LIVERPOOL.-LETTER II.

My Dear S.,

I now find myself again in this place, after a lapse of nearly forty years. It is altered entirely, from my young recollections, though the interest I take in its present appearance is great, and, indeed, increased from a view of its location, and a knowledge of its history and progressive improvements. The town is finely fitted for displaying the connection between the old and the new world, which, by its commerce, it so happily promotes; and yet, though extensive and opulent, it is apparently an appurtenance neither of the one nor of the other. It is a link between them, and, indeed, in its general appearance, very much resembles our own New York. The streets have been laid out with no respect to uniformity in length, breadth, or the quality of the buildings on either side. The houses are of brick; the storehouses are lofty; the shops commodious and splendid: an elegant public edifice often meets the eye, and gives variety to the scenery. In the construc. tion of the buildings, there is not so much of granite, or of marble, as the citizens of New York have employed; but the English have more of the red freestone cut and carved. Their brick works are dull and heavy, for the painting and pointing are both neglected. There is evidently more stateliness, and less vivacity, in this style of building.

The town shows well, when the stranger approaches it from the channel. We turned short to the right at "the Rock," which, VOL. I. JUNE, 1831.

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with its proper lighted towers, and those on the adjacent hills, serves as an elegant beacon to the mariner by night and by day. Our course was south, up the Mersey, as if entering into the heart of the "fast-anchored Isle." The rich grounds and beautiful villas and valleys of Cheshire, are seen on the western shore, and the fields, in the beginning of March, were in complete verdure. The opposite side of the river exhibited a contrast. A forest of masts rose up to view, inclosed in a series of spacious docks, surrounded with keys of a magnificent structure, of cut stone, and crowned with a busy population, contributing to the opulence of "merry old England.' The flowing tide soon bore the Caledonia to the basin, which opens by a drawbridge to Prince's dock. There we stepped on shore. I was conducted by Mr. Connel, a merchant of Montreal, acquainted in Liverpool, to the Hotel No. 1, Old Church Yard. Here, after traveling over a pavement of grave stones, he and I, together with Mr. Burchell, another fellow passenger, found apartments and entertainment. Thus, my first lodgings on the shores of Europe, was over the grave yard, and in consonance with my own solemn, but not sad feelings. For years, my dear S., I have familiarized my mind with the place where "the weary are at rest." It is a pleasant prospect, when, as in this case literally, we may overlook the tabernacles of the dead, and distinctly view the course beyond; for there is a course which conducts believers to the haven which they desire to sce.

We ordered an early dinner, and, in the mean time, took a walk, to see what objects were at hand. At the custom house, treated with great courtesy and dispatch, we soon settled our concerns; and from Mr. HORNE, our host, we had, in time, and with due attention, all that we se. lected from "the bill of fare." We had, of course, a long afternoon for reconnoitering, and a longer evening for reflection. To employ most of it in writing is the task to which I subjected myself, when retiring from company, I entered my own apartment for the night.

Wednesday, 10th March, I continued my survey.

This is a modern sea-port, hav. ing its position in the county palatine of Lancashire, which associates in recollection, and in fact, the days of old with the present improvements in the useful arts. It is not to be compared with London, or Paris, or Rome. It bears no resemblance to our city of Washington. Of yesterday compared with the age of Romulus, it is of old compared with him who gave name to the federal city-the seat of the government of the United States; and yet, though but recently emerged from obscurity, its political and commercial rela. tions have become so important that it cannot be visited without interest. The antiquarian, it is true, finds no obsolete inscriptions to decipher; there are no signs of barbarous or classic remains, but there is much to show the power of enterprise, conducted by sci. ence and taste. Situated on the eastern shore of the river Mersey, it stretches about two miles from

north to south, and is almost of the same extent from west to east, in latitude 53° 22′, and longitude 2o 57'.

The Mersey rises and flows an inconsiderable stream from the borders of Derby and Yorkshire, but meeting the tide water, it opens into an estuary a few miles above Liverpool, and separating the Chester shore from that of Lancashire, it empties itself among the sand banks between the mouths of the Dee and the Ribble, in the Irish channel.* The orthography of Liverpool is now settled, by universal usage. For a long time it was otherwise, because the etymo. logy was unknown. The sounds were similar, but the letters which composed the word very different, according to the opinions of discordant writers. The origin, indeed, of the last syllable has generally been admitted; therefore, Puyl and Pole no longer obtrude themselves. Even Poole itself has dropped the final e. The meaning of a pool is not to be mis. taken and there was a pool or natural basin in a creek from the estuary, to which a road led-the present Pool-lane. Into the same

*"From Warrington, the Mersey grows broader; opens into a wide mouth near Lither

poole: it is the most convenient place for set

ting sail to Ireland "

CAMPDEN, 1607.

Derrick, in his letter to the earl of Cork, thus writes, August 20, 1760 "Leverpoole stands on the decline of a hill, about six miles from the sea. It is washed by a broad, rapid stream, called the Mersee, where ships lying at anchor are quite exposed to the sudden squalls of wind that often sweep the surface from the

flat Cheshire shore on the west, or the highlands of Lancashire that overlook the town from the east. I need not inform your lordship that the principal exports of Leverpoole, are all kinds of woollen and worsted goods, with other Manchester and Yorkshire, Sheffield and Birmingham wares. There are here three good inns. For ten pence a man dines elegantly, at an ordinary, consisting of ten or a dozen dishes" (The worthy writer, were he now to visit this town, would find good living more expensive.)

meeting-houses under other dissenting names. Many dissenters from the establishment love liberty, and understand the gospel; and, though negligent of the ecclesiastical uniformity once respected over the land, they often unite in noble schemes of benevolence, to co-operate in the Christian charities for which Great Bri. tain is justly celebrated among the nations.

The town of Liverpool is not deficient in public charities, which evince the meliorating effects of the Christian religion among a civilized people. However far those who have the wealth of the land, and have influence in society, come short of their own duty in personal religion, it is cause of gratitude to Him who has the hearts of all classes at his disposal, that he makes them provide for the wants of the needy. On the first day I sought for evidence of English compassion, and walked up to the top of Shaw's brow, to see the site of the old infirmary opened in 1749; it gave place to the more extensive building in Brownlow street, 1824.

Yon spacious roof, where, hush'd in calm re pose,

The drooping widow half forgets her woes. Yon calm retreat, where, screened from every ill,

The helpless orphan's throbbing heart lies still.

There is an imposing grandeur in the general effect of this edi. fice, far exceeding that of any similar erection in the town. The width, including the wings, is 204 feet, and the depth, from the front of the colonnade to the back, 108. Six massive columns, of the Ionic order, with corresponding pilas. ters in the angles, support a plain

broad frieze, and a bold projecting cornice continued along the entire front. There are 138 windows in the front of the main building and its wings. The infirmary occupies, with its gar. dens, the parallelogram formed by the London road, continued to Pembroke place on the north, Dover street on the south, Astor street on the east, and Brownlow street on the west. It is a subject of regret, that of this sumptuous edifice there is not a distant view sufficient to embrace, at once, an idea of its magnificence; for there is nothing in the town equal to it in grandeur, except the exchange buildings, with the town hall in front.

The buildings for the accommodation and instruction of the blind command respect on another account. It is for their use, not for their elegance, that they deserve the attention of the visitant. The external appearance is characterized by its neatness and simplicity. It is situate in LONDON ROAD, at the corner of Duncan street; and has been car. ried on since the year 1791, with remarkable success. Here a class of beings, otherwise wretched, are by proper culture rendered happy themselves and useful members of society. An example is set to other towns in the kingdom, which has been happily followed. Five similar schools have been established upon the plan of this one, namely, in the cities of Lon. don, Dublin, Edinburgh, Bristol, and Norwich. In this asylum nearly EIGHT HUNDRED blind persons have found a resting place. They are taught memoriter, and learn readily from the reading of

others. They cheerfully join in the spiritual songs during public worship, for they have a church also for the blind ;* and a strict attention is paid to their health, their morals, and their religious conduct. The pupils who have an ear for music, and many of them are so, are instructed on the system of Dr. Bell, to practice that fine art themselves, and to teach it to others; and in tuning and stringing musical instruments they are proficients. Fifty organists have already come forth from this school. But the principal occupation of the bereaved of sight are spinning, basket making, manufacturing of twine, &c. and weaving of worsted rugs. Many of the inmates are supported by their own means and their friends; and they all appear cheerful and happy.

The ophthalmic institution, that for relieving diseases of the ear— the lunatic asylum-the school of industry-the alms-house-and the stranger's friend society, will all amply reward the visits of the traveler. Religious societies, under various names, also abound in Liverpool; and those which contribute to the sciences are many in number.

The building called the New

*The church communicates with the school by a subterraneous passage, and is a beautiful piece of architecture. The portico cannot fail to attract the attention of the connoisseur. It is of the Doric order, and an exact copy, it is

exchange attracts, however, the chief notice. Its location is the best which the town could afford, but it is not so good as would be desirable. It is better every way than the site of the exchange in New York, but far inferior to that of the city hall.

The first stone of the structure was laid the 30th June, 1803; and the entire cost of the building is not far from half a million of dollars. The area, inclosed by four fronts, 197 feet by 178. To the exchange itself properly belongs only three of the sides. The fourth is on the town hall, in front. This elegant building stands at the north end of Castle street, where it joins with Dale street, which is extended, nearly at a right angle, to Shaw's brow eastward, and is itself the widest in the town. This building, once intended for an exchange, is the most superb erection in the town. It is sumptuously fitted up. The offices, dining-rooms, banquet and and ball rooms are spacious, and, while replete with minute beauties, display elegant proportions. The inside of the grand dome, when viewed from the floor, presents one of the noblest coups d'œil imaginable. It is illuminated by spacious lateral lights; the stucco work is admirably colored; the entire height, from the pave. ment to the centre of the dome, is is 106 feet, and the whole is in

Panhellemus in the island of Egina. The ar chitect, Mr. J. Foster; made many discoveries valuable to antiquarians, during his residence

in that island in 1811. The church was opened by Bishop Law on the 6th Oct. 1819. One half

of the pews are reserved for the accommodation of strangers; and it is capable of admitting more than a thousand hearers without inconvenience to the blind, for whose use it was

tecture. A figure of Britannia, in a sitting posture, crowns the dome, and below, outside, is a circular gallery, which will amply repay the labor of ascent by the

present does not exceed 150, with their attendants.

The town falls under the eve in a