Dr.

spare walrus meat, and four of their best dogs. After they had left the ship, axes, saws, and knives were missed. They had even broken into the storehouse at Butler Island, and one of the most venerable of the party contrived to cut to pieces the Indiarubber boat, and carry off every particle of the wood.

reclining posture, on a bed of doubled-up | ship in a state of debility and delirium. A buffalo bags. Thus embaled among skins generous diet, however, morphine, and fricand blankets, they were lashed to the sledge tion restored several of the party. One was by frost-bitten fingers, and, repeating a brief afflicted with blindness; two others had part prayer, the party set out on their retreat. of their feet amputated; and two valuable Notwithstanding its weight of 1100lbs., and lives, those of Jefferson Baker and Peter the rough paths it had to traverse, the Schubert, were sacrificed in this disastrous sledge performed its part well, and the men journey; the one from locked-jaw, and the dragged it nobly along, till they were within other from erisypelas round his amputated nine miles of the tent which they had left stump. the day before. At this time they were all On the 7th of April, when they were suddenly seized with an alarming failure of watching the death-bed of Baker, a large their energies. Two of the stoutest begged party of Esquimaux, with fifty-six fine dogs, permission to sleep; another was nearly visited the ship. They carried knives in stiff under a drift; a third stood bolt up- their boots; but having left their lances right, with his eyes closed, and hardly able lashed to the sledges, it was obvious that to articulate; a fourth threw himself on they came with pacific intentions. the snow and refused to rise. None of them Kane treated them with hospitality, and complained of cold. It was in vain that kept them all night on board, eating and Dr. Kane "wrestled, boxed, ran, argued, sleeping, and sleeping and eating, till they jeered, or reprimanded." It became neces- were satisfied. With needles, and beads, sary to halt. The tent was pitched: their and cask staves, Dr. Kane purchased their hands could not strike a fire. Their whisky had frozen beneath all the men's coverings, and they were obliged to dispense with food or water. In this emergency the sick, and as many as it would hold, were crammed into the tent, and Dr. Kane, with William Godfrey, who volunteered to accompany him, set off to the half-way tent to thaw some ice and pemmican before the rest The month of April being about to close, arrived on foot. They kept themselves Dr. Kane made preparations for the " crownawake by imposing on each other a contin- ing expedition of the campaign,"-to follow ued articulation of words; but neither of the icebelt to the great glacier of Humboldt, them was in his right senses, though they to attain the Ultima Thule of the Greenboth remembered seeing a bear treating land shore, and search "round the farthest very unceremoniously their tent, and what circle of the ice for an outlet to the mys it contained. On reaching it, they found terious channels beyond." An advance their buffalo robes and pemmican in the party under M'Gary set out on the 25th snow; crept into their rein-deer sleeping- April, with a few stores; and on the 27th, bags without speaking, and had an intense Dr. Kane and Godfrey followed, and oversleep of three hours. When Dr. Kane took them. With some difficulty they awoke, a mass of his beard was frozen to nearly reached the foot of the great Humthe buffalo skin, and Godfrey was obliged to boldt glacier, but unexpected calamities here cut him out with his jack-knife. The rest of befell them. The winter's scurvy reapthe party having arrived, and received such peared. The fatigue of working through an refreshments as could be given, they again excessive snow deposit brought on dropsical set out on their dreary journey. Their strength again failed them. Obliged to eat snow, their mouths swelled, and were unable to articulate. An involuntary sleep again overtook them; they fell half sleeping on the snow. Dr. Kane made Riley wake him at the end of every three minutes, and he felt such benefit from the experiment that he timed the men in the same way. Seated on the runners of the sledge they fell asleep instantly, and were forced awake when the three minutes were expired. In- As soon as Dr. Kane was able, he maturvigorated by brandy, served out in table-ed an expedition across Smith's Straits to the spoonfulls, and dragging the wounded men north and east of the Cape Sabine of Capinstinctively behind them, they reached the tain Inglefield. Dr. Hayes and Williain

swellings. Snow-blindness attacked three of the party, and other two were pronounced unfit for service. The bears had lifted the strong blocks which covered their pemmican, and broke into chips the iron casks which contained it, as well as the cask which contained their alcohol. To crown these disasters, Dr. Kane was attacked with a combination of scurvy and typhoid fever, which threatened his life, and compelled him to return.

Godfrey accordingly set off on the 20th | dous mass. Icebergs, and berg ice and humMay, with a good sledge, and the dogs in mocks, prevented their approach to it, and excellent condition, to fix the position of the they could only examine it from an island Cape, and connect it with the newly-discov- which was about 250 feet high,—as high as the ered coast line to the north and east. After perpendicular face of the glacier. From this encountering the usual hardships, they cross-point of view a sheet of ice, about twenty or ed the Sound, but had great difficulty in thirty feet thick, seems to have covered the reaching the land. Dr. Hayes was attacked land in a succession of ridges and knolls. with snow-blindness on the 22d. Seven Above its vertical face it is split into parallel days' provisions out of ten were exhausted. cracks and corresponding indentations, formThe harness lines of the dogs were contin- ing a series of steps sometimes horizontal, ually breaking, and to replace them they but generally following the inclinations of the had to resort to strips cut from the waist- ground, and extending back to where the bands and legs of their seal-skin pantaloons; glacier becomes almost level, having only and in addition to these calamities, Godfrey an ascent of a few feet in the mile, until it atwas seized with cramp. They surmounted, tains an apparent altitude of 600 or 700 however, these difficulties, and added about feet. The descending motion of the general two hundred miles of new coast line to the mass is indicated by deep muttered sounds, chart north of Cape Sabine. They returned and crashes resembling distant cannon or on the 1st of June, after twelve days' absence, the dogs having travelled no less than 400 miles. When the food for the dogs was exhausted, Dr. Hayes cut a pair of old Esquimaux boots into strips, and mixing them with a little of the lard for his lamp, obtained for them a hearty meal.

sharp thunder. In descending, it pushes forward long flakes, till their weight overcomes the tenacity of the ice, and precipitates them to its base, from which they are forced forwards by succeeding masses, till reaching a depth of water sufficient to float them, they are carried off by currents into the sea. Having executed their commission, our travellers returned on the 18th June, and reached the brig on the 26th, M'Gary being entirely blind from the snow.

Dr. Kane now proceeded to organize his main expedition," his last throw," about the success of which he was intensely anxious. Morton, with M'Gary and Bonsall, who were to conduct it, set out on the 4th Morton, who had, according to his inof June, and they were joined on the 16th structions, husbanded his strength while by Hans, with the dog-sledge. Messrs. with M'Gary and Bonsall, left them on the M'Gary and Bonsall were to explore the 18th, and, along with Hans in the dog-sledge, eastern coast of Smith's Sound, and the travelled in a line parallel with the glacier, great glacier which terminates it; and Mor- and at a distance from it of five or six miles. ton was to examine the coast to the north On the 21st they found themselves travelof it, when joined by Hans. Upon arriving ling on weak and rotten ice, and in the at the final cache, where provisions had been neighbourhood of open water, and on the deposited, and on which Dr. Kane had relied same day they reached Cape Andrew Jackso much, M'Gary and Bonsall found that son, and saw at the same time Cape Barrow the bears had appropriated them all, devour-on the opposite shore of the Sound. Being the flag even to the staff, and tying up yond the Cape a low country opened to into hard knots the India-rubber cloth which them, and enabled them to travel at the they were unable to masticate. They found the bear tracks numerous and recent; and one night when asleep in their tent, they were suddenly surprised by a visit from a bear. M'Gary, awakened by the scratching of snow near his head, aroused his friends; but there was not a gun within reach. Walking leisurely round the tent, the bear at last thrust his head inside, and though assailed with burning matches, he refused to withdraw. M'Gary rushed out through a hole which he cut in the tent, struck him on the nose with a boat-hook, and got hold of a rifle with which he was shot. With blistered faces, and half blind with the snow, the party reached the great glacier on the 16th of June; but though provided with apparatus, they found it impossible to scale this stupen

rate of six miles an hour. The ice was here entirely broken up; the channel was navigable for vessels of any size, and everywhere they found flocks of geese, eider duck, and dovekies. During their journey of fifty miles on the 22d, the opposite or western shore ran apparently in a straight line, interrupted only by two bays. The channel seemed to be about thirty-five miles wide, the coast high and the mountains, in the form of a sugar-loaf, extending far back into the interior, and set together in ranges like piles of stacked cannon-balls.

After a sharp battle with a bear, who fought nobly, but in vain, with her cub_in her arms, and finding the runner of an Esquimaux sledge, skillfully worked in whalebone, they tried to reach a cape which they

had seen the day before, having on the north | them. His officers approved of the scheme, side of it a bay, and an island opposite to it. and on the 13th, along with five picked men, This, however, he found to be impossible. he set off in his boat, "The Forlorn Hope." Perpendicular cliffs, 2000 feet high, rising In this hazardous adventure they encounterfrom the sea, prevented him from advanced a storm of unusual severity, and were ing a single step; and he contented himself repeatedly raised out of the water by nips with ascending a knob 500 feet high, from from the accumulating ice. At Hakluyt which he saw an open sea, as far as he could Island they were obliged to rest and renew discern. He could not imagine what be- their stock of provisions, and again spreadcame of the ice. He observed only narrow ing their canvas, they were arrested by the stripes, with open spaces of water between pack at the south point of Northumberland them, from ten to fifteen miles wide, and he Island. They still persevered, however, concluded that the ice must either dissolve, but when they were within ten miles of or go to an open space in the north. The Cape Parry, they encountered a solid mass bay which he saw on the 23d, was called by of ice, stretching to the farthest horizon, Dr. Kane Lafayette's Bay. To the opposite and seeing no chance of accomplishing his island, which turned out to be two, he gave object, Dr. Kane reluctantly gave orders the names of Franklin and Crozier; and to the for their return to the brig. cape which terminated his view, he gave the Upon reaching the brig on the 6th of name of Cape Constitution, situated in lati- August, and rejoining their shipmates, the tude 81° 22'. From the summit of the repeated examination of the state of the ice rocky knob he traced the opposite coast for became an interesting occupation. Hopes about fifty miles, and he remarked in the of liberating the ship and escaping southfarthest distance a peak, truncated at its top, ward were daily cherished and daily disaplike the cliffs of Magdalena Bay. It was pointed. Dr. Kane announced to his combare at its summit, but striated vertically, rades his own resolution to remain another with protruding ridges. Its height was esti- winter; but he at the same time offered to mated at between 2500 and 3000 feet. To give permission to those who desired it to this peak-the most distant northern land leave the vessel and hazard a journey to the yet seen upon the globe-he gave the name south. Eight of the seventeen survivors of Parry, as "the great pioneer of Arctic resolved to remain, and the other eight, travel." The range of mountains with with Petersen and Godfrey at their head, which this peak was connected, was considered by Mr. Morton to be much higher than any on the Greenland side of the bay. Dr. Kane has called them the Victoria and Albert Mountains, and to the country around them, he has given the name of Grinnell Land.

supplied with one half of their stores and means of travelling, left the ship on the 28th of August. One of them, George Riley, returned in a few days, but the rest were not heard of for many weary months.

The preparations for a second winter now occupied Dr. Kane's attention. He resolved Thus terminated the northern search of the to imitate the Esquimaux in the form of second Grinnell expedition. Mr. Morton re- their habitations, and in the peculiarities of turned on the 25th June, and reached the brig their diet. A single apartment was "bulkon the 5th of July. He found Dr. Kane deep-headed off amidships," as a dormitory and ly occupied with schemes of relief. The time sitting-room for the entire party, and surwas already past when travelling on the ice rounded with an envelope of moss cut from was considered practicable, and the party the frozen cliffs. The deck was covered with had neither fuel nor provisions for another a similar casing, and a small moss-lined Arctic winter. The dishonour of abandon- tunnelled passage with curtains (the tossut ing his vessel, and the difficulty of carrying of the Esquimaux) was constructed as an along with him his sick and newly amputated men to Upernavik or Beechy Island, their only seats of refuge, induced him to remain at his post. He resolved, however, to examine the ice-field himself, and after a sixty miles' During Dr. Kane's attempted visit to journey for this purpose, he was convinced Beechy Island, his shipmates had frequent of the impossibility of escaping in open intercourse with the Esquimaux, whose boats at this season of the year. In this nearest winter settlement was about sevenemergency he resolved to attempt a journey to Beechy Island, where he might find Sir Edward Belcher, or reach the stores of the "North Star" at Wolstenholme Islands, or meet some passing vessel that might relieve

entrance from below. They burned lamps for heat, dressed in fox-skin clothing, and obtained their scanty supplies of food by means of regular hunting parties.

ty-five miles by dog journey from the brig, but he himself had never seen them, till at the time of Petersen's departure, three of them appeared as if to examine their condition and resources. Though rather over

and the women spontaneously dried and chafed their cold and exhausted guests.

bearing, Dr. Kane treated them kindly, but ters and sufferings which these occupations they repaid his liberality by stealing not entailed. An event, however, of a higher inonly the copper lamp, boiler, and cooking terest occurred on the 7th of December; the basin which had been lent to them to cook news of five Esquimaux sledges, with teams their meal, but also one of his best dogs; of six dogs each, summoned Dr. Kane to the and it was afterwards found that they had deck. They were the bearers of Petersen appropriated the buffalo robes and India- and Bonsall, two of the eight that had quitrubber cloth which had been left at the ice- ted the brig on the 28th of August. They foot. Morton and Riley were despatched had left the other five 200 miles off, without to Anatook in search of the thieves. They provisions, dispirited, and divided in their found the buffalo robes already tailored into counsels. Supplies were immediately deskapetahs on the backs of the women, and patched to them by the Esquimaux escort, upon searching the huts at Etah, they re- and little Myouk was left as a hostage to covered the cooking utensils, and many ar- ensure the delivery of the packages. On ticles of greater or less value which had not the 12th December the cry of " Esquibeen missed. The women were instantly maux again," roused Dr. Kane at three in stripped and tied, and after being laden with the morning. Upon reaching the deck, he the stolen goods, and as much walrus beef saw a group of human figures in the hooded from their own stores as would pay for jumpers of the natives; one of them grasped their board, they were marched thirty miles his hand; it was Dr. Hayes with the rest to the brig. Within twenty-four hours from of his party. They had travelled 350 miles, the time they left the brig with their plun- and their last seventy miles from the bay der, they were prisoners in its hold, with a near Etah, was through hummocks at the white man as their jailer. Myouk was des- appalling temperature of -50°. For more patched to their headman, Metek, with a than two months they had subsisted on message calling upon him to negotiate the frozen seal and walrus meat. The Esqui ransom of the prisoners, who remained five maux had driven them at flying speed. long days sighing, and crying, and eating Every hut welcomed them as they halted, voraciously. Metek at last appeared with another chief Ootuniah, and bringing a sledge-load of knives, tin-cups, &c., pieces In performing this act of humanity the of wood and scraps of iron which their peo- Esquimaux had another object in view. ple had succeeded in purloining. A treaty Some of the foot-worn absentees, while restof peace was proposed and agreed to. The ing at Kalutunah's tent, had appropriated Esquimaux pledged themselves to steal no certain fox-skins, boots, and sledges, which more, to bring fresh meat, to sell or lend their condition seemed to require. The dogs, and to assist in hunting. The white Esquimaux complained of the theft, and men promised to visit the Esquimaux nei- Dr. Kane, after a careful enquiry into the ther with death nor sorcery, to welcome them case, decided in their favour. He gave to on shipboard, and to give them needles, each five needles, a file, and a stick of wood, pins, knives, awls, sewing thread, pieces of and knives and other extras to Kalutunah wood, and fat, in exchange for walrus and and Shanghu, and after regaling them with fresh meat. This treaty was never broken. a hearty supper, he returned the stolen A common interest united the parties: they goods, and tried to make them believe that visited each other, hunted together, and his people did not steal, but only took the on many occasions were mutual benefactors. The departure of the white men was even mourned, and Dr. Kane tells us that he was satisfied of this when he heard from his brother John, who came to Etah with the Rescue Expedition, of his meeting with Myouk, Metek, and Ootuniah, and of the af After an alarming fire on the 23d Decemfectionate confidence with which the maimed ber, which had nearly destroyed the brig and sick invited his professional aid as the and everything it contained, and after a representative of the elder " Docto Kayen." Christmas as merry as pork and beans The principal occupations of our travel- could make it, Dr. Kane and Petersen set lers during the winter were those which out next day on an expedition to the Esqui. were necessary to supply them with food, maux, to obtain food for themselves and the and the four last chapters of Dr. Kane's dogs, which had been dying in great numfirst volume are occupied principally with bers. The severe cold, after three days' notices of the Esquimaux, accounts of bear exposure, baffled them in this attempt, and and walrus hunts, and of the various disas we have mentioned it only to record a re

articles to save their lives! In imitation of this Arctic morality the natives, on their departure, carried off a few knives and forks, which they deemed as essential to their happiness as the fox-dresses were to the white men.

from it that high protection which they daily sought. On Sunday, the 18th March, it is recorded in Dr. Kane's journal that he has on board "a couple of men (William Godfrey and John Blake) whose former history he would like to know-bad fellows both of them, but daring, energetic, and strong." He had reason to think that they contemplated a desertion and escape to the an act doubtless of trivial

markable optical phenomenon which they outside casing of their ship. Dr. Kane and observed. Being desirous of obtaining a Bonsall were now the only able men to perlight when it was intensely dark, Dr. Kane form the various duties of doctor, nurse, directed Petersen to strike fire with a pocket cook, scullion, and woodcutter. pistol. Some delay taking place, Dr. Kane In this emergency an event occurred of groped for the pistol himself, and in doing so serious a nature that if in one of its rethis touched Petersen's hand. "At that in-sults it threatened evil to the expedition, in stant the pistol became distinctly visible! another it might have justly withdrawn A pale bluish light, slightly tremulous, but not broken, covered the metallic parts of it, the barrel, lock, and trigger. The stock, too, was clearly discernible, as if by the reflected light, and to the amazement of both of us then, the thumb and two fingers with which Petersen was holding it, the creases, wrinkles, and circuit of the nails clearly defined upon the skin. The phosphorescence was not unlike the ineffectual fire of the Esquimaux glow-worm. As I took the pistol, my hand delinquency, when we consider that these became illuminated also, and so did the two men and six others were formerly powder-rubbed paper, when I raised it allowed to withdraw with half the stores of against the muzzle. Our fur clothing and the expedition, and that Dr. Kane took the state of the atmosphere may refer this credit for receiving them back again, though phenomenon plausibly to our electrical con- an encumbrance to his party. Dr. Kane, dition." however, viewed the act through the eyes of his imagination. He conjectured that the intention of the deserters was "to rob Hans

ward." The men were watched, handcuffed, and after protestations of better behaviour, they returned to their duties. An hour afterwards Godfrey escaped, and Blake remained true to his post.

The winter of 1855 had now arrived in all its darkness and severity. Expeditions were sent out in different directions to pro- of his sledge and dogs, and proceed southcure food, but they were generally unsuccessful. Two rabbits, which yielded them a pint of raw blood, was all that they could obtain even in the first week of February. They had only one bottle of brandy left, and their store of pitch pine was so nearly Hans had now been many weeks absent, exhausted, that they were obliged to use for and Dr. Kane, anxious for his return, set fuel their tar-laid hemp hawsers. Disease, out in search of him. Hans is found. Godthe offspring of cold, fatigue, and unwhole- frey had urged him to drive off with him to some food, added itself to their misfortunes, the south, "and so to leave the expedition and towards the close of February "the sledgeless;" but upon Hans's refusal, Godsickness of a single additional man would frey consented to take a sledge-load of fresh have left them without fire." The return- meat to the brig! On the morning of the ing sun, however, to them almost an object 2d April, Bonsall "reported a man about a of worship, brought with it both food and mile from the brig, apparently lurking at resignation. A noble reindeer was the unex- the ice-foot." Dr. Kane and Bonsall went pected guest, but it furnished them only forward, and discovered their dog-sledge with one meal, having on the second day be- with a cargo of walrus meat, which was come uneatable from putrefaction. In the brought by Godfrey, and was "such a godsecond week of March Hans returned from send" that Dr. Kane declares 66 one may the Esquimaux at Etah, with supplies of forgive the man in consideration of the fresh walrus, but although it promised a good which he had done them all." Godfew meals to the sick, it was but a tempo- frey advanced to meet Dr. Kane, and told rary relief, which left them cheerless and despairing. They had consumed their last Manilla hawsers, and had begun to burn the

him that he had resolved to spend the rest of his life with the Esquimaux, and that neither persuasion nor force would prevent him. After forcing him back to the gang. way of the brig, by presenting a pistol, and leaving him under Bonsall's charge, Dr. Kane went on board for irons, but he had hardly reached the deck when Godfrey turned to run." Bonsall discharged his pistol at him, which "failed at the cap." Dr. Kane "jumped at once to the gun