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stomach does not destroy the equilibrium of sensation. Off again, thou wilt say, from the subject in question. Now, shall I display the height of courage, and tell thee what none else dare do, incapacity! Yes, incapacity! This is above my pencil! It is in the mind, and if the brain was a lithographic press I could throw thee a few copies off, as they should be; but I had need have two fronts to this picture, like the Irishmans, or a panorama itself, for I view nearly all round. But " faint heart never won fair lady"-so here goes.

The sun is setting: to the eastward lies Glen Affric, as a map, 'mid the deepening fire-tints of approaching night, with its branch-glens, and silver threading streams, intersecting each other in their dim uncertainty of shade, in gloomy quietude; while the mountain sweeps, in their deep-toned tints, swing up into the crimsoned clouds, and melt with them in the distance. Southward, basing foot to foot with me, rises an amphitheatre of rock-work, formed of perpendicular and horizontal strata, two thousand feet high, with its pillars, terraces, platforms, ramparts, cornices, balustrades, all jutting or receding, according to the whim of

that really free mason, the earthquake. Enough. -Suppose a concaved tower of Babel realized to heaven, and thou hast it at once. Northward, something similar. Eastward blazes the enchanted scene-the waters of Loch Duic pearlstrewed with its white mansions, lays slumbering as a babe; with its mountain barrier, melting in the liquid flame of the sun set, and the curlclouds, eddying and dancing on its breast, like fairies: then sweeps the gold-glass sea; then the many-winged island, Sky, with its mountain cones, dressed in their blue and gold-touched robes: then its haunted island, with Scalpa,Rasay and Rona,and the groups in the Minch, gemming the sea as far as the larger islands of Lewis and Harris, which, sleeping in the horizon, float between neutralized sea and sky, like some æriated lands. Then there's the shipping,wind-bound in a fleet, in the same idle, flying, swimming mood: then the glen below, rife with the sweet chorus of sheep and cattle, whose sounds hang in the air longer at this hour than in the day time. Lastly, the "distance mellowed" tones of the waterfall, half way down this winding pass. And, finally, in the foreground, this world within a world,-this camera obscura,-self; worth all the rest put together.

Now, as thou art weary, we will proceed and seek for lodgings. I have dwelt somewhat long here, for this is the land of lands! Farewell Affric!

66

Here am I again, at a Highland Inn. Thou must know, notwithstanding the warning from my mushroom-supper friend, that I became pot longing, and consequently pot valiant," and was determined to try barter again, for some of the epicurean viands of a Highland inn, or Change-house. My host, one of your slow but sure bargainers, has diddled me out of steel, to about four times the amount of the utmost value of herring, milk and bed, by dint of his provoking perseverance. Clow, old Clow, is worsted this time completely. Then here is a Miss Titup of a relation who has had the honour of warming the great Glengary's bed, and what not, at Inverness, says, she has "often seen gentlemen travelling in disguise in the Highlands," and so swings off with a twist and a jirk, and a few pairs of scissors. Supper, milk, bannock, and herring, one hour and a half preparing; ditto, ditto, breakfast from half-past seven till ten preparing. A gentleman came in with very much the horse-jockey, black-leg,

appearance of a London runner, whom I thought my hunters might have slipped to scent me. I drew myself up like a tiger before he retires. Thou mayest guess my feelings; he bolted in, bolted a shillings-worth of neat whiskey down, sat himself down, got up again, ordered supper, stamped and cursed for one hour, while it did not come; discharged a load of oaths upon the Simon Sly-knave of a landlord, and started off without it at night, eight miles, to Glen Shee house. He was replete with sanguineous bustle and bounce, with that sort of bull-dog watchfulness of the eye, that ties your tongue in a crack, and makes you look for a scape-hole: that gentleman haunted my bed-side most of last night. If thou hadst but seen the thunder and lightning metropolitan giving his orders to this moveless, rocky, or" half-rocked” Highlander, like a will-o'-the-wisp flitting about a bog, thou wouldst have discovered the equinox and arctic of human passions. This said fox in lamb's clothing (the landlord) asked me to paint him a sign for his house, and though, like poor Morland, I should not have been half paid for it, I was determined to do it, for the sake of a joke which I intended playing him off.

While they were enquiring for paint, I commenced the design on paper, which, in compliment to our much neglected people was this:a public-house, with several of our beardy brethren round the door, with the sign of the Jew, and underwritten :

This is the Jew Inn,

And all sojourners in this part

We take you in"

'Ere you depart.

But, unfortunately, there was nothing but white paint to be had, and to paint a Jew in that emblem of virgin-purity, would have been absurd in the public opinion.-Black would have done.

But, to be grave. A sacrament is to be administered here, and people of all ranks are teeming in from every quarter, to do homage to their God: the road is lined with people, dressed in their homely best, and the magnificent lake is astir with crowded boats of " lairds" and peasantry. There is a solemnity in a Scottish sacrament which cannot be expressed, and a fixity and gravity in their reverence which is peculiar, and pervades the whole moral feature of Scot

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