common altar. His lordship is said to be a Roman Catholic at heart; but such a report may have arisen from the circumstance of his supporting the Catholic Claims.

The state bed was once prepared for the Prince Regent, (the present King,) who was expected to visit Eaton Hall, at the time he was at Liverpool. Perhaps his reception at the latter place deterred him from extending his tour. It is certain, that he slighted the beautiful banks of the Dee, and thereby gave great dissatisfaction to his friends in this quarter. On one occasion, multitudes of people lined the banks of the canal, from a rumour that he was to ascend in a boat from the Mersey to Chester; but the day came and went, without being cheered by his royal presence.

Lord Grosvenor's sitting-room is a most splendid apartment. It is finished and furnished in princely style. Crimson sofas and couches, inlaid tables, chairs embossed with gold,* mirrors of the utmost brilliancy, every where meet and dazzle the eye. Over the fire-place is a fine Rubens, and over each door, a splendid picture by our countryman West. I forgot to mention, that on the Gothic windows, lighting this suite of rooms, the eight Earls of Chester are delineated in succession, on stained glass. It is a conspicuous and pretty orna

ment.

The Library is in a style of elegance, corresponding with the rest of the palace. It occupies three large rooms. I was, however, surprised to see some of the shelves filled with mock, or painted books, like those in the galleries of the Lyceum at Liverpool. In a country where books are so abundant, and in a mansion where so much wealth and taste are conspicuous, the narrow economy of saving a few guineas in painting volumes, instead of purchasing them, struck me as very singular. If my memory serves me, the works thus delineated were the Encyclopedia Britannica and Jeremy Taylor, both of which his lordship would surely wish to possess. In his library, as well as in his drawing room, he has paid a compliment to American genius. All the writings of Washington Irving, not even excepting Knickerbocker's History of New-York, adorn the shelves. Such a circumstance is flattering to our literature:

The grounds and gardens of Eaton Hall are laid out with a good deal of taste, although there is nothing very bold or striking in the scenery. Towards the north, the prospect from the window is fine, presenting a picturesque view of Beeston in the distance, and a canal, or artificial channel for the Dee, winding among the trees and form

*These chairs are said to have cost 100 guineas, or about $500 each!

ing the border of the garden. cepted by groves of large oak and other forest trees, covering a level lawn. At the distance of half a mile from the Hall, a one-arched Bridge of cast iron, with a span of 150 feet, has been thrown across the Dee, at an expense of £10,000; but it is entirely concealed from the house by the intervening foliage.

On all other sides the view is inter

The garden contains about 50 acres, covered with every variety of fruit, vegetable, and flower. Plants of the most gorgeous hues attract the eye, and load the air with fragrance. From the centre of the Hall, a broad and beautiful walk leads to the water, where a pleasure boat with sails is moored among the trees. Another promenade runs along the margin of the artificial basin, at one end of which is a statue of a naked gladiator, and at the other a Minerva. In a copse on the right, rises a little temple in which is placed the Roman Altar, dug up near Chester some years since, with the inscription, " Nymphis et Fontibus Leg. XX. V. V.” On the opposite side of the garden are the hothouses, through all which we passed, although the temperature of some of them was as high as 110 degrees. Pine apples were fast coming to maturity, and luxuriant clusters of ripe grapes hung from the roofs. The vintage continues the year round, furnishing an abundance of fresh fruits. There is an imitation of Alpine scenery in one part of the garden; but it is upon a small scale, and in an unfinished state. His lordship is not very fond of horticulture, and has no taste for the higher sports of the nobility. Politics are his pursuit, and building is a passion with him. He has a family of three sons; his only daughter died a few years since.

LETTER VII.

RIDE FROM CHESTER TO MANCHESTER-NORTHWITCH-MANCHESTER

STOCKPORT-BUXTON-BAKEWELL.

July, 1825.

ON the afternoon of the 23d, we rode from Chester to Manchester -a distance of forty miles. As the day was pleasant, our seats were, as usual, taken on the outside of the coach, by the side of the driver, for the purpose of plying him with questions and learning something of the road. There were sixteen persons of both sexes on the top, and four in the interior. As the former exceeded the number that the coachman is by law allowed to carry, he was obliged to send some of them below, as he approached the bridge where the officers reside, lest, as he said "they should touch him for five pounds, to be expended among themselves in roast beef and porter." A pretty little Cheshire girl, with her face rendered a brunette by exposure to the sun in hay-making, was the least likely to incommode the inside passengers; and she was therefore smuggled through the turnpike.

Just without the walls of Chester, a spot was pointed out to us, consecrated by the execution of a protestant, who fell a martyr to the bigotry and persecution of Queen Mary. In the vicinity is an eminence, which is said to bear a striking resemblance to the celebrated Richmond Hill, near London, and to which the same name has been given. It presents a pretty view of Chester and its environs, and is a favourite place of resort. Rawton Moor, the scene of former battles, alluded to in my last letter, has been reclaimed and converted into cultivated fields, now waving with golden harvests. The extensive barren, which by courtesy has assumed the name of Delamere Forest, is nothing more than a heath, of many thousand acres. In one direction, it is eight miles in extent, covered with a thick bottom of fern. It has been planted with fir and oak, under the superintendence, and at the expense of the government. Shrubs of the former tree are a few feet in height, and may in time form a forest; but the soil, or rather the sand, will never apparently support a growth of oak. On the waste are several little white cottages, inhabited by the foresters, who are in the pay of the government. There is also an oasis in the desert, with a small village, and neat Gothic church, erected at the expense of the Earl of Derby. These buildings in some degree relieve the eye and break the desolation which reigns around.

At Sandiway hotel, we saw four coursers belonging to Earl Gros

venor, in charge of as many grooms, on their way to Knutsford, where the annual races were to take place on the Tuesday following. The golden cups and high bets, then and there to be lost and won, formed almost the only topic of conversation on the road. The coachman entered fully into the spirit of these high sports, and as he did not carry the mail, and was permitted to loiter as much he chose, he would often stop his team, to converse on the probable issue of the contest. Noblemen's horses are much better known than themselves to the people; and without taking any particular pains to acquire the knowledge, we became tolerably familiar with the studs of all the Dukes, Earls, and Squires in the vicinity. It is said that Lord Grosvenor has no taste for sports of the turf, but is obliged to participate in its turmoils, for the sake of maintaining his popularity.

In the course of the afternoon, we passed through the town of Northwitch, so celebrated for its salines and mines of salt, whence the - extensive exports from Liverpool are obtained. The two places are connected by the river Weaver and by canals, affording great facilities of transportation. Immense quantities are annually taken to market. through this channel. Although we had a strong desire to stop and compare the works with those at Salina; yet as the day was far spent and Sunday approaching, affording no opportunity to witness the operations, it was concluded to defer the visit. There is nothing inviting in the aspect of this town. The Weaver is a dark and sluggish stream, and the buildings on its bank bear the marks of decay. Some of them incline, as if ready to fall, owing, it is said, to the sinking of the ground from excavations. An anecdote was related to us, respecting the salt works. A year or two since, Earl Grosvenor, (whose pardon, as well as that of my readers, I must beg, for so often introducing his name,) was publicly insulted by the manufacturers in the streets of Northwitch. He determined to avenge the indignity, by touching the pockets of his political opponents, and accordingly opened a new salt mine, the products of which have seriously affected the prices of the commodity.

Near Northwitch, is a pretty country seat, the residence of Sir John Leceister. There is an artificial lake, or canal on his grounds, on which a small brig, designed as a pleasure boat, was moored. He is the great patron of young artists, and is said to have an extensive collection of paintings and statuary, purchased partly to show his munificence towards works of taste and genius. His brother seems inclined to different pursuits. He was among the passengers in the coach, on his way to the races. In the same neighbourhood is the residence of another nobleman. A beautiful vista leads through the

Park to the mansion, which, at this season, was entirely concealed by the foliage. The personage referred to is said to be extremely unfortunate in his family. The gambling debts of one of his sons, have deeply involved him in pecuniary embarrassments; and large lots of timber have been sold from his grounds, to wipe off the old scores. But in the opinion of my informant, the deepest affliction of all consisted in the marriage of one of his daughters with the son of a bishop, who has neither titles, honours, nor estates. It was a pure love match between the young couple; and such is the artificial state of society here, that it is reckoned an indelible stain upon the escutcheons of nobility. His lordship is said to have directed his carriage to keep the middle of the road, leaving the disinherited pair to take which side they chose, if they chanced to meet.

Almost every place in England is remarkable for something::-one town for cloths; another for cutlery-one village for the best cakes; and another for the best ale. These localities are often ludicrous and amusing. Our attention was directed to Stretford, a little village near Manchester, where all the Welch pigs are butchered and carried to market. It appears pretty well adapted to its staple commodity.

An incident occurred in the course of the afternoon, at which all the passengers save one, were highly amused. Among our party of twenty, there was a large, athletic, rosy-faced cockney, with his drab breeches and white-top boots, who was apparently travelling for pleasure, and perhaps was going to the races. Happening by mistake to stop at the wrong tavern to take his glass of beer, the landlady, who was a shrewd, clever woman, recognized my gentleman, as the person, who had drunk his quart of ale a short time before, and left the house without paying for it. Without much ceremony, she jogged his memory in the presence of his fellow-travellers. He retreated to the coach with all convenient despatch, and she pursued him. Some of us requested the driver to remain, till the demand of mine hostess was satisfied; but the cockney coiled himself into the corner and sat mute, bearing a shower of reproaches, without opening his lips. He was less forward for the remainder of the journey.

An hour before reaching Manchester, the crowds of people returning from market gave indications of our approach to a large town. The suburbs are pleasant. After crossing the Mersey, which is here a small stream, as also a canal connecting London, Liverpool, and Manchester, we were hurried through one of the principal streets, to the Star Inn, which the driver pronounced to be "the best hotel in the world." Our arrival was at an hour, when all the labourers of both sexes had finished the toils of the weck, and were set free until