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their superfluity of ornaments instead riment of all honest men going upon of being entirely banished, seem only business along the street.” fallen from their heads upon their lower The petticoat of wide dimensions is parts. What they have lost in height, also much censured : “ Many are the they make it up in breadth, and con- inconveniences that accrue to her matrary to all rules of architecture, widen jesty's loving subjects from the same the foundations at the same time that petticoats, as hurting men's shins, they shorten the superstructure." sweeping down the wares of industri

A little further on we read : “But ous females in the streets. as we do not yet hear of any particular “ The ladies among us have a supeuse in this petticoat, or that it contains rior genius to the men ; which have, for anything more than what was supposed some years past, shot out in several to be in those of scantier make, we are exorbitant inventions, for the greater wonderfully at a loss about it. consumption of our manufacture. While

Among these various conjec- the men have contented themselves with tures, there are many of superstitious the retrenchment of the hat, or the tempers, who look upon the hoop peti- various scallop of the pocket, the ladies coat as a kind of prodigy. Some will have sunk the head-dress, inclosed have it, that it portends the downfall themselves in the circumference of the of the French king, and observe that hoop petticoat; furbelows and flounces the farthingale appeared in England a have been disposed at will, the stays have little before the ruin of the Spanish been lowered bebind; not to mention the monarchy."

various rolling of the sleeve, and those In another letter to the “ Spectator,” other nice circumstances of dress, upon we have the following: “I and several which every lady employs her fancy at of your other female readers have con- pleasure." formed ourselves to your rules, even to Again it is observed: “I sometimes our very dress. There is not one of us entertained myself by observing what but has reduced our outward petticoat a large quantity of ground was hid unto its ancient sizable circumference, der spreading petticoats; and what litthough, indeed, we retain still the quilt- tle patches of earth were covered by ed one underneath, which makes us not creatures with wigs and hats, in comaltogether unconformable to the fashion.” parison to those places that were distin

Another writer gives an amusing ac- guished by flounces, fringes, and furbecount of the shape and varieties of lows." hoops: “The hoop,” he observes, “ has In a petition to the author of the been known to expand and contract it- Tattler,” is an amusing satire of these self from the size of a butter churn to spreading petticoats, which seem to the circumference of three hogsheads; have engrossed the attention of most of at one time, it was sloped from the the writers of the seventeenth and eightwaist in a pyramidal form ; at another, eenth centuries : “Upon the late init was bent upwards like an inverted vention of Mrs. Catharine Crossstitch, bow, by which the two angles, when mantua-maker, the petticoats of ladies squeezed upon both sides, came in con- were too wide for entering, into any tact with the ears. At present, it is coach or chair, which was in use benearly of an oval form, and scarce fore the said invention. That, for measures from end to end above twice the service of the said ladies, your pethe length of the wearer. The hoop titioner has built a round chair in the has, indeed, lost much of its credit in form of a lantern, six yards and a half the female world, and has suffered much in circumference, with a stool in the from the innovation of short sacks and centre of it, the said vehicle being so negliges."

contrived as to receive the passenger The same writer proposes that there by opening in two in the middle, and should be a female parliament to regu- closing mathematically when she is late matters relating to dress and cere- seated. That your petitioner has also mony; and, after speculating upon the invented a coach, for the reception of improvements that would be made by une lady only, who is to be let in at the such judicious lawgivers, he says: top. That the said coach has been “ And they would, at least, not suffer tried by a lady's woman in one of these enormous hoops to spread themselves full petticoats, who was let down from across the whole pavement, to the det- a balcony, and drawn up again by pul

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tral party

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women

leys, to the great satisfaction of her lady and that their patches were placed in and all who beheld her."

those different situations as party-sigPatching was never more prevalent nals to distinguish friends from foes. than during the reign of Queen Anne, In the middle boxes, between these two and severely are those "black spots” opposite bodies were several ladies who censured by writers of the time, both patched indifferently on both sides of French and English. A French author their faces, and seem to sit there with says: L'usage des mouches n'est pas no other intention but to see the opera. inconnu aux dames Françoises, mais il Upon inquiry, I found the body of faut être jeune et jolie. En Angleterre, Amazons, on my right hand, were jeunes, vieilles, belles, laides, tout est Whigs, and those on my left, Tories : emmouché jusqu'à la décrépitude ; j'ai and that those who had placed themplusieurs fois compté quinze mouches

selves in the middle boxes, were a neuet davantage, sur la noire et ridée face

Nay, I am informed d'une vieille de soixante et dix ans. that some of them adhere so steadfastly Les Anglaises raffinent ainsi sur nos to their party, and are so far from samodes."

crificing their zeal for the public to their We have other laughable accounts passion for any particular person, that, of these patches :

6. The

in a late draught of marriage articles, look like angels, and would be more a lady has stipulated with her husbeautiful than the sun, were it not for band, that whatever his opinions are, little black spots that are apt to break she shall be at liberty to patch on which out in their faces, and sometimes rise side she pleases." in very odd figures. I have observed The absurdity is also thus attacked : that those little blemishes wear off very "Madam, let me beg of you, to take soon, but when they disappear in one off the patches at the lower end of your part of the face, they are very apt to left cheek, and I will allow two more break out in another, insomuch, that I under

your
left

eye, which will contribhave seen a spot upon the forehead in ute more to the symmetry of your face; the afternoon, that was upon the chin except you would please to remove the in the morning.

ten black atoms on your ladyship's chin, " About the middle of last winter, I and wear one large patch instead of went to see an opera at the Haymarket them. If so, you may properly enough Theatre, where I could not but take no- retain the three patches above mentice of two parties of very pretty wo

tioned." men, that had placed themselves in the Washes for the complexion, rouge, opposite side-boxes, and seemed drawn and alabaster powder, were much used at up in a kind of battle array, one this time, and continued fashionable for against the other.

After a short sur- many years, but patches are said to vey of them, I found they were patched have been finally banished towards the differently, the faces on one hand, be- latter end of Anne's reign, chiefly ing spotted on the right side of the through the censures of Addison, who forehead, and those upon the other, on waged continual war against them, and the left. I quickly perceived that they from whom many of the extracts given cast hostile glances, one upon another; above have been derived.

THOUGHT.
WH

THAT is the warrior's sword compared with thee?

A brittle reed against a giant's might!
What are the tyrant's countless hosts? as light
As chaff before the tempest! Though he be
Shut in with guards, and by the bended knee
Be worshiped, like a god, thou still canst smite,
E’en then, with viewless'arm, and from that height
Hurl him into the dust! for thou art free,
Boundless, omnipresent, like God, who gave
Thee for his crowning gift to man: and when
Thou work’st with thy best weapon, truth's calm pen,
To punish and reform, exalt and save,
Thou canst combine in one the minds of men,
Which strength like that of God, united have!

EDITORIAL NOTES.

AMERICAN

LITERATURE AND

REPRINTS.

or

-IRVING has finished the fourth volume truthful mirror of his heart and mind, and a of his. Life of Washington, and having

more thorough exponent of his conduct, than

he has left in his copious correspondence. brought his hero safely through the war, he There his character is to be found in all its leaves him at the threshold of the Presi- majestic simplicity, its massive grandeur and dency, and there the biographer pauses,

quiet colossal strength. He was no hero of

romance; there was nothing of romantic alluding with modesty and feeling to him- heroism in his nature. As a warrior he was self. The whole work, as far as completed, incapable of fear, but made no merit of defyand however much further it may be car

ing danger. He fought for a cause, but not

for personal renown. Gladly, when he had ried, will be the popular and universally won the cause, he hung up his sword never read Life of Washington. The story of his

again to take it down. Glory, that blatant

word, which haunts some military minds like career is told with a simplicity which is

the bray of the trumpet, formed no part of the ripe maturity of a lovely style, and his aspirations. To act justly was his inwith a sustained interest which will draw

stinct, to promote the public weal his con

stant effort, to deserve the affections of every reader, of every age, from chapter good men' his ambition. With such qualifito chapter. Like the author's,“ Colum- cations for the pure exercise of sound judg. bus” and “ Mahomet," the “Washington”

ment and comprehensive wisdom, he ascend

ed the Presidential chair. is invested with all the picturesqueness “There for the present we leave him. So of which the subject seems capable. And far our work is complete, comprehending the yet with great differences; the countries

whole military life of Washington, and his

agency in public affairs, up to the formation and the times of his other heroes are, in of our Constitution. How well we have exethemselves, romantic to the imagination. cuted it we leave to the public to determine; But by no possibility can that tender hue, hoping to find it, as heretofore, far more easily

satisfied at the result of our labors than we which is the complexion of distance and are ourselves. Should the measure of health strangeness, be imparted to recent and good spirits, with which a kind Provi

dence has blessed us beyond the usual term very modern events. But no other author

of literary labor, be still continued, we may could have done so much for this pictur- go on, and in another volume give the Presi. esqueness, by the mere charm of treat- dential career and closing life of Washington,

In the mean time, having found a restingment, as Irving. He is beyond criti

place in our task, we stay our hands, lay by cism, in a certain sense. His hold is our pen, and seek that relaxation and repose so sure upon the public heart, that criti

which gathering years require." cism cannot dispute his possession, it can only discriminate and compare his liter

-- Whoever wishes to read one of the ary qualities. It is enough to say of niost passionate and pathetic novels in his Life of Washington, that it is entirely English literature will take with him, the book which Washington Irving must

during the summer vacation, The Collewrite upon such a theme, and that, while gians, by Gerald Griffin. He was a young other historians might have philosophized Irishman, who died several years since, more upon Washington's cbaracter and after writing a series of works—novels due place in history, none could have told,

and poetry, which gave him little rewith more sympathy, skill, and interest, putation during his life, but since his the story of his life. We cannot forbear

death have given him fame as, in our quoting the last words of the book, both

judgment, the best Irish novelist. The for what the author says of his hero and

picture of Irish character and manners a of himself :

half century since, in The Collegians, is

masterly, and the power with which the “In regard to the character and conduct of fond, impetuous, passionate, thoroughly Washington, we have endeavored to place his deeds in the clearest light, and left them to

Celtic nature of Hardress Cregan is drawn, speak for themselves, generally avoiding com

evinces rare genius. Griffin died young, a ment or eulogium. We have quoted his own disappointed man. But this one story, if words and writings largely, to explain his feelings and motives, and give the true key to

nothing else of his, will surely live among his policy; for never did man leave a more the very best novels of the time. It is full

of incident, and an absorbing interest However, it is de rigueur to admire whatallures the reader to the end, and leaves ever the fair Yonge chooses to send us, and him with a melted heart and moistened there will be no lack of sea-side and valley eye. Love, pride, and prejudice are the admirers of this last “ effort of the distinthemes. An Ophelia-like heroine is tossed guished authoress.” upon the bitter waves of a sea of passion -Mr. Edward Stephens issues The Heiress she cannot control, and the end is more of Greenhurst, by Mrs. Ann S. Stephens, piteous than Ophelia’s. There have been author of Fashion and Famine. The other at least two editions of the work published works of this lady belong properly to the in this country at different times. The melo-dramatic and sensation schools. From last one, before the present, was a very a rapid glance at this one, we should suppoor, cheap, Philadelphia edition, which

pose it to be of the purely romantic school, could have done little for the reputation and not less attractive and interesting of The Collegians. But a new edition of than any of its predecessors. the Complete Works of Gerald Griffin, to be --Gerald Massey is introduced in blue concluded in about thirty weekly numbers, and gold by Ticknor & Fields. When he is now issuing by D. and J. Sadlier & Co., appeared in plain muslin, in his earlier New York, and is more than a third part days, we expressed our opinion of him at published. It is a very convenient and at- some length. He is evidently a man of tractive edition. It will contain all his warm feeling and a sensuous fancy, but novels, dramas, and lyrics. The latter we do not find great poetry in his handhave a thoroughly Irish flavor, and will, some volume. It is still, to us, a mixture we sincerely hope, be the means of making of Tennyson and Ebenezer Elliott; althe talented young Irishman widely known, though so eminent a man as Landor alludes and, consequently, admired in this country. to Homer and Shakespeare, in speaking of

-As the dog days approach, the novels Massey. The feeling is, beyond a question, multiply. Derby & Jackson continue their strong and real; but the expression of it is, convenient family edition of Marryatt, and equally beyond doubt, determined by that the standard old English novelists. The of other men. Unpleasantly often there tastes of different times will differ, but is an affectation of intensity, which, with Fielding and Smollett must still hold their so much genuine ardor, is entirely unplaces as delineators of the English man- necessary. ners of their epoch. They are invalu- - In the same series, Mrs. Jameson's able companions to their contemporary his- Diary of an Ennuyée tastes of Italy, as tory. In fact, no man has properly read dried rose-leaves of roses. The feminine history, who has not studied in their own grace of this writer is nowhere more agreeworks, and in descriptions of their man- ably displayed than in this little volume; hers and babits, the people whose govern- and her womanly sense and feeling noment, and wars, and politics only, the pom- where more eloquently expressed than in pous muse of history condescends to heed. ber Sisters of Charity, a new work just Tom Jones is as essential a foot-note to the issued by the same house. She says that English life of the reign of George Second she believes that there exists at the core of as the letters of Horace Walpole. Marry- our social condition a great mistake to be att will always have a large and loving corrected, and a great want to be supplied ; audience, so long as men and boys have that men and women must learn to underthe love of adventure in their hearts. stand each other, and work together for the There are few nautical novels better than common good, before any amount of perPeter Simple, few more captivating to the manent moral and religious progress can genuine novel reader than Jacob Faithful. be effected; and that, in the most compre

- The Appletons give us Miss Yonge's hensive sense of the word, we need Sisters last, Dynevor Terrace. It has the same care- of Charity everywhere. ful details of what seem to us quite un- Mrs. Jameson treats the subject with interesting events and people, that make the instinctive delicacy of a lady, but of up her other stories, excepting perhaps The one who understands that woman is the Heir of Redclyffe. Merely to copy pature, root of lady, as the vine is of the grapeis not necessarily to make a fine work of blossom. Let every summer-lounger take, art, whether in painting or literature. with the women's novels of the season,

no

more

this woman's view of woman's sphere and makes men famous for doing. There is duty, and remember that Mrs. Browning,

delightful story-book than Mrs. Jameson, and Mrs. Norton are three “Southey's Life of Nelson ;' a simple, graEnglish women, whose position in literature phic, coherent chronicle of the great adand general respect claim for their views miral's career. Dr. Elder is well known of the “woman question,” an attention as an eloquent and original orator, and his which is rarely gravely given to it by the contributions to our literature, although general public. And when, to their appeals, sometimes eccentric beyond quaintness, is added the splendor of Miss Nightingale's have displayed an undoubted vigor, and actions, the most determined reviler of fertility of resources. There is no reason Female Conventions may, with perfect pro- why he should not make the biography of priety, retire to his closet and ask him- the brave young Kane one of the enself: " Is darning my stockings the whole duringly valuable works upon the libraryduty of woman ?"

shelf-a book to stand side by side with -- The Family-Circle Glee-Book, compiled the hero's own fascinating Journals-side by Elias Howe (Mason Brothers). Whoever by side with Parry's, and Back's, and makes a family sing is a social benefactor; Franklin's, and all the stories of Arctic but whoever makes them sing good songs

adventurers. is himself worthy of a lobgesang, a song of - Tom Brown's School-Life (Ticknor & praise, which we desire with proper fire, at Fields) is a novel of scbool-life at Rugby, once to sing, and homage bring, and make in England, in the days of the good and our bow to Mr. Howe, and hope that famous Dr. Arnold. It is exceedingly inMessrs. Mason Brothers will soon give us teresting and valuable to us Americans, as others of Mr. Howe's compilations. The showing us the very interior of a life of present is an attractive collection of good which we know nothing. It is a curious old choice favorites, which are never, by companion-piece to Dickens'" Do-the-boys any chance, beard in the Academy or in Hall," and Thackeray’s “ Dr. Birch and his Mrs. Potiphar's drawing-room; but which Young Friends at Rodwell Regis." The are now sung, and have been, and will be, book is written in an easy, idiomatic, and sung in a hundred happy homes, and are manly style, and is of a character to full, all of them, of associations sweet as interest particularly the American reader; their own music and tender as their own showing him how young Englishmen come sentiment. We hope it may be the in- often to live easy and manly lives as well fluence of such publications to tempt out as write in the same way. the voices that are silent now, because - The Rev. John Bayley, of the Virginia they cannot warble the serenade of the annual conference, has published a work Trovatore or the barcarole of Lucrezia. concerning Marriage as it is, and as it should Modest voices, remember that there are be (M. W. Dodd). The question discussed Marios, and Giuglinis, and Brignolis to is one in wbich the race is supposed to be sing the Italian operas in great theatres, profoundly interested, and ought to wish and to thousands of people; do you sing to be instructed. Perhaps the task of the songs you can, to the tens, to the fives, instruction may be difficult. But let the perhaps only to the one, who will listen in reader hear Mr. Bayley speak for himself the sacred seclusion of home with the concerning money in matrimony. “It is heart as well as with flounces and kid true when the match is in other respects a gloves.

suitable one, wealth is not to be despised ; -The Life of Dr. Kane is in preparation but when the question is between wealth on by Dr. William Elder, of Philadelphia the one hand, and a suitable husband or a (Childs & Peterson). These pages have wife on the other, it should never be forali ly recorded our estimate of the value gotten that riches will never purchase of tha: id the account of it cannot intellect or virtue; but that these noble fail to be ,' the most permanent interest. qualities may procure riches, and will No books are more entertaining than the never fail to secure all that is needful for lives of famous travelers and explorers, happiness.” The book is thus seen to be and all men of action, men who went consolatory reading for mothers who will where most of us go only in wishing and be compelled to return from their summer in imagination, and who did what poetry campaigns with daughters unmarried.

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