VIII.

Fortress of

CHAP. panied us in a boat round the Bay. We visited the fortress, and saw the slaves at work. This Christiania. fortress is almost impregnable by land. We were much delighted with the view of the river and the country from the ramparts. The water is so land-locked, that its appearance is that of a fine extensive lake, ornamented with islands, and surrounded by blue mountains in very pleasing shapes: but as far as we could judge of their elevation by the view of them, they have not the height of the mountains which surround the lakes of Westmoreland and Cumberland. The fortress seems to be strong; and there are some fine brass cannon upon the ramparts. The garrison consisted of twelve hundred men, including some chasseurs; and there were, besides, four companies of artillery. Afterwards, having dined privately with Mr. Anker, we retired with him to another apartment, where an elegant dessert had been set forth in the English way, with decanters of wine and glasses. We conversed with our intelligent host respecting the mines we had so lately visited; and he presented to us a specimen of native gold, found at a mine belonging to himself at Nummedalen near Kongsberg. In the evening, to gratify our curiosity, he put on his magnificent winter-dress, consisting of a pelisse, collar,

and boots, of the choicest black furs. The pelisse was made entirely of the skins of sables, and the collar and boots of bear's-skin. We had examined the fur-shops, in the hope of finding the skins of the Cat-Gaub, or Norwegian Lynx; but the animal, although sometimes taken, is certainly very rare in the country; and it is fortunate for the inhabitants that its visits are not more frequent. We spent the last evening of our stay in Christiania with this benevolent man; and having supped with him in the presence of his family, bade them farewell.

CHAP.

VIII.

The Author again sets out for SWEDEN-Execrable state of the Roads before the snow falls-Holen-Change in the Roads in approaching Sweden-Spires of Norwegian Churches-Kiölstad-Hæberg-Cataract of Fon Fossen -Ous-Sindby-Appearance made by a Fair at Kongswinger-Money of the Country-Edsbroen-MagnorBoundary between NORWAY and SWEDEN-Singular instance of honesty in a Peasant-Morast-HagaStrand-Homeric Torches-Extraordinary Costume of the Natives of WERMELAND-Aspect of the Country

Conse

Consequences of a recent Dearth-Hogsalla-LeerholSkamnäs-Improved appearance of the land-CARLSTAD -Exports and Imports - Population - River ClaraBrästegård-Molkem-Change in the dress of the Peasants-Manner of keeping the Roads in repair-Brättefors-Boulders-Trees-Animals-Philipstad-Uniform appearance of the Swedish Towns-Dress of the Natives-Enclosures-Juniper-trees-Onshytta-Two

species of Tetrao or Black-Cock-Persberg-Descent into the Iron-Mines-Catastrophe which befell a Female Miner-Bottom of the Persberg Mine-Striking scene in the Great Cavern-Imbedded state of the Ore-Långbanshytta - Machinery for the Mine-Pumps-Saxån— WESTMANIA-Hälleforss-Nytorp-NyakopparbergMinerals-Laxbro-Beauty of the Lakes-diminution of their waters-Hogforss-Hellsion-Ostanbo-Smedbacka-Blood-Cakes Entrance of DALECARLIAVarieties and luxuriance of the Fungi and MusciBommarsbo-Home Manufacture of Candles-RussGården-Naglarby-General Features of DALECARLIA -Character of the Natives-Dialect-Antient Dance Original use of the Runic Staves-Retreat of Gustavus Vasa-Approach to Fahlun-External Aspect of its famous Copper-Mine.

IX.

The author

In the morning of the 29th of October, we left CHAP. Christiania in our phaëton, and once more began our journey towards SWEDEN. For this pur- again sets pose, it was necessary that we should retrace out for our former steps as far as Moe, before we took a different route; but the roads were so

Sweden.

IX.

Execrable

Roads be

fore the snow falls,

CHAP. execrable, that we were actually employed the whole day in getting to this place, although state of the distant only three Danish miles and a half from Christiania. We passed through a beautiful valley between Romsaas and Schesmoe, as before. The inns were bad; and this being added to the wretched state of the roads, and the little progress we were able to effect, made us think that we had acted perhaps unwisely in not waiting for the winter season, which is the best time for travelling in Scandinavia, especially when the country is not likely to offer any thing in its scenery remarkable either for its grandeur or picturesque beauty. When the snow has once fallen, and the sledge-way is open, a traveller, wrapped up in his furs, may prosecute his journey in the open air, not only with the utmost expedition, but with comfort. But we intended to visit mines; and, in our search for minerals and plants, wished to see as much as possible of the uncovered earth, before the woodlands of Norway and Sweden, their hills and their valleys, rocks, mountains, lakes, and rivers, were all shrouded in one vast sheet of ice and snow.

The next morning, Oct. 30, after a stormy night, dawned most merrily; the sun burst forth in splendour; even the feathered songsters, in