V

I have besides received much new and valuable information on this subject from Major Kennedy, formerly political agent in the country of the Himalaya, and from George William Traill, Esq., who resided there many years, and whose communications will be read with great interest; and I am greatly indebted to Thos. Southey, Esq., for his reports on the qualities of East India and other wools.

To William Walton, Esq. and William Danson, Esq. I am obliged for information respecting the Alpaca, and for being permitted to insert the portrait of that beautiful animal which was in Mr. Walton's work.*

With respect to Anglo-merino sheep, I have been favoured with a letter addressed by Lord Western to Earl Spencer, and I have been also honoured with a letter addressed to me by Lord Western,† whose great and unwearied exertions to improve that breed of sheep, rendering the wool adapted for the fine worsted trade, and the carcase more valuable, are so well known; and I am indebted to his Lordship for the beautiful engravings of a group of his Anglo-merino sheep and his Anglo-merino horned ram.

For statistical information, and the means of completing the tables in the Appendix, I am obliged to G. R. Porter, Esq., of the Board of Trade, whose labours and works in that department are so well known and so highly appreciated; and upon the same subject I have derived information from Jelinger C. Symons, Esq.

Valuable communications have been also made to me by several relations and kind friends.

* Published by Messrs. Smith, Elder and Co.

+ Published by Messrs. Ridgway, and Smith, Elder and Co.

vi

In making these acknowledgments, it would be unjust to omit my obligations to Edward Baines, Jun. Esq., not only for the extracts he has allowed me to make from his History of the Cotton Trade, and other information, but for the care and attention he has bestowed on the printing of this Work, thereby saving me immense labour.

The plates will, I hope, be regarded as interesting. The engravings of Mr. Chamberlayn's prize New Leicester sheep, and Mr. Grantham's prize South Down sheep, were furnished by the Proprietor of the Agricultural Magazine; and the taste and execution of Mr. Giles (so well known for his paintings of animals), in the groups of Asiatic and African sheep, and Mr. Webb's prize South Down sheep, which form the frontispieces to these volumes, cannot fail to be much admired.

During the progress of this work, in common with yourselves, I have to lament the decease of two individuals most highly and most deservedly valued, who were almost identified with the woollen and worsted manufactures. My very respected friend, Benjamin Gott, Esq. was indeed, as is stated in this compilation, the chief introducer of the woollen branch in its extended and improved state into Yorkshire, and upon all occasions took a prominent, active, and most useful part in maintaining its interests.

The other loss is the deeply lamented Earl of Harewood, who for half a century was your steady, ardent, and persevering advocate in Parliament, and for a considerable portion of that time Representative of Yorkshire in the House of Commons. His lordship

* Published by Fisher, Son, and Jackson.

was perfectly conversant with every subject connected with the woollen and worsted manufactures, always accessible to you, and on every occasion unwearied in his attention. His lordship read the manuscript copy of this work, and strongly expressed his desire to have it published.

I have now only to repeat my obligations to you for the many favours you have conferred upon me, and my most anxious hope for your future prosperity and the extension of your trade; trusting that such measures may be adopted by Government as will repeal, or reduce to a nominal rate, the taxes which still remain on the raw materials and articles used in your manufacture, and remove the shackles and restrictions weighing upon you,-placing you as much as possible upon an equal footing with your foreign competitors; and if that be done-looking to the immense and extending fields for the production of the raw material, and the still more extending though distant markets open, and which may be opened, for your fabrics-there can be no doubt but that the capital and enterprise of the merchant and manufacturer, and, above all, the indefatigable and patient industry of the working classes, will be crowned with success, and your dense population, relieved from the severe distress and privation under which they are now labouring, will be restored to full employment and happiness. Trusting that these most desirable results are not far distant, I remain, with the greatest respect,

Your obliged and faithful Servant,

Highbury Terrace,

JAMES BISCHOFF.

March, 1842.

CONTENTS

OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

INTRODUCTION.

ON ANCIENT MANUFACTURES AND COMMERCE.

Earliest mention of Wool-Earliest Manufacture-Earliest Clothing-Coats of

Skin, Tunic, Simla-Warp and Woof-Woollen and Linen Manufacture-

Advance in Manufactures and Arts-Tents of Goats' Hair-Variety of Colour

-Dyeing the words "of blue, and of purple, and of scarlet," mean Wool-

lens of these Colours-The Breed of Sheep-The fat-tailed Sheep, description

of-Dean Prideaux's Account of the trade of Tyre-Ancient Commerce of

the East-The Trade of Kings David and Solomon with Ophir and Tarshish;

the immense wealth derived from them-The History of the Trade to the

present Time-Palmyra, its Trade-Silk-Professor Millar's Account of the

Trade of the Continent, and the Introduction and Establishment of the Wool-

len Manufacture in Great Britain.

CHAPTER I.

ABRIDGMENT OF SMITH'S MEMOIRS OF WOOL: FROM THE CREATION OF THE

WORLD TO THE REIGN OF RICHARD I.

Sheep's Wool Manufacture mentioned in the Old Testament-Huetius's History—

First mention in England-Sheep in Edgar's Reign-From Richard I. to

Edward VI.-Merchants of the Staple-Cloth made in England before 1224-

Customs on Woollen and Worsted Exported-Jack of Newberry-Extension

of Manufacture-Merchant Adventurers-From Edward VI. to 1568-Forced

Reduction of Rents and of the Prices of Wool-Wide Spread of the Woollen

Manufacture-Blackwell Hall-Corporation of German Merchant Adventu-

rers-From 1568 to Queen Elizabeth-French and Flemish Refugees-From

James I. to William and Mary-Cockayne's Patent-Exportation of Wool

prohibited-Spanish Wool-Sir Josiah Child-Woollen Manufacture on the

Continent-From William and Mary to the end of King William's Reign-

East India Company, from 1702 to 1755-Woollen Exports-1718 to 1724-

1738 to 1743-1744 to 1753.

CHAPTER II.

PREVIOUS TO THE YEAR 1750.

Irish Pamphlets-Smuggling Wool from Ireland to England-Ports in England

for Importation-Penalties for Smuggling-Woollen Manufacture discouraged

in Ireland-Thoughts on a Bill in the House of Lords-Distinction between

Colonies for Trade and Colonies for Empire-The Grazier's Complaint-The

Rents of Ireland spent in London-Wool of England sufficient for its Wants

-Increase of Inclosures and Tillage Land-Increased Number of Sheep-

Consequences of importing Wool from Ireland-Rents and Cost of Living in

Ireland The Wool equal to Half the Rentals-Comparison between English

and Irish Farms-Lincolnshire-Number of Acres-Number of Sheep-Quan-

tity of Wool-Number of Parishes-Rents in South Britain-Persons em-

ployed in the Woollen Manufacture-Persons employed in the Growth of

Wool-Excidium Anglica-The Effects of Smuggling Wool-Superior Quality

of English Wool-Comparison with various Foreign Wools-Thoughts on the

Woollen Manufacture of England-Observations on the present State of Ire-

land and the Woollen Manufacture-Remarks on the English Woollen Manu-

facture, and preventing the Export of Irish Wool-A Scheme to prevent the

Running of Irish Wool and Woollens, by prohibiting the Importation of

Spanish Wool into Ireland-Labour employed in making Cloth-Calculation

of Time and Cost, and Division of Labour in making Cloth-Comparison of

Labour in working Spanish and Irish Wool-Cost of Subsistence in Ireland-

Reduced Growth of Wool in Ireland-Computation of Woollen Manufacture

of Ireland-Wool and Woollen Yarn imported into England from Ireland-

French Manufactures dependant on Irish Wool-State of Trade in Ireland—

Effect of Restrictions on the Price of Horses and Cattle in Ireland-Origin

and Rise of the Provision Trade in Ireland-Effect of Restrictions on the

Woollen Manufactures of Ireland-True Principles of Commerce.

CHAPTER III.

FROM 1752 To 1757.

Petitions to Parliament on branding Sheep with Pitch and Tar, and on false and

deceitful winding of Fleeces-The names of Towns and Districts from which

Petitions were sent, showing where the Woollen Manufacture was carried on

in England-Witnesses examined-Report of the Select Committee of the

House of Commons-A Review of the Manufacturers' Complaints against the

Wool Growers, in Two Pamphlets, by Smith, Compiler of the Memoirs of

Wool-Memoires sur les Laines-The Fleece, by J. Dyer-Breeds of Sheep

suited to various Soils and Climates-On the Process of Sorting Wool-Wools

adapted to different Purposes-On exportation of British Wools-Smuggling

of Wool-Process of the Woollen Manufacture-Improvement in Spinning-

Spinning Machines-Weaving-Fulling-Factories first erected for the Em-

ployment of Parochial Poor-Paul's Spinning Machine-The Manufacturing

Towns and Villages in Yorkshire-Foreign Trade in Woollens.

CHAPTER IV.

FROM THE YEAR 1765 TO 1790.

Inspectors appointed at Fulling Mills-Register of Cloth Milled-Act to prevent

Embezzlement of Yarn and Wool-Superiority of English Woollen Manu-

facture-Lord Sheffield's Observations thereon-Improvements in Machinery

-Riots in the West of England-Committee of Manufacturers, to prevent

Frauds in the Worsted Trade-Value of Woollen Goods from 1772 to 1776

-Consideration of the present system of Laws respecting Wool, by Thomas

Pownal, Esq. M. P.-Proceedings of Deputies from Manufacturing Towns—

Poor Rates at Norwich, 1764 to 1773-Exeter-Mr. Wolrich's Estimate of

Woollen Manufactures in Yorkshire-Calculations and Correspondence, &c.-

Gov. Pownal on the Exportation of Wool-Meetings respecting the Exporta-