is not a solitary instance of a noble pile untouched by time. There is not a byway as well as a highway in the city which does not contain some edifice of equal interest to those who love to live in the past as well as the present. Thus it may be readily understood that the proposed reconstruction of the centre of Florence (the "Riordinamento del centro di Firenze") is a matter which is likely to give rise to every variety of opinion and difference of taste; and it is to be hoped that nothing will be done hurriedly. The removal of the shops from the Ponte Vecchio is one of those changes which will distress the majority of the visitors to what Rogers calls "the fairest city of the earth." "Of all the fairest cities of the earth, And he adds prophetically "Tis the Past Contending with the Present." And now we are in the midst of this contention. The restorers do not deny that the shops of old jewellery and quaint bits of furniture, stray relics of old families and bygone days, are most picturesque, or that the Ponte Vecchio as at present is one of the most interesting features of Florence. How highly it is appreciated, is proved by the bright ladies who block the thoroughfare even in the very early morning to admire, to bargain, and occasionally to buy. The Ponte Vecchio to the ordinary tourist vies with the Duomo and the Uffizi in attractiveness; but this is precisely what the reformers complain of. They insist that the shops are an innovation on the original design of the bridge, that they are a serious obstacle to traffic, and interfere materially with the comfort of So seri pedestrians where there is scarcely any foot-pavement; for, as Lord Dalling remarked of Paris half a century since, the "city is only paved for the aristocracy." The effect of the shops is, that the carriage-way is thronged, and there is frequently confusion worthy of an Eastern bazaar. ous and dangerous has the bridge traffic become, that the authorities have at last, after the example of Scotland Yard, employed police to regulate it. The effect which would be produced by the abolition of the shops may be judged by the effect of their removal from the gallery leading from the Uffizi to the Ponte Vecchio. It is now an open arcade, and we are told to admire the open arches; but for this it is required to cross to the south side of the river, and so it can scarcely be said that the change has been of any advantage. First in the plan of the Riordinamento, comes the Mercato Vecchio (the market-place). From this already a number of dilapidated old houses and walls, covered with the stains and fungi of ages, have been removed, and the Palazzo Vecchio, of which Pulci wrote "Al monde è alimento Ed ad ogni altra piazza il pregio scena ”. is certainly cleaner for their removal, but this is all that can be said in favour of the change; for these old residences and quaint irregular constructions have (as the graceful observer and writer of Walks in Italian Cities' said) greatly added to the charm of the place; and now it is proposed to sweep the whole away, and with them many a time-hallowed association. The Via Pelliciera, where Benvenuto Cellina was taught his marvellous art, which added to the value of gems considered priceless, and a lustre to the most refined gold, is doomed; and the Via Calimala, the street of the " Beautiful Fleece," for the names of streets indicated in those days the guild to which they belongedall this it is intended to remove in order to form a great central square, which will undeniably add to the salubrity, but must detract from the beauty of the city. It seems from the report which has recently been published, that these changes have been contemplated for twenty years. In that space of time it might be supposed something definite would have been arrived at. Such, however, is far from being the case. The discussion is as lively as ever as has been remarked, this state of things is likely to continue, for the simple fact that the comprehensive scheme would require a great outlay. George Herbert calls building a "sweet impoverishing," and "demolition" is little less expensive an amusement. the latter. But it may be remarked that their principles, like the Frenchman's, are not borne out by practice. For instance, the house of Dante was certainly in a very dilapidated state; but it might have been propped up, and many future generations would have looked on the walls within which the great master wrote the Divina Commedia.' And the interest of the house was not limited to Dante. For two centuries it was occupied as a wine-shop, in which all the illustrious Florentines congregated, amongst whom were Michael Angelo and Benvenuto Cellini. The great Italian taverns of the middle ages were like our own in the last century, the clubs of the day, where statesmen, artists, wits and scholars, youth and age, resorted. Until quite recently Dante's house was left unchanged: it has now actually been rebuilt-it may be, in strict accordance with its original plan, but to the entire loss of all that made it interesting. From the financial report of the The house of Dante, preserved Public Works Committee, which for so many centuries, is only one was issued at the close of last year, of the numerous instances of the it would appear that the estimate interest taken by the Italians in for all the improvements, altera- their historical associations. The tions, and restorations was six mil- taste for renovation, or as many lions of lire about a quarter of a call it for destruction, dates from million sterling. This does not the period of United Italy, when seem a large amount to expend on the old ideas were supplanted by the development of a great city; the new. There is a remarkable but it is much to lavish on æsthetic cook-shop in the Mercato Vecchio, experiments at a time when the which has been in existence for taxation amounts to 30 per cent five centuries. That is a long on all incomes. (Young democra- period to have enjoyed an untic monarchies are not created for equalled reputation for frittatas, nothing!) In the report alluded which men of all degrees have to, the principles laid down for the eaten there. Admirable specimens guidance of the restorers are ex- of majolica and curious cooking cellent. It says, that where there utensils decorate the walls of the exists any personal or historic in- shop; and next door is a tavern terest in any house or site, it of equal antiquity, which the should not be interfered with un- greatest as well as gayest of less it is to add to the solidity of the Signori frequented. Well, all the former, or the advantage of this is to be destroyed so soon as any funds for the work of ruin ferred materialism to the beautiare available. It is truly sad to ful. But much joy was felt by think that in a very brief space of the few who find happiness in time this interesting district will things of beauty and graceful assobe replaced by a large square, with ciations; for these had been sadprobably a statue of Garibaldi or dened at the thought of the Arno Cavour in the centre. The Ghetto, flowing through streets of uninteror Jews' quarter, containing a great esting modern buildings, and the number of architectural gems, and many slopes of Fiesole covered picturesque points of view such as with suburban villas. The change artists love to paint and Ruskin was indeed welcome to such who to describe, has been closed long love Florence, as Florence only can since, preparatory to its destruc- be loved by those who have long tion. Here the very progress of dwelt within view and beneath the decay may be watched; for now, shadow of the Duomo. uncared for, the storm can beat into the deserted dwellings, and partially anticipate the hand of the destroyer. It is even doubtful whether a great portion of the Via Calsaioli will be spared-a street where Donatello and Michelozzi laboured for the love of art and the rivalry in beautiful workmanship. If all these outward and visible signs of the illustrious past are to be removed, it will be a great price to pay even for a freer and grander view of the Duomo and the noble sister edifices. As Florence was not destined to be the permanent capital of the new Italy, it is greatly to be regretted that for a short time it was so considered; for the Florentine imagination expanded, and with it all the plans for the creation of a city worthy of such a grand future. The owners of land indulged in the most extravagant expectations. Florence was to be known, not as the City of the Lily, but the City of the World. During the brief period of its pride, large fortunes were realised; half the old city walls were levelled, to afford room for the new capital. So when the royal migration to Rome was an accomplished fact, there was much grief among the speculators and those who pre The traveller who has time to make himself acquainted with Florence, and now moves on to Rome, will rejoice that the nominis umbra has spared the beautiful city, when he sees the degradation to which Rome is subjected. Happy those who visited Rome before it was Haussmannised, and miles of edifices of hideous monotony replaced the ruins of the Empire, and peopled the once classic solitudes! No longer can the student "with beating heart roam o'er the haunted ground," picturing the glorious past. With the temporal power the home of our youth has been swept away: no more shall the "Orphans of the earth now turn to thee, Lone mother of dead empires." Where the widowed mother sat is a vast metropolis, which in all probability will extend in time to the very foot of the Alban hills. So, on the whole, all classes except the speculators may be satisfied that Florence has been left alone; and we must only hope that the restorers will move with caution. Let them take warning from the severe judgment which has been passed on the restoration of the palace of the Doges and the Basilica of San Marco at Venice. The facciata of the Duomo is undeniably so admirable a work that every confidence can be placed in the Florentine taste. It is very gratifying to know that a most distinguished Englishman, Mr Temple Leader, who many years since occupied a conspicuous position in the House of Commons, and who possesses a thorough knowledge of classic art and the keenest appreciation of the beautiful, is a prominent member of the Improvement as he was of the Facciata Committee. The principle, already mentioned, laid down by these gentlemen, that where there is a work of genius or any edifice remarkable and picturesque it should be preserved, is admirable; but then this very question of preservation requires grave consideration and excellent judgment. Many a picture has been injured by the process of cleaning, and in giving solidity to a fabric its character often suffers; so all buildings associated with the past should at all times be touched with a loving hand. An architect who is a mere builder too frequently is a failure. A restorer must not only be experienced in his craft, but full of poetic sentiment-if not an artist, at least rich in artistic feeling. Let it be remembered that Time, the destroyer, frequently invests objects with an additional beauty and charm: incongruities which architects denounce may be prized by the painter and the poet; regular features are not always those which touch the heart. May the restorers of Florence proceed with care. As yet they have done little to arouse adverse criticism, and much to win universal admiration. Let them continue their labour in the same spirit of love and reverence, and Florence will ever remain worthy of the name of The Beautiful. LAMINGTON. ful. any funds for the work of ruin ferred materialism to the beautiare available. It is truly sad to But much joy was felt by think that in a very brief space of the few who find happiness in time this interesting district will things of beauty and graceful assobe replaced by a large square, with ciations; for these had been sadprobably a statue of Garibaldi or dened at the thought of the Arno Cavour in the centre. The Ghetto, flowing through streets of uninteror Jews' quarter, containing a great esting modern buildings, and the number of architectural gems, and many slopes of Fiesole covered picturesque points of view such as with suburban villas. The change artists love to paint and Ruskin was indeed welcome to such who to describe, has been closed long love Florence, as Florence only can since, preparatory to its destruc- be loved by those who have long tion. Here the very progress of dwelt within view and beneath the decay may be watched; for now, shadow of the Duomo. uncared for, the storm can beat into the deserted dwellings, and partially anticipate the hand of the destroyer. It is even doubtful whether a great portion of the Via Calsaioli will be spared-a street where Donatello and Michelozzi laboured for the love of art and the rivalry in beautiful workmanship. If all these outward and visible signs of the illustrious past are to be removed, it will be a great price to pay even for a freer and grander view of the Duomo and the noble sister edifices. As Florence was not destined to be the permanent capital of the new Italy, it is greatly to be regretted that for a short time it was so considered; for the Florentine imagination expanded, and with it all the plans for the creation of a city worthy of such a grand future. The owners of land indulged in the most extravagant expectations. Florence was to be known, not as the City of the Lily, but the City of the World. During the brief period of its pride, large fortunes were realised; half the old city walls were levelled, to afford room for the new capital. So when the royal migration to Rome was an accomplished fact, there was much grief among the speculators and those who pre The traveller who has time to make himself acquainted with Florence, and now moves on to Rome, will rejoice that the nominis umbra has spared the beautiful city, when he sees the degradation to which Rome is subjected. Happy those who visited Rome before it was Haussmannised, and miles of edifices of hideous monotony replaced the ruins of the Empire, and peopled the once classic solitudes ! No longer can the student "with beating heart roam o'er the haunted ground," picturing the glorious past. With the temporal power the home of our youth has been swept away: no more shall the "Orphans of the earth now turn to thee, Lone mother of dead empires." Where the widowed mother sat is a vast metropolis, which in all probability will extend in time to the very foot of the Alban hills. So, on the whole, all classes except the speculators may be satisfied that Florence has been left alone; and we must only hope that the restorers will move with caution. Let them take warning from the severe judgment which has been passed on the restoration of the palace of the Doges and the Basilica of San Marco at Venice. The facciata of the Duomo is undeniably so admirable a work that |