by the severity of last winter, but it seems now quite restored, and perhaps has never been better than at present since I left America. I suffered more from the cold than from the heat on the journey, as the nights were generally chilling, and we often started before dawn on our day's ride. On the plains of Suttanieh, on the eighteenth instant, at sunrise, the mercury stood at thirtyseven degrees of Fahrenheit. On the other hand, at mid-day, the mercury generally ranged from 90 to 110 degrees in the sun, and in one instance it stood at 104 degrees in our tent. This degree of heat seemed to me rather grateful than otherwise, for I had scarcely been thoroughly warmed since the last winter. As a protection against heat as well as against cold, I uniformly wore what would be called in New England a winter dress, and would earnestly recommend the same precaution to all who travel where the temperature daily has a wide range; and indeed to all who are exposed to the piercing, scorching rays of the sun. In such a situation, paradoxical as it may seem, one is cooler when warmly clad, than if so lightly dressed that the rays of the sun penetrate through the clothing. I apprehend that in many if not in all cases of "coup de soleil," or stroke of the sun, a main cause of such fatal exposure has been thin clothing which allowed the burning beams to reach the very marrow of the hapless victim. On our arrival at the capital, through the kindness of J. P. Riach, Esq., with whose truly benevolent and christian spirit we are already acquainted, we were invited to take up our temporary abode in this city at the English palace. This gentleman is at present in charge of the English embassy at the Persian court, his excellency the right honorable Henry Ellis having returned on his way homeward as far as Tabreez, and the new ambassador, Mr. McNiell, not having yet arrived. The king is encamped with a division of his army at a short distance from the city, and all the English gentlemen are also in camp, and under orders to march with his majesty whenever and wherever he goes. I have already informed you that the king purposes to take Herat, and one division of his army, consisting of about 8,000 troops, with twenty-four pieces of artillery, marched two or three weeks ago for Khorassan. The remaining corps, mustering 6,000 or 8,000 men, are daily expecting orders to follow, with the king himself at their head. The prime minister declares that in forty days from the present time he will make Herat flat as the palm of his hand, destroying every human being in that devoted city. It seems probable, however, that the Heratees have little to fear the present season from the boastful and bloody threat of Meerza Hajee Agazee. You can have little idea of the uncertainty and want of organization and judicious counsel which characterize every thing pertaining to the present government. I have been informed on the best authority that the division of the army already on the march have obliged by their lawless rapacity most of the inhabitants of the villages on their route, to leave their homes and flee beyond the desolating reach of an armed band that treat their own country far worse than a civilized enemy would do. This is by no means a new thing in Persia; it is almost proverbial that her armies are more terrible to friends than to foes. When the king marched from Tabreez for the capital, after the death of his predecessor, Feth Ali Shah, his soldiers destroyed many villages on their way, and an English gentleman who accompanied the expedition told me that on his return, in the severity of winter, in these ill-fated villages he found no other inhabitants, except starving cats; and all the fuel he could procure was the little rafters of the mud-covered roofs; doors, windows, and every other combustible material easily accessible having been consumed on the march to Teheran. But notwithstanding these excesses, the king is universally represented by the Europeans at his court, as being a lover of justice, and really desirous for the improvement of his country. When I inquired of the English gentlemen how the last division of their army was to subsist in marching through a country already wasted by the troops in advance, they replied that I must ask the king and the prime minister that, for they themselves were totally ignorant on this subject. Some of these gentlemen, who, I trust, possess, not only genuine philanthropy, but a truly christian spirit, and no small share of missionary feeling, after years of painful disappointment, have come to the conclusion, that, under the existing order of things, evangelical benevolence can do little for Persia. They do not desire that any one should take their opinions as the guide of his plans; but with hearts pained in view of the prospects around them, they tell the sad tale of their experience. I confess that in all the researches I have made in regard to the missionary work in Persia, before and since my leaving America, I have never met so serious aI am taking letter to that place, and discouragement as in the statements of among them one to the aged meerza, these excellent men; but I cannot yet Seyd Ali, who assisted the devoted Marbring myself to feel that these views cor- tyn in translating the New Testament respond entirely with the reality, though into the Persian language. I am continually learning new and painful truths, and am becoming prepared to meet others still more distressing. The dear brethren with whom I travel feel the melancholy influence of this new light, or rather darkness, which we find reflected on our prospects from Teheran, and I trust that we are all disposed most seriously to inquire what the Lord will have us to do. The English gentlemen very justly remarked, that it was no small consideration for a missionary to waste perhaps thirty years in one field, when in another he might have been most usefully employed. From all the information we have been able to collect, both from the English and Russian gentlemen at the Persian court, there is good reason to conclude that the king is still anxious to have a European high school at his capital. But the exhausted state of his treasury leaves him no means to patronize it, and the countenance he might give the undertaking, it is feared, would have but a limited and temporary influence. His excellency Mr. Ellis, British ambassador to Persia, informed us, that probably we should find more bigotry at Isfahan than in any other city of Persia, as the principal moostahid, or chief doetor of the law in the kingdom, usually resided there, and the Persians looked to the capital of the Sufies as the grand seat of the Sheah faith. He thought, however, that in consideration of the Armenian population at Isfahan, and in view of the salubrity of the climate, and the comparative cheapness of living there, it was perhaps one of the most inviting fields for missionary labor in Persia. The statement respecting the bigotry at Isfahan has not only been confirmed to us by the English gentlemen here, but has received additional strength. Indeed it is their conviction, that nothing can now be done for the Mussulmans of that city. And we have had the unhappiness to learn also, that the Armenian bishop at Isfahan is a man from whom we can expect little encouragement. In making these communications I have written with all that frankness and simplicity I should use were you transported to this place, and now seated in an inquiring attitude before me. And methinks I hear you say, as I pause for a moment, "Are you at last discouraged, and do you now wish to bid Persia a final farewell?" No; is my prompt and firm reply. My hopes are not all blasted yet, and till God, by his clear, commanding providence, and by the dictates of his Spirit, recalls me from the field to which I believe he has led me, though for what purpose, perhaps I know not, let me not be removed to another sphere of labor. Let me inquire at Isfahan, let me try at Shiraz, let me still wait on the Lord and be of good courage. We may yet see of his salvation in Persia; methinks I even now discern it, as holy men of old saw the glorious coming of Him who was to be the light of the Gentiles. It was our intention to have resumed our journey on the last day of this month, or on the first of July. We may, however, be obliged to wait some days longer for firmans from the king, A Turkish ambassador has recently arrived at the Persian court, and the great festive attentions he is receiving clog still more the dull wheels of business in the Persian divan. Should we find the missionary prospects of Isfahan brighter than our present hopes, one of my companions will probably remain there during the winter, while the other expects to return to Tabreez next autumn. It is not unlikely that I may stop some months at Isfahan, if one of these brethren do the same, and perhaps we may visit Shiraz in company very early next spring, and after sufficient delay at that place, return northward by way of Kermanshaw, Hamadan, and Senna. This is only a plan seen dimly in the distance; the ever-changing current of circumstances may separate us, or together carry us forward by another route. Should both of my companions return to Tabreez in the auShiraz, we are informed, is the grand tumn, I shall probably go down to Shiseat of Soofeeism in the kingdom, that raz at the same time. If I am spared to multitudes of the people there are Soo- reach Isfahan; you may expect to hear fees, and that from a long and extensive from me again at that city, but I now acquaintance with the English, as well give you, so far as is in my power, the as from their sceptical notions, the Shi- probabilities for the future, in order to razees are perhaps, more liberal in mat-aid, as much as possible, your plans reters of religion, than any other Persians.specting the Persian mission. I regard it as a high providential favor, that I en-, brick bridge that spans the channel of joy the company and counsel of those the river, which at this season is reduced more experienced than myself, and who to a small stream by the numerous caare earnestly seeking to extend the Re-nals irrigating the adjoining country. deemer's kingdom. God is taking care Such an avenue as the Chehar Bagh, of me in this way, and enabling me to about forty yards wide and half a mile in report sooner to the American churches extent, is a fit subject for national pride, what are the prospects for missionary yet it appears to have received but a labor in Persia, than I should have been scanty portion of attention since the days able to do, had an associate early follow- of the Suffavean kings. I have never ed me from my native land. But if my yet seen an avenue, which, in beauty dear brethren at home feel an interest in and grandeur, can compare with the the salvation of the Persians, let them|| Chahar Bagh, or Four Gardens, so named not cease to importune God that he on account of this number of palaces and would give them repentance unto the ac- gardens which adorned its sides till deknowledging of the truth. The evan- stroyed by the Vandal hands of the Afgelization of this people is an arduous, ghans. an amazing work; a work of prayer and faith for man, a work of special grace for God. Arrival at Isfahan-Armenians-Opposition to the Distribution of Books. Under date of July 26th, Mr. Merrick con tinues the account of his tour. My companions, Rev. Messrs. Hoernle and Schneider, and myself left Teheran on the 4th instant, and through the kind providence of our heavenly Father, arrived at a village in the neighborhood of Isfahan on the 15th, where we concluded to leave our baggage until we could procure a house for our accommodation in the city or in the suburb Joolpa. From Teheran I wrote you that my health was much improved by the journey from Tabreez to that place, but I am sorry to say it was impaired again by coming thence to Isfahan. The principal cause of this decline was night trav-| elling and its attendant circumstances, to which may be added the unwholesome water of the Great Salt Desert, a portion of which we crossed in our route. The day following our arrival near Isfahan we visited the city, and waited on his excellency Khosroo Khan, the governor, with whom we had the honor of breakfasting. Khosroo Khan was formerly a Georgian slave, converted probably without argument to the mussulman faith. He advised us to take a house at Joolpa, rather than in the city, assigning as a reason the fact that there were no Mohammedans in that suburb. Joolpa, you are aware, is situated opposite Isfahan, on the eastern bank of the Zeinderood, and in passing to it, we rode down the grand avenue of Chehar Bagh, shaded with four rows of lofty chimar trees, many of them with trunks five feet in diameter, and then crossed the noble The sight of crosses surmounting the domes of the Armenian churches, was suited to awaken a pleasing and solemn train of recollections, and was hailed as an evidence that we were once more among those who had not denied the name of our Lord. The innocent and significant symbol of the cross has been sadly abused; yet to one who has wandered far away into regions where Christianity is denounced as horrid infidelity, this emblem seems invested with a religious value which cannot be appreciated where all we meet are called by the name of Christ. The archbishop of the Armenians at Joolpa, Hohannes, received us courteously and assisted in procuring for us a house to which we removed on the 18th instant, the 17th being Sabbath. My companions had brought a large supply of Persian, Armenian, and Hebrew books, and on the Sabbath we remained at the village; great numbers, mollahs and people, applied for Persian books, some dozens of which, chiefly the Psalms and Proverbs, were distributed. This matter was soon noised in the city, with the additional report that the Frankees had come to attack the Mohammedan religion. A famous and wealthy saint here, whose house is a sanctuary from the laws, and from the command of the king himself, Hadjee Seyed Mohammed Bakher by name, to whom the village where books were distributed belongs, has declared, as we are informed, that the said books must be collected and destroyed, and these dangerous Frankees brought to a public discussion on the subject of religion, which is of course synonymous with indignant public condemnation. We have no fear, however, of the threatened tribunal, nor do we suppose that any trouble will be taken to destroy the books which caused so much alarm, but it has been judged expedient to offer books for sale only, as topic, with which they hope to confound every believer in the gospel. A judicious and talented missionary, by pursuing a quiet course here for a considerable time, might succeed at length, in so far allaying the apprehensions and gaining the respect of the people, as to speak with considerable freedom on the subject of religion; provided he should make no attack on the subject of Mohammedanism. A skilful physician would enjoy peculiar advantages for gaining the favor of this people, yet even such a man would find many thorns along his path. If he practised gratuitously, it would forthwith be reported that he was aiming to win the confidence and subvert the religion of his patients; and should he make charges, he must insist on the vexatious business of payment, or soon be treated with scorn as a weak pusilanimous character. A medium course might perhaps be adopted, and I certainly think it of much importance, should a missionary station be formed here, that a physician should be connected with it. Isfahan is justly celebrated for the mildness and salubrity of its climate, the abundance and excellence of its fruits, and for the variety and extent of its manufactures. But we are disappointed in finding the market so dear. The expense of maintaining a family here would probably be as great as at Teheran. the governor himself had recommended;,, The sonship of Christ is their grand and although many applications have been made for books, yet not one has been bought, a proof that a desire for religious truth did not prompt the applicants. Many who have come for books and captious discussion are mollahs who have been very earnest in inquiring what books we had, and when our sacred books only were enumerated, they would eagerly ask again if we had no others, evidently suspecting that we had some work in which their religion was directly assailed. You have probably heard of the prodigious excitement created at Bagdad about a year ago, by the rash distribution of books reflecting on Mohammedanism, and which was near causing the total destruction of all the Armenians in that city, although they were in no manner of way concerned in the said distribution, which was conducted solely by a converted Jew, who carried his books to the bazaar, and gave away indiscriminately to all who would receive them. A mob collected, the Jew fled, his books were publicly burnt, himself being sent instantly to Bussora by the British agent at Bagdad, and the poor innocent Armenians were only saved from destruction by the vigorous efforts of the garrison. And it was several days before they again ventured out of their houses, such was the fanatical rage of the Mohammedans on account of this attack on their faith. This story is well known here; the archbishop related it to us with evident fear that we might, by distributing Persian books, cause a similar uproar at Isfahan, and he has since explicitly stated his apprehensions on this subject. We have abundant evidence that this is a bigoted, fanatical city, and although the higher classes are polite to us, yet I never have witnessed in any other place either of Turkey or Persia, Surely your faith can bear some trial, such rudeness as at Isfahan. If we have and if any cannot in this respect endure, received no direct insult, yet in passing yet let them bow submissive to the will the bazaars we have seen and heard of God, who giveth repentance to nations much scorn expressed towards us. At as well as to individuals. Hear then a Koom, that city renowned for bigotry, simple story, not written in despair, but the people seemed rather to gaze on us in candor, and with the cheerful confiwith well-meaning curiosity, nor did we dence that God will bring light out of experience there, or in any other part of darkness, and order out of confusion. Persia we have traversed, any uncivil treatment. Isfahan seems indeed, the most difficult place for a missionary we have yet explored, although we do not consider it as entirely hopeless. The people are ready to meet us at our own door on the subject of religion, and often appear not a little vexed that they cannot draw us into worse than useless discussion, and "entangle us in their talk." Having arrived at Isfahan, with his travelling companions, Mr. Merrick, on the 30th of July, thus writes of the Darkening Prospects of the Mission— Years of laborious research and prayerful inquiry led me to believe that a door of hope and rich promise was opening in Persia for the dissemination of the gospel. This hope was not diminished on entering the country, although I saw difficulties in my way which my previous inquiries had not led me fully to anticipate. Encouragements presented themselves in various quarters, and my hopes any of us, notwithstanding we were daily Interview with the Great Mohammedan really brightened, under the influence of which I sent home at various times cheering reports. But for the last four or five months clouds have been gathering over my hopes, and especially since I left Tabreez on the 6th of June, have my inquiries added continual gloom to my prospects, and sorrow to my soul, a sorrow from which I find no appeal but in bowing submissively to the sovereign will of God. At Teheran the prospect for missionary labor was but faint starlight, here, at Isfahan, it is clouded midnight. The British ambassador and other English gentlemen had informed me that this was probably the most bigoted city in the kingdom, and so far as my researches have extended this statement is fully confirmed by my own observations. You are aware that I have made the journey from Tabreez to this place in company with two German missionaries, who are also exploring Persia in behalf of the Basle Missionary Society. They brought with them a considerable supply of books in the Persian language, consisting of Testaments, copies of the Psalms, of the Proverbs of It is now in place to speak of the great Solomon, and of the prophecy of Isaiah. mussulman saint of Persia, Hajee Seyed Some of them were distributed in a vil- || Mohammed Bakher, who is esteemed so lage near Isfahan to eager applicants for much divine, that the people often colthem, mollahs and people. This was lect the dust where he treads, and mingsoon reported in the city, causing no ling it with water, administer it to the small stir as it was also proclaimed that sick, as a prescription possessing miracuthese Frankees had not only brought a lous powers. This man is not only a multitude of books subversive of the reputed saint, but is also rich in this mussulman faith, but had also come with world's goods, which enables him to aid the intention of attacking the Moham- his religious influence with the hand of medan religion. This false report threw charity. While a company collected at all Isfahan into an uproar and some fa- his house were deliberating what should natical volunteers went to a famous mus- be done with such dangerous and infidel sulman saint here, and declared their in- men as we were, intelligence was comtention of relieving their religion from municated to them that we ourselves danger and the public mind from alarm, wished to wait on this semi-prophet. by killing these dangerous and infidel Accordingly the next day a messenger Frankees. What the holy man replied was sent to conduct us to the presence of we have not been informed. The gov-this man, whose house is a sanctuary ernor hearing of the design against our from the laws of the kingdom. We waitlives, provided for us a guard of thirty ed some time before he appeared, in his men, who were stationed around our unadorned audience room, during which house, and in all the streets leading to it. time about fifteen mollahs took their We felt no alarm, in the first place, be-seats before us, and a crowd, numbering cause we did not believe the rage of the about two hundred men, collected to people could reach us; but chiefly be- witness the scene. At length the great cause, with a conscience void of offence, man came, saluting us in a style of proud we trusted in God for protection. It is vivacity, seeming already to exult in the proper here to remark that not a book victory he had resolved to gain over us. had been given or sold to any Mussul-Every thing wore the aspect of careful man of the city, excepting some speci-arrangement and deliberate purpose to mens presented to the governor, except one copy of the Proverbs, although there had been scores of importunate applicants; nor had a word of controversy on the subject of religion been spoken by VOL. XXXIII. bring us to the test of fierce discussion on the subject of religion, and the great man renewed his attacks, and persevered in his efforts to effect this object, with a pertinacity far exceeding the bounds of 9 |