V. RETAINING our position on the east tower of the great cathedral we continue our observations. Leading in a westerly direction from the southwest corner of the Alameda, mentioned in number four, is an unusually broad street, terminating at the outskirts of the city, where commences the Paseo, leading to the castle and grounds of Chapultepec. The Paseo is the drive much used by the aristocracy of the capital. It was greatly improved, indeed almost entirely re-arranged by the Princess Charlotte, during the brief supremacy of the Empire, under Maximilian. From where it turns,slightly toward the west from the street named, to Chapultepec, is a distance in a straight line of about one and a half miles. The width, including a sidewalk on either side, is probably ten rods. The drive is well graded, rising to a rounded elevation in the centre, while the walks are smooth, and tolerably well shaded by a variety of trees, planted along the inner and outer edges of the same. Some of these are of good size, and probably of fifteen or twenty years growth, while others, mostly eupalyptics, tall, slim, bark-shedding trees, with long, narrow leaves, are of more recent planting, and at a distance much resemble our Lombardy poplars. They are, however, in this climate, evergreens. The ash and cottonwood now, January 1st, have foliage about half grown, fresh, green and beautiful. They, with other similar varieties, attain full leaf during February. It would be difficult for a person from the north, accustomed to the sharp 6 No. 6. change of the seasons, to tell in this country by the indications of vegetation, when the winter ceases or spring begins. Between the horse-railway lines, which are located on either side of the Paseo, and the sidewalks, are deep, narrow, sluggish canals, from which Indians, following the primitive customs of the country, draw water with buckets having ropes attached for hoisting purposes. Thus the necessary water for sprinkling the carriage way is secured. At this end of the left hand walk, at a point where it is intercepted by a broad, dusty, unkept road, leading south, are placed, as posts in the ground, several large sandstone columns, evidently of Aztec workmanship. They are six feet in length by eighteen inches in diameter, and in appearance are exactly like four huge cable ropes bound together; each terminating at the top, however, with the form of a rudely cut, ill shaped, unhand some male or female face. The mouth of one, with protruding tongue, we found to be, by actual measurement, just nine inches wide, while the extended, unruly member was half that wide. Another, representing the face of an aged man, is made hideous by the large eyes and grinning teeth. The features of those representing the softer sex, are but little more attractive. We noticed a number of these singular looking columns lying around unset, as though of no use whatever, and we thought that even one of them would add much to the already excellent collection of our home museum, and would likewise afford real pleasure to the venerable curator of that growing institution. Immediately to the right of these, and at the junction of three streets with the Paseo, and in the middle of the latter, stands an equestrian statue of Charles the Fourth, of Spain, in bronze. It was cast in Mexico, A. D. 1802, and weighing forty-five thousand pounds is huge and awkward, unchaste in design and rough in execution. The horse is ill shaped, having a clumsy, ungraceful and unnatural attitude, while the rider, with flowing hair, wreath-bound brow, Roman nose, protruding chin, depressed mouth and high cheek bones as features, and ponderous shoulders and lower trunk wrapt in a flowing cloak, not unlike a blanket, reaching only to the bare lower limbs, and sandal clad feet-looks more like an Indian warrior equipped with a scroll in the right hand, and a stirrupless saddle for a seat, than a Spanish monarch of the waning years of the seventeenth century. If the statue does the original justice, we can but admit the decline of Spain, in noting in contrast the remarkable manly beauty and intellectual power of her great adventurer Cortez, whose stage of action was the battle fields of Mexico, three hundred and sixty years ago. As represented by an oil painting now in the National Museum of the Republic, executed in 1525, Hornando Cortez was much more than ordinarily fine looking, both as to form and feature. The expression, though softened by the abundant auburn hair and large blue eyes, indicates, nevertheless, strong resolution, backed by indomitable courage. History, while casting around his acts the gloomy lines which ever darken the memory of the religious fanatic, gives him credit for both. At the distance of a quarter of a mile from the statue above mentioned, the Paseo curves to the right and left, forming a complete circle, in the centre of which, surrounded with a neatly kept lawn, enclosed with round stone posts firmly placed in the ground, and from which is suspended a large cable chain, stands a rather imposing red sand cutstone monument, erected by order of the ex-president Porfirio Diaz. The base of | the monument is probably twelve feet square, and rising about the same height is graced upon each of the four corners with a very finely executed life size statue in bronze. Two of these represent eminent historic characters, the first being that of the friar and historian Las | Casas, and the other Marchena, the friend and companion of Columbus. Of the illustrious lives of the remaining two I may possibly learn something after leaving Mexico. I fear I shall not while remaining here, for, judging from past experience, resulting in repeated failures when seeking information, we would conclude that it is not in good taste, at least not fashionable for people here to know in whose honor monuments are erected, or whom paintings or statuary are made to represent. Questions propounded regarding such matters nearly always meet the same reply, quien sabe (don't know). The upper column of the monument is perhaps six feet high, and as many in width, being also square. Upon the top of this is an exceedingly fine life size bronze figure of Columbus. At his left foot, partially wrapped in the folds of drapery held in the left hand, is shown a large globe. The right hand is extended eastward, while the earnest, half melancholy gaze is in the same direction, giving the impression that the great navigator, having found what was thought to be the "new world," became "home sick" and desirous to return at once to the old. On the north side of the lower base is an artistic scene, likewise in bronze, of a tropical forest, amidst the thick foliage of which, nude Indian forms of men and women are seen, some of them falling over the prone timber, while others are being carried away, as all seek to flee panic-stricken, from the ships of the white man, just seen through an opening in the trees, as they sail upon the calm ocean beyond. There is something ominous in the exhibition of such abject fear in the midst of such peaceful surroundings; the realization of which is represented by the scene depicted on the south side of the monument, where the half tamed, half clad, sorrowful sons of MEXICO AND THE MEXICANS. the forest, in slavery to the inexorable Christian, are building a huge cathedral, and learning, against their will, the arts of civilization, and a worship that crushed conscience and gave no choice. On either side of the Paseo, and about one hundred feet apart, are erected substantial ornamental stone piers, between which are massive seats of the same material, more durable than comfortable. In Mexico, as in France, Sunday, after the celebration of the morning Mesa, (mass), is devoted to pleasure; and on that day, therefore, the drive and walks of the Paseo are crowded with gay equipages and flashy "beaux" and "belles." For Mexico, like other countries, has a supply of brainless fops and inartistically painted girls; a class who seem seldom to emigrate or die early. We have at home a few of that kind, known as the "paper collar brigade," who ply their trade mostly on foot, thereby more conveniently arranging themselves in line, when meetings are dismissed, so they can gaze sober, sensible and modest people out of all countenance. The foot brigade of the same class here are not much different from those at home; perhaps more numerous and somewhat bolder, for after staring a lady out of all countenance, it is no unusual thing to see crowds turn round and gaze at the retreating form as long as it can be seen. Now, a few lines in memory of the Mexican equestrian man of style, who probably has no equal, in his peculiar line of gaudy show, unless, indeed, it be the knight of the sawdust arena. His horse, unless imported, is small, wiry, active, and wears a bridle which glitters with gold and silver mountings, both inlaid and embroidered, even sometimes jeweled, costing the owner or his creditors-more frequently the latter-from two hundred and fifty to seven hundred and fifty dollars. The saddle must in every way correspond; being, as to the leather portions, a perfect maze of rich embroidery work, while the solid portions of the tree are bound with the precious metals. At the bow is suspended, in magnificently wrought holsters, a pair 163 of navy, silver-plated Remington or Colt pistols; while behind, the saddle is fas| tened, by means of gold or silver cords attached for the purpose, the brilliant, fancy striped everlasting "sarapa," the | long fringe of which dangles within a few inches of the ground. Beneath the sarapa, the flowing, rear saddle-skirts, of black bear or spotted tiger skin, extend an equal length. The rider-how shall we describe him? A frame of vanity unsurpassed! If he could be bought at actual value and sold for what he thinks he is worth, what a splendid profit would be realized by the transaction! The dividends on "watered stock" would be nowhere. Just see the attitude of manly grace assumed by the knight of the silver spurs, as his handsome face brightens under the changing lights as flashed from the bright gold laces, covering, above and below, the broad rim of his hundred dollar sombrero. Note the closely fitting short coat, cut well back to show, from under the low cut vest, the jeweled shirt front. See how the pantaloons, fitting like the costume of a circus rider, sets off the form, manly or otherwise. Adown each lower limb, from the waistband, are affixed a double row of brightly polished reales or silver buttons, interlaced between with a chain of the same material. Around the waist, suspended from a broad belt, or a sash, is a sabre on one side and a pistol or dagger on the other. The steed, under pressure of the whip and spur, prances, snorts, foams, and fairly trembles, as with dignified, self-poised rider, he wheels into the line of the brigade to which he belongs-fifty of such is a small turn out-and receives the admiring glances of not less gayly attired ladies as they glide along in their fine carriages. And this is fashion at the capital of Mexico, called by some writers the Venice of America. For quiet repose and peaceful meditation, the cypress groves of Chapultepec afford perhaps the most attractive features of any spot near the city. The castle, located on the abrupt rocky hill is quite massive and imposing. It has recently undergone many improvements of desirable character, which add much to a the beauty of the place. Here is the National Observatory, a position well chosen, healthy and beautiful, while affording the most attractive view of the surrounding country. Between it and the end of the Paseo, leading to the capital,stands a monument of gray sandstone recently erected to the memory of the national cadets, who, refusing to retreat, fell in battle September 12, 1847, when our countrymen, under General Scott, gained the victory which led to the surrender of the capital a few days later. There are in the park probably not less than a thousand fine cypress trees, whose planting by the Toltecs (Nephites) antedates, perhaps many centuries, the rise of the Aztec empire. Some of these are nearly fifty feet in circumference,and from one hundred to one hundred and twenty-five feet in height, with huge limbs extending all around to a great distance, and being always clad with dry, bronzed, and fresh green leaves, mingling with drooping silvery mosses, form the most enchanting bowers imaginable. The arrangement of these trees is in groves and double rows, sometimes crossing at right angles and affording splendidly shaded narrow avenues. An exceedingly fine spring of pure water gushes from the rocks of the south side of the hill. Three hundred and seventy years ago the waters of this spring were conveyed by the Aztecs to the city, through an aqueduct of masonry constructed for the purpose. A portion is now forced with a steam pump for use in the gardens of the palace above; while the remainder still flows to the capital. Half a mile or less, in a westerly direction, still stands, in a good state of preservation, the "Old Mill," around which raged the storm of shot and shell, when, on the eighth of September, 1847, the battle of Molino del Rey resulted in victory for the American arms. To the right of this, the valley, as it extends, becomes much narrower, but more abundantly covered with trees, among which, at the distance of about two miles, towering above its neighbors, can be seen the old historic cypress, known as the "Tree of Cortez," which is believed to have stood the storms of fifteen centuries. Beneath the friendly shadows of this old tree, Cortez, at daybreak of the morning following the disasters of Noche Triste, meditated upon the sad past, while still harassed with gloomy forebodings of the future. Here, with a brain racked by conflicting emotions, the man whose destiny it was to place a foreign yoke on the neck of a fast falling nation, hacked with his saber the spongy, yielding bark of the tree that bears his name, and, still living, points to that dark night, three hundred and sixty years ago, when that fearful battle was fought in the Lake, and upon the causeway of Tlacopan. Attempts having been made to destroy the tree with fire, the government has caused it to be enclosed with a substantial iron fence. The great adventurer standing, with a perplexed but still determined look upon his face, under this historic tree, with the mountains as a background, and the moon emerging from behind a bank of dark clouds, has been represented in featherwork, by an Indian artist. As a specimen of native art, this picture is really remarkable, while the effect produced by the beautiful feathers, as the light falls upon, and changes their hue, is wonderfully brilliant. The chain of mountains encircling the valley increase in height and abruptness south of the city, but is nevertheless cultivated wherever possible; the indigenous maguey, growing where less hardy plants entirely fail. Numerous towns, villages and quaint hamlets nestle among the foothills, while others are located away up on the mountains in little nooks and corners protected by extinct volcanic peaks. Beyond the limits of the city proper, on the plain intervening between it and the higher mountains, is the nearest approach to a forest of anything in the valley of Mexico. Here were located the once famous "floating gardens" of the Aztec capital. They still flourish among the trees, are very productive, but no longer "float," owing to the retirement, years since, of the lake upon which they formerly moved. Flowers in great vari EVAPORATION. ety are grown in these gardens, in rich profusion, and when tastefully arranged by Indian men, women and children, find a ready sale at the floral market of the city. But the price realized is very insignificant. At the time of the conquest the people of Mexico were notably in advance of those of civilized Europe in the cultivation of flowers, and the Indians, notwithstanding all the sorrows and afflictions through which they have since passed, still maintain, in this particular, their love for the beautiful. The canal into which flows the Rio Tezcuco passes through these gardens, and is the means by which their produce is conveyed to the market of the city. 165 Beyond is the Paseo de la Vega, near which was fought, August 20, 1847, the battles of Contreras and Cherubusco. Thus the reader has followed us entirely around, while we have briefly sketched a few of the many interesting places remaining attractive in the historic valley of Mexico, which was the cradle and the grave of millions who lived and died ages before the bright volcanic flames ceased to glare upon its mountains and plains. May peace prevail upon the soil, beneath which reposes the ashes of the fathers, until the hearts of the remnant of Joseph shall be enlightened and cheered by the divine rays of the Gospel of Christ. Moses Thatcher. EVAPORATION. If a wet cloth or a pan of water is exposed to the air for some time, all the water will disappear, but still it must exist in some form or other, as substance of any kind cannot be turned into nothing, but may be made to change its form so that we can with difficulty recognize it. In the case just mentioned the water has been turned into a vapor. But this same thing can be better illustrated by exposing to the air a little alcohol, or better still, ether, and in a short time the whole will disappear in the form of vapor, but in this we can recognize the presence of the alcohol or ether in the air from the smell that is given off, and in fact when we smell these liquids at all, it is not the liquid itself, but the vapor that arises from it. that But liquids are not the only substances may become vaporized, for in camphor, musk, and others, the vapor arises at once from the solid, without first becoming liquid, and even from ice which is nothing but solid water, a vapor will rise without first melting it. Evaporation will be promoted by removing pressure from the liquid surface. There is always pressing down upon all surfaces at the level of the sea, about fifteen pounds of air on every square inch. Now when water arises as vapor, the mole cules or smallest particles of water are raised against this weight, and to do this some force is required. When, therefore, some of this air is removed, the same force acting will throw off or raise into the air as vapor, more of these molecules, and will do it also more rapidly. The force that changes a liquid to a vapor, as explained in the last paragraph, is heat, as every one knows, since clothes hung out in the open air, or pools of mud and water, will not dry so soon in winter as in summer, so when we wish to dry a wet cloth very rapidly, we always place it near the fire. The term vapor is most erroneously applied to the gases of those substances that we are accustomed to see generally in a liquid state like water and mercury; but the term gas refers to those substances that we commonly see in neither the liquid nor solid state, as for instance, the air we breathe, composed of oxygen and nitrogen, and some of these have not been reduced to any other state by any means devised; so when this is the case they are called permanent gases, as oxygen and nitrogen, but not carbonic acid gas, which with great cold and pressure can be reduced to the liquid, and even to the solid state. |