CHAPTER V. "How bonny spreads the Haugh sae green, The Briery Bank how sweet at e'en, Wi' music's sound, Whare weel the wandering e'e may glean Hk landscape round."-GALL's Address to Haddington. HADDINGTON-ITS ANCIENT AND MODERN STREETS-PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND IMPROVEMENTS. THE TOWN-HOUSE THE ASSEMBLY-ROOM.-THE COUNTY BUILDINGS.-PUBLIC MONUMENTS.-EMINENT MEN. THE town of Haddington is situated at the foot of the Garleton range of hills on the north, and is bounded by the Tyne on the east and south, which divides it from the suburb of Nungate.* The town consists of six streets. The entrance from the west is by court-street, which leads into two parallel streets, called the high-street and market-street. These are intersected at right angles by the sidegate and long-causeway, and on the left by herdgate-street, which leads to the north-east port and the London road. The other, which bears the significant name of church-street, leads to the public schools, the Nungate, and the parish church. The streets are well kept, and have in general •There is a view of the town of Haddington in Slezer's Theatrum Scotia. In 1673, July 19th, ten merks were given to the Lord Lyon for marticulating the Town's arms. The armorial bearing consists simply of a goat, on a plain shield. A plan of the town was drawn from a survey of John Wood, Edinburgh, and published in 1819. The streets of Haddington were not materially improved till 1814, under the direction of Mr. James Burn, to whom the thanks of the council were voted (7th Oct.) "for the particular attention he had paid to the repairs and alterations on the public streets." The streets at this time were considerably raised at the foot of the highstreet, and large drains, common sewers, and cess-pools laid down. Previous to this period it was a regular occurrence to see the custom-stone flooded on a heavy fall of rain, particularly a thunder shower. On one occasion it was necessary at a funeral, to put the coffin into a cart, while the people went round by the King's arms inn garden, and met it at the head of Tyne close. In 1765, August 13th, from the imperfect state of the streets, several small bridges at the Custom-stone, foot of the High-street, were ordered to be removed. In 1766, the streets were so deplorably bad, that part of them, from Mr. Caddell's tenement near the Tolbooth to the Westport, required to be renewed from side to side, considerably lowered in the middle, and a paved canal or drain made on each side to carry off the stagnant water. The street from the North East Port to the South Port was reckoned dangerous to travellers on horseback, by reason of its height in the middle! the advantages of a side pavement,* and are lighted with gas.t The houses are chiefly from three to four stories in height, and have a modern and regular appearance; many of the shops in the principal streets being equal to those in the metropolis. The In 1766, June 10th, the South Port, owing to its ruinous condition, was removed, and the passage or entry made the full breadth of the street. The stones were to be used in making two new cells for the prisons. Previous to this decree, the North-east Port had also been removed as an obstruction, and the bridge there widened and repaired; the town coming under this obligation, on the provision that the county built a bridge over Laurence-house burn, where there was a ford. It was not till 1768 that outside stairs began to be removed as obstructions. We meet with the following notices of ancient streets, which have in general merged into the others. The Sydgate and Middleraw still exist in name. More than four hundred years ago, A. D). 1429, heritable sesing was granted to John Patonson, cordwanar," in feferme of a tenement lyand in the Sydgate on the Kyngis Wal." And, in 1440. a tenement of land is noticed as "lyand in the burgh of Hadyngton in the Meditraw." 1542-43, February 15th, the bailies, at my Lord Bothwell's request, ordained the Fish Market to stand at the Friar-wall. 1558, April 4th, a common gait, called Lydgait, is noticed as lying betwixt the common lone passing from the town of Haddington to Aberlady, and the east lone, called the Barmy Lone, as being alluterlie telit doune and destroyed by the possessors," &c.In 1601, April 24th, the Lydgait is noticed as lying on the north side of the town, betwixt Harmaneflat and the Bultis passing fra the zairdis heidis." 1568-69, March 22nd, Thomas Myllar, in presence of the provost, bailies, and council, obliged himself, to glaze the fore window of the hall of St. James's Place with glass, at his expense, in respect that he was licensiate to theik his house, and therewith has condemned the maist part of the south window of the said hall." 1572-73, February 28th, it was ordained that "a yett should be bigged in the Fríar Gavel." Item, ordained the Salt Market and Shoe Market to be used langis (alongst) the Friar Wall, from Packwood-house north-the ground to be rede betwixt that and Pasche next." 1674, February-Whinstacks stood close by the town-hall. 1682, July 22nd, they were discharged from being kept on the streets, under the penalty of L.20 Scots. The north part of the town, leading from the wynd head at the tolbooth, was called the New-town. In 1747, March 26th, Bailie Forrest was fined for encroaching on the street at the back of the Smiddy-raw. In 1762, May 31st, the street, from the Westport eastward, (now Court-street) was planted with trees on both sides. Anciently called Tibbie's dale, In 1784, March 4th, we meet with a further notice of some old streets: Richard Purves's tenement is noticed as lying on the west side, near the bottom of St. John's or Queen's-Street, of the burgh, bounded on the south by the rivulet called Lothburn, which, crossing this street, under a conduit, joins Myldsburn, a little eastward. This street, with the ancient Sydegate, seems to have merged into the Long-causeway.The good taste that named St. Ann's place, shows where the Ladye's chapel stood. There were also streets of a less dignified appellation. 1764, October 24th, William Thomson's ruinous house in Strumpet Street, was ordered to be rebuilt. In 1792, September 11th, Painted boards were placed at the corner of the streets to point the way to strangers. The Cross, Tron, and lamp posts, were ordered to be painted. The names of the streets, on the public corners, were not painted till 1839. In 1826 this immense improvement was made in the comfort of the streets, partly by private subscriptions. On the 11th November, the town subscribed L.50 for this purpose; and, in January 1827, 150 yards of street, extending from the Westport to the Town-house was Macadamised by way of experiment. 1675, July 31st, the causeway was laid at the rate of 4 merks per rood. L.12, 13s. 4d. was paid for stones and sand leading. In 1783, March 26th, a committee appointed to consider a plan and level for laying and paving the principal high-street. Haddington was lighted with gas for the first time in 1836. The work was erected upon a piece of ground, purchased from the town, being part of a park called Peghdaleloan, for which the company paid L.50. A contract was entered into with Shots Iron Company for the pipes and machinery; Mr. James Dorward for the building; and Mr. Francis Farquharson for the wright work. The company was formed in December 1834, with a capital of L.2000, divided into shares, which were bought with avidity. It does not appear that the streets were lighted till 1749, when, on the 14th Septem approaches to the town from the west and east are beautified by elegant villas, luxuriant gardens, and extensive nurseries. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Town House.-The original part of this building, which faces market-street, was built from a plan of William Adam, the celebrated architect, in 1748. It appears matter of surprise to the moderns how such a small edifice could accommodate the sheriffs court, town-council, and besides afford cells for the prisoners; but we find, at an early date, when the Tolbooth was occasionally filled with new levies of soldiers, that the judicial courts were in the habit of meeting in the spacious dining-room of Provost Lauder; and when every petty baron had his own lock-up house and the juggs at his village cross, less accommodation was required in the burghs for criminals. At that time also the turnkey's habitation was not within the precincts of the jail. The building of the assembly-room, about forty years afterwards, served in some degree to remedy that want of accommodation which began to be felt. Accordingly, on the 21st March, 1825, it was thought requisite by the council, that from the deficiency of the town-clock a new one should be procured, and an improved steeple built ;* and, on the 5th April, it was further agreed, that ber, the council authorized oil for the street lamps to be provided out of the money arising from the dung of the streets. In 1791, December 7th, the council appointed the lamps to be lighted on Sundays, as well as upon other nights. • The first notice we have of a clock being placed in the tolbooth was in the sixteenth century, when, previous to this period, it appears that this edifice was thatched. 1539, November 14.-" The which day the council think it expedient to complete the knok (clock) house, and the slating of the tolbooth this year; and the laif (rest) to be left while they be farther advised." 1540, October 12." The council ordained the treasurer to make diligens to set up the knok or Candlemass." 1559, June 9.-" The council ordained the treasurer to beit and mend all the faltis of the tolbooth." 1687, April 7.-John Elliot, surgeon-apothecary, deposited 800 merks for buying a clock for the use of the burgh, to be set up in the tolbooth. It cost L.25. The monument of John Elliot, chirurgeon, may still be seen about the north centre of the churchyard. 1732, October 4.-Owing to the ruinous condition of the tolbooth, the meetings of the council were held in the town-library; and, on the 17th of the same month, the steeple, town clock, and great bell, were ordered to be taken down as a measure of safety." Nothing can mark the poverty of the burgh more at this time than these extracts, for about ten years elapsed, till, on the 9th November 1741, subscriptions were solicited for a new tolbooth, when the town contributed L.100 sterling. It was contracted for, (June 10th, 1742,) by Robert Reid, mason, and George Pierie, wright, at an estimate of L.500 sterling; and to be 60 feet in length, and 36 in breadth, conform to the elevation of Mr. William Adam, architect.-To be finished by Whitsonday 1744. John Learmouth, painter, received five guineas as the price of the ground on which the new town-house was to be built. The subscriptions not being made effectual the town borrowed L.100 more to give to the contractors. 1745, June 10th.-The council agreed that a new clock should be provided for the town-house, to cost L.30 sterling. This clock was made by Roger Parkinson, Edinburgh. It required winding up every 24 hours, which was performed by the bellman. The present excellent clock, with chime quarters, which goes eight days, was made by the celebrated Mr. James Clark. Edinburgh, and cost, with the fitting up in the new steeple, about L.300. The clock still strikes on the finê old bell. the jail should be heightened on the south side. The frequent escape of prisoners, no doubt coupled with the strictures of the philanthropic Mrs. Fry and Mr. Gurney,† had convinced the council of the necessity of rendering the prison both more secure and more comfortable. A contract was, therefore, entered into with Messrs. Alexander Wilson and Peter Dickson, both of Haddington, for erecting that handsome structure, which now forms the south side of the town-house; and besides three cells in the under story, contains in the second a spacious town-hall. This room is decorated with a portrait of Frederick, prince of Wales, which hung in the former hall, in the robes of a knight of the garter. In addition to the new building the foundation-stone of the new spire was laid in June 1830, and finished in September 1831. This spire is 150 feet in height, from a plan by Mr. Gillespie Grahame, Edinburgh.‡ Assembly Room.-In 1774, it having become desirable that an assembly-room should be built in Haddington, for the use of the county gentlemen, the Hon. Mr. Charteris applied to the magistrates for a piece of ground for the purpose, when it was at first intended that the house should be built at the Little Sands, and should measure 70 feet in length from south to north, by 30 broad. It was afterwards agreed that the waste ground at the town-house, where the bear and oat markets were held, should be feued for this object, "provided the said room was built on pillars, in order that the markets might still be held there.” The assembly-room, however, was not built till about fourteen years afterwards; for, on the 1st November, 1788, the town of In 1783, May 3d, through the inefficiency of the jail, a prisoner effected his escape by breaking through the partition betwixt the Sheriff-court and adjoining rooms. This called the attention of the council to make the upper parts of the prison more secure.— The town continued to be led into much trouble and expense through the same cause. In 1799, October 28th, David Smeaton, formerly farmer in Overfield, having broke prison, a summons was executed against the magistrates, as representing the town, for payment of a debt due by the prisoner to Robert Brydon of Redfordgreen; and, in 1800, January 20th, the town paid Mr. Diddep, messenger, L.11, 14s. 6d. for expense in vainly endeavouring to apprehend Smeaton. To conclude this affair, on the 25th Octeber, a summons was also raised by Robert Hay, Esq. of Drummelzier, against the magistrates, for a debt due him by Smeaton. The council recommended the town's agent to settle the business, which was referred by arbitration to the Lord Advocate and Mr. Brown of Coalston. This Smeaton was a desperate character; being in the habit of cutting the throats of the sheep or cattle of his neighbours at whom he took umbrage, +Joseph John Gurney, the philanthropic quaker, visited the jail in 1819. In July 1843, the huge gilt vane of the town-house spire had got immoveably fixed, and ceased to perform its duties as a weathercock. A sailor-boy, accidently passing through the burgh, undertook the hazardous experiment of remedying this defect, which might have been attended with dangerous consequences to our slaters, which he accomplished by means of a rope-ladder. Haddington subscribed 25 guineas towards the building of the new assembly-room, which was then in progress, on the condition that an additional prison-room should be built, and the ground flat be reserved entire for markets. The latter plan, however, on the recommendation of Mr. Wilkie of Gilchriston, was abandoned, and a new sheriff-court room, and chambers for the public records, were erected below the assembly room. The assembly-room is spacious and elegant, being about 60 feet long, by 30 in width. It is decorated with a full length portrait of Sir James Gardiner Baird of Saughtonhall, Bart., in the costume of commandant of the East Lothian Yeomanry Cavalry, mounted on his charger, at a review on Tyne sands, with the Bass in the back ground, painted by John Syme, S. A. Edinburgh, 1827. The County Buildings.-Notwithstanding the additions that had been made from time to time in the edifices we have desscribed, the public courts were found inconveniently adapted for conducting business, and the place appropriated for the custody of the judicial records unfit for that purpose. It was, therefore, resolved, in 1831, to erect a new court-house to remedy these defects, and to obtain an act of parliament to assess the county for the expense. An act was accordingly obtained on the 6th June 1832, empowering commissioners to assess the shire in a sum not exceeding L.5250, on lands according to their valued rent, and on inhabited houses, at a rate not above 3d. in the pound of the assessment for the house tax; and to purchase eligible properties in the burgh of Haddington, near the West Port, for a site to the building. This object being accomplished, the plan and elevation were designed by Mr. William Burn, architect, Edinburgh, who subsequently drew the working plans.* The foundation-stone was laid, with masonic honours, on the 27th May, 1833, by Sir John Gordon Sinclair of Stevenston, Bart., in presence of all the beauty and fashion of the neighbourhood. The building is in the anglo-gothic style. The front is of polished stone, partly from Culello quarry in Fife, and Jerusalem quarry, near Haddington. On the ground story is the justice • The site chosen was that of the remains of one of the oldest buildings in the burgh, which appeared to have been of considerable extent, and to which tradition assigned the importance of a palace. The ruins removed consisted of a vault, and part of an arched passage communicating with it. The pillars of the arches were of the Saxon order. In the foundation-stone of the new buildings is deposited a bottle, hermetically scaled, containing several current coins of the realm, printed extracts of the proceedings of the county in reference to the erection of the building, a copy of the Act of Parliament, and Miller's East Lothian Register. |