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with excellent bridges, without a single ferry. The same
SCOTTISH TOURISTS. Report alleges, that the Glasgow and Carlisle Road was To trace the progress of discovery in Scotland is no matter 80 nearly impassable in 1815, as to oblige the Post-Office of antiquarian research. In 1688, Sacheverel, Governor to threaten to withdraw the mail. In the single county of of the Isle of Man, was sent to the Hebrides, narrowly Aberdeen, it is calculated by the author already alluded escaping shipwreck on his voyage, for the purpose, not of to, that half a million sterling had been expended on exploring the wonders with which terror and superstition roads, since 1797 to the period at which he wrote.
had invested these islands, but of superintending the The fisheries have proportionably thriven, and have been operations of the divers employed to fish for the treasures established where they were before unknown on the which, it was thought, were contained in a sunken vessel northern coasts of Scotland. Enterprising individuals erroneously supposed to have belonged to the Spanish have pursued the early rich herrings of the deep along the Armada. "He possessed taste, and described with graphic coasts of Sutherlandshire, and obtained at Hamburgh, the skill the scenery in the neighbourhood of the harbour premium on the first caught and prepared awarded by that where his errand conducted him; and, unfortunately, little city. Whilst on the western coast of Caithness, the town else. There is an old description of the Hebrides by of Pulteney has been added to that of Wick, founded, as Munro, Dean of the Isles, known to us chiefly by the it was said of Amsterdam by a Dutch historian, on the quotations of Sir Walter Scott. The social condition of bones of herrings: and many thousands of men and those Islands, at the commencement of the last century, women are annually employed, where a few straggling and St. Kilda, Martin depicted in 1716. Whilst that of fishermen previously earned a precarious subsistence. the Northern Highlands in the interval between the two
The cultivation of kelp, enriched, as its failure has rebellions, was much more minutely detailed by an English injured or ruined, many of the maritime proprietors. It Officer, stationed at the garrison of Fort St. George, in a may be questioned whether the discouragement to agri- work entitled, Letters from a Gentleman in the North of culture and the fisheries occasioned by the ample but Scotland to his Friend in London, afterwards edited by uncertain profits arising from the manufacture of this weed, Jamieson: the grand magazine from which Sir Walter may not have counterbalanced the partial wealth which it Scott, General Stuart of Garth, and other writers, have yielded. The progress of manufactures in the large western derived their knowledge of the habits and manners of the towns has much contributed to national prosperity: inhabitants of these regions, at the period in question.
Education, formerly confined chiefly to the Lowlands The natural phenomena of the country did not attract and central Highlands, has been extended by the Gaelic his attention, unless we except an unsuccessful attempt School Society, and the schools formed by the General made by himself and some of his brother officers, to Assembly of the Church of Scotland, to the Hebrides, ascend Ben Nevis; from which they retreated in discomOrkney, and Shetland. Whilst the parliamentary grant fiture and consternation. Of the scenery of Scotland, at for the erection of churches in the Highlands and Íslands least of that of its coasts and islands, little or nothing was of Scotland, has poured back on many a benighted district known till the accidental discovery of Staffa, by Sir that light which, according to history, originally emanated Joseph Banks, in the course of his circumnavigation of from the sanctuaries of Iona and Oransay.
the globe, to which publicity was given by Pennant; in his To the full developement of the resources of Scotland, account of the memorable tours which he performed in the discovery of steam has supplied a main stimulant. TO 1769 and 1772, visiting a large portion of Scotland and its gigantic power, the physical obstacles to communication many of the Western Isles. Johnson, in the following and intercourse have in a great measure yielded : and it is year traced and described the remnants of the old patrinot possible to foresee the economical and social changes archal system, the influence of which yet survived the which may yet result from its introduction in that country. forfeited authority of the chiefs: and his genius invested Without anticipating the realization of the picturesque with a halo of glory the mists which had gathered around or, poetical fictions of Miss Martineau or Mr. Macaulay; the tombs and temples of Iona. without unroosting the gulls of Garveloch, and peopling Scotland now became an object of interest; and no its lonely rocks with amorous swains, with geese, and even portion of the globe, perhaps, has more employed the pen of with swine, or imagining the rise of a new Liverpool in tourists. Dr. Clarke visited St. Kilda; and it is gratifying the Hebrides, we may hazard the assertion that the im to recollect, that his adventurous wing first tried its strength provement of Scotland may yet be long in progress. To among our own islands. The exclusion of our traveilers observe its stages, is both interesting and instructive, from a large part of the continent during the late war
directed their steps more particularly to Scotland; and the Nor did Sir Walter Scott contribute little to our knowfishermen of St. Kilda beheld a lady of rank and accom- ledge of Scotland as a traveller. It is in this character plishments among the few pilgrims who worshipped the that we must at present recognise him. His visit to the God of Nature, at the shrine of their patron saint. The Hebrides, to Orkney, and to Shetland, in the exercise of Quarterly Review tells us, in 1809, in its very first num- his function as a Commissioner of Northern Ligbts, which ber, that it would, perhaps, be somewhat difficult to bring gave birth to the Lord of the Isles and the Pirate, introus news from Scotland. One of the first shafts of that duced to popular notice the sublime scenery and splendid redoubtable critic, was levelled at Scottish tourists : and caves of Sky, the rocks of Eribol, Orkney, and Shetand. they are warned against giving to the world, a Hampstead But the circle within which his spells chietly operated, and Summer, Memoranda of Margate, or the Traveller at within which the curiosity of our tourists chiefly sought its Brighton !
gratification, excluded, except in the instances alluded to, But the spell which had ever bound us from our early the outer and less-known regions of the country. It was youth to the classic regions of Greece and Rome,
not till the commencement of the present century, that the Where each old poetic mountain,
porphyritic precipices of the Scuir of Eig were made Inspiration breathes around;
known by Playfair: many years subsequently elapsed, might still have been wanting to Scotland, but for the which Johnson and his more inquisitive companion had
before the stately portals of the Brischemish Hill under waving of that magic wand, which at the very moment at unconsciously slept; the Point of Duin, and the magnificent which our countrymen shaped their reluctant course to the basaltic walls of the Shiant Isles, were described or deregions of the mist, suddenly invested its mountains and lineated by Maculloch or Daniel. The very names of glens, and rivers and islands, with the blended charms these and many other places, doubtless grate harsh discord which graphic description, poetical inspiration, splendid in the ears, or awaken the dreams of fancy in the minds of fiction, and historical associations can impart to the grand many of our readers; and the popular knowledge of and various productions of Nature. The poetry of Scotland had powerfully addressed itself Scotland is as imperfect, as it is recent. No single author
can supply a comprehensive view of these objects on which to the imagination and the feelings of every soul capable
we seek to be informed. of appreciating the sublime, the beautiful, and the pathetic: but it had not yet identified itself with the particular the Caledonian Canal; and these limits are rarely passed by
The common Tourists' Guides reach not beyond Sky, or scenes with which its subjects were associated : it needed the multitude of published tours. Mr. Maculloch's account yet a local habitation. The caves of Staffa became linked of the Hebrides, the result of several expeditions to these by name with the majestic but vague fictions of Ossian; Islands, is the best which has appeared: but the information but the dusky heights of Morvern, the kirk of Alloway, is partial, and unfortunately, so overloaded with adventitious or the braes of Yarrow, attracted as little attention as Loch matter, that few but the learned will search it out; and Katrine, notwithstanding the accurate descriptions of the often, when our curiosity is excited by the announcement scenery of that lake by the industrious minister of Aber- of his arrival on some island which had been reached not foyle. "It was necessary, that the outlines of the features without difficulty and peril, our eyes, straining to the full of Nature should be accurately delineated, as well as the extent of vision, are suddenly blinded by the dust of a glow of colouring supplied, by the pencil of poetry, ere hundred folios. Scotland could stand forth, as she did at the bidding of her
Daniel's views of the British Coasts, a work, the execupatriot bard,
tion of which is no less. spirited than the design, is the In living portraiture displayed.
only picturesque tour which supplies a general knowledge Then flocked our travellers to the scenes of his fictions, of the grand and varied scenery of the Coasts and Islands with the ardour and devotion of pilgrims resorting to some of Scotland. Information respecting parts of the country, hallowed shrine. The year after the publication of The whether the Hebrides, or the Orkney or Shetland Isles, Lady of the Lake, sixty carriages found their way to the or particular counties, may be gathered from Macdonald, Trosachs, where no vehicle of this description had been Barry, Edmonstone, Mackenzie, and innumerable other previously seen. A coach ran to Roslin, and an inn was writers; and on various subjects connected with the roads, established there, when the exquisitely pathetic dirge of bridges, agriculture, and fisheries of the country, the ParRosabelle, in the Lay of the Last Minstrel, had directed the liamentary Reports may be consulted. stream of curiosity more particularly to that romantic spot. A gazetteer on a small scale, condensing in alphabetical
arrangement, the substance of much information, collected | crevice, form a scene singularly picturesque, the effect of from such sources, has been lately published by Chambers; which is heightened by the method in which the fishermen and a statistical work, founded on the plan of that already hang their nets. A pole traverses the foremast, to each alluded to, is in progress, and if ably conducted, will prove extremity of which is fastened another, extending to the the most invaluable repository of our stock of knowledge. length of several feet beyond the stem of the boat, supBut very few readers can find leisure or opportunity for ported by upright props. On these, as well as on the rocks such reading; and still fewer, obtain it at the cost of time, and islets, the nets are suspended in elegant festoons, fatigue, and occasional peril, to which Scotch touring is covering the whole with sable drapery. liable.
The transit to the Eastern Loch Tarbert, in which anoThe author of the following Sketches, therefore, commits ther steam-vessel awaited us, is about a mile distant. The the following extracts from his Journal of his Tours in scenery of that deep inlet is beautiful. Its soft outlines Scotland and the Isle of Man, in the years 1827 and 1829, and wooded shores, compared with the rugged features of to the pages of the Saturday Magazine, in the belief that the Eastern Loch, exhibit the contrast of a painting by the information which he collected, and for the accuracy of Claude to one by Salvator Rosa. The temporary closing which he holds himself responsible, except where he quotes of the Crinan Canal occasioned the resumption of this old from other tourists, may not be unacceptable to its readers. mode of communication with the Hebrides. The project The want of romantic and more stirring interest, which for insulating a large part of Argyleshire, and at once conadventures in remote regions usually excite, may be com- veying the navigation of the Clyde in a direct line to the pensated for, by the gratification which the consciousness Hebrides, which has been accomplished by the completion of possession affords to us whilst contemplating the trea of the Crinan Canal, was deemed hazardous, and even sures, or exploring the resources of our own country. visionary. As a pecuniary speculation, it may have little
One serious impediment to travelling in Scotland has success; but its effects as a channel of intercourse, combeen removed by the publication of the large and accurate bined with those of steam, have been as beneficial as they map of Arrowsmith, which unfortunately, however, does have been remarkable. The island lairds, who spent somenot include the Isles of Orkney and Shetland, and the times weeks in navigating to and from their remote habitageneral improvement of maps of more portable dimensions. tions, or in attempting to cross the numerous ferries which Our ancestors knew as little of the geography of Scotland obstructed their land journeys, now enjoy speedy interas they did of its scenery: Dr. Johnson, whilst severely course with Glasgow, Edinburgh, and the South. Whilst censuring Boëthius, a Scotch writer of the sixteenth vessels employed in trade and the fisheries avoid the circentury, for his error in extending Loch Ness to six times cuitous and perilous circumnavigation of the Mull of Canits real breadth, describes Mull as an island not broken by tyre. It was the ancient practice to drag vessels of small waters, nor shot into promontories, but as a solid, compact size across the isthmus, Tarbert signifying a land-passage mass, of breadth nearly equal to its length. Whereas the for boats; which has been described by Walter Scott as rea! shape of this large island resembles that of a wasp, having been adopted by Robert Bruce himself. so desply indented is it by arms of the sea, which nearly
It was a wondrous sight to see meet in its centre. He justly adds, that of the dimensions
Topmast and pennon glitter free, of the larger islands there was then no knowledge approach
High raised above the green-wood tree, ing to exactness.
As on dry land the galley moves,
By cliffs, and copse, and alder-groves. An error of geography is speedily discovered by a
Lord of the Isles. pedestrian, and often by painful experience: the transpobition of a place to the distance of six miles, perhaps, And since the recent closing of the Crinan Canal' it has occasioning an extra day or night walk over high moun
been resumed by the fishermen of Barra, and other islands, tains and deep morasses. And by a pedestrian alone can
who rather than trust their commissions to strangers, perScotland be explored. The traveller's vocation in that severe in a custom now gradually growing into disuse, of country is amphibious: he must be unencumbered by carrying the fish which they catch to the Clyde markets, carriage, horse, or vessel of his own; but depend on the
and purchasing the little luxuries and articles of dress opportunities of proceeding which he may chance to meet
which their slender profits command. A rail-road crossing with, doubtless much facilitated by the hospitality and
the isthmus, which has been projected, would greatly facifriendliness of the people, and command leisure and litate the transit of goods. patience sufficient to submit to the fatigue and privations
The violence of the conflicting currents on the western to which he is occasionally exposed by the vexatious coast of Argyleshire, no less than the defective outfit of the despotism of the elements. So free in his power of steam-vessels on their first establishment, rendered this locomotion, and so fortified in spirit, he may enjoy a grati- mode of navigation at first uncertain. fication to which the tourist who rolls along the beaten
At midnight the paddle of our vessel was broken by the track of continental travellers, transferred by the tyranny
sea, and at nine next morning we found ourselves once of his courier from the safe custody of one set of waiters
more at Tarbert. But a day may be very agreeably passed and cicerones to another, is utterly unacquainted. “ The at this interesting little port, which contains a respectable world before him, and Providence for his guide," the inn, and a few comfortable lodging-houses for the use of pedestrian is at liberty to shape his course wherever curiosity the salt-water people, as persons who visit the coast for seamay invite, or the spirit of enterprise may direct.
bathing are usually called in these parts. A long row of
low huts on the shore attracted our notice: the interior of CLYDE, TARBERT, HERRING FISHERY, INVE
one was remarkably neat and clean, belying the squalidRARY, LOCH AWE, DUNOLLY, SOUND ness of its exterior. It proved to be one of the Society's OF MULL, TOBERMORY.
schools; or schools maintained by the joint contributions of The author of the following sketches, with such intentions, the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge estaquitted Glasgow in a steam-vessel, in company with some blished at Edinburgh, which pays the salary of the schoolfriends, on the 19th July, 1827. The channel of the Clyde, master, amounting to £25; of the heritor or landed profor several miles below Glasgow, is narrow, and of little prietor, on whose estate the school is formed, who furnishes depth; but the want of water has been gradually remedied the house and garden; and of the scholars themselves, by the indefatigable efforts of the dredging-machine, which, who pay certain fees. In this little seminary two boys by deepening the channel, facilitates the approach of larger formed a Latin class, construing Cæsar and Sallust with vessels to Glasgow, which formerly received or discharged facility: and two, one of whom was the son of an excisetheir cargoes at Greenock or Port Glasgow. Hence this man, and the other of a farmer, both destined for the instrument is significantly designated the “ Terror of church, were studying Greek. Greenock,” or “Greenock's Lament." The vessels are To this parochial tuition, often extremely scanty, the towed up the river by steam, which originally rendered the Scottish youths, not within the reach of grammar-schools, operation of the dredging-machine important. The narrow are frequently indebted for the whole stock of classical branch of the outlet of the Clyde, called the Kyle of Bute, knowledge which they carry to the Universities. offers no scenery worthy of notice; but opens nobly on the Having, in frequent subsequent visits to Tarbert, directed majestic heights of Arran. Crossing the entrance of Loch my attention to the herring-fishery, I shall introduce here Fine, we entered the romantic little harbour of East Loch a brief account of the habits of the people employed in it. Tarbert, the head-quarters of the celebrated herring-fishery. The fishermen of Tarbert and the neighbourhood do not The rude out-work of its rocks apparently barring access ; confine their operations to Loch Fine, but extend them the overhanging keep of its ruined castle; the village, and along the western coast, even as far as Lewis. They do he innumerablo fishing-boats choking up every nook and not carry their fish to market, but adopt the more profitable
and expeditious method of selling them to vessels, in which muskets and fowling-pieces from different parts of the narthey are cured and conveyed to various parts. They are bour greeted the ear. Soon, a procession, preceded by a also barrelled beth at Tarbert and Inverary. The outfit of bagpipe, descended the hill, and some of their train rea boat is expensive ; the cost of it, including rigging, turned from their pieces the saiute of their fellow-townsvaries from 301. to 50l., and upwards, and may be esti men. A young fisherman was the bridegroom, and the mated, on the average, at 401.: and the price of a set of whole party moved to the church, where the minister denets is 30l., or 51. to a piece or barrel, of which six form a livered a prayer and exhortation in Gaelic. The friend of net. The usual length of the boat is twenty feet; it is the bridegroom took off his glove, and a young girl perbuilt at Tarbert, Greenock, or Rothsay. It is furnished forined the same office for the bride, and the ceremony conwith three masts, a mainsail, a foresail, and a jib: and cluded with their clasping their hands together. There was part of the bow of the boat is covered by boarding or an an immediate adjournment to the public-house, which beawning, in which bedding is placed. Where the awning came the scene of much festivity. occurs, it is occasionally removed, and instead of the bed In the evening, we ascended Loch Fine to Inverary ; ding a pan of coals is placed, on which the fisherman cooks the surface of its waters gradually becoming sprinkled over his provisions when in harbour, or at sea, when the weather with the many twinkling boats of the herring-fishers, and permits. Each boat is usually furuished with three men, spent the next morning in viewing the castle, and climbing one of whom is the master, who defrays the whole cost, the hill of Duniquaigh. Inverary, the county-town of Argyleand receives a double share of the profits of the fishery. shire, has a court-house and a gaol. The broad basin of He is also exempted by law from impressment. The pro- Loch Fine ; the surrounding plain, adorned by the Duke's prietors of boats subscribe so much by the week to a fund, castle and park, and the stately avenues of trees stretching à species of insurance, out of which they are indemnified several miles along the coast to southward, and the town, for the loss of their nets. The measure used is called a the sloping uplands extending from the bank of a river to maize, containing 500 herrings: the greatest number I a double semicircular ridge, terminating on the north side have heard being taken at one time was forty-one maize, of the park in Duniquaigh, a pine-clad hill of peculiarly the maize then selling at 10$.
Alpine character, form a scene rarely surpassed, especially The nets are cast at sựn-set, and always on the right when illuminated by a morning sun. Its general effect is side of the boat, in conformity to the supposed injunction perhaps somewhat theatrical ; and the castle, a modern of our Saviour to St. Peter. The time of sailing is also square edifice, with round towers at its angles, the central governed by many superstitious notions, but a cloudy and prominent object, looks diminutive in proportion to the evening is the best omen. Immediately afterwards, if the natural features of the landscape. But gigantic scenery weather permit, the fishermen liglit their fire and cook reduces the utmost efforts of puny man to comparative intheir supper, consisting of fish, potatoes, oat-cake, molasses, significance. It was begun by Archibald, duke of Argyle, or porridge. But on stormy nights they fast, being unable in 1745, and consequently wants that antiquity which might to cook their provisions, relieving their fatigue by whisky; | be sought in the residence of an illustrious family, who first and on their return in the morning, invariably receive two settled here in the 14th century, and whose former abode, a drams each from the purchaser of their fishi. Cold and castle on the shore, was destroyed only sixty years ago. hungry, they are often affected by the spirits, and sustain It is strange that hitherto the land-communication, eren the habitual excitement by repairing to the public-house; in one of the most opulent counties of Scotland, and pos thus acquiring habits of intoxication. There are no less sessing several small towns, should be so imperfect. The than twenty public-houses in Tarbert, which must be only regular mode of conveyance from Glasgow to Oban, partly attributed to its being a great thoroughfare. The the port of embarkation for the Western Isles, or, as it superintendent of the distillery of West Tarbert informed has been called, the Charing Cross of the Hebrides, was at me that the fishermen carried out whisky to sea, observing this time (1827,) a stage-coach, lately established, drawn by emphatically, “ Sir, the Tarbert man must have his dram, two miserable cattle. The inn afforded a post-chaise; but let the world sink or swim."
no horses; and two common carts were the only resource. On the whole, however, though, occasionally, drunken A fine prospect, which is called Burke's view, as having ness may be seen, accompanied with riotous conduct, which been praised by the author of the Essay on the Sublime and must be laid partly to the charge of strangers, the clergy Beautiful, opens on the view when Loch Awe first appears, have succeeded in counteracting, in a great measure, the divided into two branches by the lofty pile of Ben Cruachan. natural tendency of the habits of the fishermen; and the At the pleasant little inn of Dalmally, we passed Sunday, excellent and ancient practice of prayer is not uncommon. and observed the ancient practice of the Scoteh kirk, of After supper, the fishermen not unfrequently kneel down catechizing the children in the church in the afternoon. to prayer, and 'sing a hymn, and when at home adopt the The boys exhibited more of the Highland garb than can same rule. Martin mentions that this was the invariable be seen in the remoter parts of Scotland, where it is nearly practice of the rude fishermen of St. Kilda. The fishermen disused. As they assembled in the church-yard, wearing of Inverary said that reading was general among them, the tartan petticoat, witlíout shoes or stockings, they formed and that most of them possessed Bibles. Of their respect a very picturesque group. for the Sabbath-day a proof occurred some time ago : they The castle of Kilchurn, on the shore of Loch Awe, is one stedfastly refused to carry the baggage of a laird, residing of the finest of these remains of antiquity in Scotland; in a neighbouring island, across the isthmus on that day. which are in general as far inferior in dimensions and picThe natives of Tarbert always return to their cottages; the turesque appearance to those of England Wales, as they strangers live in their boats, cook their provisions, and are often superior in the grandeur of their position. It was sometimes celebrate their domestic worship on board. The built in 1440, by Sir Colin Campbell, Knight of Rhodes, harbours and coves are so numerous, that boats are rarely ancestor of the Breadalbane family. The road winds along lost. I was informed that any disputes arising among the the side of Ben Cruachan, which derives a crater-like apfishermen were adjusted by arbitration, three seniors of the pearance from the semicircular shape of its huge bare butport performing this duty; an excellent practice, similar tresses, through the pass of Awe, the celebrity of which to that which prevails in some instances among the miners arises less from its scenery than from the defeat which Lord of Cornwall, who, though enjoying the jurisdiction of their John of Lorn sustained here from the skill and courage of own independent courts, the Stannary, still are so satisfied Bruce, to which the downfall of the conquered family may with the inore amicable mode of adjusting their differences, be traced. that, as a respectable captain of one of the largest As we issued from this ravine upon an extensive and mines stated to me, an appeal to law was scarcely ever dreary waste, our attention was attracted by a solitory known. The period for commencing and terminating the moving black spot on the huge sloping side of Cruachan, fishery was formerly prescribed by Act of Parliament. which, gradually approaching, proved to be a numerous
The huts inhabited by the fishermen at Tarbert and the company of horsemen, following to a neighbouring cemeneighbourhood are usually very poor. The few tenants of tery the remains of the wife of the tacksman, whose sheep West Tarbert depend on the transit of goods for subsistence. clad the vast pastures of the mountain, and whose beautiThe residence of mechanics in villages is always beneficial, fully-situated mansion, embosomed in trees, overlooked as setting the example of building and fitting up houses the foaming Awe. The solemnity of the funeral procesin better style, independently of other advantages. sion is never more impressive, than when contrasted with
On one occasion, I found the harbour of East Tarbert in the beauty or majesty of undying Nature. On the roada state of much excitement, and found that a wedding was side, the workmen of Bunawe have erected on an eminence expected. The people were all standing at their doors an immense stone to the memory of Nelson, which may with smiling countenances, and a perpetual discharge of be hereafter taken for a cairn.
Passing Dunstaffnage, from whence was removed the England, and to assist Edward the Fourth, and James Earl stone on which the ancient Scottish monarchs of Douglas, then in banishment, in subduing the realm of crowned, now preserved in Westminster Abbey, we en Scotland."—Note to the Lord of the Isles. tered Oban. Its bay, the entrance of which is guarded by The title of the Lord of the Isles became extinct in 1536, islands, the neat white houses of the town, rocks, woods, Macdonald, who held it, dying without an heir. the solitary tower of Dunolly, and the distant heights The once-wooded Morvern of Ossian is now stripped of of Mull and Morvern, offer a delightful view; and from its forests, and its bare sides are diversified only by the the Castle of Dunolly, the eye may wander southward insulated mansions of a few lairds, which, as well as the through the picturesque group of the Southern Hebrides, manses of the Highland clergy, often resemble in their over which towers Ben-More in Mull, to the height of 3000 loneliness the “ lodge in the garden of cucumbers," as feet. The house of Dunolly is screened from view by trees : exactly as the fortified seats of their ancestors bring to this is occupied by Macdougal of Lorn, the representative mind the accompanying figurative allusion of a “besieged of an ancient family, who inhabited the adjacent castle, city." Morvern, till within a few years, formed part of the tracing their descent from a son of Somerlid, Lord of the vast property of the Duke of Argyll, which had been augIsles, slain in 1164. The Lord of Lorn, who was defeated mented materially by the grants of estates forfeited by by Bruce in the pass of Awe, married a daughter of John Macdonald and Maclean to his ancestors, and have been in the Red Comyn. The genealogy of the family is given part sold, and in some instances, as in the case of Maclean by Sir Walter Scott, in a note to the Lord of the Isles. of Coll, to the descendants of the original proprietors. Mor
We proceeded to Tobermory by steam. Notwithstanding vern, which, at the period of the survey, was possessed by the occasional interruption, occasioned by damage of ma- the Duke and three other heritors, all non-residents, is chinery, and weather, the steam-vessels usually combine now inhabited by twenty resident proprietors, most of their movements with extraordinary precision : four of whom were originally the Duke's tenants. Such changes them, two from Glasgow, one from Inverness, and another of property are perpetually occurring in Scotland ; and are, from Tobermory, arriving by concert at the same hour. doubtless, advantageous, if not pushed to the extent of
The entrance to the Sound of Mull is commanded on one impairing too much the aristocracy of the country, and of side by Castle Duart, and on the other by that of Artornish. diminishing an order of men, whose wealth, authority, inThe former, nobly situated, was of old the seat of the chief fluence, education, intercourse with the general body of of the Macleans. Rumour ascribes its preservation to the landed proprietors of the kingdom, and opportunities of publication of the Lord of the Isles. The existence of ascertaining and applying the various plans of improvemany of the antiquities of Scotland, nay, of the Scandina- ment communicated to the public, supply them with the vian and other regions of Europe, must be attributed in no means, if properly employed, of imparting economical and small degree to the taste excited and revived by their great moral benefits to a country, on a scale unattainable by men northern champion. When Sacheverel passed this castle, of inferior degree, of more limited knowledge, and consein 1680, his vessel exchanged with it a salute of
guns. quently usually too firmly riveted to the practices of their “ The opposite castle of Artornish was in former days a forefathers. Of the benefits resulting from capital and place of great consequence, being, one of the principal influence, directed to the encouragement of agriculture and strong-holds which the Lords of the Isles, during the period fisheries, and the developement of the various resources of of their stormy independence, possessed upon the main a country, the late Duke of Argyle was a bright example. land of Argyleshire. Here they assembled what popular Tobermory was built in 1788, by the British Fishing tradition calls their parliament, meaning, I suppose, their Company, at the same time with Ullapool and Tanera, as cour plenière, or assembly of feudal and patriarchal vassals the site of a fishing-establishment, and the rendezvous of and dependants. From this castle of Artornish (1461), the herring-vessels. Although the different undertakings John De Yle, designating himself Earl of Ross, Lord of of these spirited capitalists failed, and their structures the Isles, granted, in the style of an independent sovereign, were here, as elsewhere, left to decay, and a manufactory a commission to certain deputies, to enter into a conference afterwards established here, proved equally unsuccessful, with others appointed by King Edward the Fourth of the capacity of its harbour, the convenience of its situation, England, which terminated in a treaty; by which the and the increased traffic of the coasts and islands, render Lord of the Isles agreed to become a vassal to the crown of Tobermory an important and a prosperous village.
P.S. Q. R. END OF THE FOURTH VOLUME.