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deep in “ hazel shade,” but no hun- all that is changed now; for we are ter's horn or chieftain's whistle shrill the Sahib Log--the ruling people, the can people the lone hill-side with masters of the hour, masters of the five hundred warriors keen. No destinies of India and of Sind. Eren more the hardy Cateran drives the the erewhile Belooch chief who Sassenach’s fat cattle before him, fought against Sir Charles Napier on on scanty paths to his inaccessible the fields of Meeanee and Hydrabad, retreat; he only drives down nowt humbly makes to us his salaam. to Falkirk Tryst, from“ ta ponny On the other hand, again, when we land o' ta whiskey still.” “ Donald have approached the Hala, or passed of the Smithy, the Son of the Ham- through them into the country bemer,” puts large stones at the Inver- yond, it is very necessary to wrap ness Games, instead of filling “the ourselves in the cloak of prudence Banks of Lochawe with mourning No white faces meet our eye, but only and clamour.”- Only an Edinburgh swarthy Belooches, brown Brahuis
, professor roams disconsolate among and travelling Affgbans. No forethe hills of Braemar, crying,
head will touched at our approach;
and to our respectful Salaam Aleik** Woes me, woe! what dole and sorrow, oom, there will sometimes not even From this lovely land I borrow !"
be vouchsafed a scowling Aleikoom While an unfeeling public asks, Salaam. Instead of cantonments “Why borrow?" and advises him and bungalows, we find the mud to pay back his loan as soon as pos- built and mud-walled town of some sible. But the primitive virtues still Jam or Khan, or other territorial remain among the mountains of chief, the black tents of some wapderCentral Asia, and Kurrachee is suffi- ing Belooch tribe, or the loose ciently close to these bills to allow branches which form the only shelter an opportunity (even to respectable for the encampments of the Lumri persons like 'professors) of making and the Brahui. The journeys are tolerably safe acquaintance with liv- from well to well, or from valley to ing “ lords of the glen.”
valley. We require to travel with On the one side of the Hala (not fire-locks in our hands, or pear us, in indeed at their base, where the Bel- the care of some trusty servant; when ooch still rules, but nearer the banks lying down to sleep, they must be at of the royal Indus), we find the our side. The Affgban and Belooch bungalows of Europeans open to re- are not inclined to regard us with ceive us, active English magistrates either overwhelming admiration or superintending public works, or ad- very tender affection ; and when they ministering justice in their catch- catch us in their own hills, it is just eries, companies European artil. possible they may think us fair game, lery and Sepoy regiments, with young for robbery and warfare are familiar beardless English officers, drilling in to them from childhood. the cool of the morning. Every- However, even without entering into where our white faces command re- the dangerous country, much may be spect from the natives of the country, seen of its inhabitants. The Sindees and our impedimenta are in po themselves are a timid fusionless danger of being taxed or taken by people much given to the use of roving chiefs. Very different is the be- opium and bhang (Cannabi Indica), haviour of the Sindians to us, from but some amusement may be got what it was in 1613 to Sir Robert from them as they appear in the garShirley, a British ambassador to dens of the Fakeers, close to the native Persia who was detained at the town of Kurrachee. These gardens mouth of the Indus, saw Mr. Ward, contain some splendid trees, chiefly one of his companions, shot dead banyan, and during the day afford before his face, and experienced the umbrageous protection to the degreatest difficulty in escaping to Agra, bauched Fakeers, who require rest where he was courteously received by after the exertions of the night. In Jehangir. Even in 1801 the English the evening these faithful few make mission to the Ameers was subjected great efforts, by trumpet and voice, to to many annoyances and insults. But intimate that the time for evening
prayers has arrived, but the intima- and these rupees again for cotton tion also means that their gardens cloth, lead, and gunpowder, strikes are about to be opened to the public. him as rather beneath his dignity, In one or two, portions of the Koran and makes him think uneasily of his may be read; but the most usual fierce forefathers. By way of being amusements are gossip, story-telling, independent, he is savage and surly. bhang and arrack drinking, opium His broad bairy chest, and long and tobacco smoking, beating on the sinewy arms, are those of a dol or kettle-drum, praying, howling, whose boast is, that in close combat singing, and dancing. There the he can strangle his foes, or tear out Eastern mind may be seen to perfec- their windpipes. Even the boldest tion, with its union of romance and of us would shudder at the idea of meanness, of mystery and grossness. being overpowered by that demon, Of course, as the night advances, mat- and of looking up hopelessly for ters do not improve. The holy men mercy into the wild-beast eyes which become more excited, less particular glare ferociously under his shaggy in regard to forbidden things, and brows, and villanously low forehead. howl more. The dol sounds more Even the Pathans, however, are furiously; the dancers (among whom, rather savage men, though they dare by this time, are women) dance until not put their peculiar notions into they fall down from fatigue or intoxi- practice when, as merchants, they cation; and the stories become quite are travelling or sojourning in a frightful when they are not incompre- strange country. During our resihensible.
dence at Kurrachee, some fifteen or In the cold season large numbers twenty of them were sepoys in the of Affghans and Belooches come 8th Regiment of Native Infantry, the down to Kurrachee with horses for rule having been abrogated which, at sale, and encamp on the meidan or one time, forbade their admission inplain, close to the Fairshed. Each to the Anglo-Indian army. The concaffilah, or small caravan, has its sequence was that a number of sinhorses picketed in a circle, within gular outrages perpetrated, which they sleep round a fire, and which for some time quite baffled seldom with any other covering than the police. Sindees and Cutchees a large burnous, or_sheepskin coat. were found lying dead-killed, apThe Affghans, or Pathans, as they parently, by stones thrown with call themselves, are often large fair great force and dexterity. Officers' men, with strong bodies and fleshy bangalows were entered at night, limbs. Some of them have even and robbed while the inmates were light-coloured hair and eyes. They sleeping. The police puggies or are all very bold and independent, trackers (in a desert country like without being insolent; treating Sind, footsteps are easily tracked, Europeans as equals, but taking care and some men specially devote themnot to break any of our regulations. selves to the occupation) could find They are also very conversible, and nothing more suspicious than what have many stories to tell about the appeared to be marks of camels' feet. dangers they escaped on the way The boldness and unprecedented down with their horses, from the Bel. character of the outrages threw spe. ooches, whom they both fear and culation quite at fault. Considerabominate, calling them Adam-khoor, able alarm was excited in houses outor men-eaters, an appellation which, side, or on the outskirts of the camp ; in its literal meaning, is quite unde- and revolvers immediately rose to a served. These last mentioned are evi- premium. A quarrel among themdeptly quite out of their element on selves, which led to the treachery of British territory, and do not show to one, disclosed that these depredations advantage as commercial men. Like were committed, and that very sys Catiline, the Belooch is alieni appe- tematically, by the Affghans of the tens, sui profusus; he likes to take 8th Native Infantry, who managed violently, and he likes to give patron- to steal out at night, in small parties, isingly, but this matter of exchanging from the lines of their regiment, and horses and dogs for Company's rupees, who baffled the puggies by binding up
their own feet in rags, a stone being acknowledge sach things as friends placed under the instep, so as to leave and acquaintances, and holding obno distinct impression of a foot upon stinately by the theory that bis masthe sand. It being thought expedient ter's band was against every man. to capture some of these roftians in When loose, he lay in wait for all the act, a trap was laid for them, the visitors, and cuppingly attacked them desperate resistance they were to offer behind just as they were entering not having been anticipated. The the bungalow; when chained, be captain of police and his lieutenant, barked and howled until he broke both English officers, concealed them- loose, or worried himself into temselves, with a few friends and dative porary suffocation. To the nouker police, in a bungalow which had been log, or domestics, he was an object fixed upon for robbery. Two Pa. of the utmost dread and veneration
. thans entered the garden about two In vain they attempted to propitio'clock in the morning: and a stone, ate his favour by giving him choice skilfully thrown by one of them, killed morsels ; he took the meat, but growlthe dog at once. At first they mis- ed at them all the time to show took the police for their comrades; his incorruptibility. When they but, on discovering their mistake, they entered our sitting-room, he would fought so furiously with stones and steal behind, and playfully, give with their long knives, that it was not their calves a gentle squeeze, just to until they were, literally speaking, remind them what they were about. cut down that they could be secured. Nothing could reconcile him to the Captain M., who at Meeanee bad mehtur, or sweeper, who, under prokilled several Belooches in hand- tection, washed him occasionally ; to-hand conflict, had some of his that unhappy individual applied for teeth knocked down his throat an advance of wages, and finally left by a stone which one of the robbers our service, on the ground of his life hurled.
being in danger. When we dined The horsedealers and merchants from home, that dog's face was cerencamped at the Fairshed perpe- tain to look in at the door, in order trated no such crimes; and though to see if we were safe; but an unconthey must have been sorely tempted querable aversion to society pre to rob each other, they wisely ab- vented him from entering farther
. stained. Perhaps it was difficult for We cannot altogether ascribe to him them to do so; for each party had the character which Byron gare to its watchful guardians, in the shape his dog — “strength without insoof those large, shaggy, dun-coloured, lence, courage without ferocity
, and savage bear-dogs, which are to be all the virtues of man without his found among all the mountains which vices :" but not
the large sweep from Cape Monze up to the hound who lies at our side, looking sources of the Indus, and round to up with intelligent soft brown eyes, Thibet. The appearance of these as if he knew what we are writing animals is usually something between about, can altogether compensate for that of a Newfoundland and a dog of the loss of that rough savage Kootch the St. Bernard breed; but in some that of them a cross with the wolf or the hyena is quite apparent. Une dog, “ Poor dog, in life the firmest friend,
The first to welcome, foremost to defend; which we picked up at Bela in Be. loochistan, was marked exactly like a Who labour'd, fought, breath'd, lived for him hyena ; it had no bark, only a bowl, carried its head like a wild beast, and was very intractable and treacherous. Besides the Asiatics we have allodSeveral experiments with dogs pur- ed to, there is excellent opportunity chased from Affghans were not very in Sind for studying the Brabuis, who encouraging, for they refused to ac abound also in Beloochistan. They commodate themselves to anything are supposed to belong to the abo like civilised life. Only one could we rigines of Asia, to the Vindhya race, attach to our own person, and there which is to be found in the Deccan, be stopped, resolutely refusing to and of which Burton supposes there
Whose honest heart was still his master's own.
are traces even in Arabia. Consider- evil demons circling over the earth; able doubt may easily be thrown on the black wall of the great sand-storm this view; but suffice it here to note, coming up before the wind and hidthat the traveller may meet numbers ing the sun; the red sandstone peaks, of Brahuis without venturing into or where beyond the dangerous defiles of the Hala. The budgerows briog over Arabs
“Faint and sickly winds for ever howl
around;" from Mascat to Kurrachee, and Persians from the Gulf. Artisans from the flaming wilderness of rock, where Kutch and Guzerat are to be found no signs of life refresh the eye; the in considerable numbers ;
sun-blacked Belooch haunching his merchants and contractors from the ill-conditioned but trusty mare in a Punjaub. It is even recorded that a clond of dust, as he half threatens Frenchman once made his appearance with his braggart sword; the pains in the cantonment, but found no one of the scorching ride ; the annoyance who could speak with him except Mr, of the noisy arrangements; the danFrere, the able and accomplished gers of the night encampment;-, commissioner in, or governor of, might not such things be remembered
he province; and in our day a veri- with pleasure long after they had table Tübingen Ph. D. was there, ceased to trouble, while many singuwith whom we might presumptuously lar pictures would remain, from that dispute on questions of philology, of the green mountain-valley, or the bat with whom we could always be- short Brahui goat-herd drawing water come one again over longing recol- from the deep-sunk well, or the comelection of the Eberharilkarls-Univers- ly Belooch woman handing to her lord ität.
the frugal draught his flocks afford, Living at Kurrachee, a sort of to the white domes of musjid and Central Asiatic fever is apt to seize minar, where upon the mind. Every evening we gazed on the line of savage, habita
The palmtree-cinctured city stands !" tionless, precipitous mountains standing so distinct against the clear calm But even the most reckless is apt sky, until the desire to pass beyond to hesitate about starting into a them became a passion which come country from which, he is informed, pelled " the power to roam." Each travellers have very little chance of morning the strong sunlight fell into ever returning. No doubt a caffilah every rugged pass and jagged cleft; of Affghans may promise to protect and even through the wavy heats of bim, but who is to vouch for the the day, between the circling sand- Affghans, and how is he to return storms, there were seen, dimly loom- when he leaves them? No certain ing, those great frontiers of the for- information could be obtained in rebidden land. Singular feelings were gard to the safety, or even possibility, aroused by the thought that it was of travelling in Beloochistan, for possible to set off any day from our though its frontier was within twenty door, and walk or ride on to Tartary, miles' distance, that country was or almost to the Pole, with scarcely eschewed and ignored. The only any interruption from the dwellings satisfactory account of it was to be of men. When the caffilahs began found in the travels of Lieutenant to start on their return journey north- (afterwards Sir Henry) Pottinger, wards or westwards, it seemed easy who in 1809, when the country was to accompany, for a short distance, utterly unknown to Europeans, disthe gaunt camels, which moved slow- guised himself as an Eastern horse ly, and with almost spectral motion, dealer, and, partly in company with across the sands, that gleamed like a Captain Christie, partly alone, penegolden sea under the great sunlight, trated from Sonmeanee on the coast to like a silvery plain under the full Khelat, and from thence passed into moon. Even the indefinite danger Persia by way of Noosky and Bunof the attempt gave it enchantment. poor, travelling for some time in The vast circling pillars, which the only his shirt and drawers, enduring wild Eastern imagination regards as other almost incredible hardships,
" 'Mid far sands
and making many narrow escapes. camel-men and servants, but the At a later period, Sir William former of these were not easily obHarris, the noted African traveller, tained, and the latter, already in failed even in an attempt to reach employ, objected strongly to crossing Hinglaj on the cost of Mekran, and the frontier, after they consulted the had to make a very basty retreat bazaar upon the subject. These on a swift borse. Our interference difficulties were at last got over, but with Khelat was supposed to have the wapt of any one on whom we irritated the Belooches against us, could rely in an emergency, was but while their unavenged success in ill compensated for by the number of massacring our soldiers there might attendants. A small hill-tent, grain reasonably be supposed to have made for a horse, as well as provisions, them presumptuous. One English- &c., required to be carried, and so it man, we were informed, had recently was found necessary to take one contrived to travel a long way on riding and four baggage-camels, these the coast of Mekran, and another bad being attended by three camel-men, passed through the Bolan; but both two of them Sindees, and the other had died in consequence after their a Sind-Belooch. A horse-keeper, a return to Sind, and nothing what- cook, and a personal servant, to ever seemed to be known of the gether with a negro peon, made up state of the rest of the country. a very respectable small caffilah;
These facts, which constituted our but in all probability these attend. whole knowledge on the practicability ants, excepting the negro and horseof the attempt, were not very en- keeper, would have been worse than couraging; but it was our fate to useless in any fighting other than accomplish it, and with ease. “ In- with the tongue, The disastrons shallah!” we said, “We shall try; Somali expedition has shown well probably they will take us for mad, how
little dependence can be placed and receive us with veneration," on Eastern servants when a sudden Perhaps the southern Belooches are attack has to be withstood. The not so fierce as those of the north ; smaller the number, the more likely perhaps, from the contiguity to Brit- are they to stand by their master ish territory, the British traveller is when required, and the more unlikely covered by the broad shield of his to give notions of his wealth which country's reputation; perhaps per- may arouse cupidity. It is always cussion-cap firearms are more for- best to have them as much as posmidable than matchlocks; perhaps sible from different castes, for then these savages are not very savage their mutual dislike and jealousy act after all; or perhaps this contributor as a check on the evil practices in may be destined to an exit pot usual which they may be inclined to indulge. in uncivilised countries ;--some or It was rather difficult to get these all of these causes may have contri- servants started on the journey, for at buted to his safety during a few the last moment the most of them hung weeks' excursion through Las, and back and wished to escape. Also just small portions of Jhalewan and after crossing the border they caused Mekran.
considerable trouble, but once well The notion of travelling with a into Beloochistan, the “ law of party of Affghans was given up, be- thumb" (no other law being recogcause, being ignorant of the Pooshtoo nised there) could be applied to them language, we could not hope to keep in a very decided way. Their terror up pleasant friendly relations, or was not much to be wondered at, for easily detect any treachery which though the border was so close to the they might meditate.
British cantonment, only a week be It was impossible to find any fore we started, & tribe of Belooches companion who could be persuaded carried off four hundred head of that it was his destiny to “ do " cattle belonging to British subjects, Beloochistan; and the more so, be- which cattle were grazing on debatcause no officer could obtain leave able ground, and the bazaar at Kurfor any such outrageous purpose. rachee was full of very exaggerated Of course it was necessary to have accounts of the occurrence. Once