not kept more than 2 hours; beyond that, 10 sous per rower is charged for every hour. The steam-boat which navigates the Lago Maggiore passes near the islands every morning, about 9, on its way to Sesto, and again, on its way back, at 3; so that, by setting off early from Baveno, a traveller (having no carriage) might see them, and avail himself of this rapid conveyance to reach Sesto.

It takes 25 minutes to row from Baveno to the Isola Bella, passing, on the way, the Isola Pescatori, so called because its inhabitants are poor fishermen, whose rude semiplastered hovels contrast abruptly with the stately structures on the neighbouring island. The Isola Bella belongs to the Count Borromeo, who resides a part of the year in the vast, unfinished Palace which occupies one end of it. An ancestor of the family, in 1671, converted this mass of bare and barren slate-rock, which lifted itself a few feet above the surface of the lake, into a beautiful garden, teeming with the vegetation of the tropics. It consists of 10 terraces, the lowest founded on piers thrown into the lake, rising in a pyramidal form one above another, and lined with statues, vases, obelisks, and black cypresses. these, as upon the hanging gardens of Babylon, flourish in the open air, not merely the orange, citron, myrtle, and pomegranate, but aloes, cactuses, the camphor-tree (of which there is a specimen 20 ft. high), sugar-cane, and coffee-plant-all inhabitants of tropical countries-and this within a day's journey of the Lapland cli

Upon

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mate of the Simplon, and within view of the Alpine snows.

The proverbial disagreement of doctors is nothing in comparison with the discord of travellers on the merits of this island. To Simond the sight of the island at a distance suggests the idea of "a huge Perigord pie," stuck round with the heads of woodcocks and partridges;" Matthews extols it as "the magic creation of labour and taste... a fairy-land, which might serve as a model for the gardens of Calypso ;" Saussure calls it "une magnifique caprice, une pensée grandiose, une espèce de création ;" while Brockedon sternly pronounces it as "worthy

only of a rich man's misplaced extravagance, and of the taste of a confectioner." To taste, it may have little pretension; but, for a traveller fresh from the rigid climate of the north, this singular creation of art, with its aromatic groves, its aloes and cactuses starting out of the rocksand, above all, its glorious situation, bathed by the dark-blue waters of the lake, reflecting the sparkling white villages on its banks, and the distant snows of the Alps, cannot fail to afford pleasure, and a visit to the Isola Bella will certainly not be repented of.

Every handful of mould on the island was originally brought from a distance, and requires to be constantly renewed. It is probable that its foundation of slate-rock favours the growth of tender plants by long retaining the heat of a noon-day sun; but few persons are aware that, in addition to this, the terraces are boarded over during winter, and the plants protected from the frost by stoves heated beneath: thus converting the terraces into a sort of hothouse. garden is let out to a nurseryman from Genoa, who keeps it in order, shows it to strangers, and receives their douceurs.

The

A laurel (bay) of gigantic size is pointed out, as well for its remarkable growth as for a scar on its bark, where Napoleon, it is said, cut with a knife

the word "battaglia," a short while before the battle of Marengo. Rousseau once thought of making the Isola Bella the residence of his Julie, but changed his mind on reflecting that so artificial an abode would not be consistent with the simplicity of her character.

The Palace, standing cheek-byjowl with a group of ruinous and very humble cottages, is shown to strangers, but is, on the whole, scarcely worth entering, unless the visitor has plenty of time on his hands. The most remarkable among the pictures it contains are those by Tempesta-an artist who murdered his wife to marry another, and took refuge here after the deed, being sheltered by the owner of the mansion. The lower story is a suite of grottoes, intended as a cool retreat from the heat of summer.

The Isola Madre, the largest of the islands, also contains a beautiful garden, and has more natural beauty than the Isola Bella. The upper end of the Lago Maggiore is described in Route 91.

The Simplon road, where it skirts the lake, is an almost uninterrupted terrace of masonry, studded with granite posts at intervals of a few feet. Travellers coming from Milan may embark on the lake to visit the Borromean islands at Stresa, where boats are kept.

Beyond Belgirate, a pretty village, remarkable for the number of villas with terraces and gardens in front: the colossal statue of St. Carlo Borromeo appears on the hill above the road. 2 Arona-(Inn: Posta, close to the water; tolerably good).

An ancient town, of 4000 inhab., with a small castellated harbour. It is built on the very margin of the lake; the principal street, in which the inn is situated, is so narrow that only one carriage can pass. The Simplon road runs through the upper part of the town. The steamer touches here twice a-day; carriages can be embarked here.

The principal Ch. (Santa Maria) contains a beautiful picture by Gaudenzio Ferrari-a Holy Family, with shutters, bearing figures of saints, and the portrait of a Countess Borromeo, by whom it was presented to the church. St. Carlo Borromeo was born at Arona, 1538, in the old castle, now nearly destroyed.

On the summit of a hill, about half an hour's walk from the town, stands the Colossal Statue of St. Charles Borromeo, 66 ft. high, and placed on a pedestal 40 ft. high. The head, hands, and feet, alone, are cast in bronze, the rest of the figure is formed of sheets of beaten copper, arranged round a pillar of rough masonry which forms the support of it. The saint is represented extending his hand towards the lake, and over his birth-place, Arona, bestowing on them his benediction. There is grace in the attitude, in spite of the gigantic proportions of the figure, and benevolence beams from the countenance ;-altogether the effect of it is good and very impressive. It was erected, 1697, by subscriptions, principally contributed by the Borromean family. It is possible to enter the statue and to mount up into the head, but the ascent is difficult and fatiguing, and not to be attempted by the nervous. It is effected by means of two ladders, tied together (provided by a man who lives hard by), resting on the pedestal, and reaching up to the skirt of the saint's robe. Between the folds of the upper and lower drapery the adventurous climber squeezes himself through-a task of some difficulty, if he be of corpulent dimensions; and he then clambers up the stone pillar which supports the head, by placing his feet upon the iron bars or cramps by which the copper drapery is attached to it. To effect this, he must assume a straddiing attitude, and proceed in the dark till he reaches the head, which he will find capable of holding 3 persons at once. Here he may rest himself by sitting down in the recess

of the nose, which forms no bad substitute for an arm-chair. In the neighbouring church several relics of St. Carlo are preserved.

The view of the peaked snowy ridge of the Monte Rosa, from the lower part of the Lago Maggiore, is magnificent. A ferry-boat conveys the traveller across the Ticino, which forms the outlet of the lake, into the territory of Austrian Lombardy, aud the small town of

13 Sesto Calende.—No good inn. Passports are strictly examined, and no traveller is allowed to pass the frontier unless he be provided with the signature of an Austrian minister— in default of which he is sent back to Turin or Berne to procure it. Sesto is said to have been a Roman station, and to have received its name from a market held here on the 1st of the month-Sexto Calendarum. It stands upon the left bank of the Ticino, just below the spot where it quits the Lago Maggiore. The Ch. of St. Donato is a structure of the middle ages.

A Steamer starts at one o'clock every day, but Sunday, for the head of the lake, stopping at Arona and calling off the Borromean Islands. It corresponds with the velocifera (omnibus) to Milan, which sets out within half an hour of the arrival of the steamer. For fares, and other particulars respecting the Lago Maggiore, see Route 91.

The road to Milan lies over a monotonous flat, the beginning of the great plain of Lombardy, between avenues of cabbage-headed mulberrytrees, hedges of acacia, and rows of vines trained between fruit-trees, so as completely to hide all view on either side. The country is excessively fertile, but void of interest, and the road usually most disagreeable from the dust. The posting is not on a good footing, and the rate of driving is very slow-even the prospect of double buono-mano has little effect in accelerating the postilions.

The

The name of every village is written on the wall at the entrance. first which we pass is Soma, containing an ancient castle of the Visconti, fringed with swallow-tailed battlements, and a remarkable cypresstree of great age, one of the largest known. It is stated to have been a tree in the days of Julius Cæsar; it is 121 ft. high and 23 ft. in girth. Napoleon respected it at the time of the construction of the route of the Simplon, causing the road to diverge from the straight line on account of it.

Near this was fought the first great battle between Scipio and Hannibal, commonly called the Battle of the Ticinus, in which Scipio was worsted.

11 Gallerati.-Beyond this is Cascina delle Corde (of the ropes), also called Cascina del bon Jesu. At Busto, a mile to the W. of this, is a church designed by Bramante, and containing frescoes by Gaudenzio Ferrari.

1 Legnanello.

1 Rho.-Outside, the town is a very handsome church, designed by Pellegrini; the façade, recently finished, is by Pollack. Near this are extensive rice-grounds, the vicinity of which is very unhealthy.

The road terminates and enters Milan by the Arco del Sempione (della Pace), commenced by Napoleon, and finished by the Austrian government 1838. 1 MILAN (Inns: Gran Bretagna; Albergo Reale; Croce di Malta-good and quiet.) For a description of Milan, see Starke's Travels, or THE HAND-BOOK FOR TRAVELLERS IN NORTHERN ITALY.

CONSTANCE

--

ROUTE 66.

TO ST. GALL, BY THE LAKE OF CONSTANCE.

8 stunden= 273 Eng. miles. Constance is fully described in Route 7.

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The Lake of Constance.

Three steam-boats navigate the lake of Constance, making voyages 2 or 3 times a-week between Constance and Schaffhausen; Constance and Ueberlingen; Ludwigshafen, Friedrichshafen, Rorschach, Lindau, and Bregenz. The time and place of starting are promulgated in a printed tarif, which will be found hung up in all the inns near the lake. It takes 5 hours to go from Constance to Bregenz, and 3 to Rorschach or Friedrichshafen.

The lake of Constance, called by the Germans Boden See, and anciently known to the Romans under the name Lacus Brigantinus (from Brigantia, the modern Bregenz), is bordered by the territories of 5 different states-Baden, Würtemberg, Bavaria, Austria, and Switzerland, and a portion of its coasts belongs to each of them. It is about 44 miles long, from Bregenz to Ueberlingen, and 30 from Bregenz to Constance; about 9 miles wide in the broadest part; 964 ft. is its greatest depth; and it lies 1255 feet above the sea.

Its main tributary is the Rhine, which enters at its E. extremity, and flows out under the walls of Constance. Its accumulated deposits have formed an extensive delta at the upper end of the lake, and are annually encroaching further.

Its banks, either flat or gently undulating, present little beauty of scenery compared with other Swiss lakes; but they are eminently distinguished for their fertility, and its S. shore is studded with a picturesque line of ruined castles or hill-forts of the middle ages.

It is only at its E. extremity, in distant glimpses of the snow-topped mountains of Vorarlberg, that it displays any alpine features.

Its waters, on an average, are lowest in the month of February, and highest in July, when the snows are melting: it sometimes swells a foot in 24 hours at that season.

Post-horses may be obtained on the route from Constance to St. Gall, nearly on the same terms as in Baden. From Constance to Hub is reckoned as 1 post.

Diligences go daily in 5 hours from Constance to St. Gall.

On quitting Constance the road passes the Augustine convent of Kreuzlingen, which still maintains 10 brothers of the order. Though the foundation is very ancient, the existing edifice dates from the end of the 30 years' war, in the course of which the preceding building was destroyed.

The canton of Thurgovia, which occupies the S. shore of the lake from Constance to Arbon, is distingnished for its surpassing fertility. Instead of rocks and mountains, and alpine pastures, the characteristics of other parts of Switzerland, this canton presents richly-cultivated arable land, waving with corn hemp; the place of forests is supplied by orchards: it is indeed the garden and granary of Helvetia. The country is at the same time thickly peopled, abounding in villages and cheerful cottages.

and

1 The nunnery of Munsterlingen, about 4 miles on the road, was suppressed in 1838, and converted into an hospital. The surviving sisters are allowed to occupy one wing of the building during their life-time. 2 Uttwyl.

After passing Romanshorn, a village built on the point of a tongue of land, the E. end of the lake, with the distant Alps towering above it, comes into view. On the opposite shore of the lake is Friedrichshafen and the Villa of the King of Würtemberg, in which he usually passes a part of the summer. See HAND-BOOK FOR SOUTHERN GER

MANY.

At Hub relays of post-horses may be obtained. Hence to St. Gall the distance is reckoned 14 post, and the charge for two horses is 4 fr. 3 kr. From Hub to Constance is 1 post, and to Rorschach 14 post.

2 Arbon, a walled town of 660 inhabitants, close upon the lake. The Romans, under Augustus, built a fort here, upon the high road from Augst and Windisch to Bregenz, which they called Arbor Felix. It was abandoned by them to the Allemanni in the 5th century. The Castle, on an eminence overlooking the lake, was built 1510, but its tower is said to rest on Roman foundations. The belfry, detached from the church, is boarded, not walled, on the side nearest the castle, in order that no force hostile to the lords of the castle should be enabled to shelter themselves in it, or annoy the castle from thence. The monk St. Gall is said to have died at Arbon (640), and the place was a favourite residence of Conradin of Hohenstauffen.

Travellers bound direct for Coire will proceed at once on to Rorschach, 1 post from Hub (Route 67), while the road to St. Gall turns S.

A gradual but long ascent leads up-hill the whole way from the borders of the lake along a pleasing valley, near the upper end of which, 1000 feet above the lake of Constance, is situated

23 St. Gall-Inns: Hecht (Brochet), very good; Rossli (Cheval).

St. Gall, capital of the canton, is situated in an elevated valley on the banks of a small stream called the Steinach, and has a population of 10,333 souls. It is one of the principal seats of manufacturing industry in Switzerland. The manufacture of muslins, known as Swiss muslins all over Europe, is the most flourishing; but the spinning of cotton is also rapidly increasing. There are extensive bleacheries in the town, and the neighbouring slopes are white with linen.

The antique walls, however, which still surround the town, and the ditch, now converted into gardens, tell of a totally different period and state of society, and recall to mind the ancient history of St. Gall.

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we may believe the legend, it was in the carly part of the 7th century that St. Gallus, a Scotch monk (? Irish), left his convent in the island of Iona, one of the Hebrides, and, after travelling over a large part of Europe converting the heathens, finally settled on the banks of the Steinach, then a wilderness buried in primæval woods, of which bears and wolves seemed the rightful tenants rather than men. He taught the wild people around the arts of agriculture, as well as the doctrines of true religion. The humble cell which the Scotch missionary had founded became the nucleus of civilization; and 50 years after his death, when the fame of his sanctity, and the miracles reported to have been wrought at his tomb, drew thousands of pilgrims to the spot, it was replaced by a more magnificent edifice, founded under the auspices of Pepin l'Heristal. This Abbey was one of the oldest ecclesiastical establishments in Germany. It became the asylum of learning during the dark ages, and was the most celebrated school in Europe between the 8th and 10th centuries. Here the works of the authors of Rome and Greece were not only read but copied, and we owe to the labour of these obscure monks many of the most valuable classical authors, which have been preserved to modern times in MSS., treasured up in the Abbey of St. Gall; among them Quintilian, Silius Italicus, Ammian Marcellinus, and part of Cicero, may be mentioned.

About the beginning of the 13th century St. Gall lost its reputation for learning, as its abbots exchanged a love of piety and knowledge for worldly ambition, and the thirst for political influence and territorial rule. The desire of security, in those insecure times, first induced the abbot to surround his convent and the adjoining building with a wall and ditch, with 13 towers at intervals; and from that moment (the end