country churches. So it must be in England, if ever Gregorian melodies are to be popular; I only trust that now, put forward for the first time among us, they will not be killed by the mistaken kindness of their harmonisers. Speaking, however, of music, I must add that, at Irun, at the conclusion of the mass, the organ played a march of Donizetti's.

It was impossible to be in the province of Guipuscoa, without wishing to see the cradle of the Jesuits, and the birthplace of their founder. At six on the following morning we were on our way thither. Two horses sufficed to take us over the level ground, but the ascent of the pass requires oxen additionally. The scenery is curiously like that of the mountain passes of Merionethshire. A good deal of snow had fallen during the night in the mountains, but the valleys were bright with cowslips and primroses, and even in the higher part of the pass the willows were beginning to put out their leaves. Deep in one of the hollows to the right is the little church of ALBISTER,-high, square, and box-like, as the others, with north-western tower, and western loggia, a lean-to with wooden supports. The bell rang for the Elevation as we stood on the peak above, and was echoed and re-echoed by the steep sides of the narrow valley. Still higher, and we came to the bleak, wintry church of GoZAL. Of Flamboyant date, it has trigonal apse, chancel and nave of one bay each, distinguishable only by their vaulting wall-piers, very rude, and like those in Denmark, and a western loggia. Reaching the summit of the pass, and beginning the descent, the little brown town of AZPEITIA stands at the rise of the opposite hill, and stretching away to the left is the vale of Loyola. The castle stands half a mile from the town,—already from the heights above seen to be an elaborate piece of Renaissance restoration. Leaving our vehicle in the town, we walked to the College. In that heart of a wild mountain country, it seemed a wonderful instance of God's Providence, that from an obscure valley in an obscure province, and from the most corrupt and worldly of European castes, he was chosen who was to roll back the torrent of the Reformation, and make the name of that glen a world-famous word. At the same time, speaking as an Ecclesiologist, I must say that the single thing worth seeing at Loyola is the original door of the family house, with its star-like scutcheons, and enormous bar and socket. As you approach, the domed church protrudes in a semicircle from the general façade of the buildings. The arrangements for summoning the fathers are excellent: a different "repique" on the bells is given by the porter, according as a French, German, or other priest is wanted. They show the place at the bottom of the grand staircase, then a stable, where, according to tradition, S. Ignatius was born; the dwelling apartments of the family have been preserved above, much in their original state, though now used as chapels, a good example of the heavy Spanish gilding of the fifteenth century. They show the room where S. Ignatius lay when recovering from the wound he had received at Pamplona; the hanging of his bed, now used as the canopy of an altar; the chapel at which S. Francis Borgia said his first mass, and other things of a similar kind. The Jesuits have been permitted to return to this house by the Concordat,

though not yet put into legal possession of it,—the primary, or at least alleged, design being the missions to the Philippines and the Antilles. There are at present five fathers, seven lay coadjutors, and eleven or twelve novices. One wing of the building was never finished ; its foundations give some idea of the enormous size and stately proportions of the whole. The house was nearly sold by Government to a Jew, who proposed to turn it into a manufactory, but the authorities of Guipuscoa remonstrated against such an abuse of a "national monument," and they were heard.

We returned to Azpeitia. The church here, of Flamboyant date, consists of a short apsidal chancel, a nave of five bays, aisles, and side chapels. We have the great retablo, as usual; the ambones, against the first pier on each side; and a tower set on obliquely, and facing the south-west, and finished with a poor crocketed spire. A north chapel in the nave has an admirable iron parclose, a fine Flamboyant retablo, and an Episcopal effigy kneeling towards it,-the date, 1516, if I read it right. Some of the other chapels present good late work, especially the first on the south side. The south door is most excellent, First-Pointed, recessed of six, with tooth moulding.

And now, before I introduce you to the first Spanish Cathedral, Las Palmas excepted, which has appeared in the Ecclesiologist, it may not be uninteresting to your readers if I write down a brief resumé of the present arrangement of sees in the Spanish Church. I should not well know where to look for such a list in England, and others may be in the same condition. I take it from the Guia del Estado Ecclesiastico, the Clergy List of this country. Thus it is :

1. Patriarch of the Indies.

2. Toledo, Archbishop and Primate, with these Suffragans: Cordova, Cuenca, Seguenza, Jaen, Carthagena, Osma, Valladolid,1 Segovia.

3. Seville, Archbishop. Suffragans: Malaga, Cadiz, Ceuta, Canary, Teneriffe.

4. Compostella, Archbishop. Suffragans: Salamanca, Tuy, Avila, Coria, Plasencia, Astorga, Zamora, Orense, Mondoñedo, Badajoz, Lugo, Ciudad Rodrigo.

5. Granada, Archbishop. Suffragans: Guadix, Almeiria.

6. Burgos, Archbishop. Suffragans: Pamplona, Calahorra, Palencia, Santander, Tudela.

7. Tarragona, Archbishop. Suffragans: Barcelona, Gerona, Lerida, Tortosa, Vich, Urgel, Solsona, Ibiza.

8. Zaragoza, Archbishop. Suffragans: Huesca, Barbastro, Jaca, Tarazona, Albarraeiro, Teruel.

9. Valencia, Archbishop. Suffragans: Segorva, Orihuea, Majorca, Minorca.

Oviedo, } Autocephalous Bishoprics.

10. Santiago de Cuba, Archbishop. Suffragans: Havanna, Puerto Rico.

11. Manilla, Archbishop. Suffragans: Nueva Segovia, Nueva Caceres, Cebu.

This by the new concordato is about to be raised to an Archbishopric.

Thus there are fifty-five actually existing Spanish Cathedrals, of which three only, Seville, Burgos, and Cordova, can be said to be tolerably known by us.

It is a weary, although a fine journey from Tolosa to Vittoria. The road, very well engineered, crosses the Biscayan offshoots of the Pyrenees; and on waking up in the grey of the morning, a morning gloomy and troubled with a mountain mist, it seemed like a wild dream to see the five or six yoke of oxen struggling onwards and upwards, and appearing to stretch away till lost in the mist. The sun rose over Vittoria, and S. MICHAEL's was our first church that day. It has chancel and nave, with aisles to each, but without constructional division, and a loggia, as usual. The chief of the work is Middle-Pointed; there is a western Flamboyant gallery, and a singularly good high tomb, recessed, of a merchant. Another church, now desecrated as a military magazine, has one of the good western First-Pointed doors which would seem to abound in these parts.

MIRANDA, on the Ebro, is the last church which I saw in the Basque Provinces. It is close to the Ebro, so long the boundary of Christian and Mahometan domination. And a very curious church it is. It has an apsidal chancel, transepts, nave, and north and south chapels, and western tower. The apse is of the finest Romanesque; the five windows, of three orders, with very narrow openings, and slender circular shafts, with harp capitals. The chancel is much lower than the nave, the east end of the latter square and high; the transepts are apparently of Middle-Pointed, and the crossing piers have in earlier times been groined greatly below their present height. The FirstPointed nave has two bays; the clerestory has two well-moulded circular lights. In the eastern bay of the vaulting, the Evangelistic symbols are particularly noticeable. The tower at the west end is low, and square, and massy, with two shapeless belfry-lights. There is here a southern loggia, and its internal door is a magnificent example of Romanesque. It has four orders, and the capitals are singularly fine. The most curious represents a Saracen fortification, with three towers, -the first time, I think, that I was ever brought into Ecclesiological contact with the False Prophet.

In my next letter I hope to describe Burgos, Palencia, and Valladolid. In the meantime you will make due allowances for the manner in which the present has been written, for the bits and scraps of time so employed in the last moments of an Ecclesiological day, or during the passport visitations of companions, or the wearisome delays of diligences. Such as it is, it may possibly possess some little interest for such of your readers as are students of foreign Ecclesiology.

I remain, &c.,

H.

MR. WINSTON'S NEW WINDOW AT THE TEMPLE CHURCH.

MR. WINSTON is an accomplished person who has very laudably bestowed an immense deal of time and study on painted glass. His technical knowledge we always viewed as superior to his theoretical skill. In criticising the texture of glass, in settling its date and country, Mr. Winston has acquired great familiarity. In settling the character of the drawing to be employed in glass paintings he has been happily inconsistent. He is often inconsistent, as when in the very same page of his Hints on Glass Painting he proscribed the use of glass painting when the walls were frescoed (with subjects,) but admitted it when they were more richly decorated with paint and gilding (in patterns.) So in the same work he assures the wondering world that "the Raising of Lazarus by Sebastian del Piombo, and Raphael's Cartoons would form, with a little modification, good designs for glass paintings." However, we are glad to find Mr. Winston printing one thing and painting another. He has just put up a window in the round nave of the Temple Church which is as unlike Raphael's cartoons, as Mr. Winston is unlike his old friend the monk Theophilus. The window is a highly creditable one in results. It is conventionalized in drawing, and as unlike an oil painting as could be conceived. It consists of five little medallions, very much indeed too small, of the early events of our LORD's life. The draperies are all white, and the effect is piebald and spotty. The flesh has no tints, and the diaper is of an early type. The glass as to its material is bright and clear, and contrasts most favourably with the dirty and antiquated windows which Mr. Willement has placed in the rest of the church. As to the drawing it is somewhat outré and extravagant. An indescribable something between Flaxman and Fuseli. The shepherds at the Adoration are tossing their arms symmetrically much as the witches do in the outlines of Macbeth. The draperies are of a most statuesque ponderosity, heavy and thick with convolutions, the artistic result in this particular is much as what might be expected of the illuminator of S. Ethelwold's Benedictional copying the frieze of the Parthenon. However, the result is very far from unpleasing, and Mr. Winston has produced a window as like his favourite Cinque-cento as he to Hecuba.

RESTORATION OF S. BOTOLPH'S, BOSTON.

We have paid a visit to this magnificent parish church since its late re-opening, after restoration by Mr. G. G. Place, of Nottingham, and have been greatly pleased with the manner in which the works have been carried out. The church is one of great simplicity of plan, though of huge dimensions. There is a long and broad chancel, and a nave and aisles, nearly a hundred feet wide and proportionately long, with a fine open lantern in the western tower. Now that all impediments are

removed, and the nave and aisles fitted with uniform open seats, the effect of the internal area is most imposing. So vast is the area, that although about 2000 seats are provided, there is a very large space at the west end of the church left perfectly free. Mr. Place was not obliged to do much to the church constructionally, the fabric not having been seriously interfered with, and large sums having been expended a few years since on the repairs of the roof. The whole internal walls and arcades have been cleaned and pointed carefully. The roofs remain as they were done some century since; sham vaulting of wood of bad design and construction, not suitable to the architecture of the building, and in bad repair. We must hope that one day the same architect may be able to complete his work by providing entirely new roofs. Mr. Place has added a new east window, of seven lights, with tracery very happily designed (we thought) to suit the character of the existing windows; and has enlarged a nondescript building which stood between the chancel and the north aisle, into an organ chamber. But his greatest architectural work is the vaulting in stone the lantern of the great west tower. This was blocked up by floors before the late restoration: now it is thrown open it is a feature of unusual magnificence, and its vault, 168 feet from the ground, is higher than that of the central lantern of Westminster Abbey, the highest in England. Mr. Place found the springings of the vaulting in existence: we doubt if it had ever been completed. It was a bold experiment, creditable both to the architect and the people of Boston, to attempt so great a work. We are very glad that it has been so successful; and we did not notice any signs of settlement in the tower, such as might have been feared after the addition of so great a superincumbent weight. The lantern, with its new vault, cries out for some decorative coloration. A new font also has been designed by Mr. Place, of great size, octagonal, and raised on a lofty base of steps, and hereafter to receive further ornament in the shape of statues. We found it too high for

convenient use.

It is almost fortunate that the chancel had been disused for many years, being blocked off by a gallery from the nave for the ancient stalls have thus been preserved uninjured. They are very good indeed of their kind. Mr. Place has added canopies, of an elaborate design, to nine or ten of the stalls on the north side of the chancel, which are appropriated to the Corporation. The canopies also mask the organist's seat: a sham organ front conceals the window sacrificed to the new organ chambers. The returned stalls, three on each side, are ranged on a lower level by Mr. Place, so as to allow a less interrupted view into the chancel. They are backed with a solid screen, like the lower part of a roodscreen, with gates of open panelling, enriched with gilding. This lowering of the returned stalls is not very satis factory. The flooring retains much of its original flagging, with a most judicious mixture of coloured tiles in bands and patterns. The sanctuary rises finely in four stages of two steps each. A wrought iron sanctuary rail of the last century is retained, being coloured blue and gilt. The footpace, which is floored with encaustic tiles, is rather too large. The altar is of good dimensions, except as to height, which